Is it a good idea to run each separate voise coil of a DVC sub, on separate channels on a two channel amp?
Or is it best to always use the coils together on one channel?
Will an amp specify if you can bridge it and run it with a 2ohm load.
I have a DVC 4ohm per coil sub, i wanted to buy a mono JBL amp(CS200.1) to run it, but that amp is no longer avalible where i live. (it was such a good price)SAD.
anyhow, two channel amps seem to be cheaper to buy, then the monoblocks
max i want to spend is NZ$240/US$120
Regards JMB
Replies (6)
MrBrownstone on 03/29/2006 03:59:37
You always want to run a subwoofer in mono. As far as the amplifier, if it's a 1 channel amp, usually it'll tell you 4ohm and 2 ohm ratings. With those speakers, you could either use them configured as 8ohm or 2 ohm drivers.
swez on 03/29/2006 07:10:57
Subs are best run in MONO mode or A + B Channel configurations.
A majority of Class D amps are rated for best output at 2 ohm loads. Here, one 4+4 DVC wired in parallel is your best choice.
If you wind up with a 2 channel amp and desire to bridge it to Mono, one 4 ohm SCV or a 2+2 DVC, (both coils in series) are your best bet.
There's nothing wrong with using SVC subs. They work fine and get the job done well enough. The DVC offers more wiring options and often handles more power. But, other than that, their function is the same.
Swez
MrBrownstone on 03/29/2006 10:45:04
2 channel amplifiers are NOT cheaper to buy than monoblock amplifiers...they are different animals.
When considering amplifiers, think efficiency. A class D amplifier reproduces bass without any real stress to the amplifier. ABs are always in a position where they are strained for resources to produce the most dynamic passages.
If you are going to buy an amplifier fo ryour woofers, you should first consider the entire result for the system...not just buying parts. Kinda like buying a car 1 part at a time--you need a plan.
If you don't want to spend money for decent power, then just learn to live with what you have. Used equipment may be an option, but like used cars, you never know what you are getting.
swez on 03/29/2006 13:49:51
Right, Class D's are designed for efficiency, lows only and minimal internal circuitry is needed. The only reason they would be more expensive, is lack of availablty in a given area. It's that old supply VS demand thingy, we all learn in Economics & Marketing 101.
Also, the bulk of power needed by any amplifier, is drawn by high duty cycle, low frequency signals. Midrange and tweets are generally very efficient, they only need about 30% amping power that of the sub, to obtain the same SPL levels.
Subs need a lot more power as they have so much mass to move air and are generally less than 2% EFFICIENT transducers. The 98% of energy consumed, is lost to heat and moving large motor masses. Amazing piece of news huh? Don't take my word as gospel, check it out for yourself.
Swez
JMB on 03/29/2006 14:55:33
Thanks for the replies guys.
So if i had a 300WRMS D class amp and a 300WRMS AB class amp , both running at RMS power, both receiving the same signal, the D class would be drawing less power and heating up less, which means it taxes my electric system less, also the amp might last longer cause it is cooler (heat being the enemy)
I looked at used equipment but dont like the risk factor, all the vendors seem to say somthing along the lines of "only used it for a month, then had to sell my car" or "Its been in the girlfriends car and she doesnt like it loud " yeah right.
Looks like i might have to save up and get a mono.
Hey i appriciate you inpot guys. Regards JMB
swez on 03/29/2006 15:57:05
Most Class D's are designed to deliver 80% efficiencies +/- 5%. A Class A/B (2 cahnnel, full range amp) on a good day, is no more than 60% efficient.
That's the general poop on the differences we can normally expect for either amp type.
A 300 watt (RMS) Class A/B amp will draw ~38A's at full power. A Class D amp of same power rating, will draw ~28A's at full power. We are assuming long, sustained test tones here, which is the worst case scenario.
Swez
Or is it best to always use the coils together on one channel?
Will an amp specify if you can bridge it and run it with a 2ohm load.
I have a DVC 4ohm per coil sub, i wanted to buy a mono JBL amp(CS200.1) to run it, but that amp is no longer avalible where i live. (it was such a good price)SAD.
anyhow, two channel amps seem to be cheaper to buy, then the monoblocks
max i want to spend is NZ$240/US$120
Regards JMB
Replies (6)
MrBrownstone on 03/29/2006 03:59:37
You always want to run a subwoofer in mono. As far as the amplifier, if it's a 1 channel amp, usually it'll tell you 4ohm and 2 ohm ratings. With those speakers, you could either use them configured as 8ohm or 2 ohm drivers.
swez on 03/29/2006 07:10:57
Subs are best run in MONO mode or A + B Channel configurations.
A majority of Class D amps are rated for best output at 2 ohm loads. Here, one 4+4 DVC wired in parallel is your best choice.
If you wind up with a 2 channel amp and desire to bridge it to Mono, one 4 ohm SCV or a 2+2 DVC, (both coils in series) are your best bet.
There's nothing wrong with using SVC subs. They work fine and get the job done well enough. The DVC offers more wiring options and often handles more power. But, other than that, their function is the same.
Swez
MrBrownstone on 03/29/2006 10:45:04
2 channel amplifiers are NOT cheaper to buy than monoblock amplifiers...they are different animals.
When considering amplifiers, think efficiency. A class D amplifier reproduces bass without any real stress to the amplifier. ABs are always in a position where they are strained for resources to produce the most dynamic passages.
If you are going to buy an amplifier fo ryour woofers, you should first consider the entire result for the system...not just buying parts. Kinda like buying a car 1 part at a time--you need a plan.
If you don't want to spend money for decent power, then just learn to live with what you have. Used equipment may be an option, but like used cars, you never know what you are getting.
swez on 03/29/2006 13:49:51
Right, Class D's are designed for efficiency, lows only and minimal internal circuitry is needed. The only reason they would be more expensive, is lack of availablty in a given area. It's that old supply VS demand thingy, we all learn in Economics & Marketing 101.
Also, the bulk of power needed by any amplifier, is drawn by high duty cycle, low frequency signals. Midrange and tweets are generally very efficient, they only need about 30% amping power that of the sub, to obtain the same SPL levels.
Subs need a lot more power as they have so much mass to move air and are generally less than 2% EFFICIENT transducers. The 98% of energy consumed, is lost to heat and moving large motor masses. Amazing piece of news huh? Don't take my word as gospel, check it out for yourself.
Swez
JMB on 03/29/2006 14:55:33
Thanks for the replies guys.
So if i had a 300WRMS D class amp and a 300WRMS AB class amp , both running at RMS power, both receiving the same signal, the D class would be drawing less power and heating up less, which means it taxes my electric system less, also the amp might last longer cause it is cooler (heat being the enemy)
I looked at used equipment but dont like the risk factor, all the vendors seem to say somthing along the lines of "only used it for a month, then had to sell my car" or "Its been in the girlfriends car and she doesnt like it loud " yeah right.
Looks like i might have to save up and get a mono.
Hey i appriciate you inpot guys. Regards JMB
swez on 03/29/2006 15:57:05
Most Class D's are designed to deliver 80% efficiencies +/- 5%. A Class A/B (2 cahnnel, full range amp) on a good day, is no more than 60% efficient.
That's the general poop on the differences we can normally expect for either amp type.
A 300 watt (RMS) Class A/B amp will draw ~38A's at full power. A Class D amp of same power rating, will draw ~28A's at full power. We are assuming long, sustained test tones here, which is the worst case scenario.
Swez
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