Hello everyone, I just looked at one of speakers today and the cone is detached from the rest of the speaker, so I guess I'm looking to replace them. They were 2 16 kv.2's running on an infinity 610a amp. I would assume they were dual 2 ohm speakers, but can't remember. The box I have is a sealed 1.5cf box. I was looking for something that could handle about 400-500 rms and is dual 2 ohm and can fit in that box. I've looked around and haven't seen much and was wondering if I could get some help here. Thanks.
Replies (4)
Victor on 07/4/2006 14:57:20
you may need to do some minor modifications as that is a 16" sub, its mounting dia is 14", u will have to find subs with that spec....
there are many manufacturers out there who make decent 15-18" subs..
one i personally like in very decent rates are the alpine type R 15"
they come in 4ohms and 2 ohms DVC each sub can handle 750wrms..
u can use a single sub,
if u wanna use 2 then this is a good option...
the JBL GTO series GTO1502D each capable of 300wrms,
or just replace the older 16kv2's with new ones..
Victor...
swez on 07/4/2006 18:34:11
You may be able to repair this sub and continue using it. Where is the separation point here? The cone surround to basket or the cone to spider joint failed?
Does the voice coil still move with power applied?
Here's a blow up of the sub in sections. Where is the problem noted"
http://www.edesignaudio.com/Products/16Kv2Subwoofer/Gallery/16kv2_dimensions.jpg
Swez
audionewb on 07/8/2006 19:37:51
It's at the bottom of the cone. The cone is totally sepratied from the rest of the speaker.
swez on 07/9/2006 08:31:37
If the cone is still attached to the voice coil and only separated from the spider (yellow accordian material) suspension/alignment joint, you can repair it:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/171942/3 (page 3)
1. Determine the location and nature of the sub failure
2. If the cone and coil are still attached, but spider has separated from the cone/coil, it can be repaired
3. Mix up equal parts of a 2 part epoxy (~1cc of each part)
4. Load the mixed epoxy into a 1cc/ml - 5cc/ml syringe (remove the plunger and load from the plunger opening) Only need about 1-2 cc's of epoxy here.
5. Re-install the plunger and get the air pockets out by holding the syringe upright and pushing in the plunger until all air is evacuated
6. Shoot the epoxy mix around the spider/coil/cone joint at fracture point (Go easy on the shots as you won't need much more than a thin ring of epoxy on the joint)
7. Use a hair dryer to speed up the curing process of the epoxy (Heat will make the epoxy flow a bit and you can get a nice, even seal by spinning the sub as you heat the glue)
8. Align the old glue marks by placing the sub on a flat surface, before the epoxy is fully cured
9. Allow the epoxy to air cure for an hour or two. (Place the sub on a flat surface, cone face down) This helps keep the cone, spider and coil in proper aligment until expoxy is cured.
10. Test the sub at 50% power after a 2 hour cure time
If the sub repair worked, you should have a working sub and no scrapping, cone rattles or coil mis-alignments.
Jeff's other sub failed later in the same manner, (later) and he did the same steps to repair that one as well. Both subs worked fine again until he upgraded to the Brahma 10.
Swez COFFEE
Replies (4)
Victor on 07/4/2006 14:57:20
you may need to do some minor modifications as that is a 16" sub, its mounting dia is 14", u will have to find subs with that spec....
there are many manufacturers out there who make decent 15-18" subs..
one i personally like in very decent rates are the alpine type R 15"
they come in 4ohms and 2 ohms DVC each sub can handle 750wrms..
u can use a single sub,
if u wanna use 2 then this is a good option...
the JBL GTO series GTO1502D each capable of 300wrms,
or just replace the older 16kv2's with new ones..
Victor...
swez on 07/4/2006 18:34:11
You may be able to repair this sub and continue using it. Where is the separation point here? The cone surround to basket or the cone to spider joint failed?
Does the voice coil still move with power applied?
Here's a blow up of the sub in sections. Where is the problem noted"
http://www.edesignaudio.com/Products/16Kv2Subwoofer/Gallery/16kv2_dimensions.jpg
Swez
audionewb on 07/8/2006 19:37:51
It's at the bottom of the cone. The cone is totally sepratied from the rest of the speaker.
swez on 07/9/2006 08:31:37
If the cone is still attached to the voice coil and only separated from the spider (yellow accordian material) suspension/alignment joint, you can repair it:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/171942/3 (page 3)
1. Determine the location and nature of the sub failure
2. If the cone and coil are still attached, but spider has separated from the cone/coil, it can be repaired
3. Mix up equal parts of a 2 part epoxy (~1cc of each part)
4. Load the mixed epoxy into a 1cc/ml - 5cc/ml syringe (remove the plunger and load from the plunger opening) Only need about 1-2 cc's of epoxy here.
5. Re-install the plunger and get the air pockets out by holding the syringe upright and pushing in the plunger until all air is evacuated
6. Shoot the epoxy mix around the spider/coil/cone joint at fracture point (Go easy on the shots as you won't need much more than a thin ring of epoxy on the joint)
7. Use a hair dryer to speed up the curing process of the epoxy (Heat will make the epoxy flow a bit and you can get a nice, even seal by spinning the sub as you heat the glue)
8. Align the old glue marks by placing the sub on a flat surface, before the epoxy is fully cured
9. Allow the epoxy to air cure for an hour or two. (Place the sub on a flat surface, cone face down) This helps keep the cone, spider and coil in proper aligment until expoxy is cured.
10. Test the sub at 50% power after a 2 hour cure time
If the sub repair worked, you should have a working sub and no scrapping, cone rattles or coil mis-alignments.
Jeff's other sub failed later in the same manner, (later) and he did the same steps to repair that one as well. Both subs worked fine again until he upgraded to the Brahma 10.
Swez COFFEE
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