I have 2 - MTX 12" Thunder 5500 subs. Single Voice Coil, 4ohms.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DQv9DMPP3g0/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=236T55124
I am looking at Kenwood Mono Amps, like this one ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-9102D-1700W-Mono-ClassD-Power-Amplifier-NEW_W0QQitemZ9707697145QQcategoryZ79828QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Would this be a good Sub and Amp combo. If so, how would I wire the subs to the Amp. If not, what Amp would be better? Thanks.
Rob Morren
Replies (9)
lewis on 04/5/2006 00:41:05
personally i would say that would be a really good combo but i dont have alot of experience with those brands
for wiring you would want to parallel (both sub negative leads to negative amp lead and sub positive leads to amp positive lead) for the 2 ohm load
Victor on 04/5/2006 03:05:05
Yes kenwood has come up with some really solid performers , and this one is a very good one too,
but the only issue i see here is that each sub is rated at 300wrms, and the amp puts out almost 900wrms@ 2 ohms@ 14.4 v,
Many may want to call this extra power as Head Room, but i dont see anything above 33% of rated power as head room, its purely over powering the sub.This is mostly a generalised factor, tho most of the subs reach their Xmax way below the rated power. Also the Actual power handling of a sub depends on the kind of application , ie. kind of enclosure and specs of enclosure used.
( Experienced installers would know how well to use this head room or the extra power available to get clean results, but for amateurs , over powering drivers is not advisable. )
this means that you would have to used a sealed enclosure, which is smaller then the recommended size to control the cone movement and transients , and also avoid frying the subs,
If you plan to use a ported enclosure, then you will have to keep the gains pretty low and also ensure proper application of SSF ( sub sonic filter ) to avoid unloading the sub.
Instead its better you look at another Amp, which is rated within the range of 500 to 700wrms @ 2 ohms.
there are many solid performenrs out there in the market along with kenwood, and you can get them at a good price too if u keep a close watch on e-bay sales.
Victor...
Ps. as far as wiring the 4 ohm svc subs for a total load of 2 ohms, here is how you do it,
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t33
( Look at 2 SVC Subs Parallel )
hope it helps..
Black_Rob on 04/5/2006 04:27:11
so u cant simply turn down the gain to reduce power?
Victor on 04/5/2006 05:23:52
No, This is a mistake many people in Car Audio make, Gain is not the volume setting, Gain is a different concept by itself,
Ideally the gain on the amp should be set at the voltage that equals the output of the HU RCA outs.
ie, if you have a Head unit that puts out 2 volts, then the Gains on the Amps should be set at 2v to be precise. a slight deviation + / - is acceptable , usually upto the mark of 0.25 volts. but anythign more then that will add to distortion, heating up of the amp, protection circuitry activity, harm to the speaker coils, clipped signal, etc.
Victor...
swez on 04/5/2006 08:06:34
After looking at the specs on that amp, it appears the real anticipated power output will be under 800 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. (more like 700 Wrms @ 13.5 volts input)
I think if you set the amp gain properly, this should be a good match and you'll have some extra head room to keep things very clean.
Those subs are pretty solid and should be able to take a little extra juice on deep bass hits. Use a sealed box design and you should be OK.
FYI: The price on a sub of this caliber is pretty high. If you shopped a round, I would hope you could get them for for under $125.00/ea.
Swez
PS Not to override your comments here Victor, but this amp is fused at 60A's. It's a Class D amp. It's also rated at 850 Wrms @ 2 ohms, 14.4 volts. Few vehicles can put out a steady 14.4 volts on a continous basis. So, if we de-rate to a typical 13.5 volts and used say 85% efficiency, it's more like a tad under 700 Wrms @ 2 ohms.
Black_Rob on 04/5/2006 12:27:18
The box I currently have is quite smaller than what the specs call for. It is a dual box with a divider. Each individual chamber measures about 12x12x10. The sub calls for 1.25 cubic feet per sub I believe. Is this going to blow my subs, or just take away from the quality?
swez on 04/5/2006 15:57:40
It will cut down on deep bass performance noticably. Especially frequencies below about 50 Hz.
Swez
Black_Rob on 04/5/2006 16:44:00
Would I be at risk of blowing the subs though?
swez on 04/5/2006 16:59:30
Not really, just don't over use the bass boost features on your amp or HU controls. A +6dB boost at 45 Hz., is probably safe, but don't exceed that level to get more deep bass.
The best approach might be to try what you have in mind and see if you like it. If not, a new box is not a bad option. Especially if you can build one on your own.
Swez
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DQv9DMPP3g0/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=236T55124
I am looking at Kenwood Mono Amps, like this one ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-9102D-1700W-Mono-ClassD-Power-Amplifier-NEW_W0QQitemZ9707697145QQcategoryZ79828QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Would this be a good Sub and Amp combo. If so, how would I wire the subs to the Amp. If not, what Amp would be better? Thanks.
Rob Morren
Replies (9)
lewis on 04/5/2006 00:41:05
personally i would say that would be a really good combo but i dont have alot of experience with those brands
for wiring you would want to parallel (both sub negative leads to negative amp lead and sub positive leads to amp positive lead) for the 2 ohm load
Victor on 04/5/2006 03:05:05
Yes kenwood has come up with some really solid performers , and this one is a very good one too,
but the only issue i see here is that each sub is rated at 300wrms, and the amp puts out almost 900wrms@ 2 ohms@ 14.4 v,
Many may want to call this extra power as Head Room, but i dont see anything above 33% of rated power as head room, its purely over powering the sub.This is mostly a generalised factor, tho most of the subs reach their Xmax way below the rated power. Also the Actual power handling of a sub depends on the kind of application , ie. kind of enclosure and specs of enclosure used.
( Experienced installers would know how well to use this head room or the extra power available to get clean results, but for amateurs , over powering drivers is not advisable. )
this means that you would have to used a sealed enclosure, which is smaller then the recommended size to control the cone movement and transients , and also avoid frying the subs,
If you plan to use a ported enclosure, then you will have to keep the gains pretty low and also ensure proper application of SSF ( sub sonic filter ) to avoid unloading the sub.
Instead its better you look at another Amp, which is rated within the range of 500 to 700wrms @ 2 ohms.
there are many solid performenrs out there in the market along with kenwood, and you can get them at a good price too if u keep a close watch on e-bay sales.
Victor...
Ps. as far as wiring the 4 ohm svc subs for a total load of 2 ohms, here is how you do it,
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t33
( Look at 2 SVC Subs Parallel )
hope it helps..
Black_Rob on 04/5/2006 04:27:11
so u cant simply turn down the gain to reduce power?
Victor on 04/5/2006 05:23:52
No, This is a mistake many people in Car Audio make, Gain is not the volume setting, Gain is a different concept by itself,
Ideally the gain on the amp should be set at the voltage that equals the output of the HU RCA outs.
ie, if you have a Head unit that puts out 2 volts, then the Gains on the Amps should be set at 2v to be precise. a slight deviation + / - is acceptable , usually upto the mark of 0.25 volts. but anythign more then that will add to distortion, heating up of the amp, protection circuitry activity, harm to the speaker coils, clipped signal, etc.
Victor...
swez on 04/5/2006 08:06:34
After looking at the specs on that amp, it appears the real anticipated power output will be under 800 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. (more like 700 Wrms @ 13.5 volts input)
I think if you set the amp gain properly, this should be a good match and you'll have some extra head room to keep things very clean.
Those subs are pretty solid and should be able to take a little extra juice on deep bass hits. Use a sealed box design and you should be OK.
FYI: The price on a sub of this caliber is pretty high. If you shopped a round, I would hope you could get them for for under $125.00/ea.
Swez
PS Not to override your comments here Victor, but this amp is fused at 60A's. It's a Class D amp. It's also rated at 850 Wrms @ 2 ohms, 14.4 volts. Few vehicles can put out a steady 14.4 volts on a continous basis. So, if we de-rate to a typical 13.5 volts and used say 85% efficiency, it's more like a tad under 700 Wrms @ 2 ohms.
Black_Rob on 04/5/2006 12:27:18
The box I currently have is quite smaller than what the specs call for. It is a dual box with a divider. Each individual chamber measures about 12x12x10. The sub calls for 1.25 cubic feet per sub I believe. Is this going to blow my subs, or just take away from the quality?
swez on 04/5/2006 15:57:40
It will cut down on deep bass performance noticably. Especially frequencies below about 50 Hz.
Swez
Black_Rob on 04/5/2006 16:44:00
Would I be at risk of blowing the subs though?
swez on 04/5/2006 16:59:30
Not really, just don't over use the bass boost features on your amp or HU controls. A +6dB boost at 45 Hz., is probably safe, but don't exceed that level to get more deep bass.
The best approach might be to try what you have in mind and see if you like it. If not, a new box is not a bad option. Especially if you can build one on your own.
Swez
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