i have been gone for a while but i am back... i just picked up 2 12 inch jl wo's in a box for 5 bux. but one of them dosnt work the cone moves in and out with no noise. the leads into the cone one on them is frade and i used a 9 volt to batt to see if i can get it to make a noise but nothing ? am i stuck getting a new one ?
feels good to be back i have been gone for about 2 yrs im guessing.....i cant even believe that my sn is still on here...
Replies (10)
swez on 03/10/2006 07:41:11
Try hooking the bad sub up to an ohm meter and see what kind of ohmic reading you get.
If the value is below 1.5 ohms, the coil is probably shorted out. If the reading is very high, (over 100 K ohms) the coil is probably open.
Either of these means surgery on the sub. Probably not worth the cost of a re-cone job. ($80.00 or so)
Swez
ttocs on 03/10/2006 09:32:53
one of your speakers is probably out of phase, or wired backwards from the other. Unhook one of the speakers and see if the bass increases, if so then wire one of the speakers backwards, doesn't matter which one.....
swez on 03/10/2006 12:45:22
If the good sub shared the same chamber as "the BAD one", both cones will move with audio signals coming into the box. However, if you hear no sound and see no movement on the bad sub when testing with a low voltage battery, good chance it failed.
It could be a simple repair like a bad connection from tinsel lead to speaker lugs, tinsel wire to coil leads or more complex. Ya game?
Swez
ckoscin2 on 03/10/2006 15:46:46
sorry they are bolth out of the box i have never hooked them up. they wouldnt be out of phase. i think i have to hoor her up to a ohm meter like swez said in the second post.
in all i got 2 jl subs and a box for 5 bux. i was told that one doesnt work, now i just need to pick up another one i am guessing..
thanks guys it feels good to be back.....
ttocs on 03/10/2006 17:05:23
if the cone moves it should be making some kind of noise.
swez on 03/11/2006 10:47:44
With some minor fiddling, you may get lucky and find out where the problem is and repair it yourself. Interested? Let me know and I'll give you some tips on woofer troubleshooting techniques.
Swez
ckoscin2 on 03/11/2006 15:20:41
ok now i have gone and did it, i took a ride to the mall yesterday (about an hour away) and when i was on my way i stoped at the car stereo shop and i picked up a jl w1v2 4ohm for $100. i figured that i would have the 2 for now (one w0 and one w1)and just save up and get another w1v2 so i would have 2 of the w1's. if i could get that other jl to work i could sell the older pair of w0's on ebay or something. what should i start out the auction price of just the one working jl w0, it looks in good shape just with some dust?
on the one that doesnt work, the cone moves in and out when i push on it with no noise and it feels like nothing is worng. although the kid who had the sub b4 me tryed to resodder one of the lead wires that had come loose to the speaker terminal and the other one is fraied(sp) looks like its comming undone. i tryed a 9 volt and played with the wires to see if i can make the cone move? if the lead wires are messed up like that does that mean that the speaker is gone? i would like to see if i can get it working now to see if i can sell them as a pair on ebay.
swez on 03/11/2006 19:36:38
Well, since you did not hear any scraping as you moved the cone in and out, the coil is not charred.
That frayed coil lead could be damanged and not conducting power to the coil as well. You can try a bit more testing with the 9 volt battery and a few wires attached to it. Here's how:
1. A pair Alligator test clips on both wires (wires 18-24" long each)
2. Attach clips to the lead wires, where they go into the cone
3. Connect loose ends of clip wires and attach to the 9 volt battery
4. Do you hear any 'clicks' or 'pops' ? If yes, the speaker may still be good
If YES, the tinsel lead wires are not conducting power from the speaker wire lugs . The solder joint at the speaker lugs could be faulty or one tinsel lead wire is damaged. (between lug and cone)
If NO sounds are heard on this test, you may have to remove the dust cap that is glued onto the front part of the cone and probe the coil lead wires where they meet the tinsel lead wires. This can be a very delicate operation.
The trick is to get a small, sharp tool and gently create a small gap between the cone and dust cap. Once a small section is lifted from the cone, go around the cap and gently pry it off the sub cone. Avoid slicing/tearing the cone!!! The dust cap can be replace if damaged. (Replacement dust caps can be purchased at Parts Express)
Once the dust cap has been removed, you will see where the tinsel leads are connected to the voice coil leads. Probe these with your batter and test wires. Do you get any sounds or observe cone movement now?
Do you have an Ohmmeter handy?
Swez
ckoscin2 on 03/13/2006 02:29:55
i tryed the 9 volt thing with some speaker wire to see if i can get it to work and nothing i have to go under the dust cap. no i dont have an ohmmeter handy, where can i pick one up like at radio shack and how much are they ? i will try under the dust cap and see if i can get anything to happen. i think this sub didnt come with a dust cap, how much would one run me ?
thanks guys
swez on 03/13/2006 11:17:20
There is a large dustcap on the WO series sub. It a large black dome, (maybe 3-4" dia.) the is mounted right on the center of the cone with a JL logo on it. This needs to be removed, before you ca do much else.
To remove the dust cap, you may wish to use a Q-tip and some IPA (rubbing alcohol) to loosen the present glue and then peel it up gently with a fine tipped probe, razor blade or an ice pick type tool. Just apply some IPA to the Q-tip, remove excess liquid and dab the Q-tip on the rim of the dust cap, wait a few minutes and them begin to release the cap from the cone. Just go slowly and you may be able to re-use the dust cap again later.
As for a meter. Here's a useful, easy to use model and low cost unit from Radio Shack: $20.00
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=&fbn=Price%2F%2410.00+-+%2449.99&fbc=1&fr=StorePrice%2FRSK%2F00001000%2F00004999&kw=multimeters&parentPage=search
Swez
feels good to be back i have been gone for about 2 yrs im guessing.....i cant even believe that my sn is still on here...
Replies (10)
swez on 03/10/2006 07:41:11
Try hooking the bad sub up to an ohm meter and see what kind of ohmic reading you get.
If the value is below 1.5 ohms, the coil is probably shorted out. If the reading is very high, (over 100 K ohms) the coil is probably open.
Either of these means surgery on the sub. Probably not worth the cost of a re-cone job. ($80.00 or so)
Swez
ttocs on 03/10/2006 09:32:53
one of your speakers is probably out of phase, or wired backwards from the other. Unhook one of the speakers and see if the bass increases, if so then wire one of the speakers backwards, doesn't matter which one.....
swez on 03/10/2006 12:45:22
If the good sub shared the same chamber as "the BAD one", both cones will move with audio signals coming into the box. However, if you hear no sound and see no movement on the bad sub when testing with a low voltage battery, good chance it failed.
It could be a simple repair like a bad connection from tinsel lead to speaker lugs, tinsel wire to coil leads or more complex. Ya game?
Swez
ckoscin2 on 03/10/2006 15:46:46
sorry they are bolth out of the box i have never hooked them up. they wouldnt be out of phase. i think i have to hoor her up to a ohm meter like swez said in the second post.
in all i got 2 jl subs and a box for 5 bux. i was told that one doesnt work, now i just need to pick up another one i am guessing..
thanks guys it feels good to be back.....
ttocs on 03/10/2006 17:05:23
if the cone moves it should be making some kind of noise.
swez on 03/11/2006 10:47:44
With some minor fiddling, you may get lucky and find out where the problem is and repair it yourself. Interested? Let me know and I'll give you some tips on woofer troubleshooting techniques.
Swez
ckoscin2 on 03/11/2006 15:20:41
ok now i have gone and did it, i took a ride to the mall yesterday (about an hour away) and when i was on my way i stoped at the car stereo shop and i picked up a jl w1v2 4ohm for $100. i figured that i would have the 2 for now (one w0 and one w1)and just save up and get another w1v2 so i would have 2 of the w1's. if i could get that other jl to work i could sell the older pair of w0's on ebay or something. what should i start out the auction price of just the one working jl w0, it looks in good shape just with some dust?
on the one that doesnt work, the cone moves in and out when i push on it with no noise and it feels like nothing is worng. although the kid who had the sub b4 me tryed to resodder one of the lead wires that had come loose to the speaker terminal and the other one is fraied(sp) looks like its comming undone. i tryed a 9 volt and played with the wires to see if i can make the cone move? if the lead wires are messed up like that does that mean that the speaker is gone? i would like to see if i can get it working now to see if i can sell them as a pair on ebay.
swez on 03/11/2006 19:36:38
Well, since you did not hear any scraping as you moved the cone in and out, the coil is not charred.
That frayed coil lead could be damanged and not conducting power to the coil as well. You can try a bit more testing with the 9 volt battery and a few wires attached to it. Here's how:
1. A pair Alligator test clips on both wires (wires 18-24" long each)
2. Attach clips to the lead wires, where they go into the cone
3. Connect loose ends of clip wires and attach to the 9 volt battery
4. Do you hear any 'clicks' or 'pops' ? If yes, the speaker may still be good
If YES, the tinsel lead wires are not conducting power from the speaker wire lugs . The solder joint at the speaker lugs could be faulty or one tinsel lead wire is damaged. (between lug and cone)
If NO sounds are heard on this test, you may have to remove the dust cap that is glued onto the front part of the cone and probe the coil lead wires where they meet the tinsel lead wires. This can be a very delicate operation.
The trick is to get a small, sharp tool and gently create a small gap between the cone and dust cap. Once a small section is lifted from the cone, go around the cap and gently pry it off the sub cone. Avoid slicing/tearing the cone!!! The dust cap can be replace if damaged. (Replacement dust caps can be purchased at Parts Express)
Once the dust cap has been removed, you will see where the tinsel leads are connected to the voice coil leads. Probe these with your batter and test wires. Do you get any sounds or observe cone movement now?
Do you have an Ohmmeter handy?
Swez
ckoscin2 on 03/13/2006 02:29:55
i tryed the 9 volt thing with some speaker wire to see if i can get it to work and nothing i have to go under the dust cap. no i dont have an ohmmeter handy, where can i pick one up like at radio shack and how much are they ? i will try under the dust cap and see if i can get anything to happen. i think this sub didnt come with a dust cap, how much would one run me ?
thanks guys
swez on 03/13/2006 11:17:20
There is a large dustcap on the WO series sub. It a large black dome, (maybe 3-4" dia.) the is mounted right on the center of the cone with a JL logo on it. This needs to be removed, before you ca do much else.
To remove the dust cap, you may wish to use a Q-tip and some IPA (rubbing alcohol) to loosen the present glue and then peel it up gently with a fine tipped probe, razor blade or an ice pick type tool. Just apply some IPA to the Q-tip, remove excess liquid and dab the Q-tip on the rim of the dust cap, wait a few minutes and them begin to release the cap from the cone. Just go slowly and you may be able to re-use the dust cap again later.
As for a meter. Here's a useful, easy to use model and low cost unit from Radio Shack: $20.00
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=&fbn=Price%2F%2410.00+-+%2449.99&fbc=1&fr=StorePrice%2FRSK%2F00001000%2F00004999&kw=multimeters&parentPage=search
Swez
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