Hey golds,
You guys helped me alot on my sub and box stuff so i figured I would come back here for more help. What should I be looking for in a speaker and amp combo? My car fits 6.5s all around and I'm looking to better upgrade the sound. Thanks and I'll try to answer replies to the best of my knowledge if there are any questions.
-Spense
Replies (27)
Resneps on 03/27/2006 13:43:54
One more thing, are these good speakers? http://cgi.ebay.com/PAIR-NEW-PIONEER-6-5-520-WATT-4-WAY-
CAR-AUDIO-SPEAKERS_W0QQitemZ9700252162QQcategoryZ58027QQtcZph
otoQQcmdZViewItem
compvr15s on 03/27/2006 15:52:53
hey whast going on.... one question really quick what is your budget??? we can hook you up with some killer mids and highs but we dont want to be lookin at sumtin around 300-400 total if ya only have 100 to work with ya know.... just throw us a number so we can have somewhere to start.... those pioneers will be a definite upgrade from factory speakers but for a true musical experience you will be much happier with a set of components up fronts, thats woofer and tweeter and a crossover network. and then a set of coaxials in the back would be fine or maybe even a set of midbass woofers... but the front is your main concern.... so give us a budget estimate and we can look for a set of speakers and an amp that will provide decent power to really bring them alive
Resneps on 03/27/2006 16:11:52
Thanks comp...
I guess I'm mainly looking to spend around 150-200 dollars, but preferably less (i'm in college). The key for me is that I can keep these around for the next 5 yrs or so until i'm ready to move on again to another set in the next car. I guess in synopsis: a really good pair, decent price, and extended life so that I can enjoy it as long as possible. I'm sure that's what we all want though right :).
-Spense
compvr15s on 03/27/2006 16:33:11
well to save money you can run off your head unit as long as its aftermaket, if using factory unit a small 2-4 channel amp will be needed, since factory units put out about 7-15 watts, and when you have it cranked alls you will get is distorted signal, speakers wont last very long.... but i would go this way....
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_2024.html 129, component
-or-
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_3451.html 139, component
use eithe of these up front with the tweeter and crossover, will give much better sound than factory setup.
then for the rear id go with a set of coaxial like the pioneers you mentioned or something like this
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6370.html
i used to own a set of these, sounded very clean was happy with them, but by no means you have to go with alpine, just using for reference but they speakers i did mention are above average and for those prices its hard to pass up they are saving 40-50 percent, not bad at all.... but when lookin at speakers you usaually get what you pay for, you will see many companies have different level of speakers, each on gets better but you have to pay for it, it can very from power handling to crossover used to completely different materials used to make the speakers.....
i dont think id ever spend over 300-400 on a set of components unless competing or something like that, but for daily use i would say around 150-200 as u mentioned.... just avoid brands like pyle, sony, dual, pyramid.... those brands... if you not interested in the alpines, do your own searches and post some that you are interested in and we can compare and review them for ya.... when lookin try to find speakers with high sensitivity... this will help if you are usin the head unit for power... good luck
swez on 03/27/2006 17:28:52
Agreed, these are a solid set of Components and Coaxials at a price that is within most folks range. You can expect them to sound much better than stock and if amped, now you're getting somewhere.
Yes, the front stage is your primary focus. Put the good stuff up there as this is what we hear the most. The rears can be run off HU amps as they are very efficient and mostly rear fill anyway.
Yes, there are better Comps out there too. It really boils down to price, (careful shopping) and the install process used. The better we can seal the doors against big air leaks, the more low end frequency we can extract from the door mounted MB/MR drivers. Here, we can use a good membrane type sheet goods to close up the door service holes. There are drain holes in the base of the doors that should be kept open. (Let the water out)
Comments?
Swez
Resneps on 03/28/2006 00:27:35
Sounds great. I'll do some shopping and get back to you guys on it. Installing properly is very important and that's good that you said that. Are there more efficient and better sounding ways to install components i.e. kick panels, specific focusing of the speakers, and other things of that ilk? I guess I first need to find some speakers though.
swez on 03/28/2006 06:59:54
Another fine Comp speaker we have recommended to others, are the CDT Classics or HD series Comps. They cost a bit more, but power handling, sound quality and well designed crossovers, really make them a great long haul choice.
The guys that have used them, liked them a lot. There are also some very good speakers in bulk, available from Parts Express. Some careful shopping, can bring you some fine speakers at very nice prices. Getting good passive crossovers for them, are the tricky part.
Swez
Resneps on 03/28/2006 09:04:31
tell me some more about the CDT Classics please. What makes them so different from the regular component set?
swez on 03/28/2006 12:44:41
The crossover designs employed by CDT are top notch. Cone technology is very much state of the art and the silk dome tweeters are some of the most accurate and natural sounding tweets on the market, in this price range.
Read this piece on the HD Series. It will give you a good idea what to expect. The Classics are a budget minded series, but many find them very adequate and up to the task.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/vince.htm
Now, the best deal I can find off the net, are the CL-60 series Convertibles. At $150.00/set, can be used as Components or Coaxials, depending on location and mounting options. Have a look:
http://www.audio-n-more.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CL-60&Category_Code=CLASSIC_SERIES
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=14&mfg_account_ID=21&category_id=10
Just browse the site and look for the CDT forum too. They have some very good posts and helps there. I would not turn my nose up at CDT products mentioned so far.
Swez
Resneps on 04/3/2006 20:06:05
Since I'm trying to get a clear sound to these speakers....what is a good list of things to look for in an HU? All the offers start to sound exactly alike so what would be the best of the best. Price range 150-250 or less if I could find it. Thanks again
-Spense
swez on 04/4/2006 07:49:06
Yes, they are pretty much in lock step with each other. That makes it a bit more difficult to make a good choice. However, many here find the Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Panasonic and JVC HU's to have very good options, fair prices and should last a long time.
Here's a short list of features to consider, as you look:
1. 2-3 pairs RCA outs (Front, Rear and Sub)
2. 2-4 volt outputs on RCA's
3. A decent EQ system (multiband is good, 3-5 bands)
4. Decent amp power (18-22 watts RMS/channel)
5. Aux inputs for MP3 or other media players later
Try to avoid motorized face panels and fancy displays. These features tend to drive costs up and reliability issues down.
A good listing of products is always available at Crutchfield. Here's a link for what fits your car. Have a look and see if you can fine 2-3 HU's that fit the basic criteria noted above. Then, come back with your choices and we'll review the ones you liked best.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8iRsZN9jd5I/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=300&avf=Y
Swez
PS Crutch prices are not a good as can be found elsewhere on the net. Once you find HU's you like, then we dig for best prices on those models.
P
swez on 04/4/2006 15:37:43
Good choices:
1. Pioneer DEH-P4800 ***
2. Kenwood Excelon KDC-X589 ****
3. Kenwood KDC-MP5032 ***
4. Panasonic MXE CQ-C7401U ****
These are very good features found in the **** category. Does an AUX input feature matter to you? If yes, make sure you include that as part of your features list.
Swez
Resneps on 04/4/2006 16:47:01
Here's what I want to add on to the system (since I'm building in stages):
Comp speakers up front (with amp)
coax in the back
sub amp (already have a sub)
sat radio (possibly)
ipod
The key for me is planning. Since an HU is the starting point, I wanted to find one that will make it possible for me to do all these things without having to back track and "upgrade." I agree the Panasonic and Kenwood 589 look the best. Should I just flip a coin or what? Thanks for your help.
-Spense
swez on 04/5/2006 00:23:22
Search for the best prices on each item that provides the features and upgrades you want for the future. It looks like < $200 is your target and the ability to add on as you go.
The HU RCA voltage is a minimal issue here. However, the key features are just that... primary concerns. Sat radio options, EQ features and an Aux input for an Ipod seem to be the focal points now. The rest is price and preference. My leanings would be toward a Kenwood Excelon HU. (at the right price)
Swez
Resneps on 04/6/2006 11:05:11
The specs on both the Kenwood and Panasonic look very similar, but just with different names that are brand specific. You mentioned the Kenwood as the best choice, could you explain why that is? Also, has anyone else on the forum owned or operated either of these HUs, because a second opinion is always useful.
I did some shopping and the best prices sans ebay were: for the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X589: Etronics @ 154.34 plus tax and for the Panasonic MXE CQ-C7401U: Etronics @ 159.34. Could you find a better deal?
Finally, is there anything I'm leaving out in my search for a good H/U and then speakers? Thanks again
-Spense
Resneps on 04/6/2006 22:59:41
By the way, I didn't forget about the speakers either. Are the Alpine SPR series of components a good choice? I found them on an ebay store for $127 plus shipping. The store is called Audiosavings, so go ahead and take a look at that if you would like...thanks
-Spense
swez on 04/7/2006 08:26:45
The Alpine SPR Comps are a solid choice for most high performance needs in the front stage.
After looking at the features and specs on all the HU's mentioned earlier, I ranked them for you. Each HU has similar features and performance and were the best in the list given. The main thing to consider now, is how well either will fit in to your present ride and getting a good price.
It looks like you already have very good prices on either HU. However, run both products through the "What fits my car" screening tool at Crutchfield.com. If you get a flag on either one, then go with the one that fits best.
Finally, the Hands on Research feature at Crutch, gives a well detailed review of the various features in each HU. It also explains what each feature does and how to use it. This legwork is best done on your own, so you can learn what to buy and why.
Swez
Resneps on 04/7/2006 09:34:10
Alright, thanks Swez.
So recap...
SPRs are a good choice and it's up to me for the H/U
Finally, earlier, Comp mentioned that an amp would be necessary to run the front stage while the HU could run the rear. Would a two or four channel amp be a better choice? Thanks again Swez
-Spense
swez on 04/7/2006 13:00:27
Yes, front stage Comps amped, is the superior choice. The rear channel is primarily a "fill in the gaps" and adds a degree of live sound ambience, if rear channel fill is used. Here, high efficiency speakers, (MB or Full range Coaxials) are very good options. (rear speakers)
Yes, you can use a strong 2 channel for the front stage, matching the RMS power ratings of the Comps you choose to use. If you wish to amp the rear speakers too, then a solid 4 channel amp is your best bet.
Having said that, there is an issue of adequate supply power from the vehicle electricals to consider. (Especially with sub amps) This can also be done in stages. But, careful planning and budgeting your purchases, will net superior results in time.
Something to consider here, "How much clean SPL do you really want" ? Based on that aspect, we work from that premise and your budget. Then, we can address the Bass Engine needs to match.
There is a good option to use a strong 4 channel amp here. The front channels drive your Components. The rear channels are bridged for subs. The rear fill can be powered off the HU amps.
This option requires the minimal add on gear, minimal electrical upgrades and will still provide SPL/SQ = SQL w/o breaking the bank.
Comments?
Swez
Resneps on 04/13/2006 10:02:09
That sounds like a good idea. I'm a little confused as to how we could make sure that each speaker is getting close to its max, since subs and comps are rated at such different wrms.
I think that I am pretty much settled on the SPRs for the front comps, which run at about 75 wrms. In the rear I will probably have some 4-way pioneers that run at around 50 wrms. And I have an Alpine SWR 1242 that runs at 250-500 wrms, but I would prefer the upper end of wattage (of course). I really do value SQL, but if I want to "show off" the system, then a want for SPL is not really a bad thing. Or is it? thanks
-Spense
swez on 04/13/2006 10:40:02
Probably looking at 2 amplifiers here. A 2 channel, full range for the front Comps and a Class D Mono amp for the sub.
This all boils down to the budget available and what brand of amps will give you the most clean bang for your buck. We can look at many potential brands, once you have a cost estimate for your project.
Since you have found very good prices on the HU, sub and Comps, now it's shopping around for quality brand amps with the power ratings high enough to deliver. Consider names like JBL, Infinity, Alpine, MTX, Crossfire or even JL.
Full range: 75+ watts RMS @ 4 ohms
Sub: 300-500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms
NOTE: There is not a huge SPL difference between a 300 and 500 watt amp. A 300 RMS amp will net out over 120dB of bass energy. A 500 RMS amp will give you about +2.5dB more SPL. Considering the power demands of the two, a 300 RMS amp, makes a lot of practical sense. Yes, 300 watts is plenty loud!
Comments?
Swez
Resneps on 04/13/2006 16:52:20
Are the power ratings for the full range amp 75 x 2?
So as far as brands go, is MA audio a good brand? What about Swiss Audio? Or Power Akoustic? I frequently run into great prices on good wattage, but I always wonder if the price cut is cutting quality. For example, I've found some two channels at 150 wrms x 2 for around $150. Either way....
You mentioned in an earlier post that 2 amps would put a large strain on my electrical system. Would it just be better to find a very large amp to power both systems or can you tell me a way to power two amps with minimal draw? Thanks again
Spenser
lewis on 04/13/2006 18:18:45
well i read a little of this post and know you are on a budget, but if you wanted a good amp to power your whole system you could go with the jl audio 500/5. its rated at 100/2 for the fronts 25/2 for the rear and 250/1 for the sub and the recomended fuse is 50A so it shouldnt be that much of a drain on your electrical system.
the only real problem i see with it would be the price (about $600)
ive never used ma audio or swiss audio but i can warn yo to stay away from power akoustic. one of the first amps i ever bought was a power akoustic (that i think was supposed to be 1000w) i bought it to power 2 12" subs by the time i was done i had a jensen 300w (junk) amp hooked up to the subs and the 1000w (or so i thought) running the front door coaxials because the jensen was more powerful (it was also less then half the size)
Resneps on 04/14/2006 12:27:15
thanks Lewis. With a price tag like that I don't think it's possible...but I did search the web and found it at around 500 at a couple of sites but nothing lower than that. I did however find a good deal on a Hifonics "Zeus" model. Is that reputable?
swez on 04/15/2006 17:34:20
Yes, HiFonics is still a player in the game and the Zeus series has been around many years now. I hear tell that some of the HiFonics line has been degraded a bit from its former years, but still a viable option.
Swez
Resneps on 04/21/2006 16:18:55
Let's say that I go with the two amp option.... I am intending on getting the Alpine SPR that run at around 70wrms and a matching Alpine MRP-F240 that runs at 100 wrms*2 @ 2 ohms or 40*4 @ 4 ohms. I have an Alpine SWR-1242D and I am currently looking for a mono amp rated at 300 wrms or more. Will this be too much of a draw on my system?
swez on 04/21/2006 20:51:55
Consider these for your sub amp options:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=234
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=66
These amp will draw about 30A's at full power.
The F240 will draw close to 40A's at full power, when bridged down to 2 channels and 4 ohms/ch.
So, we are looking at 65-70A's current draw from both amps at full power. Figure your vehicle will need 50-60A's to run all key electronics as well. That's 130 amperes in all right?
I think the Honda has a stock output of ~90A's at 2,500 RPM. At idle, it will be about half that. Here, the "Big 3" wiring upgrade and a high CCA rated BAT may just get the job done. That would be #4 gage for the Big 3 and #4 for the main power line that feeds each amp, split to a pair of #8 wires, after the D-block. Fuse the amps main line at 80A's and use #8 grounds for each amp as well.
How does that sound to you?
Swez
You guys helped me alot on my sub and box stuff so i figured I would come back here for more help. What should I be looking for in a speaker and amp combo? My car fits 6.5s all around and I'm looking to better upgrade the sound. Thanks and I'll try to answer replies to the best of my knowledge if there are any questions.
-Spense
Replies (27)
Resneps on 03/27/2006 13:43:54
One more thing, are these good speakers? http://cgi.ebay.com/PAIR-NEW-PIONEER-6-5-520-WATT-4-WAY-
CAR-AUDIO-SPEAKERS_W0QQitemZ9700252162QQcategoryZ58027QQtcZph
otoQQcmdZViewItem
compvr15s on 03/27/2006 15:52:53
hey whast going on.... one question really quick what is your budget??? we can hook you up with some killer mids and highs but we dont want to be lookin at sumtin around 300-400 total if ya only have 100 to work with ya know.... just throw us a number so we can have somewhere to start.... those pioneers will be a definite upgrade from factory speakers but for a true musical experience you will be much happier with a set of components up fronts, thats woofer and tweeter and a crossover network. and then a set of coaxials in the back would be fine or maybe even a set of midbass woofers... but the front is your main concern.... so give us a budget estimate and we can look for a set of speakers and an amp that will provide decent power to really bring them alive
Resneps on 03/27/2006 16:11:52
Thanks comp...
I guess I'm mainly looking to spend around 150-200 dollars, but preferably less (i'm in college). The key for me is that I can keep these around for the next 5 yrs or so until i'm ready to move on again to another set in the next car. I guess in synopsis: a really good pair, decent price, and extended life so that I can enjoy it as long as possible. I'm sure that's what we all want though right :).
-Spense
compvr15s on 03/27/2006 16:33:11
well to save money you can run off your head unit as long as its aftermaket, if using factory unit a small 2-4 channel amp will be needed, since factory units put out about 7-15 watts, and when you have it cranked alls you will get is distorted signal, speakers wont last very long.... but i would go this way....
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_2024.html 129, component
-or-
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_3451.html 139, component
use eithe of these up front with the tweeter and crossover, will give much better sound than factory setup.
then for the rear id go with a set of coaxial like the pioneers you mentioned or something like this
http://sonicelectronix.com/item_6370.html
i used to own a set of these, sounded very clean was happy with them, but by no means you have to go with alpine, just using for reference but they speakers i did mention are above average and for those prices its hard to pass up they are saving 40-50 percent, not bad at all.... but when lookin at speakers you usaually get what you pay for, you will see many companies have different level of speakers, each on gets better but you have to pay for it, it can very from power handling to crossover used to completely different materials used to make the speakers.....
i dont think id ever spend over 300-400 on a set of components unless competing or something like that, but for daily use i would say around 150-200 as u mentioned.... just avoid brands like pyle, sony, dual, pyramid.... those brands... if you not interested in the alpines, do your own searches and post some that you are interested in and we can compare and review them for ya.... when lookin try to find speakers with high sensitivity... this will help if you are usin the head unit for power... good luck
swez on 03/27/2006 17:28:52
Agreed, these are a solid set of Components and Coaxials at a price that is within most folks range. You can expect them to sound much better than stock and if amped, now you're getting somewhere.
Yes, the front stage is your primary focus. Put the good stuff up there as this is what we hear the most. The rears can be run off HU amps as they are very efficient and mostly rear fill anyway.
Yes, there are better Comps out there too. It really boils down to price, (careful shopping) and the install process used. The better we can seal the doors against big air leaks, the more low end frequency we can extract from the door mounted MB/MR drivers. Here, we can use a good membrane type sheet goods to close up the door service holes. There are drain holes in the base of the doors that should be kept open. (Let the water out)
Comments?
Swez
Resneps on 03/28/2006 00:27:35
Sounds great. I'll do some shopping and get back to you guys on it. Installing properly is very important and that's good that you said that. Are there more efficient and better sounding ways to install components i.e. kick panels, specific focusing of the speakers, and other things of that ilk? I guess I first need to find some speakers though.
swez on 03/28/2006 06:59:54
Another fine Comp speaker we have recommended to others, are the CDT Classics or HD series Comps. They cost a bit more, but power handling, sound quality and well designed crossovers, really make them a great long haul choice.
The guys that have used them, liked them a lot. There are also some very good speakers in bulk, available from Parts Express. Some careful shopping, can bring you some fine speakers at very nice prices. Getting good passive crossovers for them, are the tricky part.
Swez
Resneps on 03/28/2006 09:04:31
tell me some more about the CDT Classics please. What makes them so different from the regular component set?
swez on 03/28/2006 12:44:41
The crossover designs employed by CDT are top notch. Cone technology is very much state of the art and the silk dome tweeters are some of the most accurate and natural sounding tweets on the market, in this price range.
Read this piece on the HD Series. It will give you a good idea what to expect. The Classics are a budget minded series, but many find them very adequate and up to the task.
http://www.cdtaudio.com/vince.htm
Now, the best deal I can find off the net, are the CL-60 series Convertibles. At $150.00/set, can be used as Components or Coaxials, depending on location and mounting options. Have a look:
http://www.audio-n-more.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CL-60&Category_Code=CLASSIC_SERIES
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=page.display&page_id=14&mfg_account_ID=21&category_id=10
Just browse the site and look for the CDT forum too. They have some very good posts and helps there. I would not turn my nose up at CDT products mentioned so far.
Swez
Resneps on 04/3/2006 20:06:05
Since I'm trying to get a clear sound to these speakers....what is a good list of things to look for in an HU? All the offers start to sound exactly alike so what would be the best of the best. Price range 150-250 or less if I could find it. Thanks again
-Spense
swez on 04/4/2006 07:49:06
Yes, they are pretty much in lock step with each other. That makes it a bit more difficult to make a good choice. However, many here find the Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Panasonic and JVC HU's to have very good options, fair prices and should last a long time.
Here's a short list of features to consider, as you look:
1. 2-3 pairs RCA outs (Front, Rear and Sub)
2. 2-4 volt outputs on RCA's
3. A decent EQ system (multiband is good, 3-5 bands)
4. Decent amp power (18-22 watts RMS/channel)
5. Aux inputs for MP3 or other media players later
Try to avoid motorized face panels and fancy displays. These features tend to drive costs up and reliability issues down.
A good listing of products is always available at Crutchfield. Here's a link for what fits your car. Have a look and see if you can fine 2-3 HU's that fit the basic criteria noted above. Then, come back with your choices and we'll review the ones you liked best.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-8iRsZN9jd5I/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=300&avf=Y
Swez
PS Crutch prices are not a good as can be found elsewhere on the net. Once you find HU's you like, then we dig for best prices on those models.
P
swez on 04/4/2006 15:37:43
Good choices:
1. Pioneer DEH-P4800 ***
2. Kenwood Excelon KDC-X589 ****
3. Kenwood KDC-MP5032 ***
4. Panasonic MXE CQ-C7401U ****
These are very good features found in the **** category. Does an AUX input feature matter to you? If yes, make sure you include that as part of your features list.
Swez
Resneps on 04/4/2006 16:47:01
Here's what I want to add on to the system (since I'm building in stages):
Comp speakers up front (with amp)
coax in the back
sub amp (already have a sub)
sat radio (possibly)
ipod
The key for me is planning. Since an HU is the starting point, I wanted to find one that will make it possible for me to do all these things without having to back track and "upgrade." I agree the Panasonic and Kenwood 589 look the best. Should I just flip a coin or what? Thanks for your help.
-Spense
swez on 04/5/2006 00:23:22
Search for the best prices on each item that provides the features and upgrades you want for the future. It looks like < $200 is your target and the ability to add on as you go.
The HU RCA voltage is a minimal issue here. However, the key features are just that... primary concerns. Sat radio options, EQ features and an Aux input for an Ipod seem to be the focal points now. The rest is price and preference. My leanings would be toward a Kenwood Excelon HU. (at the right price)
Swez
Resneps on 04/6/2006 11:05:11
The specs on both the Kenwood and Panasonic look very similar, but just with different names that are brand specific. You mentioned the Kenwood as the best choice, could you explain why that is? Also, has anyone else on the forum owned or operated either of these HUs, because a second opinion is always useful.
I did some shopping and the best prices sans ebay were: for the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X589: Etronics @ 154.34 plus tax and for the Panasonic MXE CQ-C7401U: Etronics @ 159.34. Could you find a better deal?
Finally, is there anything I'm leaving out in my search for a good H/U and then speakers? Thanks again
-Spense
Resneps on 04/6/2006 22:59:41
By the way, I didn't forget about the speakers either. Are the Alpine SPR series of components a good choice? I found them on an ebay store for $127 plus shipping. The store is called Audiosavings, so go ahead and take a look at that if you would like...thanks
-Spense
swez on 04/7/2006 08:26:45
The Alpine SPR Comps are a solid choice for most high performance needs in the front stage.
After looking at the features and specs on all the HU's mentioned earlier, I ranked them for you. Each HU has similar features and performance and were the best in the list given. The main thing to consider now, is how well either will fit in to your present ride and getting a good price.
It looks like you already have very good prices on either HU. However, run both products through the "What fits my car" screening tool at Crutchfield.com. If you get a flag on either one, then go with the one that fits best.
Finally, the Hands on Research feature at Crutch, gives a well detailed review of the various features in each HU. It also explains what each feature does and how to use it. This legwork is best done on your own, so you can learn what to buy and why.
Swez
Resneps on 04/7/2006 09:34:10
Alright, thanks Swez.
So recap...
SPRs are a good choice and it's up to me for the H/U
Finally, earlier, Comp mentioned that an amp would be necessary to run the front stage while the HU could run the rear. Would a two or four channel amp be a better choice? Thanks again Swez
-Spense
swez on 04/7/2006 13:00:27
Yes, front stage Comps amped, is the superior choice. The rear channel is primarily a "fill in the gaps" and adds a degree of live sound ambience, if rear channel fill is used. Here, high efficiency speakers, (MB or Full range Coaxials) are very good options. (rear speakers)
Yes, you can use a strong 2 channel for the front stage, matching the RMS power ratings of the Comps you choose to use. If you wish to amp the rear speakers too, then a solid 4 channel amp is your best bet.
Having said that, there is an issue of adequate supply power from the vehicle electricals to consider. (Especially with sub amps) This can also be done in stages. But, careful planning and budgeting your purchases, will net superior results in time.
Something to consider here, "How much clean SPL do you really want" ? Based on that aspect, we work from that premise and your budget. Then, we can address the Bass Engine needs to match.
There is a good option to use a strong 4 channel amp here. The front channels drive your Components. The rear channels are bridged for subs. The rear fill can be powered off the HU amps.
This option requires the minimal add on gear, minimal electrical upgrades and will still provide SPL/SQ = SQL w/o breaking the bank.
Comments?
Swez
Resneps on 04/13/2006 10:02:09
That sounds like a good idea. I'm a little confused as to how we could make sure that each speaker is getting close to its max, since subs and comps are rated at such different wrms.
I think that I am pretty much settled on the SPRs for the front comps, which run at about 75 wrms. In the rear I will probably have some 4-way pioneers that run at around 50 wrms. And I have an Alpine SWR 1242 that runs at 250-500 wrms, but I would prefer the upper end of wattage (of course). I really do value SQL, but if I want to "show off" the system, then a want for SPL is not really a bad thing. Or is it? thanks
-Spense
swez on 04/13/2006 10:40:02
Probably looking at 2 amplifiers here. A 2 channel, full range for the front Comps and a Class D Mono amp for the sub.
This all boils down to the budget available and what brand of amps will give you the most clean bang for your buck. We can look at many potential brands, once you have a cost estimate for your project.
Since you have found very good prices on the HU, sub and Comps, now it's shopping around for quality brand amps with the power ratings high enough to deliver. Consider names like JBL, Infinity, Alpine, MTX, Crossfire or even JL.
Full range: 75+ watts RMS @ 4 ohms
Sub: 300-500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms
NOTE: There is not a huge SPL difference between a 300 and 500 watt amp. A 300 RMS amp will net out over 120dB of bass energy. A 500 RMS amp will give you about +2.5dB more SPL. Considering the power demands of the two, a 300 RMS amp, makes a lot of practical sense. Yes, 300 watts is plenty loud!
Comments?
Swez
Resneps on 04/13/2006 16:52:20
Are the power ratings for the full range amp 75 x 2?
So as far as brands go, is MA audio a good brand? What about Swiss Audio? Or Power Akoustic? I frequently run into great prices on good wattage, but I always wonder if the price cut is cutting quality. For example, I've found some two channels at 150 wrms x 2 for around $150. Either way....
You mentioned in an earlier post that 2 amps would put a large strain on my electrical system. Would it just be better to find a very large amp to power both systems or can you tell me a way to power two amps with minimal draw? Thanks again
Spenser
lewis on 04/13/2006 18:18:45
well i read a little of this post and know you are on a budget, but if you wanted a good amp to power your whole system you could go with the jl audio 500/5. its rated at 100/2 for the fronts 25/2 for the rear and 250/1 for the sub and the recomended fuse is 50A so it shouldnt be that much of a drain on your electrical system.
the only real problem i see with it would be the price (about $600)
ive never used ma audio or swiss audio but i can warn yo to stay away from power akoustic. one of the first amps i ever bought was a power akoustic (that i think was supposed to be 1000w) i bought it to power 2 12" subs by the time i was done i had a jensen 300w (junk) amp hooked up to the subs and the 1000w (or so i thought) running the front door coaxials because the jensen was more powerful (it was also less then half the size)
Resneps on 04/14/2006 12:27:15
thanks Lewis. With a price tag like that I don't think it's possible...but I did search the web and found it at around 500 at a couple of sites but nothing lower than that. I did however find a good deal on a Hifonics "Zeus" model. Is that reputable?
swez on 04/15/2006 17:34:20
Yes, HiFonics is still a player in the game and the Zeus series has been around many years now. I hear tell that some of the HiFonics line has been degraded a bit from its former years, but still a viable option.
Swez
Resneps on 04/21/2006 16:18:55
Let's say that I go with the two amp option.... I am intending on getting the Alpine SPR that run at around 70wrms and a matching Alpine MRP-F240 that runs at 100 wrms*2 @ 2 ohms or 40*4 @ 4 ohms. I have an Alpine SWR-1242D and I am currently looking for a mono amp rated at 300 wrms or more. Will this be too much of a draw on my system?
swez on 04/21/2006 20:51:55
Consider these for your sub amp options:
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=234
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=66
These amp will draw about 30A's at full power.
The F240 will draw close to 40A's at full power, when bridged down to 2 channels and 4 ohms/ch.
So, we are looking at 65-70A's current draw from both amps at full power. Figure your vehicle will need 50-60A's to run all key electronics as well. That's 130 amperes in all right?
I think the Honda has a stock output of ~90A's at 2,500 RPM. At idle, it will be about half that. Here, the "Big 3" wiring upgrade and a high CCA rated BAT may just get the job done. That would be #4 gage for the Big 3 and #4 for the main power line that feeds each amp, split to a pair of #8 wires, after the D-block. Fuse the amps main line at 80A's and use #8 grounds for each amp as well.
How does that sound to you?
Swez
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