How hard is it to repair a terminal plate?
There is a pair of ALPINE TYPE-R SPR-57LP 5x7-inch 2-WAY on Ebay for .99 cents. The seller says, "easily repairable."
Replies (6)
lewis on 04/15/2006 00:04:39
ask them for a picture of the damage...
i wouldnt expect it to be that hard (maybe some flat insulators and rivets) but you never know until you actually see whats wrong with it.
Blue_Oval on 04/15/2006 00:10:36
They have a picture but it doesn't show the damaged plate. It just says it "broken." The other speaker is fine in the set.
Would it work right even after the repair?
swez on 04/15/2006 00:21:35
It really depands on the damage and how well the repairs will be. If it's that easy to repair, why doesn't he fix it, test it and sell it as a repaired unit.
A clear picture of the damage is what is needed to determine how 'fixable' this issue is. Frankly, I'd pass on this one as it is really not the optimal size for your vehicle anyway.
For your front speakers, a pair of Componet speakers (rounds) are a 1st choice option. For the rear speakers, Coaxials (6x8's) are a low cost option if you want full range back there and decent MB performance.
Swez
lewis on 04/15/2006 00:23:23
ask them for a picture of the damaged terminal just to see if it can be repaired...
if it is just the terminal then there shouldnt be any problems after its fixed.
if its the voice coil wire broken from the terminal its very hard to get that to stay back on. you would have to solder it without heating the wire so much that it melts the the cone (where it goes through to connect to the voice coil). plus you have to make sure that no solder moves through the wire (it will stiffen the wire and cause it to break when the speaker is used)
*edit
swez got his post in right before me (his idea is probly the better choice)
Blue_Oval on 04/15/2006 09:37:04
Just curious how hard it was to fix something like that. I've thrown away speakers with broken terminal plates. The thought never crossed my mind that it could have been repaired, much less sold on Ebay. Sheesh.
I have a wheelbarrow with one handle still attached. ;-)
T
swez on 04/15/2006 11:05:47
If the wires to voice coil are still intact, it may be as simple as:
1. Unsoldering the lead wires
2. Drill out the old plate
3. Make a new plate with FR-4 PC Board material
4. Drill new holes for solderable grommets (crimpable eye-holes)
5. Pop rivet the new plate back in place
6. Solder speaker leads into grommets
7. Attach speaker wires and mark polarity
8. Make sure there is adequate slack in speaker lead wires to allow full cone movement.
That's pretty much what I would do, if I have a small boat load to repair.
Swez
There is a pair of ALPINE TYPE-R SPR-57LP 5x7-inch 2-WAY on Ebay for .99 cents. The seller says, "easily repairable."
Replies (6)
lewis on 04/15/2006 00:04:39
ask them for a picture of the damage...
i wouldnt expect it to be that hard (maybe some flat insulators and rivets) but you never know until you actually see whats wrong with it.
Blue_Oval on 04/15/2006 00:10:36
They have a picture but it doesn't show the damaged plate. It just says it "broken." The other speaker is fine in the set.
Would it work right even after the repair?
swez on 04/15/2006 00:21:35
It really depands on the damage and how well the repairs will be. If it's that easy to repair, why doesn't he fix it, test it and sell it as a repaired unit.
A clear picture of the damage is what is needed to determine how 'fixable' this issue is. Frankly, I'd pass on this one as it is really not the optimal size for your vehicle anyway.
For your front speakers, a pair of Componet speakers (rounds) are a 1st choice option. For the rear speakers, Coaxials (6x8's) are a low cost option if you want full range back there and decent MB performance.
Swez
lewis on 04/15/2006 00:23:23
ask them for a picture of the damaged terminal just to see if it can be repaired...
if it is just the terminal then there shouldnt be any problems after its fixed.
if its the voice coil wire broken from the terminal its very hard to get that to stay back on. you would have to solder it without heating the wire so much that it melts the the cone (where it goes through to connect to the voice coil). plus you have to make sure that no solder moves through the wire (it will stiffen the wire and cause it to break when the speaker is used)
*edit
swez got his post in right before me (his idea is probly the better choice)
Blue_Oval on 04/15/2006 09:37:04
Just curious how hard it was to fix something like that. I've thrown away speakers with broken terminal plates. The thought never crossed my mind that it could have been repaired, much less sold on Ebay. Sheesh.
I have a wheelbarrow with one handle still attached. ;-)
T
swez on 04/15/2006 11:05:47
If the wires to voice coil are still intact, it may be as simple as:
1. Unsoldering the lead wires
2. Drill out the old plate
3. Make a new plate with FR-4 PC Board material
4. Drill new holes for solderable grommets (crimpable eye-holes)
5. Pop rivet the new plate back in place
6. Solder speaker leads into grommets
7. Attach speaker wires and mark polarity
8. Make sure there is adequate slack in speaker lead wires to allow full cone movement.
That's pretty much what I would do, if I have a small boat load to repair.
Swez
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