Hey guys,
05 Dodge Magnum SE will be my new ride as soon as my truck sells and I would like to plan my next project. My goal is to achieve an extreme level of sound quality. I would like to have all equipment choosen and a written wiring diagram to ease the challenge of the install.
I currently have a set of a/d/s/346cs 6.5" comps(125w rms), a JL 300/2 to power them and an Alpine 9851 HU. I will be purchasing 1-JL12W7 and a JL 1000/1 to push it. I plan on building or purchasing a sealed rear firing enclosure of 1.75cf to house the sub.
The first step will consist of removing all panels and sound dampening of entire interior with RAAMmat. Next, HU, all wiring, and comps installed in front doors.
Do you guys think I will need another moderate 2 channel amp to power a set of rear door speakers, or do you think using my HU for rear fill will do the trick? I am antisipating epic bass responce from the 12W7 in this vehicle and would like to have enough highs for proper imaging.
After I work out speaker needs I will address the electrical system. I do have an Optima D34/78 and will do engine comp wires with 2awg power wire. Stock alternator is 140amperes(pretty modest!)
I was suprised to find the stock battery mounted in the trunk of this vehicle. Has anybody done any work on this model before? All input and advice with this project is greatly appreciated. I am confident with your help I can pull this off. I don't have a great deal of install experience, but I have read every car audio book, magazine, manuals and anything else I can get my hands on. I have logged in many hours of trouble shooting elecrtical system issues, amp voltage drops and system weaking with the help of the very knowlegeable Swez. I will certainly be generous with donations this month.
Demetrios
I
Replies (7)
lewis on 04/12/2006 00:04:29
just make sure if you build the box yourself (actually even if you buy one) that the front baffle on the box is minimum 1" thick ( i would double up on 3/4 mdf). the recommended sealed enclosure for this sub is 1.375 cu ft or 1.75 for ported (maybe you have a reason for 1.75 sealed that i dont know)
as for the rear speakers i would just use the head unit for rear fill with some efficient speakers (i just use stock rears because they produce mostly midbass sounds and they sound pretty good off deck power)
overall this seems to be a well thought out and planned install (always good) seems like it will sound really good too.
good luck
demetman on 04/12/2006 00:39:59
Lewis,
1.375 is in fact the factory reccomended sealed enclosure. I was checking out sub specs at onlinecarstereo.com and they listed sealed specs incorrect. Good stuff on JL's website. They actually give the box dimentions and show a graph of optimum amp power for all there subs. What's your take on a 12W7 in a prowedge box. I was sold on that system until a JL certifird tech(Tweeter) insisted on custom sealed enclosures with a 1.5" front bafffle for the ultimate W7 performance. I'll do whatever it takes to net peak results from the sub. Thanks
swez on 04/12/2006 08:20:30
The smaller sealed box is best for tight, crisp bass. When you go larger than specified, can get deeper lows, but it also will strain the 12W7 pretty hard if you push full power from that amp.
ProWedge is a good option as it's been designed and well tested by JL. This is one heavy sub. The baffle panel to hold it should be a minimum of 1.0" thick.
If you elect to build your own enclosure, the internal airspace that JL recommends is the key. You can adjust H,W & D dimensions to fit, but try to stay withing the W7 specs +/- 5% and don't forget to consider displacement for that sub.
Swez
demetman on 04/12/2006 09:05:35
Guys,
I am looking at a pair of CDT CL-5EX coaxials 60watts rms sensitivity 91dB for the rear doors. This might sound crazy, can I combine front and rear channel wires from head unit to power these speakers? If not should I stick with something like Alpine SPR-134A 5.25" 35watt rms 2 way speakers(sensitivity 91dB)?
I am also considering upgrading HU from Alpine 9851 to Kenwood Excelon KDC-X990. Do you guys think this would be a MAJOR upgrade to overall sound quality or money not well spent. This HU looks insane!!! 9851 is only 6months old and I can sell it with my truck.
Do you guys reccomend I buy all amp wiring seperate(power, ground, remote) in small quantities(no amp kit) due to the fact that the battery is mounted in the trunk? Is 2awg power wire appropriate guage for this install.(1000/1 and 300/2)
Thanks fo your help.
Demetrios
swez on 04/12/2006 12:25:42
How about the JL 300/4 to power fronts and rears as well. Here you have filtering and volume control on the front and rear stage speakers.
What is the stock speaker size for the rear channel speakers?
As for wiring and hardware, take a look at:
www.knukonceptz.com
They have many options in pre-packaged kits or separates. You'll need a Distribution block for #2 input and dual #4 outs. They also carry all the wiring needed and very high quality RCA's too. You may want to look at 1/0 gage power line if your BAT is close to the amps. A few feets of that will handle most any amp choices you come up with.
HU, if you like what you have now, keep it. If you think the Kenwwod is more your style, it might be good to re-install your stock HU before sold and toss in some inexpesive Pioneer speakers. You can always sell, trade or gift the Alpine to someone later. You won't get much return on this HU if you leave it in the truck for sale.
Comments?
Swez
lewis on 04/12/2006 19:59:40
no you cant bridge the hu
if you already have the 300/2 and component set go ahead and try running the factory rear speakers of the hu. if you dont like the sound after some tuning then go listen to others in the store and keep their specs in mind. if you dont have an amp yet then swez's idea on the 300/4 is another way you could go.
for the sub box my personal preference would be the jl H.O. wedge (if i remember correctly its very large though) the prowedge should be very good too ( after all it was designed by jl for this exact sub). if you decide to build your own then definitely double up on 3/4 mdf for the baffle (this would total 1.5") and make sure to brace it very well.
for wiring since the battery is in the trunk 2awg would work but i would go with 0/1 guage wire (not really a reason not to for a short run like that). you could probly buy short wire like that for less than the kit. for rca's im probly not the best person to ask ( i try to buy the best i can get on everything even though most people say it dont make a difference). if you run the 300/2 then i would use just 1 set of 4 channel rca's from the deck then split them in the trunk with some 3 ft rca's or something like that (this is the way i did it on my car) or just go ahead and get some 6 channel rca's. these are just suggestions you can really do whatever you want here (i just dont like trying to run 3 sets of rca's through the length of the car)
for your head unit its all about personal preference. you can use what you have or upgrade. just make sure you get all the tuning options you will want ( it might look good but if it doesnt sound good you wont be happy)
hope this helps
swez on 04/12/2006 21:16:57
Lewis... I am glad you are here bud! It's nice to have a new face on the board to help out others too. I agree with all your suggestions and JL amps have pass through RCA outs as well. This allows for minimal RCA wiring from the HU to all amp channels. That's one of the reason I like the JL options.
Again, look at: www.knukonceptz.com for wiring and misc hardware needs. They make some very good products, very reasonable prices and everyone I have lead to that source has been well pleased with quality, price and performance.
Swez
05 Dodge Magnum SE will be my new ride as soon as my truck sells and I would like to plan my next project. My goal is to achieve an extreme level of sound quality. I would like to have all equipment choosen and a written wiring diagram to ease the challenge of the install.
I currently have a set of a/d/s/346cs 6.5" comps(125w rms), a JL 300/2 to power them and an Alpine 9851 HU. I will be purchasing 1-JL12W7 and a JL 1000/1 to push it. I plan on building or purchasing a sealed rear firing enclosure of 1.75cf to house the sub.
The first step will consist of removing all panels and sound dampening of entire interior with RAAMmat. Next, HU, all wiring, and comps installed in front doors.
Do you guys think I will need another moderate 2 channel amp to power a set of rear door speakers, or do you think using my HU for rear fill will do the trick? I am antisipating epic bass responce from the 12W7 in this vehicle and would like to have enough highs for proper imaging.
After I work out speaker needs I will address the electrical system. I do have an Optima D34/78 and will do engine comp wires with 2awg power wire. Stock alternator is 140amperes(pretty modest!)
I was suprised to find the stock battery mounted in the trunk of this vehicle. Has anybody done any work on this model before? All input and advice with this project is greatly appreciated. I am confident with your help I can pull this off. I don't have a great deal of install experience, but I have read every car audio book, magazine, manuals and anything else I can get my hands on. I have logged in many hours of trouble shooting elecrtical system issues, amp voltage drops and system weaking with the help of the very knowlegeable Swez. I will certainly be generous with donations this month.
Demetrios
I
Replies (7)
lewis on 04/12/2006 00:04:29
just make sure if you build the box yourself (actually even if you buy one) that the front baffle on the box is minimum 1" thick ( i would double up on 3/4 mdf). the recommended sealed enclosure for this sub is 1.375 cu ft or 1.75 for ported (maybe you have a reason for 1.75 sealed that i dont know)
as for the rear speakers i would just use the head unit for rear fill with some efficient speakers (i just use stock rears because they produce mostly midbass sounds and they sound pretty good off deck power)
overall this seems to be a well thought out and planned install (always good) seems like it will sound really good too.
good luck
demetman on 04/12/2006 00:39:59
Lewis,
1.375 is in fact the factory reccomended sealed enclosure. I was checking out sub specs at onlinecarstereo.com and they listed sealed specs incorrect. Good stuff on JL's website. They actually give the box dimentions and show a graph of optimum amp power for all there subs. What's your take on a 12W7 in a prowedge box. I was sold on that system until a JL certifird tech(Tweeter) insisted on custom sealed enclosures with a 1.5" front bafffle for the ultimate W7 performance. I'll do whatever it takes to net peak results from the sub. Thanks
swez on 04/12/2006 08:20:30
The smaller sealed box is best for tight, crisp bass. When you go larger than specified, can get deeper lows, but it also will strain the 12W7 pretty hard if you push full power from that amp.
ProWedge is a good option as it's been designed and well tested by JL. This is one heavy sub. The baffle panel to hold it should be a minimum of 1.0" thick.
If you elect to build your own enclosure, the internal airspace that JL recommends is the key. You can adjust H,W & D dimensions to fit, but try to stay withing the W7 specs +/- 5% and don't forget to consider displacement for that sub.
Swez
demetman on 04/12/2006 09:05:35
Guys,
I am looking at a pair of CDT CL-5EX coaxials 60watts rms sensitivity 91dB for the rear doors. This might sound crazy, can I combine front and rear channel wires from head unit to power these speakers? If not should I stick with something like Alpine SPR-134A 5.25" 35watt rms 2 way speakers(sensitivity 91dB)?
I am also considering upgrading HU from Alpine 9851 to Kenwood Excelon KDC-X990. Do you guys think this would be a MAJOR upgrade to overall sound quality or money not well spent. This HU looks insane!!! 9851 is only 6months old and I can sell it with my truck.
Do you guys reccomend I buy all amp wiring seperate(power, ground, remote) in small quantities(no amp kit) due to the fact that the battery is mounted in the trunk? Is 2awg power wire appropriate guage for this install.(1000/1 and 300/2)
Thanks fo your help.
Demetrios
swez on 04/12/2006 12:25:42
How about the JL 300/4 to power fronts and rears as well. Here you have filtering and volume control on the front and rear stage speakers.
What is the stock speaker size for the rear channel speakers?
As for wiring and hardware, take a look at:
www.knukonceptz.com
They have many options in pre-packaged kits or separates. You'll need a Distribution block for #2 input and dual #4 outs. They also carry all the wiring needed and very high quality RCA's too. You may want to look at 1/0 gage power line if your BAT is close to the amps. A few feets of that will handle most any amp choices you come up with.
HU, if you like what you have now, keep it. If you think the Kenwwod is more your style, it might be good to re-install your stock HU before sold and toss in some inexpesive Pioneer speakers. You can always sell, trade or gift the Alpine to someone later. You won't get much return on this HU if you leave it in the truck for sale.
Comments?
Swez
lewis on 04/12/2006 19:59:40
no you cant bridge the hu
if you already have the 300/2 and component set go ahead and try running the factory rear speakers of the hu. if you dont like the sound after some tuning then go listen to others in the store and keep their specs in mind. if you dont have an amp yet then swez's idea on the 300/4 is another way you could go.
for the sub box my personal preference would be the jl H.O. wedge (if i remember correctly its very large though) the prowedge should be very good too ( after all it was designed by jl for this exact sub). if you decide to build your own then definitely double up on 3/4 mdf for the baffle (this would total 1.5") and make sure to brace it very well.
for wiring since the battery is in the trunk 2awg would work but i would go with 0/1 guage wire (not really a reason not to for a short run like that). you could probly buy short wire like that for less than the kit. for rca's im probly not the best person to ask ( i try to buy the best i can get on everything even though most people say it dont make a difference). if you run the 300/2 then i would use just 1 set of 4 channel rca's from the deck then split them in the trunk with some 3 ft rca's or something like that (this is the way i did it on my car) or just go ahead and get some 6 channel rca's. these are just suggestions you can really do whatever you want here (i just dont like trying to run 3 sets of rca's through the length of the car)
for your head unit its all about personal preference. you can use what you have or upgrade. just make sure you get all the tuning options you will want ( it might look good but if it doesnt sound good you wont be happy)
hope this helps
swez on 04/12/2006 21:16:57
Lewis... I am glad you are here bud! It's nice to have a new face on the board to help out others too. I agree with all your suggestions and JL amps have pass through RCA outs as well. This allows for minimal RCA wiring from the HU to all amp channels. That's one of the reason I like the JL options.
Again, look at: www.knukonceptz.com for wiring and misc hardware needs. They make some very good products, very reasonable prices and everyone I have lead to that source has been well pleased with quality, price and performance.
Swez
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