I'm looking to construct a nice bass system for my 2001 suburban. I currently have Infinity Kappa and Crystal component speakers in the front and rear doors powered by a US Acoustics 4085 amp. HU is Blaupunkt San Diego.
I'm considering 2 - 10" subs. Looking for quality rather than volume, but I definately want the system to hit when necessary. I expect to spend around $1000 for the subs and amp, but I would like to spend less.
Here are the subs I was considering:
Polk MM2104DVC; JL W7, W6, or W3's; Infinity Perfect 10d, or the MTX T9510
Anyone have better suggestions, I would definately appreciate it. I want speakers that will last and will pay more for quality, but I don't want to break the bank.
I plan to customize the amp to the subs I purchase, so I'll be back to ask about amps when I decide on subs.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Bearman
Replies (20)
swez on 04/1/2006 18:38:58
How do you feel about Alpine SWR series subs? They can handle 500 watts RMS, do well in small, sealed or ported enclosures and are pretty much an SQL sub. I have seen them on the net for well under $150.00/each.
They also come in 4+4 or 2+2 DVC configurations. This really helps with a larger selection of amp choices.
E-designs have a few very nice subs too. Some are very strong and a single sub may do the job well, but a tad more expensive.
The Polk MOMO's are a pretty solid sub package too. They are a bit spendy, but they have a nice bump to them as well.
Comments?
Swez
bearman on 04/1/2006 19:16:56
Swez, I assume you are not recommending the other sub's I had listed (JL, MTX, or Infinity)? I had not considered the Alpine's but will definately do so now. I only listen to rap about 10% of the time, but when I do, I want the bass to rattle the windows. Are the Alpine or Polk still a good choice?
swez on 04/2/2006 14:47:22
JL is always to top drawer choice, if you don't mind the premium prices.
Infinity makes a number of good subs. Their Kappa Perfects are very good and almost on par with Alpine SWR's. I am a bit dated on MTX subs. Not to familiar with the newer series subs, but the 4000, 6000 and 8000 series were pretty Ho-Hum for the price.
Polk, I love the Polk sound and have used them and own some now. The Momo series woofers are pretty well ranked with subs in it's class, but getting them at a good price is the key. Here, you'll want a pair of 4 ohm SVC's. (Net 2 ohms)
http://www.cardomain.com/item/POLMM2104 $119.00/ea.
Have a look at Alpine SWR 1022D's. They are NOT toys. They can make some serious bass, when you have the power and chose to bump things up a few notches.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=6474 $109.00/ea.
If you want Pro sound quality drivers that can really take low power amps and turn a rock over in your driveway, consider Beyma drivers. We use Beyma for Pro Audio installs. They have very high efficiencies and built like tanks. Of coarse, the price tag is a bit more spendy too.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6489.html $227.00/ea.
If you are on a budget and don't want to spend more than $250.00 for a pair of 10's, Alpine will get the job done!
Swez
bearman on 04/2/2006 20:56:50
Cool, thanks for the advice. I think I'll go with the Alpine's.
Now, how about an amp? Any suggestions that won't break the bank?
swez on 04/3/2006 00:45:43
It's not just breaking the bank here. It's also about how much current draw your electrical system can handle.
Do you know the ALT specs and BAT's CCA rating? Depending on your answer and how much Bass Engine you desire, tells what needs to be done next.
What do you consider as a "Break the bank" budget #?
Swez
bearman on 04/3/2006 11:51:12
I appears the alternator is 130 amps, the CCA on the battery is 525 amps at 0 deg.
I want to push the subs to their limit, if I'm buying it, I want to use it. I didn't want to spend over $1000 on the bass system, therefore, if I can get the subs for around $250 for the pair I have about $750 for the amp. I want to spend as little as possible for the best system I can get, but I'm not unwilling to fork it over when necessary.
Bearman
Victor on 04/3/2006 15:24:19
May i suggest a Pair of Adire audio Brahma 10D2, paired with a JBL 601.1class d monoblok amp...wired for a total load of 2ohms, in a ported enclosure.
http://adireaudio.com/Mobile/BrahmaSeries.htm
http://jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=GTO601.1%20II&cat=AMP&ser=GTS&language=ENG&country=US®ion=USA
or an alpine mrd605 class d, monoblok amp.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=MRD-M605
comments...??
Victor...
bearman on 04/3/2006 16:58:26
Vic, It looks like the Brahma go for about $400 per, that's a load. Also, the amps you suggest only put out around 600w, where as the subs can take about 500w per. That seems to me I would be underpowering the subs. Am I wrong about that? I'm new to this, so enlightenment is always appreciated.
Bearman
Victor on 04/3/2006 17:18:21
Well, since price was not a huge factor, the brahmas are awesome performers, i doubt there wud be any member on CK who wud deny to that one,
also those subs are 600 watts ( PMax), max power is something very different from wrms, those subs are 300wrms each, and they are a perfect match with either of the amps , rather the doubts of underpowering wud arise if u use 2 alpine type R's 10". cause they are 500wrms each..
and 600wrms that those amps put out, aint a joke, with the proper enclosure, it cud definitely give u a good bump..
here's a JBL sub, u cud use, with the jbl amp, a nice combo, high eff sub, allows higher spl's with lesser amplification.
http://jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=GTO601.1%20II&cat=AMP&ser=GTS&language=ENG&country=US®ion=USA
anyways, look what suits ur needs and budget, none of those options above can be underestimated in terms of performance..
Victor...
bearman on 04/3/2006 17:27:15
Thanks for the info Vic. I'll definately take all this into consideration. I am trying to stay under $1k for everything and I'm afraid that will put me over the top.
Bearman
Victor on 04/3/2006 17:31:14
hey do u have a yahoo messenger id? if yes then swez and me are online, we cud guide u thru a few more choices..
bearman on 04/3/2006 17:39:27
Not yet, but I will try to set one up when I get home. I'll let you know. Thanks.
swez on 04/4/2006 07:26:10
Yes, Victor and I were discussing your options and there are many too. Since you have a finite budget cap, we are trying to balance performance and power consumption.
The concenses was that a larger BAT, (800+ CCA rated) would be pretty much a must with any amp(s) rated at 1000 watts RMS or more. (~80-100A @ full power)
Are you also planning to run a full range amp in this system for the front/rear speakers later? If yes, we have to plan ahead for that too. We are looking at total power consumption needs for both now and later. This leads us to consider a high efficiency sub(s), a strong Class D sub amp and still have reserve power for a full range amp later, without the need to add a new ALT to the overall price.
We can hash out some ideas on YIM Chat and fill you in on various options when we connect there. My YIM name is: 'swezdp'
Comments?
Swez
bearman on 04/4/2006 08:04:20
Swez, currently running a US Acoustics 4085 amp to run the front components (Crystals in the front and Infinities in the rear doors).
swez on 04/4/2006 16:03:08
Got it... nice amp too. Too bad they are no longer on the market anymore. I have the USA-4060 version.
That 4085 amp can pull close to 40A on it's own. The vehicle needs at least 40A. 130-80 = 50A left for your sub amp. A Class D amp, ~600 watts RMS is about the best you can do w/o some major electrical upgrades.
That means a 150-200A ALT min and a BIG 3 wiring upgrades will add about $350.00 to your final install, if you go for a larger sub amp. Think that one over carefully.
Swez
bearman on 04/7/2006 11:31:26
Ok, it looks like I am going to go with the Alpine MRD-M605 amp pushing two Alpine SWR-1022D's in a ported box. I just need to do some measuring and calculating before the purchase to ensure it will all fit in the area I want to put it.
Swez, I read your article on subsonic filters. Should I install one on this system if I am going to install these in a ported box?
Also, any recommended electrical upgrades before the install?
Bearman
swez on 04/7/2006 13:26:03
This will work out nice. However, a single SWR 1222D will get the job done with said amp. ( a 15" sub, 4 ohms will be OK too)
If you go ported, yes.. a SSF is highly recommended. The M605 has this and is either 15 or 30 Hz. You'll use the 30 Hz., setting. Yes, you can use a pair of SWR-1022D's, but why? (added cost) The SWR- 1222D is more than adequate. Tune it between 30-35 Hz.
As for power management, Your present ALT is pretty solid. The only additions needed, (most likely) are a larger CCA rated BAT (~800 CCA) and the "Big 3" wirinng upgrades.
This package will net minimal new gearexpenses, a single 12" sub and some wiring and a BAT upgrade.
Comments?
Swez
PS In a large SUV like a Suburban, you'll get a good deal of free low BASS performance, due to transfer functions in this big cave. Take full advantage of that and stick with a single 12 or, perhaps a 15" ported.
bearman on 04/7/2006 13:39:14
Enlighten me. Are you indicating that I will get the same SQ and SPL from a single 12 as I would from two 10's? or are you saying that the amp selected isn't big enough to push the two 10's to their potential?
Also, "Big 3" wiring upgrades. Please expound.
bearman on 04/7/2006 14:14:05
Swez, my YIM is bearmang1, if you want to IM.
swez on 04/7/2006 17:57:05
A single strong 12 or 15 is very capable to handle the M605 output. Sure, you can use a pair of 10's if you wish as well. Flip a coin, both options are well within reason.
The Big 3 upgrade is buried somewhere in the latter posts. It shows how to upgrade stock wiring under the hood, to pass more power to the amplifiers.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g3481_2026
Swez
I'm considering 2 - 10" subs. Looking for quality rather than volume, but I definately want the system to hit when necessary. I expect to spend around $1000 for the subs and amp, but I would like to spend less.
Here are the subs I was considering:
Polk MM2104DVC; JL W7, W6, or W3's; Infinity Perfect 10d, or the MTX T9510
Anyone have better suggestions, I would definately appreciate it. I want speakers that will last and will pay more for quality, but I don't want to break the bank.
I plan to customize the amp to the subs I purchase, so I'll be back to ask about amps when I decide on subs.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Bearman
Replies (20)
swez on 04/1/2006 18:38:58
How do you feel about Alpine SWR series subs? They can handle 500 watts RMS, do well in small, sealed or ported enclosures and are pretty much an SQL sub. I have seen them on the net for well under $150.00/each.
They also come in 4+4 or 2+2 DVC configurations. This really helps with a larger selection of amp choices.
E-designs have a few very nice subs too. Some are very strong and a single sub may do the job well, but a tad more expensive.
The Polk MOMO's are a pretty solid sub package too. They are a bit spendy, but they have a nice bump to them as well.
Comments?
Swez
bearman on 04/1/2006 19:16:56
Swez, I assume you are not recommending the other sub's I had listed (JL, MTX, or Infinity)? I had not considered the Alpine's but will definately do so now. I only listen to rap about 10% of the time, but when I do, I want the bass to rattle the windows. Are the Alpine or Polk still a good choice?
swez on 04/2/2006 14:47:22
JL is always to top drawer choice, if you don't mind the premium prices.
Infinity makes a number of good subs. Their Kappa Perfects are very good and almost on par with Alpine SWR's. I am a bit dated on MTX subs. Not to familiar with the newer series subs, but the 4000, 6000 and 8000 series were pretty Ho-Hum for the price.
Polk, I love the Polk sound and have used them and own some now. The Momo series woofers are pretty well ranked with subs in it's class, but getting them at a good price is the key. Here, you'll want a pair of 4 ohm SVC's. (Net 2 ohms)
http://www.cardomain.com/item/POLMM2104 $119.00/ea.
Have a look at Alpine SWR 1022D's. They are NOT toys. They can make some serious bass, when you have the power and chose to bump things up a few notches.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=6474 $109.00/ea.
If you want Pro sound quality drivers that can really take low power amps and turn a rock over in your driveway, consider Beyma drivers. We use Beyma for Pro Audio installs. They have very high efficiencies and built like tanks. Of coarse, the price tag is a bit more spendy too.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6489.html $227.00/ea.
If you are on a budget and don't want to spend more than $250.00 for a pair of 10's, Alpine will get the job done!
Swez
bearman on 04/2/2006 20:56:50
Cool, thanks for the advice. I think I'll go with the Alpine's.
Now, how about an amp? Any suggestions that won't break the bank?
swez on 04/3/2006 00:45:43
It's not just breaking the bank here. It's also about how much current draw your electrical system can handle.
Do you know the ALT specs and BAT's CCA rating? Depending on your answer and how much Bass Engine you desire, tells what needs to be done next.
What do you consider as a "Break the bank" budget #?
Swez
bearman on 04/3/2006 11:51:12
I appears the alternator is 130 amps, the CCA on the battery is 525 amps at 0 deg.
I want to push the subs to their limit, if I'm buying it, I want to use it. I didn't want to spend over $1000 on the bass system, therefore, if I can get the subs for around $250 for the pair I have about $750 for the amp. I want to spend as little as possible for the best system I can get, but I'm not unwilling to fork it over when necessary.
Bearman
Victor on 04/3/2006 15:24:19
May i suggest a Pair of Adire audio Brahma 10D2, paired with a JBL 601.1class d monoblok amp...wired for a total load of 2ohms, in a ported enclosure.
http://adireaudio.com/Mobile/BrahmaSeries.htm
http://jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=GTO601.1%20II&cat=AMP&ser=GTS&language=ENG&country=US®ion=USA
or an alpine mrd605 class d, monoblok amp.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=MRD-M605
comments...??
Victor...
bearman on 04/3/2006 16:58:26
Vic, It looks like the Brahma go for about $400 per, that's a load. Also, the amps you suggest only put out around 600w, where as the subs can take about 500w per. That seems to me I would be underpowering the subs. Am I wrong about that? I'm new to this, so enlightenment is always appreciated.
Bearman
Victor on 04/3/2006 17:18:21
Well, since price was not a huge factor, the brahmas are awesome performers, i doubt there wud be any member on CK who wud deny to that one,
also those subs are 600 watts ( PMax), max power is something very different from wrms, those subs are 300wrms each, and they are a perfect match with either of the amps , rather the doubts of underpowering wud arise if u use 2 alpine type R's 10". cause they are 500wrms each..
and 600wrms that those amps put out, aint a joke, with the proper enclosure, it cud definitely give u a good bump..
here's a JBL sub, u cud use, with the jbl amp, a nice combo, high eff sub, allows higher spl's with lesser amplification.
http://jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=GTO601.1%20II&cat=AMP&ser=GTS&language=ENG&country=US®ion=USA
anyways, look what suits ur needs and budget, none of those options above can be underestimated in terms of performance..
Victor...
bearman on 04/3/2006 17:27:15
Thanks for the info Vic. I'll definately take all this into consideration. I am trying to stay under $1k for everything and I'm afraid that will put me over the top.
Bearman
Victor on 04/3/2006 17:31:14
hey do u have a yahoo messenger id? if yes then swez and me are online, we cud guide u thru a few more choices..
bearman on 04/3/2006 17:39:27
Not yet, but I will try to set one up when I get home. I'll let you know. Thanks.
swez on 04/4/2006 07:26:10
Yes, Victor and I were discussing your options and there are many too. Since you have a finite budget cap, we are trying to balance performance and power consumption.
The concenses was that a larger BAT, (800+ CCA rated) would be pretty much a must with any amp(s) rated at 1000 watts RMS or more. (~80-100A @ full power)
Are you also planning to run a full range amp in this system for the front/rear speakers later? If yes, we have to plan ahead for that too. We are looking at total power consumption needs for both now and later. This leads us to consider a high efficiency sub(s), a strong Class D sub amp and still have reserve power for a full range amp later, without the need to add a new ALT to the overall price.
We can hash out some ideas on YIM Chat and fill you in on various options when we connect there. My YIM name is: 'swezdp'
Comments?
Swez
bearman on 04/4/2006 08:04:20
Swez, currently running a US Acoustics 4085 amp to run the front components (Crystals in the front and Infinities in the rear doors).
swez on 04/4/2006 16:03:08
Got it... nice amp too. Too bad they are no longer on the market anymore. I have the USA-4060 version.
That 4085 amp can pull close to 40A on it's own. The vehicle needs at least 40A. 130-80 = 50A left for your sub amp. A Class D amp, ~600 watts RMS is about the best you can do w/o some major electrical upgrades.
That means a 150-200A ALT min and a BIG 3 wiring upgrades will add about $350.00 to your final install, if you go for a larger sub amp. Think that one over carefully.
Swez
bearman on 04/7/2006 11:31:26
Ok, it looks like I am going to go with the Alpine MRD-M605 amp pushing two Alpine SWR-1022D's in a ported box. I just need to do some measuring and calculating before the purchase to ensure it will all fit in the area I want to put it.
Swez, I read your article on subsonic filters. Should I install one on this system if I am going to install these in a ported box?
Also, any recommended electrical upgrades before the install?
Bearman
swez on 04/7/2006 13:26:03
This will work out nice. However, a single SWR 1222D will get the job done with said amp. ( a 15" sub, 4 ohms will be OK too)
If you go ported, yes.. a SSF is highly recommended. The M605 has this and is either 15 or 30 Hz. You'll use the 30 Hz., setting. Yes, you can use a pair of SWR-1022D's, but why? (added cost) The SWR- 1222D is more than adequate. Tune it between 30-35 Hz.
As for power management, Your present ALT is pretty solid. The only additions needed, (most likely) are a larger CCA rated BAT (~800 CCA) and the "Big 3" wirinng upgrades.
This package will net minimal new gearexpenses, a single 12" sub and some wiring and a BAT upgrade.
Comments?
Swez
PS In a large SUV like a Suburban, you'll get a good deal of free low BASS performance, due to transfer functions in this big cave. Take full advantage of that and stick with a single 12 or, perhaps a 15" ported.
bearman on 04/7/2006 13:39:14
Enlighten me. Are you indicating that I will get the same SQ and SPL from a single 12 as I would from two 10's? or are you saying that the amp selected isn't big enough to push the two 10's to their potential?
Also, "Big 3" wiring upgrades. Please expound.
bearman on 04/7/2006 14:14:05
Swez, my YIM is bearmang1, if you want to IM.
swez on 04/7/2006 17:57:05
A single strong 12 or 15 is very capable to handle the M605 output. Sure, you can use a pair of 10's if you wish as well. Flip a coin, both options are well within reason.
The Big 3 upgrade is buried somewhere in the latter posts. It shows how to upgrade stock wiring under the hood, to pass more power to the amplifiers.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g3481_2026
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
