Currently I have a system in my car which i was forced to change around because i got a new car...so basically i gutted my old car and put it all in the new one. The only problem is that i had to change my mids and highs because of different sizes available for the newer car.
I have a 97 Mercury Mystique V6 24V DOHC 2.6L
- (HU) Sony XPlod something or other...
- (Front/Rear Speakers) Rockford T1682C - 6"x8" 2-Way
Full-Range Speaker - 75 Watts RMS
- (Front/Rear Amp) Sony XPlod xm-475gsx 4 channel 800
watt - 75W x 4 @ 4 ohms
- (Subs) 2 x 12" Sony XPlod 900 watt max 300 RMS in a
sealed box
- (Subs Amp) Rockford 500x 4 channel amp bridged to 2
channels at 4 ohm - 250 rms x 2
- 4 gauge lead w/ 100 amp fuse --- distribution block --- 2
farad cap using 8 gauge split to the two amps.
Now I have the ability to pick up a Rockford 700s amp and two MTX Thunder T4512-44 12" DVC subs.
- Rockford 700S 2 channel amp - 175rms x 2 @ 4 ohms
- MTX Thunder T4512-44 12" DVC subs - recommended
112.5 - 225 RMS
So my thought is that i can remove the sony amp and subs. Run the MTX subs on the rockford 700S and put the speakers on the rockford 4 channel amp. So here are my questions.
- I have a problem now with the 4 channel rockford amp
overheating when it is running the 2 sony subs - will this
help with the new setup? Meaning no more overheating...
- I am reducing the power being delivered to the subs
because i had a 4 channel bridged with the rockford at 250
rms per sub...but i believe that the new setup will sound
alot better since i am putting better subs (from what i
believe) onto a more appropriate amp.
- by getting rid of the sony amp all together and running the
rockford 4 channel amp to run the speakers i am hoping
to improve the quality and reduce distortion, even though
once again i am reducing power delieverd. Is this trade off
worth it, are my assumptions correct? also with this
setup will i be underpowering my speakers leading to a
burnt voice coil?
- Will i be supplying my amps with enough power using a
high end battery for the car and the cap? Do you think i
need to get a better alternator than the stock? Anything I
should do to help this?
- By switching from a single voice coil with the sony subs to
the DVCs of the MTX subs, will there be any additional
gain? Is this pointless? A specific way to wire this setup
such as parallel or in-line?
Thanx...
Replies (7)
swez on 05/28/2006 15:28:44
Hummm, very good details and good questions mate!
Yes, Use the RF 4 channel to power your front and rear full range speakers. This will keep the amp running cooler if the amp gains are matched to the HU RCA outputs correctly.
As for subs and amp, consider a solid Class D Mono sub amp that is stable at 2 ohms. These run cooler and draw less power from the electrical system as a whole.
A strong BATTERY (800 CCA rated) would be better than any Cap can ever do. It will act as a current storage buffer between ALT and amps. Basically, ditch the CAP or use it as a paper weight.
You would be wise to drop to a #2 gage power line from BAT/Fuse to a D-block. Then use #4 power/ground wiring for both amps. This will reduce voltage losses from ALT/BAT to amps.
Another thought, try the "BIG 3" wiring upgrade as noted in the link below. Use #4 gage wires here for maximum power transfer from ALT/BAT and grounds.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=
As for what subs to use, a pair of 4 ohm SVC's are fine. Rated at 250 watts RMS, the pair can handle +500 watts RMS. The more efficient the subs are, the more bass SPL you'll get from them. Just make sure you have a good match on enclosure to the subs chosen. Again, proper gain and filter settings make all the difference.
Bonus: Do the rear seats fold down for more cargo space in this vehicle? If yes, you'll get more bass into the cabin part of the car with at least one seat in the lowered position and sub box aimed to rear bumper.
Comments?
Swez
PhiKappaTau on 05/28/2006 16:14:07
--"This will keep the amp running cooler if the amp gains are
matched to the HU RCA outputs correctly."--
I'm assuming that you are referring to slowly turning up HU output until distortion is audible, then same with amp?
As for the class D, is the RF 700s not a D? If not, would you have a recommendation for an amp that would be within $200 used? are all class d mono? with a mono i could run two subs off of that right?
so is getting rid of the cheap sony subs and replacing them with the MTX a good idea? if not could you recommend a brand or sub that i could find for 125 used for both?
and the rear seats do, same with the older car and i think i picked that up here a few years ago...but then forgot and faced them towards the cabin...thnx for the reminder...
Victor on 05/28/2006 16:33:45
do you have a yahoo, msn or skype account, then it would be much easier to give you good recommendations in real time chat..
my yahoo id is
victorginger@yahoo.com
msn
victorexports@hotmail.com
skpye id is
victorginger
Victor...
PhiKappaTau on 05/28/2006 16:53:35
sorry, none of the above...i use aim...
aim = duncajcb
swez on 05/28/2006 17:33:12
That Punch 700S is a 2 channel, Class A/B amp. (S = Stereo) It's a very strong amp when briged to MONO and run at 4 ohms. (About 750 wattts RMS +) The fact it is an Class A/B amp, makes it run hotter and draw much more power than a Class D amp of similar power ratings.
Gain settings: Yes, the by ear method is what you noted. However, knowing the HU RCA output specs, will help you dial in the amp without excessive clipping, distortion and heat. The amp gain settings are matched to HU voltage.
About Class D's, they are MONO, but have L&R inputs combined at the amplifier stage. You get A+B signal at the output stage and can run multiple subs that match impedence load the amp can handle.
Frankly, 500-600 watts RMS is plenty of power for most Bass heads. Beyond that, electrical upgrades come into the picture and get pretty expensive.
As for sub amps, consider Alpine, JBL, Infinity, MTX, HiFonics, JL, RF and other well known names. Best place to get a feel for low prices, are off e-bay for new & used gear. Have a look and see what you can scare up.
Also, don't be afraid to look at a single 12" sub and ported enclosure designs. A strong 12" sub will put out plenty of deep bass, in a well designed enclosure. Smaller cargo space needed too.
Yes, sell off your Sony subs, box and even the 4 channel and use those funds for a good amp and perhaps a Alpine SWR-1242D sub. They are solid woofers and can get them new for under $125.00.
http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=2167&aff=45847
Specs:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Yb3S1vMNLj4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&id=detailed_info&i=500SWR1242#Tab
This amp would be a very nice match for that sub:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16412
Finally, MTX does make some good amps and their newer subs are pretty good too. However, you'll pay more in most cases as MTX considers themselves a top drawer supplier. Are they? Not from my previous experience. Good yes, great and worth the $$$, probably not.
Comments?
Swez
Victor on 05/28/2006 17:54:46
we are on yhoo dave
PhiKappaTau on 05/31/2006 18:15:16
just wanted to say thanx to swez and victor...thanx for the great help on setting up this system. i wont have the time to do the bog 3 yet, but i will get to it this summer.
just so you guys know, i picked up the Alpine SWR-1222D, 12" 500 RMS in a ported enclosure within the manufacturer specs, and a phoenix gold xenon X600.1 (mono 600 watt, 1 ohm stable, class d). I'll let you all know how it sounds later when it comes. and thanx to victor and swez i managed to pick it all up for $300 which is what i expect to get for the sony stuff.
I have a 97 Mercury Mystique V6 24V DOHC 2.6L
- (HU) Sony XPlod something or other...
- (Front/Rear Speakers) Rockford T1682C - 6"x8" 2-Way
Full-Range Speaker - 75 Watts RMS
- (Front/Rear Amp) Sony XPlod xm-475gsx 4 channel 800
watt - 75W x 4 @ 4 ohms
- (Subs) 2 x 12" Sony XPlod 900 watt max 300 RMS in a
sealed box
- (Subs Amp) Rockford 500x 4 channel amp bridged to 2
channels at 4 ohm - 250 rms x 2
- 4 gauge lead w/ 100 amp fuse --- distribution block --- 2
farad cap using 8 gauge split to the two amps.
Now I have the ability to pick up a Rockford 700s amp and two MTX Thunder T4512-44 12" DVC subs.
- Rockford 700S 2 channel amp - 175rms x 2 @ 4 ohms
- MTX Thunder T4512-44 12" DVC subs - recommended
112.5 - 225 RMS
So my thought is that i can remove the sony amp and subs. Run the MTX subs on the rockford 700S and put the speakers on the rockford 4 channel amp. So here are my questions.
- I have a problem now with the 4 channel rockford amp
overheating when it is running the 2 sony subs - will this
help with the new setup? Meaning no more overheating...
- I am reducing the power being delivered to the subs
because i had a 4 channel bridged with the rockford at 250
rms per sub...but i believe that the new setup will sound
alot better since i am putting better subs (from what i
believe) onto a more appropriate amp.
- by getting rid of the sony amp all together and running the
rockford 4 channel amp to run the speakers i am hoping
to improve the quality and reduce distortion, even though
once again i am reducing power delieverd. Is this trade off
worth it, are my assumptions correct? also with this
setup will i be underpowering my speakers leading to a
burnt voice coil?
- Will i be supplying my amps with enough power using a
high end battery for the car and the cap? Do you think i
need to get a better alternator than the stock? Anything I
should do to help this?
- By switching from a single voice coil with the sony subs to
the DVCs of the MTX subs, will there be any additional
gain? Is this pointless? A specific way to wire this setup
such as parallel or in-line?
Thanx...
Replies (7)
swez on 05/28/2006 15:28:44
Hummm, very good details and good questions mate!
Yes, Use the RF 4 channel to power your front and rear full range speakers. This will keep the amp running cooler if the amp gains are matched to the HU RCA outputs correctly.
As for subs and amp, consider a solid Class D Mono sub amp that is stable at 2 ohms. These run cooler and draw less power from the electrical system as a whole.
A strong BATTERY (800 CCA rated) would be better than any Cap can ever do. It will act as a current storage buffer between ALT and amps. Basically, ditch the CAP or use it as a paper weight.
You would be wise to drop to a #2 gage power line from BAT/Fuse to a D-block. Then use #4 power/ground wiring for both amps. This will reduce voltage losses from ALT/BAT to amps.
Another thought, try the "BIG 3" wiring upgrade as noted in the link below. Use #4 gage wires here for maximum power transfer from ALT/BAT and grounds.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=
As for what subs to use, a pair of 4 ohm SVC's are fine. Rated at 250 watts RMS, the pair can handle +500 watts RMS. The more efficient the subs are, the more bass SPL you'll get from them. Just make sure you have a good match on enclosure to the subs chosen. Again, proper gain and filter settings make all the difference.
Bonus: Do the rear seats fold down for more cargo space in this vehicle? If yes, you'll get more bass into the cabin part of the car with at least one seat in the lowered position and sub box aimed to rear bumper.
Comments?
Swez
PhiKappaTau on 05/28/2006 16:14:07
--"This will keep the amp running cooler if the amp gains are
matched to the HU RCA outputs correctly."--
I'm assuming that you are referring to slowly turning up HU output until distortion is audible, then same with amp?
As for the class D, is the RF 700s not a D? If not, would you have a recommendation for an amp that would be within $200 used? are all class d mono? with a mono i could run two subs off of that right?
so is getting rid of the cheap sony subs and replacing them with the MTX a good idea? if not could you recommend a brand or sub that i could find for 125 used for both?
and the rear seats do, same with the older car and i think i picked that up here a few years ago...but then forgot and faced them towards the cabin...thnx for the reminder...
Victor on 05/28/2006 16:33:45
do you have a yahoo, msn or skype account, then it would be much easier to give you good recommendations in real time chat..
my yahoo id is
victorginger@yahoo.com
msn
victorexports@hotmail.com
skpye id is
victorginger
Victor...
PhiKappaTau on 05/28/2006 16:53:35
sorry, none of the above...i use aim...
aim = duncajcb
swez on 05/28/2006 17:33:12
That Punch 700S is a 2 channel, Class A/B amp. (S = Stereo) It's a very strong amp when briged to MONO and run at 4 ohms. (About 750 wattts RMS +) The fact it is an Class A/B amp, makes it run hotter and draw much more power than a Class D amp of similar power ratings.
Gain settings: Yes, the by ear method is what you noted. However, knowing the HU RCA output specs, will help you dial in the amp without excessive clipping, distortion and heat. The amp gain settings are matched to HU voltage.
About Class D's, they are MONO, but have L&R inputs combined at the amplifier stage. You get A+B signal at the output stage and can run multiple subs that match impedence load the amp can handle.
Frankly, 500-600 watts RMS is plenty of power for most Bass heads. Beyond that, electrical upgrades come into the picture and get pretty expensive.
As for sub amps, consider Alpine, JBL, Infinity, MTX, HiFonics, JL, RF and other well known names. Best place to get a feel for low prices, are off e-bay for new & used gear. Have a look and see what you can scare up.
Also, don't be afraid to look at a single 12" sub and ported enclosure designs. A strong 12" sub will put out plenty of deep bass, in a well designed enclosure. Smaller cargo space needed too.
Yes, sell off your Sony subs, box and even the 4 channel and use those funds for a good amp and perhaps a Alpine SWR-1242D sub. They are solid woofers and can get them new for under $125.00.
http://www.techronics.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=2167&aff=45847
Specs:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Yb3S1vMNLj4/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&id=detailed_info&i=500SWR1242#Tab
This amp would be a very nice match for that sub:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16412
Finally, MTX does make some good amps and their newer subs are pretty good too. However, you'll pay more in most cases as MTX considers themselves a top drawer supplier. Are they? Not from my previous experience. Good yes, great and worth the $$$, probably not.
Comments?
Swez
Victor on 05/28/2006 17:54:46
we are on yhoo dave
PhiKappaTau on 05/31/2006 18:15:16
just wanted to say thanx to swez and victor...thanx for the great help on setting up this system. i wont have the time to do the bog 3 yet, but i will get to it this summer.
just so you guys know, i picked up the Alpine SWR-1222D, 12" 500 RMS in a ported enclosure within the manufacturer specs, and a phoenix gold xenon X600.1 (mono 600 watt, 1 ohm stable, class d). I'll let you all know how it sounds later when it comes. and thanx to victor and swez i managed to pick it all up for $300 which is what i expect to get for the sony stuff.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
