How important is a Divider on a subwoofer box. I have a box without a divider with 2 MTX Thunder 6000 15"s. Its about 3.0 cubic feet total.
I am considering redoing my box. I want to make 2 seperate boxes so I can get more cubic feet by putting them in my trunk one by one as opposed to one huge odd shaped object. Does this make sense?
Replies (8)
Ash on 04/17/2006 06:00:47
Yes and no. This topic has always been debated. Divider or no divider. I prefer them for no two subs are just alike. If one is just a little more stronger, then the pressure is exerted on the weaker one. How far this goes and does it hinder performance? Some companies like JL often don't use them in their designs. So there you go. Did you see a problem without running one?
If you do put one in it will actually require more room, for they will take up airspace that you will have to make up for.
MrBrownstone on 04/17/2006 18:52:59
When you use 2 speakers in the same airspace, they meld their properties. Usually, both speakers (same mfr, same lot, etc) are very close in properties, so it's not a problem using them that way.
Just remember if one speaker blows, the other speaker assumes the entire of the whole box. If you run them in series, you'll eliminate the possibility of one speaker continuing to play after the other one blows.
About 15 years ago, JL came up witha design that used 3-12 ohm speakers in this configuration. No problems with them for over a decade, so it's really not about common chambers.
if you do put 2 (or 3) woofers in the same common chamber, you'lll likely want bracing in between to prevent flexing.
Black_Rob on 04/17/2006 21:34:14
How about making 2 completely seperate boxes. If they were the same dimensions, same subs, so forth, then would that matter. Its kinda hard to explain what im trying to say, but basically I could make two identical boxes that werent attached. That way, I could make them much bigger, and be able to maneuver them into the trunk one by one. Wouldnt that be the same as having One large box with a divider?
swez on 04/18/2006 00:16:14
In this case, that might be your best option. I would highly recommend that if you cannot manage a single large enclosure.
Frankly, these subs are not one of the best products ever made by MTX. They can go low in a larger box, but power handling begins to erode as the enclosure gets bigger. The cones get sloppy at high SPL levels in the larger box designs. This sub series was pretty much a flop for MTX.
If you invest in a larger amp now, just plan on looking for some high performace 12's later. Here, the DVC's are most handy, more power handling and most newer subs are designed to work very well in much smaller boxes.
Have a look at the Alpine SWR-1222D/1242D. This sub can take 500 watts RMS, ~ 1.0cf sealed and costs under $120.00/ea.
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?dp=E2F2224222E6521253E3F363C3B357E373637323236313&stk_code=alpswr1222d&svbname=16&CA=Y
Pics: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14955
Swez
PS A single 12 is possible here. Use the SWR-1242D for a net 2 ohm load. If you want a pair of 12's, go for the 1222D's. That also nets 2 ohms when wired series/parallel.
lessismorespl on 04/19/2006 11:38:50
When running to like subs, or subs very similiar in specs, I have always run them w/out a divider. As Mr. B states, if one blows then the airspace is now doubled for one sub, however, I have found it is much more efficient to run them w/out a divider, even for ported/vented enclsoures.
Things to think about running no divider:
1. less space in trunk and more airspace.
2. in ported enclosures you only need one port, again, more space for a bigger airspace enclosure.
Most higher end subs show enclosures w/out dividers in their specs design, it maximizes the efficiency of the sub. As Mr. B stated JL and MTX both ran enclsoures w/out dividers and have had no problems.
less
swez on 04/19/2006 15:15:10
On the flip side of Mr. B and Less's comments, if you have long panels to deal with, the divider board helps brace these panels and reinforce the panels as well. No flexing is the main benefit here.
However, in the spririt of collaberation, one can always cut out a pass through hole too. If the divider board is say 18" H, and 20" D, a 12" x 12" hole would be fine and still provice plenty of internal bracing.
Just my 2 cents,
Swez
lessismorespl on 04/20/2006 10:25:49
Yes, swez, you can cut a hole leaving about 1"-1 1/2" of the divider to brace the enclsoure, which is what I do whenever I build an enclosure. Another way to lower flex is to completely brace the enclosure using 1 by 1 strips on all angles and criss cross the top and bottom, sand them so they are rounded and then seal them in good w/ liquid nails and sand it all smooth, a little extra work, but the results are well worth it in my book.
less
swez on 04/21/2006 10:51:16
Agreed! Thanks for the tip and good to see ya back at CK.
Swez
I am considering redoing my box. I want to make 2 seperate boxes so I can get more cubic feet by putting them in my trunk one by one as opposed to one huge odd shaped object. Does this make sense?
Replies (8)
Ash on 04/17/2006 06:00:47
Yes and no. This topic has always been debated. Divider or no divider. I prefer them for no two subs are just alike. If one is just a little more stronger, then the pressure is exerted on the weaker one. How far this goes and does it hinder performance? Some companies like JL often don't use them in their designs. So there you go. Did you see a problem without running one?
If you do put one in it will actually require more room, for they will take up airspace that you will have to make up for.
MrBrownstone on 04/17/2006 18:52:59
When you use 2 speakers in the same airspace, they meld their properties. Usually, both speakers (same mfr, same lot, etc) are very close in properties, so it's not a problem using them that way.
Just remember if one speaker blows, the other speaker assumes the entire of the whole box. If you run them in series, you'll eliminate the possibility of one speaker continuing to play after the other one blows.
About 15 years ago, JL came up witha design that used 3-12 ohm speakers in this configuration. No problems with them for over a decade, so it's really not about common chambers.
if you do put 2 (or 3) woofers in the same common chamber, you'lll likely want bracing in between to prevent flexing.
Black_Rob on 04/17/2006 21:34:14
How about making 2 completely seperate boxes. If they were the same dimensions, same subs, so forth, then would that matter. Its kinda hard to explain what im trying to say, but basically I could make two identical boxes that werent attached. That way, I could make them much bigger, and be able to maneuver them into the trunk one by one. Wouldnt that be the same as having One large box with a divider?
swez on 04/18/2006 00:16:14
In this case, that might be your best option. I would highly recommend that if you cannot manage a single large enclosure.
Frankly, these subs are not one of the best products ever made by MTX. They can go low in a larger box, but power handling begins to erode as the enclosure gets bigger. The cones get sloppy at high SPL levels in the larger box designs. This sub series was pretty much a flop for MTX.
If you invest in a larger amp now, just plan on looking for some high performace 12's later. Here, the DVC's are most handy, more power handling and most newer subs are designed to work very well in much smaller boxes.
Have a look at the Alpine SWR-1222D/1242D. This sub can take 500 watts RMS, ~ 1.0cf sealed and costs under $120.00/ea.
http://www.etronics.com/product.asp?dp=E2F2224222E6521253E3F363C3B357E373637323236313&stk_code=alpswr1222d&svbname=16&CA=Y
Pics: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14955
Swez
PS A single 12 is possible here. Use the SWR-1242D for a net 2 ohm load. If you want a pair of 12's, go for the 1222D's. That also nets 2 ohms when wired series/parallel.
lessismorespl on 04/19/2006 11:38:50
When running to like subs, or subs very similiar in specs, I have always run them w/out a divider. As Mr. B states, if one blows then the airspace is now doubled for one sub, however, I have found it is much more efficient to run them w/out a divider, even for ported/vented enclsoures.
Things to think about running no divider:
1. less space in trunk and more airspace.
2. in ported enclosures you only need one port, again, more space for a bigger airspace enclosure.
Most higher end subs show enclosures w/out dividers in their specs design, it maximizes the efficiency of the sub. As Mr. B stated JL and MTX both ran enclsoures w/out dividers and have had no problems.
less
swez on 04/19/2006 15:15:10
On the flip side of Mr. B and Less's comments, if you have long panels to deal with, the divider board helps brace these panels and reinforce the panels as well. No flexing is the main benefit here.
However, in the spririt of collaberation, one can always cut out a pass through hole too. If the divider board is say 18" H, and 20" D, a 12" x 12" hole would be fine and still provice plenty of internal bracing.
Just my 2 cents,
Swez
lessismorespl on 04/20/2006 10:25:49
Yes, swez, you can cut a hole leaving about 1"-1 1/2" of the divider to brace the enclsoure, which is what I do whenever I build an enclosure. Another way to lower flex is to completely brace the enclosure using 1 by 1 strips on all angles and criss cross the top and bottom, sand them so they are rounded and then seal them in good w/ liquid nails and sand it all smooth, a little extra work, but the results are well worth it in my book.
less
swez on 04/21/2006 10:51:16
Agreed! Thanks for the tip and good to see ya back at CK.
Swez
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