I have 2 solo baric 15s-l5, they are dual 2 ohm vcoil. I bought them and 2 audiobahn a8000t's to push them for $500. I jumped on that deal without thinking, the amps are only 2 ohm stable...... I played with the setup and was getting more efficient sound out of one woofer being pushed by the 2 amps. to do this I had one feeding off the other's rca outs. the one that was first in the series stopped working and the protection light came on. I took the cover off and saw that the ground wire from the rca plate was burnt up. I put a new wiree in and it still says protection.......What could be wrong with my amp? By the way I am now down to the one amp one speaker set-up, which sucks because I am only getting 400 rms out of the amp and the speakers are 750 rms. Thanks for any help you can give me guys.
my email is tnccb_110@yahoo.com
Replies (10)
breakneck21 on 05/24/2006 19:57:37
oh, for clarification- the 15's and amps all together were $500
ttocs on 05/25/2006 00:24:58
I don't think I have ever seen anyone throw any attitude on here before, no reason to start now. Kiss and make up er get over it..
Is it lighting up in protection with the subs disconnected?
breakneck21 on 05/25/2006 00:29:07
yes it is. power only and it is lit up protection.
by the way ash, I don't hold grudges, nothing is worth giving a 3rd thought to in my opinion. I am sorry if it seemed like I was being rude with you in the first e-mail, that wasn't my intention. I also apologize for goin off, but you can only imagine why with my intelligence insulted.
xplicitblitzboi on 05/25/2006 03:10:14
"I wouldn't go with jbl even if I were trying to push them to the limit"
why?
Victor on 05/25/2006 03:21:08
Well,
Our here at CK, we prefer to let just a few golds or members handle one post, so that they can follow the lead, do some indepth finding, and follow up on the developments, it is not possible for all to reply on all posts..
Thats why we usually prefer not to interfere on a post thats running smoothly. But here i see a lot of bumps...... Well just to tell you, ASH and SCOTT are respected golds out here, ASH knows his job pretty well, he has very good amount of knowledge and definitely knows the basics of Car audio very well.
Loosing him on this post was something u wud not have wished if u really wanted to get ammended your short falls and get a good sounding sub-system.
He was right when he said that you made a wrong choice buying the subs and amps.. reasons....read the list below..
1 - Audiobahn is not as good as soooo many other amp manufacturers in the market. Over rated amps, not that clean and stable at lower impedances. Basically theier looks make it a piece of Audio Jewellery.
2 - Each amp is 400wrms@4ohms and 800wrms@2ohms. While each sub is 750wrms and 2ohm DVC. now here comes the catch ASH was refering to in his very first reply but you did not listen to him and held on to your own guns.. follows the explanation
now if you use 1 amp and 1 sub .. you can wire the sub for a total of either 4ohms or 1 ohm load.. means that your amp is only giving u 400wrms and the sub is 750wrms. which i guess u can see is not a good match.
if you use 1 amp and 2 subs .. you can wire the subs for a net load of 2 ohms or 8 ohms or 0.5 ohms, you amp is not 0.5 ohms stable and at 8 ohms it will cut down a lot of power, so u obviously wire it for a net 2 ohm load. that means your amp gives 800wrms@ 2 ohms, ie. 400wrms to each sub.. again the same condition not a good match... agree??
if you use 2 amps and 2 subs, again the same condition 400wrms to each sub not a good match...
now coming to the setup u had made.. 1sub and 2 amps.. first thing i dont see anywhere on the manufacturers data sheet that these are strappable. second these are class A/B monoblocks.. so not as efficient as the class D , so they are drawing more current to produce same amount of power compared to a class D. each of these amps have 30+30Amp fuses that is total of 60 amperes per amp, that makes it a total current draw of 120ampere at full potential + anyother 2 or 4 channel amp u might be runnig ( which u have not mentioned here , incomplete info), + your head unit, + AC and other car electricals would add atleast another 50-80 amperes, almost a 200amp draw at full potential when it of the system and car electricals... this is a very heavy load on your electricals and you will never be able to run them at their best without giving them enough current and for that you would have to spend another $500 on an alternator , a big 3 and a battery upgrade.
now looking at the way you have wired the amps and the sub ( not to mention the other sub must be lying in your garage , they why did u buy it?? , anyways thats your choice)...
these amps are non strappable as far as i see it, what you would have done is wire each coil to each amp.. is it? if that then you are putting your sub at a great risk, because if you do not set exactly identical gains on each amp then you are about to blow one of the voice coils in no time.. That is not a good thing either.. and more importantly, each amp gives 800wrms @ 2 ohms, now the sub is 750wrms meaning each voice coil is 325wrms, damn.. you are giving 800wrms to a voice coil rated at 325wrms.. ask any one on this site or for that matter anysite if that is a good match.. i dunno how ur sub survived but i guess moreover you have not provided authenticated and sufficient info.
And now your amp goes wrong, dunno how u have exactly wired them but you didnt even bother to mention all the details in a understandable manner.
It seems very obvious that we are here to help but you are holding onto your guns and dont seem to like the help we are giving..
This is a free help site and we have helped hundreds of people with their car audio systems. The combined experience of the members out here is immense. People who come here leave all their atitude behind and develop a patient ear to listen and learn. Accept their short falls and we help them ammend it, help them save money and help them get best results from their systems..
We are doing all this for free cause it a passion for all of us.. There lies no vested interest in helping you, so i guess you should know that whatever we advice you is definitely for your own good.
Anyways, i hope you understand something , but no more flames from either side or i delete this post..
Victor...
P.S : I would suggest you skip this post now and make a brand new post with a well presented layout , proper details, and sufficient details , including, your ful setup, wiring details, specs of everything, and the problem , and how you wanna go ahead with it. then we should be able to provide you real good help.
And dont worry we never develop a prejudicial impression about anyone here on CK, so you are most welcome here to help and be helped.. COFFEE
swez on 05/25/2006 08:03:06
The amp that goes into protect has a damaged PC board. Would need to send it out for repairs. Probably fried the power supply or amplifier circuits. May not be worth repairing???
In all, this combination of subs and amps are doomed to under-perform. Not a good fit, no matter what the price was. It seems that is clear to all responders and the poster now.
From what I see now, your fall back position is a strong 2 ohm stable, Class D amp that can deliver a solid 1500 watts RMS @ 2 ohm, to power these subs. (subs wired series/parallel = 2 ohms)
FYI: We don't do flame wars at CK. That's what makes this site very unique from many other forums out there. Basically, when one jumps on our guys, expect a "raft of correction" from other CK members.
OK, pressing onward, see if you can recoup some losses by selling/trading the working A8000T. Then, look for a 2 ohm stable MONO amp that can deliver the power needed for these subs.
Good luck and no more ruckus please, or the entire post will be deleated.
Thanks for your full cooperation,
Swez
Ash on 05/25/2006 18:14:51
I apologize for my behavior, as I strive to get along with everyone despite my quick temper. I do admit to having short patience for smart mouthing. Yet, I am no bully by far nor do incite situations. With this, I deeply regret my actions.
I will delete my post on this thread as it is a reminder of things not to remember.
Ash,
Victor on 05/25/2006 18:31:20
hey ash, u around? if so, then am online on yahoo and msn.. care to chat for a while, yahoo id is victorginger@yahoo.com and msn is victorexports@hotmail.com
breakneck21 on 05/25/2006 19:05:17
ok, I bought 2 amps for resale purposes. I know that 2 amps (of the same kind) at 4 ohm is pretty much the same as 1 at 2 ohm, in wattage. I have no other connections to my hu besides the sub pre-outs. I wanted it fixed so I can sell it, but since you said you think the board is fried, I think I'll just take it apart and play with it.
I'm sorry for causing trouble.......I am now taking suggestions for an amp that will run both of the l5s.....
I don't like jbl because of a past experience, but looking back on it, maybe I should try again.....I know more than I did then and it could have been an operators malfunction
xplicitblitzboi on 05/25/2006 20:16:20
im running a BP600.1 and a friend of mine is running a 1200.1
i have owned a 600.1 in the past and had no problems.
it was one of the first amps that i've been completely happy with, what kind of problems did you have with it?
the 1200.1 is a beasty amp. you want some nice reliable power for as cheap as you can get that is the amp to go with. i've seen them go on ebay for under 200 dollars before.
my email is tnccb_110@yahoo.com
Replies (10)
breakneck21 on 05/24/2006 19:57:37
oh, for clarification- the 15's and amps all together were $500
ttocs on 05/25/2006 00:24:58
I don't think I have ever seen anyone throw any attitude on here before, no reason to start now. Kiss and make up er get over it..
Is it lighting up in protection with the subs disconnected?
breakneck21 on 05/25/2006 00:29:07
yes it is. power only and it is lit up protection.
by the way ash, I don't hold grudges, nothing is worth giving a 3rd thought to in my opinion. I am sorry if it seemed like I was being rude with you in the first e-mail, that wasn't my intention. I also apologize for goin off, but you can only imagine why with my intelligence insulted.
xplicitblitzboi on 05/25/2006 03:10:14
"I wouldn't go with jbl even if I were trying to push them to the limit"
why?
Victor on 05/25/2006 03:21:08
Well,
Our here at CK, we prefer to let just a few golds or members handle one post, so that they can follow the lead, do some indepth finding, and follow up on the developments, it is not possible for all to reply on all posts..
Thats why we usually prefer not to interfere on a post thats running smoothly. But here i see a lot of bumps...... Well just to tell you, ASH and SCOTT are respected golds out here, ASH knows his job pretty well, he has very good amount of knowledge and definitely knows the basics of Car audio very well.
Loosing him on this post was something u wud not have wished if u really wanted to get ammended your short falls and get a good sounding sub-system.
He was right when he said that you made a wrong choice buying the subs and amps.. reasons....read the list below..
1 - Audiobahn is not as good as soooo many other amp manufacturers in the market. Over rated amps, not that clean and stable at lower impedances. Basically theier looks make it a piece of Audio Jewellery.
2 - Each amp is 400wrms@4ohms and 800wrms@2ohms. While each sub is 750wrms and 2ohm DVC. now here comes the catch ASH was refering to in his very first reply but you did not listen to him and held on to your own guns.. follows the explanation
now if you use 1 amp and 1 sub .. you can wire the sub for a total of either 4ohms or 1 ohm load.. means that your amp is only giving u 400wrms and the sub is 750wrms. which i guess u can see is not a good match.
if you use 1 amp and 2 subs .. you can wire the subs for a net load of 2 ohms or 8 ohms or 0.5 ohms, you amp is not 0.5 ohms stable and at 8 ohms it will cut down a lot of power, so u obviously wire it for a net 2 ohm load. that means your amp gives 800wrms@ 2 ohms, ie. 400wrms to each sub.. again the same condition not a good match... agree??
if you use 2 amps and 2 subs, again the same condition 400wrms to each sub not a good match...
now coming to the setup u had made.. 1sub and 2 amps.. first thing i dont see anywhere on the manufacturers data sheet that these are strappable. second these are class A/B monoblocks.. so not as efficient as the class D , so they are drawing more current to produce same amount of power compared to a class D. each of these amps have 30+30Amp fuses that is total of 60 amperes per amp, that makes it a total current draw of 120ampere at full potential + anyother 2 or 4 channel amp u might be runnig ( which u have not mentioned here , incomplete info), + your head unit, + AC and other car electricals would add atleast another 50-80 amperes, almost a 200amp draw at full potential when it of the system and car electricals... this is a very heavy load on your electricals and you will never be able to run them at their best without giving them enough current and for that you would have to spend another $500 on an alternator , a big 3 and a battery upgrade.
now looking at the way you have wired the amps and the sub ( not to mention the other sub must be lying in your garage , they why did u buy it?? , anyways thats your choice)...
these amps are non strappable as far as i see it, what you would have done is wire each coil to each amp.. is it? if that then you are putting your sub at a great risk, because if you do not set exactly identical gains on each amp then you are about to blow one of the voice coils in no time.. That is not a good thing either.. and more importantly, each amp gives 800wrms @ 2 ohms, now the sub is 750wrms meaning each voice coil is 325wrms, damn.. you are giving 800wrms to a voice coil rated at 325wrms.. ask any one on this site or for that matter anysite if that is a good match.. i dunno how ur sub survived but i guess moreover you have not provided authenticated and sufficient info.
And now your amp goes wrong, dunno how u have exactly wired them but you didnt even bother to mention all the details in a understandable manner.
It seems very obvious that we are here to help but you are holding onto your guns and dont seem to like the help we are giving..
This is a free help site and we have helped hundreds of people with their car audio systems. The combined experience of the members out here is immense. People who come here leave all their atitude behind and develop a patient ear to listen and learn. Accept their short falls and we help them ammend it, help them save money and help them get best results from their systems..
We are doing all this for free cause it a passion for all of us.. There lies no vested interest in helping you, so i guess you should know that whatever we advice you is definitely for your own good.
Anyways, i hope you understand something , but no more flames from either side or i delete this post..
Victor...
P.S : I would suggest you skip this post now and make a brand new post with a well presented layout , proper details, and sufficient details , including, your ful setup, wiring details, specs of everything, and the problem , and how you wanna go ahead with it. then we should be able to provide you real good help.
And dont worry we never develop a prejudicial impression about anyone here on CK, so you are most welcome here to help and be helped.. COFFEE
swez on 05/25/2006 08:03:06
The amp that goes into protect has a damaged PC board. Would need to send it out for repairs. Probably fried the power supply or amplifier circuits. May not be worth repairing???
In all, this combination of subs and amps are doomed to under-perform. Not a good fit, no matter what the price was. It seems that is clear to all responders and the poster now.
From what I see now, your fall back position is a strong 2 ohm stable, Class D amp that can deliver a solid 1500 watts RMS @ 2 ohm, to power these subs. (subs wired series/parallel = 2 ohms)
FYI: We don't do flame wars at CK. That's what makes this site very unique from many other forums out there. Basically, when one jumps on our guys, expect a "raft of correction" from other CK members.
OK, pressing onward, see if you can recoup some losses by selling/trading the working A8000T. Then, look for a 2 ohm stable MONO amp that can deliver the power needed for these subs.
Good luck and no more ruckus please, or the entire post will be deleated.
Thanks for your full cooperation,
Swez
Ash on 05/25/2006 18:14:51
I apologize for my behavior, as I strive to get along with everyone despite my quick temper. I do admit to having short patience for smart mouthing. Yet, I am no bully by far nor do incite situations. With this, I deeply regret my actions.
I will delete my post on this thread as it is a reminder of things not to remember.
Ash,
Victor on 05/25/2006 18:31:20
hey ash, u around? if so, then am online on yahoo and msn.. care to chat for a while, yahoo id is victorginger@yahoo.com and msn is victorexports@hotmail.com
breakneck21 on 05/25/2006 19:05:17
ok, I bought 2 amps for resale purposes. I know that 2 amps (of the same kind) at 4 ohm is pretty much the same as 1 at 2 ohm, in wattage. I have no other connections to my hu besides the sub pre-outs. I wanted it fixed so I can sell it, but since you said you think the board is fried, I think I'll just take it apart and play with it.
I'm sorry for causing trouble.......I am now taking suggestions for an amp that will run both of the l5s.....
I don't like jbl because of a past experience, but looking back on it, maybe I should try again.....I know more than I did then and it could have been an operators malfunction
xplicitblitzboi on 05/25/2006 20:16:20
im running a BP600.1 and a friend of mine is running a 1200.1
i have owned a 600.1 in the past and had no problems.
it was one of the first amps that i've been completely happy with, what kind of problems did you have with it?
the 1200.1 is a beasty amp. you want some nice reliable power for as cheap as you can get that is the amp to go with. i've seen them go on ebay for under 200 dollars before.
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