I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with the premium sound system. I want to add a set of subs to it. I patched in with the rear speakers to my amp, that then goes to the subs. I think that the signal is already amplified by the factory deck and is causing a power overload at the subs...Does anyone know how I should go about putting this in? Thanks in advance for your help. GRIN
Replies (7)
ttocs on 05/30/2006 10:39:59
more then likely you are getting the signal after it has gone through fords "premium" amplifier resulting in a signal that is already distorted, amplified again resulting in a bad signal. I would try to get the signal behind the deck.
Steve_Holter on 05/30/2006 10:55:28
How do I find the signal before it gets through the deck?
swez on 05/30/2006 12:32:04
Before you rewire things, try adjusting the sub amp gain. It may be set too a level where it distorts way too soon. Try the 4 volt (or higher) set point and see if that cleans things up a bit.
Also, set your Low Pass Filter, (LPF) to about 80 Hz., and use little or no bass boost on the amp. (+6dB boost is more than enough)
Does your system say JBL anywhere on the HU? Ford has been using JBL for high end audio products for many years.
Swez
Steve_Holter on 05/30/2006 13:25:54
All right guys, I'll admit to being dumb here as this is my first shot at it. I took the rear speaker out leads from the HU and patched them now a set of aftermarket 6X9's and they sound just great. I have no direct connection to the amp itself. There in is my question....I have two RCA inputs (rght/left) labeled low input, I also have 2 RCA plugs labeled Pass L & R. Can I use one of these for the signal that is already through the deck? If it helps it is a Jensen XA2100 200 watt amp(Don't Laugh Out Loud) My radio only says Ford on it. It is the model with AM/FM Cassete and CD player. Idon't know for certian if it is the "premium Model" or not. Your help is greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks
swez on 05/30/2006 15:29:33
No "dummies" allowed on the site... only people who wish to learn, take instuctions well and leave feedback. Inexperienced hands are most welcome. SMILE
OK, your amp is very modest in power and depending on the sub(s) you have now, will dictate how to wire subs to amp. What make and model sub(s) do you have now?
This amp has a High Signal input feature. Here, you can run taps off the rear speakers for signal and use the Molex connector that come with the amp. Do you have this Molex connector? It has 4 or 5 wires and a molded plug that fits into the side of the amp.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QkmWibxmJ2e/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=100&id=detailed_info&i=110xa2100#Tab
Amp Manual and setup guide: Read it carefully!!!
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/110/110XA2100.PDF
Since this is a Factory HU, you will need to run a REMote turn on lead from the ACC/IGN section of the fuse panel, to the REM trigger lug on amp. The amp ground must be connected to a bare metal point like floor pan. (Manual explains this)
You'll need a power cable from the BAT + terminal, back to amp. An inline fuse is also needed on this line and will be the last thing you install before firing up the amp. I would suggest #8 gage wiring for this power and grounding wires. Fuse value, near the BAT (20-30A) rating is fine.
Alrighty then, look over the manual, ask questions as needed and we'll walk you through the steps as requested.
Swez COFFEE
PS Welcome to CK! When you are done with the project, feel free to donate a few bucks to keep this site going. We are funded by donations and every dollar counts. The money you'll save by doing this yourself and the tech support available here, are well worth supporting. Thanks in advance and enjoy the site.
Steve_Holter on 05/30/2006 15:49:08
Alright power to amp and remote trigger are done. I do not have a plug to go into the molex recepticle. I think I need a feed to go to the low pass side and then out to the subs on the other side of the amp. My subs are Sony xplods 10" I think they are 400Watts. I just don't know where to get the out for the subs...
swez on 05/30/2006 19:09:39
Hummmm, no Molex huh? Many car audio parts carry these as unused spares. Some will even give you one for free of low cost.
If you wish to use the Low signal, (Line level RCA) inputs, you can use RCA wires off the rear speakers too. However, you will need a resistor to bring down the speaker voltage levels to a range that is usable by the amp. Here's a basic diagram to consider:
Speaker + ----------/\/\/\/\/\/\--------- RCA pin connector
Speaker - ================= Ground on RCA
------/\/\/\/\/\----- = resistor
Now, to determine the proper resistor value and wattage, we need to know the maximum AC voltage the speaker gets, when you are playing them at almost distortion point. That means you'll need an AC voltmeter to get that reading.
Once you know the AC voltage at rear deck speakers, I'll run a few calculations and see what resistor values are needed.
FYI: A variable or fixed resistor (attenuator) might be a good option here. (L-pad) Then, you can adjust the resistor value manually, to get the right voltage into your Jensen amp w/o overloading the Line input pre-amps.
Swez
Replies (7)
ttocs on 05/30/2006 10:39:59
more then likely you are getting the signal after it has gone through fords "premium" amplifier resulting in a signal that is already distorted, amplified again resulting in a bad signal. I would try to get the signal behind the deck.
Steve_Holter on 05/30/2006 10:55:28
How do I find the signal before it gets through the deck?
swez on 05/30/2006 12:32:04
Before you rewire things, try adjusting the sub amp gain. It may be set too a level where it distorts way too soon. Try the 4 volt (or higher) set point and see if that cleans things up a bit.
Also, set your Low Pass Filter, (LPF) to about 80 Hz., and use little or no bass boost on the amp. (+6dB boost is more than enough)
Does your system say JBL anywhere on the HU? Ford has been using JBL for high end audio products for many years.
Swez
Steve_Holter on 05/30/2006 13:25:54
All right guys, I'll admit to being dumb here as this is my first shot at it. I took the rear speaker out leads from the HU and patched them now a set of aftermarket 6X9's and they sound just great. I have no direct connection to the amp itself. There in is my question....I have two RCA inputs (rght/left) labeled low input, I also have 2 RCA plugs labeled Pass L & R. Can I use one of these for the signal that is already through the deck? If it helps it is a Jensen XA2100 200 watt amp(Don't Laugh Out Loud) My radio only says Ford on it. It is the model with AM/FM Cassete and CD player. Idon't know for certian if it is the "premium Model" or not. Your help is greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks
swez on 05/30/2006 15:29:33
No "dummies" allowed on the site... only people who wish to learn, take instuctions well and leave feedback. Inexperienced hands are most welcome. SMILE
OK, your amp is very modest in power and depending on the sub(s) you have now, will dictate how to wire subs to amp. What make and model sub(s) do you have now?
This amp has a High Signal input feature. Here, you can run taps off the rear speakers for signal and use the Molex connector that come with the amp. Do you have this Molex connector? It has 4 or 5 wires and a molded plug that fits into the side of the amp.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QkmWibxmJ2e/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=100&id=detailed_info&i=110xa2100#Tab
Amp Manual and setup guide: Read it carefully!!!
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/110/110XA2100.PDF
Since this is a Factory HU, you will need to run a REMote turn on lead from the ACC/IGN section of the fuse panel, to the REM trigger lug on amp. The amp ground must be connected to a bare metal point like floor pan. (Manual explains this)
You'll need a power cable from the BAT + terminal, back to amp. An inline fuse is also needed on this line and will be the last thing you install before firing up the amp. I would suggest #8 gage wiring for this power and grounding wires. Fuse value, near the BAT (20-30A) rating is fine.
Alrighty then, look over the manual, ask questions as needed and we'll walk you through the steps as requested.
Swez COFFEE
PS Welcome to CK! When you are done with the project, feel free to donate a few bucks to keep this site going. We are funded by donations and every dollar counts. The money you'll save by doing this yourself and the tech support available here, are well worth supporting. Thanks in advance and enjoy the site.
Steve_Holter on 05/30/2006 15:49:08
Alright power to amp and remote trigger are done. I do not have a plug to go into the molex recepticle. I think I need a feed to go to the low pass side and then out to the subs on the other side of the amp. My subs are Sony xplods 10" I think they are 400Watts. I just don't know where to get the out for the subs...
swez on 05/30/2006 19:09:39
Hummmm, no Molex huh? Many car audio parts carry these as unused spares. Some will even give you one for free of low cost.
If you wish to use the Low signal, (Line level RCA) inputs, you can use RCA wires off the rear speakers too. However, you will need a resistor to bring down the speaker voltage levels to a range that is usable by the amp. Here's a basic diagram to consider:
Speaker + ----------/\/\/\/\/\/\--------- RCA pin connector
Speaker - ================= Ground on RCA
------/\/\/\/\/\----- = resistor
Now, to determine the proper resistor value and wattage, we need to know the maximum AC voltage the speaker gets, when you are playing them at almost distortion point. That means you'll need an AC voltmeter to get that reading.
Once you know the AC voltage at rear deck speakers, I'll run a few calculations and see what resistor values are needed.
FYI: A variable or fixed resistor (attenuator) might be a good option here. (L-pad) Then, you can adjust the resistor value manually, to get the right voltage into your Jensen amp w/o overloading the Line input pre-amps.
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
