I have a Volfenhag ZX-1790 2400 watt 2 channel amp, and 2 Volfenhag 1200 watt (2400 including both) DVC subs. what would the best way to wire these? i'm new to installing these, so diagrams and explinations of things would help.
Replies (10)
compvr15s on 04/10/2006 08:04:46
best advice i can give you, is run a wire from each positive voice coils together and do the same with the negative voice coils then run the postive(2 wires one from voice coil one and two from voice coil 2) wires and the negative wires directly into your wall outlet, this give the volfenhag the inital juice needed to get subwoofers working...... ok ok dont do that, i was just kidding with you....
are the subs dual 2 ohm or dual 4omh.... better yet do you have model numbers of the subs and a for the amp too, we can see how the gear matches up and give you the best wiring option available.... but i do want to let you know that volfenhag over rate thier equipment a tad bit to get the new comers to bite that shinny lil hook.... im am sure it can put out 2400 watts but how do they measure it, most cars will only run a constant 12-13.5 volts, im guessing with that input voltage you might get 400-600 watts maybe from that amp... but that does not matter here, with that amp and those subs you should expect a bit of a boom, well above stock stereo, and in a daytona u will get a lil boost from the hatchback.....
so give us some model numbers please so we can see exactly what ya got, then we aint shootin in the dark. if you cant find the numbers printed on the products somewhere, then look at some online stores that carry that brand and send us the link to the products you have... will make both our lives much easer..... welcome to Club Knowledge
Eisbrecher on 04/10/2006 14:16:12
Yeah, im sure their over-rated, i never herd of the brand untill i got them. I wen't to a local store sell-out and found the 2 subs for 60 apeice. and the amp for 100. so i spent 220. im sure they wont be too bad for that price :-) anywho, here is what amp I have
http://cgi.ebay.com/VOLFENHAG-ZX-7190-2400-WATT-2-CHANNEL-CHROME-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ9708320304QQcategoryZ18796QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and the 2 subs i have are these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5879773843&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
the only place i could find them on ebay.
swez on 04/10/2006 17:57:26
OK, this amp is greatly over-rated in power output claims. What size fuses are used in this amp? That will tell us a fairly accurate picture of what this amp can really do.
I also noted this input gain sensitivity has a very odd range. (0.1 - 1.0 volts) That means that any HU RCA line that puts out > 1.0 volts, (most are between 2.0-5.0 volts) will need an attenuator circuit. Not difficult to find, just one more thing to buy.
As for sub/amp wiring, the easiest way is to wire each subs' coils in parallel, one sub to each amp channel. We have a wiring guide on the site and it will show how to wire the subs to amp correctly.
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1dvcparallel1yl.jpg
This shows a 4+4 DVC sub, wired in parallel to a 1 channel amp. In your case, do the same thing and treat this amp as a pair of 1 channel amps, in one casing.
Got it?
Swez
Eisbrecher on 04/11/2006 09:37:34
there are 2 40's in it for fuses. the cd player i currently have is this
http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL027623&pathId=54&page=2
swez on 04/11/2006 10:39:56
That amp should net out ~350-400 watts RMS/ch @ 2 ohms.
That HU has 2.5 volt RCA line outs. A -6dB attenuator should give you about 0.6 volts and match that amp gain setting control.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=266-242
Swez
Eisbrecher on 04/11/2006 20:05:15
what exactly is a attenuator? im new to hooking subs and amps up so my vocabulary is a little small. also, what guage wire should I use? do I need a compacitor? (i dont know what it does but my friend gave me one he wasent using)
swez on 04/12/2006 08:35:37
The attenuator mentioned, is a network of precision resistors to bring your HU RCA voltage down to a usable range for that amp input section.
I also re-calculated the projected output of this amp. Lookes like a shade over 325 Wrms x 2 @ 2 ohms per channel. Not bad for the price.
Wire gage for the sub amp should be #4 wire. If you plan to add a full range amp for mid/high later, (highly recommended) use a #2 wire kit. Then purchase a Distribution block that allows for #2 gage input, and a pair of #4 gage outputs. Have a look at this one:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-12
The BC-1024 is a good option for this install and it does not require extra fuses in this model.
Swez
Eisbrecher on 04/14/2006 00:07:42
Thanks for the help, i finally got everything installed. One more question...what should the speaker wire guage be? it does bump real nice. It was hard fitting them in my car though, its a hatchback. Also, will this set-up blow either my amp or my speakers? (the bass boost and LPF setting on the HU and the amp kick out some really really low bass out of my speakers). And one more question. is it better to have the power wire hard wired to the battery or put a fusable link in it? the amp manuel says to use a fusable link with a 80amp fuse in it, ive got it hard wired and it seems to work.
compvr15s on 04/14/2006 07:45:11
put a fusable link inthere within 18-22 inches from the battery... this ensures that ur amp dont get power spikes and fry, i know id rather replace a 50 cent fuse or even a 2 dollar fuse then a couple hundred dollar amp, so its highy suggested to put a fuse in it by the batter
swez on 04/16/2006 10:01:40
Yes, a fuse is needed. If something goes wrong with the amp and no fuse to the battery, it can destroy your electrical system or cause a fire in the vehicle. Install a fuse in there ASAP.
When using subs, the LPF on the sub amp should be set between 80-100 Hz. If you have the mid/highs amped, these should have HPF filtering, set to match the sub amp settings, but passing only mids and highs to door speakers.
Swez
Replies (10)
compvr15s on 04/10/2006 08:04:46
best advice i can give you, is run a wire from each positive voice coils together and do the same with the negative voice coils then run the postive(2 wires one from voice coil one and two from voice coil 2) wires and the negative wires directly into your wall outlet, this give the volfenhag the inital juice needed to get subwoofers working...... ok ok dont do that, i was just kidding with you....
are the subs dual 2 ohm or dual 4omh.... better yet do you have model numbers of the subs and a for the amp too, we can see how the gear matches up and give you the best wiring option available.... but i do want to let you know that volfenhag over rate thier equipment a tad bit to get the new comers to bite that shinny lil hook.... im am sure it can put out 2400 watts but how do they measure it, most cars will only run a constant 12-13.5 volts, im guessing with that input voltage you might get 400-600 watts maybe from that amp... but that does not matter here, with that amp and those subs you should expect a bit of a boom, well above stock stereo, and in a daytona u will get a lil boost from the hatchback.....
so give us some model numbers please so we can see exactly what ya got, then we aint shootin in the dark. if you cant find the numbers printed on the products somewhere, then look at some online stores that carry that brand and send us the link to the products you have... will make both our lives much easer..... welcome to Club Knowledge
Eisbrecher on 04/10/2006 14:16:12
Yeah, im sure their over-rated, i never herd of the brand untill i got them. I wen't to a local store sell-out and found the 2 subs for 60 apeice. and the amp for 100. so i spent 220. im sure they wont be too bad for that price :-) anywho, here is what amp I have
http://cgi.ebay.com/VOLFENHAG-ZX-7190-2400-WATT-2-CHANNEL-CHROME-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ9708320304QQcategoryZ18796QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
and the 2 subs i have are these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5879773843&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
the only place i could find them on ebay.
swez on 04/10/2006 17:57:26
OK, this amp is greatly over-rated in power output claims. What size fuses are used in this amp? That will tell us a fairly accurate picture of what this amp can really do.
I also noted this input gain sensitivity has a very odd range. (0.1 - 1.0 volts) That means that any HU RCA line that puts out > 1.0 volts, (most are between 2.0-5.0 volts) will need an attenuator circuit. Not difficult to find, just one more thing to buy.
As for sub/amp wiring, the easiest way is to wire each subs' coils in parallel, one sub to each amp channel. We have a wiring guide on the site and it will show how to wire the subs to amp correctly.
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=1dvcparallel1yl.jpg
This shows a 4+4 DVC sub, wired in parallel to a 1 channel amp. In your case, do the same thing and treat this amp as a pair of 1 channel amps, in one casing.
Got it?
Swez
Eisbrecher on 04/11/2006 09:37:34
there are 2 40's in it for fuses. the cd player i currently have is this
http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL027623&pathId=54&page=2
swez on 04/11/2006 10:39:56
That amp should net out ~350-400 watts RMS/ch @ 2 ohms.
That HU has 2.5 volt RCA line outs. A -6dB attenuator should give you about 0.6 volts and match that amp gain setting control.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=266-242
Swez
Eisbrecher on 04/11/2006 20:05:15
what exactly is a attenuator? im new to hooking subs and amps up so my vocabulary is a little small. also, what guage wire should I use? do I need a compacitor? (i dont know what it does but my friend gave me one he wasent using)
swez on 04/12/2006 08:35:37
The attenuator mentioned, is a network of precision resistors to bring your HU RCA voltage down to a usable range for that amp input section.
I also re-calculated the projected output of this amp. Lookes like a shade over 325 Wrms x 2 @ 2 ohms per channel. Not bad for the price.
Wire gage for the sub amp should be #4 wire. If you plan to add a full range amp for mid/high later, (highly recommended) use a #2 wire kit. Then purchase a Distribution block that allows for #2 gage input, and a pair of #4 gage outputs. Have a look at this one:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-12
The BC-1024 is a good option for this install and it does not require extra fuses in this model.
Swez
Eisbrecher on 04/14/2006 00:07:42
Thanks for the help, i finally got everything installed. One more question...what should the speaker wire guage be? it does bump real nice. It was hard fitting them in my car though, its a hatchback. Also, will this set-up blow either my amp or my speakers? (the bass boost and LPF setting on the HU and the amp kick out some really really low bass out of my speakers). And one more question. is it better to have the power wire hard wired to the battery or put a fusable link in it? the amp manuel says to use a fusable link with a 80amp fuse in it, ive got it hard wired and it seems to work.
compvr15s on 04/14/2006 07:45:11
put a fusable link inthere within 18-22 inches from the battery... this ensures that ur amp dont get power spikes and fry, i know id rather replace a 50 cent fuse or even a 2 dollar fuse then a couple hundred dollar amp, so its highy suggested to put a fuse in it by the batter
swez on 04/16/2006 10:01:40
Yes, a fuse is needed. If something goes wrong with the amp and no fuse to the battery, it can destroy your electrical system or cause a fire in the vehicle. Install a fuse in there ASAP.
When using subs, the LPF on the sub amp should be set between 80-100 Hz. If you have the mid/highs amped, these should have HPF filtering, set to match the sub amp settings, but passing only mids and highs to door speakers.
Swez
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