Hello,
I haven't posted here in a while, but you guys helped me out a bunch when I was in the concept phase of my system, so I've come back seeking more expertise.
I think my amp is underpowered for the sub I have. I have one Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 SVC 4ohm sub. It's in a sealed box that's .96 cubic feet - just under the 1 cubic foot recommendation. The sub is rated to handle 350 watts RMS and 1400 watts peak. The amp that's pushing it is an old Precision Power Art Series 200.2, bridged down, and rated at 200 watts RMS. All this is connected to my stock head unit (2005 WRX) via a David Navone line out converter. I know the amp probably puts out more power than it's rated at (all of the Art Series were underrated), but I still think it's underpowered for the sub. The sub doesn't seem to be performing up to it's potential, and I worry about the amp clipping because I'm pushing it too hard. So,
Should I worry about my sub being underpowered with my current amp? How do I identify when the amp is clipping, and what steps can I take to avoid it so it doesn't damage my speaker? Would there be a significant gain in upgrading the amp to justify the cost?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replies (3)
swez on 03/17/2006 21:40:43
What is/are the value(s) of the fuses in this present amp? If it is a pair of 20A fuses, most likely it is rated for 300 watts (RMS) when bridged to a 4 ohm SVC.
You can test the AC voltage output at the speaker outputs, (no speaker connected) and determine the RMS power to the sub with an AC volt meter. It is best to perform this test with sub test tones or a pink noise tone. Many audio test CD's have these available.
Also, the amp gain adjustment may be a tad off. Depending on the model of Navone convertor used, they often have variable pot adjustments to tweak or use the amp gain adjustment pot, to dial in your amp voltage.
I covered the details on dialing in an amp in another post. The voltage values are specific to the JL amps noted. However, we can do a similar test with your amp too. Here is the link for it: (Read steps carefully)
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g4093_2580
If the sub is rated for 350 watts RMS, your voltage reading should be about 37.4 volts AC with a "0" dB test tone in the 50-80 Hz., range. This is measured at the speaker outputs for bridge mode configuration, while amp is being fed test tone signals.
If you see numbers well short of 35 volts AC, the amp is not putting out rated power. The sub enclosure is fine. No need to make any adjustments there.
Comments,
Swez
VRWRX on 03/22/2006 09:23:19
I forgot to check the value of the fuse, but I went back and double-checked my work and realized that I hadn't bridged the amp - the speaker was hooked up to only one channel. I bridged it and turned the gain on the amp down to about 3/4, and it's sounding great! I don't think there's any need for an adjustment. I don't want to turn the gain on the amp up any higher for two reasons - I don't want the amp to start clipping and damage the speaker, and it's as loud as it needs to be now at 3/4. I may even turn the gain down a bit. I still have my factory mids and highs, so I don't need too much bass or it sounds uneven.
Do you still think it's necessary to go out and check the AC voltage (I'd have go buy a multimeter)?
swez on 03/22/2006 10:14:27
If you want to dial things in with a reasonable degree of accuracy, no need for the meter. However, if you want to optimize your system and make sure the amp is NOT over-extended, (sub at risk) what's $20.00 for a meter you can use for many purposes here and elsewhere?
Your call friend,
Swez
PS The fuse ratings on this amp, tell a lot about what to expect from this amp. The meter will help you get the most clean power from amp, w/o risk of sub or amp failures later. Flip a coin!
I haven't posted here in a while, but you guys helped me out a bunch when I was in the concept phase of my system, so I've come back seeking more expertise.
I think my amp is underpowered for the sub I have. I have one Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 SVC 4ohm sub. It's in a sealed box that's .96 cubic feet - just under the 1 cubic foot recommendation. The sub is rated to handle 350 watts RMS and 1400 watts peak. The amp that's pushing it is an old Precision Power Art Series 200.2, bridged down, and rated at 200 watts RMS. All this is connected to my stock head unit (2005 WRX) via a David Navone line out converter. I know the amp probably puts out more power than it's rated at (all of the Art Series were underrated), but I still think it's underpowered for the sub. The sub doesn't seem to be performing up to it's potential, and I worry about the amp clipping because I'm pushing it too hard. So,
Should I worry about my sub being underpowered with my current amp? How do I identify when the amp is clipping, and what steps can I take to avoid it so it doesn't damage my speaker? Would there be a significant gain in upgrading the amp to justify the cost?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Replies (3)
swez on 03/17/2006 21:40:43
What is/are the value(s) of the fuses in this present amp? If it is a pair of 20A fuses, most likely it is rated for 300 watts (RMS) when bridged to a 4 ohm SVC.
You can test the AC voltage output at the speaker outputs, (no speaker connected) and determine the RMS power to the sub with an AC volt meter. It is best to perform this test with sub test tones or a pink noise tone. Many audio test CD's have these available.
Also, the amp gain adjustment may be a tad off. Depending on the model of Navone convertor used, they often have variable pot adjustments to tweak or use the amp gain adjustment pot, to dial in your amp voltage.
I covered the details on dialing in an amp in another post. The voltage values are specific to the JL amps noted. However, we can do a similar test with your amp too. Here is the link for it: (Read steps carefully)
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g4093_2580
If the sub is rated for 350 watts RMS, your voltage reading should be about 37.4 volts AC with a "0" dB test tone in the 50-80 Hz., range. This is measured at the speaker outputs for bridge mode configuration, while amp is being fed test tone signals.
If you see numbers well short of 35 volts AC, the amp is not putting out rated power. The sub enclosure is fine. No need to make any adjustments there.
Comments,
Swez
VRWRX on 03/22/2006 09:23:19
I forgot to check the value of the fuse, but I went back and double-checked my work and realized that I hadn't bridged the amp - the speaker was hooked up to only one channel. I bridged it and turned the gain on the amp down to about 3/4, and it's sounding great! I don't think there's any need for an adjustment. I don't want to turn the gain on the amp up any higher for two reasons - I don't want the amp to start clipping and damage the speaker, and it's as loud as it needs to be now at 3/4. I may even turn the gain down a bit. I still have my factory mids and highs, so I don't need too much bass or it sounds uneven.
Do you still think it's necessary to go out and check the AC voltage (I'd have go buy a multimeter)?
swez on 03/22/2006 10:14:27
If you want to dial things in with a reasonable degree of accuracy, no need for the meter. However, if you want to optimize your system and make sure the amp is NOT over-extended, (sub at risk) what's $20.00 for a meter you can use for many purposes here and elsewhere?
Your call friend,
Swez
PS The fuse ratings on this amp, tell a lot about what to expect from this amp. The meter will help you get the most clean power from amp, w/o risk of sub or amp failures later. Flip a coin!
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
