RE subwoofers.....

by HuntinPurser01
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I was looking through some past post of recommended products and have failed to see RE (resonant engineering) in any of the post's.

I was wondering if there subs are anything to fool with or if I should begin to look into other brands.

I am looking for a competition subwoofer with power ratings from the company lower than what it can actually take.

I would appreciate any comments or reccommendations.


Replies (21)
staticaddict on 06/14/2006 23:16:41
Single Cab Toyota? I'ld go with 2 10'' subs. JL, Infiniti and Alpines are some i would recommend because I have worked well with them before.

HuntinPurser01 on 06/15/2006 00:11:27
Thanks.

I recently had two Phoenix Gold 10's with both of them being in sealed Q-Logic truck boxes, but I am now thinking of going with one "major" 10" sub in a ported enclosure so I can either add another amp or upgrade completely later.

I would like a 10" sub with at least 1000rms and that is 6.5" deep or shallower so I can manage to fit it behind my seat.

But I would still like to hear what people have to say about RE subs.


staticaddict on 06/15/2006 00:22:02
Yeah I too have a compact pickup with the EXACT same boxes. They arn't bad boxes either. I had 2 JL W0-8's in there, and it sounded good. What are you looking at in subs? Do you have/find a ported box that can fix in a compact pickup?

Victor on 06/15/2006 04:42:07
Well., RE makes some real solid subs, they defenitely are top notch products.

You may as well think of buying Adire Audio Subs,with their now patented XBL2 technology, they make some awesome SQL subs.

though there are many many brands out there you can pick from, atlast the sound reproduced will depend more on the quality of installation rather than the produt itself.

Victor...


swez on 06/15/2006 13:32:28
In a recent install for an F-150 Crew Cab, we used the Pro Box model 04FS110.

http://www.proboxrocks.com/ford/04upf150supercab.shtml

This was one amazing 10" sub system, powered by a JL 500/1. It takes all 500 RMS + the JL amp can deliver and we peaked the SPL meter well above 125 dB of SPL. Best guess, it probably hits in the mid 130's, now that this sub has had some break in time.

The guy that runs this show is an excellent resource for custom or hard to fit sub systems. They're not cheap and shabby on workmanship either. Look them up and give them a call. See what they can do for your needs and then weigh out your options.

http://www.proboxrocks.com/contactus.shtml

Swez

ryan2 on 06/15/2006 17:55:39
From what I've heard RE makes some very good somes and I would believe it. There top of the line is the MT I believe, but those are some major compotetion subs. There RE XXX series which is just below the MT is compared to the Adire Brahma, but is said to be just a bit louder. I own a 12" Brahma and that is loud and sounds great. So if you want louder and great I would go with the XXX. I would like to try it out but I dont need to drop the $.

With a good bass song I cant keep the volume all the way up (with the Brahma) cuz it bothers me. So I only turn it up for show. But I would like a little more for show so if ur like me Im sure you cant go wrong with the XXX and the right box and power.


HuntinPurser01 on 06/16/2006 19:03:50
I thank everyone for their input on a sub even though I have not ordered one yet but now need some help for the box.

I am planning on building it out of 3/4" mdf and have spent some time with measurements and plans.

I am at 1.7 cu. ft. of airspace after a figured .16 displacement of subwoofer.

The outside dimentions are running at 45" long, 15" high, with being 6" deep at top and 8" deep at bottom.

The sub is going to placed directly in the middle of both sides with possibly being shifted towards the bottom more than top.

Then there is the problem of porting it.

I do not really know how many, if more than one needs to be added, or where they need to be placed in the box.

Right know I am planning on the port/ports having a 3" diameter and the length will have to be adjusted when I find out what hertz the box needs to be tuned to, but right know I am figuring one port at 8.75" deep for 32 hrz (I think).

The main goal is to find out about the ports and yes I do have some experience with building boxes just not ever fooled much with porting.

Once again I would like all suggestions and to know about the porting aspects. Thanks.


HuntinPurser01 on 06/16/2006 19:08:14
Sorry to have to post again but I forgot to say that the port displacment was not subtracted from airspace for my tuning purposes earlier.

Victor on 06/16/2006 20:16:55
But what sub are you considering here????

swez on 06/16/2006 22:03:59
OK, looks like this will work out nice and you can port at the top of the wedge. Can use dual 3" ports if you like. (you'll have enough room at the top to mount the ports with a 6" width, minus wall thickness)

Now, you'll need to find a shallow sub that will not go deeper than 6.0" deep. If the sub is just a tad deeper, (6.5" or a wee bit deeper) an external trim ring of 3/4" MDF will help give more clearance.

The internal airspace of a box with the dimensions you gave, is 1.87 ft^3. Your sub displacement is subtracted as noted:

1.87 - 0.16 = 1.7 ft^3 = Vb - S.D. = 1.7 ft^3 We agree!

Now port displacement:

3" dia 10.25" long will get you to about 30-32 Hz. If you use dual ports, then go 3" dia and 5 1/8" long per port. Your port displacement here, is about 0.03 ft^3. This value is so small compared to Vb, the effects on PTF are very minimal.

I'd say this has a very good potential if your overall dimensions are correct. However, same ? as Victor asked... What sub are you thinking about?

Swez

PS Yes, by all means, load the sub as close to the bottom of the wedge as possible for maximum depth clearances. Your maximum average clearance here is 6.25" at the base and decreases as you move up to the top of the wedge. If the sub is vented at the rear of the magnet structure, allow at least 1.5" airspace between cooling vent and back wall of box. (This is where a trim space ring may come in handy)



HuntinPurser01 on 06/18/2006 01:44:09
Sorry for the couple day weight but Thanks A Lot.

I am planning on going with the RE (Resonant Engineering) SX 10"

http://reaudio.com/html/

Ahead ^ is the best I have found for RE subs and yes the site does say that all of the SX series comes in dual 2 ohm but I have spoken with the company and can get it in dual 4 ohm.

I am looking at this sub being 6.125" deep so I may have to add a .25" to top depth to get a little more room behind the sub.

I would also like to know the airspace this sub should be comfortable with or how much it is recommended to have with a ported box.

Also do you think if I have the top depth of the box at 6.25" and the bottom depth at 8", if that will be deep enough for a sub that is 6.125" deep and if it is placed right hight-wise in the box that there will be enough space between magnets and box.

That is all I can think of right know and will get back tommorrow. Once again, I would appreciate any recommendations or comments.

swez on 06/19/2006 07:51:20
Best to contact RE for detailed sub enclosure recommendations on the sub you plan to buy. RE's site is not easy to navigate and some key details are best obtained from Tech Service people.

tech@reaudio.com

Looks like the SX series SQL specs are 1.25 ft^3 for the 10" SX sub. They suggest a port tuning of 32 Hz. However, they do not note the depth spec of this woofer on thier website.

Swez

HuntinPurser01 on 06/19/2006 13:02:13
It says on the page I linked above when you go to products at the bottom, then to subs on right, to SX on bottom again, to ts on left, it gives a few of its specs under SX10

mount depth - 6.125"

swez on 06/19/2006 20:07:00
That's going to be a tight fit in a 1.25 ft^3 box, if the top and bottom parts of the wedge cannot be adjusted to a deeper box.

Can you manage say a 9.5" - 10.0" base and an 8.0" peak at the top of the wedge design? If this is possible and does not short change your leg room, then we need a few other dimensional adjustments in length or height to meet the recommended sub air space.

The other option, would be to install an external 3/4" - 1.0" trim ring (or panel) on the outer face of the box. This sub is massive and heavy. The extra mounting thickness and surface area, will help support the sub's weight and give added clearance w/o adjusting box depth.

Comments?
Swez

HuntinPurser01 on 06/19/2006 20:35:31
The dimentions I have stated above are about as big as I can go besides another inch longer or higher and maybe another 1/2 inch on bottom depth.

I am, lets say, not so small of a guy, and I am right up against the stearing wheel nas it is, so I can not manage to give anymore room away for the seat to move up.

For the extra trim ring, I have debated on this, but the sub will be pushing into the back of my seat pretty good as it is and I do not believe it would be good for the sub to push it out another inch into the back of the seat.

I also believe the RE website for the SX10 suggested a 1.6 cuft ported box with a 32Hz tuning for the best SQL. (tech at bottom of main page, to enclosures on right, to sq/sql-volumes on bottom, to sx on left)

I hate to say that I can not give anymore distance for the top or bottom of the box, but do you believe the sub will fit in the box with it being 6.125" deep and the box being 8" at bottom and 6" at top, with me moving the sub about 2.75" up from the bottom of the box (need to b/c of bar running distance of seat at bottom of seat) ?

swez on 06/19/2006 20:43:58
I hear your predicament. Frankly, I would point you back to Pro Box as this wedge is less than 6 inches deep at the widest part of the wedge. It is designed for F-150 Super Cabs and fits right under the rear seat, behind the driver's seat.

Here, you can mount this box vertically on the back wall and gain some much needed leg room.

http://www.proboxrocks.com

This model uses a 10", ported sub model and can take 500 watt RMS @ 2 ohms. It is strong, clean, very compact and hits very hard once the woofer breaks in.

Here's a very shallow mount (6.25") single 12" ported. This can be mounted to the rear wall of your cabin and give you a few click back on the driver's seat. Just a matter of finding a sub you like to complete the package. Am sure Pro Box has 12's or can make you a custom version of this for a single 10" sub.

Just review the site and call them for any custom fit options they can offer to you. These guys make very good enclosures and have a nice selection of subs that fit.

Swez


HuntinPurser01 on 06/19/2006 21:28:51
Thanks again for the recommendation.

But do you believe I will be able to get the sub in this box or should I not even worry about trying to get the sub b/c I can not get it to fit behind my seat?

swez on 06/20/2006 09:57:32
Have a look at this box... it's a slim line wedge for a 12" sub. I don't know the entire dimensions on it, (H, W & D) but it looks like it could easily be mounted on the back wall of your cabin and not take up too much leg room.

http://www.proboxrocks.com/ford/00-03f250-350supercrew.shtml

As for the sub, ask them what subs they have available for this box design. You'll want a net 2 ohms for your Class D amp. (4+4 DVC) Not sure what power ratings are available in their collection, but a 400 - 600 watt RMS sub is plenty strong.

If you are heart-set on the RE sub, consider a fiberglass/MDF type enclosure. Here, you can go with 5/8" thick MDF and glass it to a custom fit. With the fiberglass option, you can get the depth needed for the sub with a slight protrusion and shape the rest of the enclosure as needed for stealth and proper dimensions.

Yes, glassing is a lot of work and time, but the results are often superior to an off the shelf, stock box.

What say you?
Swez

HuntinPurser01 on 06/20/2006 12:24:25
I say that I would really like the RE sub and I need a tutiorial or an article that talks about and tells how to "glass."

swez on 06/20/2006 13:28:59
Here's a primer on glassing. As sure you can find lots of tips and tuitorials off Google searches too.

http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t23

Swez

HuntinPurser01 on 06/20/2006 17:41:44
Thanks.

I will look up on this some and get back with ya with how I have to end up doing everything.



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