My problem is that my headlights are STILL dimming! Even though I've got a 250A H/O ALT, 900CCA BAT, 4 Farad Cap, 0 Guage wire all through, wired into a Boss PD-4000 & 2 Audiobahn Alum 12" 2000W subs. After all this work, I figured my headlights would no longer dim, even when my AC is off! My subs aren't even wired in full parallel yet either. I was wondering if anyone knew what could be causing this.
Mike
Replies (4)
dkh on 06/29/2006 12:09:09
Why do you need 0 gauge wire all throughout?
Could it be that when you go to this fat of wire, then all the alternator juice is running to the amp only on loud bass notes because the "floodgate" is so massive that it doesnt hold back any power in the charging circuit and because the amp will take it all and more, there is nothing left for the rest of the car?
In effect a smaller gauge wire is actually regulating the amount of amperage that actually can go to the amp on a loud note, so this "choke" keeps or "holds back" enough power for the other electricals in the car.
Maybe try smaller wire?
One other way to possibly get around this would be to install a seperate battery in the car so that one battery would be strictly for the car and its electricals and the other for the audio system. you would also require some type of battery isolator sytem that would make certain the car battery wasnt being drained by the audio system if there is such a device.
Just theories, I don't know if it is actually relevant but it makes sense from an R&D engineering standpoint.
swez on 06/29/2006 13:48:10
Hold on there DHK... this may be simpler than it appears.
0 gage wire is appropriate for this amp as it can draw some serious current at 0.5 -1.0 ohm loads. That part seems in order.
The BAT and ALT are also a good choice. However, your ultimate bottleneck may be the stock wiring. The "Big 3" power wire upgrade may be your only issue here.
Here's what and how to do the Big 3 upgrade:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=
In this case, use 0 gage wires from ALT to Bat + and same with ground on BAT to chassis ground. (Bare metal connection)
Also, make sure you have a very good ground at the amp too. This should be a bare metal connection to the floor pan. (seat belt bolts work well when they are cleaned with a good wire brush or wire wheel on a drill motor)
Swez
PS Try diconnecting the Cap from the circuit. It may be doing more harm than good as it too, acts like a circuit load.
FYI: Discharge the Cap before you remove the wires. A standard 12 volt automotive lamp will do. Just be sure to remove the Neg Bat terminal wire before you do this step.
DANGER: A fully charged 4.0 Farad Cap can give one a nasty bite if it is not discharged before you do your re-wiring. You don't want the "Shocky Monkey" to bite you!!!
mikerobb5000 on 06/29/2006 16:45:20
The Big 3 may be my problem. Not in that I haven't done it, it's just that I left the stock ground in place. The wire from the ALT is upgraded, with a 250A Fuse in place, but I have not upgraded the ground since I didn't believe it would cause this problem. But I'll do that now and try her out.
The CAP could really be dragging it down? I always thought it would be boosting the power rather than hogging it up. I'm worried about disconnecting it in fears that my BAT will drain from the massive load my Amp craves.
But thank you for the help,
Mike
PS: I know that CAP can cause a bite! I nearly got caught when I was charging it.
swez on 06/29/2006 21:12:21
Yes, Caps do act as an additional load on the charging system. They only take a charge when the target voltage drops below the Caps rated storage voltage.
Have you checked the DC voltage at the BAT terminals? Knowing that value with the car running will help a lot. Then, check the voltage supply at the amp B+ and ground terminals. If you see more than a 0.5 volt drop, something is not doing its job. A #8 ground at the BAT to body IS NOT ADEQUATE. This may be your main stickling point. Adding a length of 0 gage wire here, could be all that is needed and ditch the Cap. They make nice paper weights. hehe
Swez
Mike
Replies (4)
dkh on 06/29/2006 12:09:09
Why do you need 0 gauge wire all throughout?
Could it be that when you go to this fat of wire, then all the alternator juice is running to the amp only on loud bass notes because the "floodgate" is so massive that it doesnt hold back any power in the charging circuit and because the amp will take it all and more, there is nothing left for the rest of the car?
In effect a smaller gauge wire is actually regulating the amount of amperage that actually can go to the amp on a loud note, so this "choke" keeps or "holds back" enough power for the other electricals in the car.
Maybe try smaller wire?
One other way to possibly get around this would be to install a seperate battery in the car so that one battery would be strictly for the car and its electricals and the other for the audio system. you would also require some type of battery isolator sytem that would make certain the car battery wasnt being drained by the audio system if there is such a device.
Just theories, I don't know if it is actually relevant but it makes sense from an R&D engineering standpoint.
swez on 06/29/2006 13:48:10
Hold on there DHK... this may be simpler than it appears.
0 gage wire is appropriate for this amp as it can draw some serious current at 0.5 -1.0 ohm loads. That part seems in order.
The BAT and ALT are also a good choice. However, your ultimate bottleneck may be the stock wiring. The "Big 3" power wire upgrade may be your only issue here.
Here's what and how to do the Big 3 upgrade:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=
In this case, use 0 gage wires from ALT to Bat + and same with ground on BAT to chassis ground. (Bare metal connection)
Also, make sure you have a very good ground at the amp too. This should be a bare metal connection to the floor pan. (seat belt bolts work well when they are cleaned with a good wire brush or wire wheel on a drill motor)
Swez
PS Try diconnecting the Cap from the circuit. It may be doing more harm than good as it too, acts like a circuit load.
FYI: Discharge the Cap before you remove the wires. A standard 12 volt automotive lamp will do. Just be sure to remove the Neg Bat terminal wire before you do this step.
DANGER: A fully charged 4.0 Farad Cap can give one a nasty bite if it is not discharged before you do your re-wiring. You don't want the "Shocky Monkey" to bite you!!!
mikerobb5000 on 06/29/2006 16:45:20
The Big 3 may be my problem. Not in that I haven't done it, it's just that I left the stock ground in place. The wire from the ALT is upgraded, with a 250A Fuse in place, but I have not upgraded the ground since I didn't believe it would cause this problem. But I'll do that now and try her out.
The CAP could really be dragging it down? I always thought it would be boosting the power rather than hogging it up. I'm worried about disconnecting it in fears that my BAT will drain from the massive load my Amp craves.
But thank you for the help,
Mike
PS: I know that CAP can cause a bite! I nearly got caught when I was charging it.
swez on 06/29/2006 21:12:21
Yes, Caps do act as an additional load on the charging system. They only take a charge when the target voltage drops below the Caps rated storage voltage.
Have you checked the DC voltage at the BAT terminals? Knowing that value with the car running will help a lot. Then, check the voltage supply at the amp B+ and ground terminals. If you see more than a 0.5 volt drop, something is not doing its job. A #8 ground at the BAT to body IS NOT ADEQUATE. This may be your main stickling point. Adding a length of 0 gage wire here, could be all that is needed and ditch the Cap. They make nice paper weights. hehe
Swez
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