Ok here's what's goin on. I'm buying a JL Audio system. If you know of or have some of the following and are willing to sell for a reasonable price get at me. I am looking for a JL 12w7, e4300 amp, 1000/1 JL audio slash amp, TR690-TXi speakers, TR650-CXi speakers. I live in L.A. and I'm looking for a place to instal as well. If you could help thanks.
Replies (14)
demetman on 04/3/2006 23:18:02
You may want to hold up on purchasing an e class amp. I was talking to a JL certified tech a couple days ago and JL is launching a new series of amps to replace e series. Apparently new amps will be super efficient and will perform more like D class amps.
swez on 04/4/2006 07:54:35
Dem should know. He's running the 500/1 and a 300/2 now. These are great amps, but power demands are high for these amps and electrical upgrades will be needed if you go with the 1000/1. That amp alone, can pull close to 80A at full power.
NOTE: Your car needs about 40-50A of current to run the main systems in your car. When adding high powered amplifiers, you may need to do some major electrical upgrades to meet the demands of your new audio gear.
Swez
lessismorespl on 04/4/2006 10:37:21
Actually Swez, not to jump back on here after months of hiding, the Slash series amps possess a regulated power supply, the 500/1 as well as the 1000/1, have been proven in many test to have the rated output power w/ an input as low as 10 volts @ 4ohm impedence. They are very efficient amps, and this regulated power supply, as well as some other features, recieved an extension(5 yrs I believe) on the patents.
As for buying on the streets, online, or any other place that is not authorized, JL Audio has the strictest guidelines for such activity. They have been known to drop dealers for online sales, will not cover anything under warranty that was not sold by an authorized dealer. They have one of the most intricate coding systems in car audio, there are basically 4 serials on any given amp, 2 of which are so hidden you would damage the amp's board trying to find or alter them, there subs and speakers also have hidden serials. JL has gone to extremes to make sure their products only sold by authorized dealers, and the extremely small percentage of products the do sneak through cracks are never covered by them, and they trace products to the distributor when they recieve an amp or sub that was not purchased through an authorized dealer.
As for the e Series amps, they have been developing an upgraded version of these amps for several years now, it is nice to see they will be releasing them soon. Not that the e Series are bad amps, but an upgrade will definately be a great improvement.
A note of trivia, the designer of the Slash Series amps is the same person that developed the old Precision Power Art Series, which are still hailed by Audiophiles as one of the most efficient amps ever produced, and is still considered one of the greatest SQ amps ever made.
less
demetman on 04/4/2006 15:05:33
less,
What's your opinion as a consumer on purchasing JL products online? As you probrably know, many JL products are available through a wide variety of online distributers. The bigger ones will offer a warrenty solely through themselves only(sonicelectronics,onlinecarstereo etc.) One could save a considerable amount of money buying through these sources. I have purchased JL products online saving me about $150.00 per product(maybe thats why my amps are shutting down Swez, lol)
I am lloking for advise on this topic for a system I am putting together for a new vehicle coming my way soon. I will be doing the install myself so the extended warrenty from a JL dealer would be void anyway. I do understand If you feel uncomfortable commenting on this matter. I would imagine many CK "rookies" like myself are wondering the same. Thanks.
swez on 04/4/2006 15:48:15
Less makes a very good point and as he said, JL is very tough on purchases from non-authorized dealers. He should know. Less has been in the biz a long time and has a strong, hands-on background on most products out there to date.
Dem, I don't think your amps are cutting out due to where they were purchased or who installs them. The only way I could see that happening, is if they have some kind of RF-ID tag or the amps have a coded chip to unlock them once installed by a JL authorized shop. That would be a pretty extreme measure to use as well.
Swez
PS Good to see ya droping in there Less. Always good to have ya onboard.
SimmCity on 04/4/2006 16:36:30
so what you are saying less is that I don't have to do any major electricial upgrades and that I can run it off of a factory car wiring, ofcourse with the wiring that I put in to instal the speakers? I'm trying to find a shop here in L.A. to instal it as well as make me a custom box for my sub. I am going with just 1 sub for now and if I am not satisfied then I'll buy another. A friend of mine told me that I would be satisfied with just 1 and anything else would be over kill. I trust his judgement. Also what would be the best type of wiring to go with when running this set up? The amp that they are comming out with soon is the series A amp. I seen it on their web site. Thanks again
demetman on 04/4/2006 16:43:24
Swez,
The use of a coded chip in a JL amp is a scary thought! Has JL been known to do things like that? I would imagine that would be to expensive for any manufacturer to do. I always thought JL only reccomended installation of their products by a dealer and did not require dealer installs. They offered an extended warrenty for dealer installs. I know you have added your opinion on this topic, but what do you think for equipment for my next install?
SimmCity on 04/5/2006 01:22:50
Also what is your opinions on the quality of this system. My goal is to put together a monstrous JL Audio system. I'm trying to have A LOT of base but still able to hear the words very clearly. So if you pull up next to me you can hear me beatin' and hear the words clearly and loud. Excepting suggestions
swez on 04/5/2006 08:17:10
This is a very strong combination of amps and speakers. The installation will be the key to getting peak performance from it.
Also, these amps both pull some strong current at full power. So, if you do use the 1000/1, plan on a minimum electrical upgrade of a strong BAT and the "Big 3" wiring. Also, use a min of #2 gage power feed wire for this system. You're gonna need it.
Swez
PS Dem, am not saying JL is doing any internal tricks with their amps to date. I am only saying, it could be done and how. But, no... I don't think any brands wish to use such devices as mentioned earlier.
lessismorespl on 04/6/2006 10:12:28
Some minor electrical upgrades will be needed, as Swez states, a good deep cycle battery and the Big 3 Upgrade will help. Maybe purchase a good "NEW" alt, not a rewind or rebuilt, DieHard Golds are very good, have good warrantys and do not break the bank. An H/O is an option, but the JL Slash series amps are very power/current friendly, which is why they recieved a 5 yr ext on the patents.
I purchase some things online, but as for JL, I would never purchase it online, 1. because of the quality of their customer service, 2. b/c they honor their warrantys and back them 150%, so why trust excellent high end equipment to some online store factory warranty which means it will be repaired by some back door electronic shop.
less
SimmCity on 04/6/2006 17:13:53
anyone have an idea whta it is gonna cost for me to instal this? The 1000/1 amp, the 12W7, probally 2 pair of XR650-CSi component speakers for the doors and the back, and probally the e4300 series amp to run the components or maybe a 300/2 or 300/4 slash amp?
lessismorespl on 04/7/2006 10:26:19
I would not go w/ the components for the rear, use a pair of comps in the front stage and a set of JL full range coaxials for the rear fill. It will save you a few $$'s and still give you good SQ.
Depending on the shop, an avg. break down of installation would be:
amp(s) install $75 for both
Speakers $35 per pr.
add an additional $10-$20 for shop supplies.
Are you purchasing an enclosure for W7 or having one built. The H/O enclosure is nice, depending on whether you are looking at SQ or SPL, JL also makes a variety of enclosures for the W7. Another thing to note is you may not need to go w/ a 1000/1, a 500/1 would still give you plenty of power to a W7 since the reference efficiency is like 105 dB's, a 500/1 and a H/O W7 enclosure would be very loud, depending on your vehicle, in the high 130's low 140's range. I would go w/ 300/4 for the highs, of course if you want to save some money, go w/ e4300 and say the e1800D.
A good JL system would be:
Front stage: VR 650 CSi
Rear Fill: TR690-TXi
Subwoofer: 12W7 in an H/O Enclosure or if space is a problem you can go w/ the ProWedge enclosure which is also available for the W7.
and if you go w/ the e Series, the e1800D for the W7 and the e4300 for the speakers, or if you go w/ the Slash series, the 500/1 and the 300/4.
Remember, the warrantys from an online store will be 1 yr. and it will get repaired from which electrical repair shop gives them the cheapest quote, or if you buy it and have it installed from an authorized dealer, you will get 2 yrs. on the amps and subs, 1 yr on the speakers. Buying the speakers online would not be a big deal, but the amps and sub I would definately go the few extra $'s and buy from an authorized dealer.
less
SimmCity on 05/12/2006 17:30:29
I ended up putting a 1000/1 amp with a 13W7, the 450/4 to run the components which are the VR690 and the XR650. I got an ultra cap, with JL wiring. And an extra battery
swez on 05/14/2006 11:39:27
Extra BAT? Did you also install a battery charging isolator kit here? This device senses the charge in 2 batteries and fills each one as charging power is demanded.
http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
http://www.emarineinc.com/products/alternators/iso1alt2bat.html
Also, you may want to consider running the 450/4 off your main ignition BAT and this sub amp off the 2nd AUX BAT. The bulk of your power demand will be from the 1000/1. The 450/4 will not take nearly as much power to operate cleanly.
Swez
Replies (14)
demetman on 04/3/2006 23:18:02
You may want to hold up on purchasing an e class amp. I was talking to a JL certified tech a couple days ago and JL is launching a new series of amps to replace e series. Apparently new amps will be super efficient and will perform more like D class amps.
swez on 04/4/2006 07:54:35
Dem should know. He's running the 500/1 and a 300/2 now. These are great amps, but power demands are high for these amps and electrical upgrades will be needed if you go with the 1000/1. That amp alone, can pull close to 80A at full power.
NOTE: Your car needs about 40-50A of current to run the main systems in your car. When adding high powered amplifiers, you may need to do some major electrical upgrades to meet the demands of your new audio gear.
Swez
lessismorespl on 04/4/2006 10:37:21
Actually Swez, not to jump back on here after months of hiding, the Slash series amps possess a regulated power supply, the 500/1 as well as the 1000/1, have been proven in many test to have the rated output power w/ an input as low as 10 volts @ 4ohm impedence. They are very efficient amps, and this regulated power supply, as well as some other features, recieved an extension(5 yrs I believe) on the patents.
As for buying on the streets, online, or any other place that is not authorized, JL Audio has the strictest guidelines for such activity. They have been known to drop dealers for online sales, will not cover anything under warranty that was not sold by an authorized dealer. They have one of the most intricate coding systems in car audio, there are basically 4 serials on any given amp, 2 of which are so hidden you would damage the amp's board trying to find or alter them, there subs and speakers also have hidden serials. JL has gone to extremes to make sure their products only sold by authorized dealers, and the extremely small percentage of products the do sneak through cracks are never covered by them, and they trace products to the distributor when they recieve an amp or sub that was not purchased through an authorized dealer.
As for the e Series amps, they have been developing an upgraded version of these amps for several years now, it is nice to see they will be releasing them soon. Not that the e Series are bad amps, but an upgrade will definately be a great improvement.
A note of trivia, the designer of the Slash Series amps is the same person that developed the old Precision Power Art Series, which are still hailed by Audiophiles as one of the most efficient amps ever produced, and is still considered one of the greatest SQ amps ever made.
less
demetman on 04/4/2006 15:05:33
less,
What's your opinion as a consumer on purchasing JL products online? As you probrably know, many JL products are available through a wide variety of online distributers. The bigger ones will offer a warrenty solely through themselves only(sonicelectronics,onlinecarstereo etc.) One could save a considerable amount of money buying through these sources. I have purchased JL products online saving me about $150.00 per product(maybe thats why my amps are shutting down Swez, lol)
I am lloking for advise on this topic for a system I am putting together for a new vehicle coming my way soon. I will be doing the install myself so the extended warrenty from a JL dealer would be void anyway. I do understand If you feel uncomfortable commenting on this matter. I would imagine many CK "rookies" like myself are wondering the same. Thanks.
swez on 04/4/2006 15:48:15
Less makes a very good point and as he said, JL is very tough on purchases from non-authorized dealers. He should know. Less has been in the biz a long time and has a strong, hands-on background on most products out there to date.
Dem, I don't think your amps are cutting out due to where they were purchased or who installs them. The only way I could see that happening, is if they have some kind of RF-ID tag or the amps have a coded chip to unlock them once installed by a JL authorized shop. That would be a pretty extreme measure to use as well.
Swez
PS Good to see ya droping in there Less. Always good to have ya onboard.
SimmCity on 04/4/2006 16:36:30
so what you are saying less is that I don't have to do any major electricial upgrades and that I can run it off of a factory car wiring, ofcourse with the wiring that I put in to instal the speakers? I'm trying to find a shop here in L.A. to instal it as well as make me a custom box for my sub. I am going with just 1 sub for now and if I am not satisfied then I'll buy another. A friend of mine told me that I would be satisfied with just 1 and anything else would be over kill. I trust his judgement. Also what would be the best type of wiring to go with when running this set up? The amp that they are comming out with soon is the series A amp. I seen it on their web site. Thanks again
demetman on 04/4/2006 16:43:24
Swez,
The use of a coded chip in a JL amp is a scary thought! Has JL been known to do things like that? I would imagine that would be to expensive for any manufacturer to do. I always thought JL only reccomended installation of their products by a dealer and did not require dealer installs. They offered an extended warrenty for dealer installs. I know you have added your opinion on this topic, but what do you think for equipment for my next install?
SimmCity on 04/5/2006 01:22:50
Also what is your opinions on the quality of this system. My goal is to put together a monstrous JL Audio system. I'm trying to have A LOT of base but still able to hear the words very clearly. So if you pull up next to me you can hear me beatin' and hear the words clearly and loud. Excepting suggestions
swez on 04/5/2006 08:17:10
This is a very strong combination of amps and speakers. The installation will be the key to getting peak performance from it.
Also, these amps both pull some strong current at full power. So, if you do use the 1000/1, plan on a minimum electrical upgrade of a strong BAT and the "Big 3" wiring. Also, use a min of #2 gage power feed wire for this system. You're gonna need it.
Swez
PS Dem, am not saying JL is doing any internal tricks with their amps to date. I am only saying, it could be done and how. But, no... I don't think any brands wish to use such devices as mentioned earlier.
lessismorespl on 04/6/2006 10:12:28
Some minor electrical upgrades will be needed, as Swez states, a good deep cycle battery and the Big 3 Upgrade will help. Maybe purchase a good "NEW" alt, not a rewind or rebuilt, DieHard Golds are very good, have good warrantys and do not break the bank. An H/O is an option, but the JL Slash series amps are very power/current friendly, which is why they recieved a 5 yr ext on the patents.
I purchase some things online, but as for JL, I would never purchase it online, 1. because of the quality of their customer service, 2. b/c they honor their warrantys and back them 150%, so why trust excellent high end equipment to some online store factory warranty which means it will be repaired by some back door electronic shop.
less
SimmCity on 04/6/2006 17:13:53
anyone have an idea whta it is gonna cost for me to instal this? The 1000/1 amp, the 12W7, probally 2 pair of XR650-CSi component speakers for the doors and the back, and probally the e4300 series amp to run the components or maybe a 300/2 or 300/4 slash amp?
lessismorespl on 04/7/2006 10:26:19
I would not go w/ the components for the rear, use a pair of comps in the front stage and a set of JL full range coaxials for the rear fill. It will save you a few $$'s and still give you good SQ.
Depending on the shop, an avg. break down of installation would be:
amp(s) install $75 for both
Speakers $35 per pr.
add an additional $10-$20 for shop supplies.
Are you purchasing an enclosure for W7 or having one built. The H/O enclosure is nice, depending on whether you are looking at SQ or SPL, JL also makes a variety of enclosures for the W7. Another thing to note is you may not need to go w/ a 1000/1, a 500/1 would still give you plenty of power to a W7 since the reference efficiency is like 105 dB's, a 500/1 and a H/O W7 enclosure would be very loud, depending on your vehicle, in the high 130's low 140's range. I would go w/ 300/4 for the highs, of course if you want to save some money, go w/ e4300 and say the e1800D.
A good JL system would be:
Front stage: VR 650 CSi
Rear Fill: TR690-TXi
Subwoofer: 12W7 in an H/O Enclosure or if space is a problem you can go w/ the ProWedge enclosure which is also available for the W7.
and if you go w/ the e Series, the e1800D for the W7 and the e4300 for the speakers, or if you go w/ the Slash series, the 500/1 and the 300/4.
Remember, the warrantys from an online store will be 1 yr. and it will get repaired from which electrical repair shop gives them the cheapest quote, or if you buy it and have it installed from an authorized dealer, you will get 2 yrs. on the amps and subs, 1 yr on the speakers. Buying the speakers online would not be a big deal, but the amps and sub I would definately go the few extra $'s and buy from an authorized dealer.
less
SimmCity on 05/12/2006 17:30:29
I ended up putting a 1000/1 amp with a 13W7, the 450/4 to run the components which are the VR690 and the XR650. I got an ultra cap, with JL wiring. And an extra battery
swez on 05/14/2006 11:39:27
Extra BAT? Did you also install a battery charging isolator kit here? This device senses the charge in 2 batteries and fills each one as charging power is demanded.
http://www.bcae1.com/battiso.htm
http://www.emarineinc.com/products/alternators/iso1alt2bat.html
Also, you may want to consider running the 450/4 off your main ignition BAT and this sub amp off the 2nd AUX BAT. The bulk of your power demand will be from the 1000/1. The 450/4 will not take nearly as much power to operate cleanly.
Swez
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