hi
i'm willing to upgrade my audio system but before i do any thing i need support from you ,,
i'm willing to install one pair of jl audio 10w7 but the thing is i can't purchase the jl audio 1000/1 amp but it's damn expensive so i would go for the mrd-1001 mono alpine cause it's reasonable price it's more powerful than the newer alpine mrd-1005 mono
so is it a good combination and will it's work fine if i wired the 2 subs in 2ohm with mdr-1001 m
need support from the experts
many thanks GRIN
Replies (30)
swez on 03/2/2006 08:58:59
Yes, you'll have plenty of bass power from all amps mentioned. It mostly depends on the supply voltage and ohmic load the amp is feeding.
Frankly, you can also go with a single 10 or 12" JL W7 series sub and 500/1 and get excellent results. The price and power consumption are less and SPL difference is only ~3dB more SPL with a pair and 1000 watts RMS. Is it really worth the extra expense for a few extra dB?
Swez
only_tuning on 03/2/2006 09:07:22
thanks swez
so you recommend me to go for single 10w7 rather than buying one pair of 10w7, and no need for 1000rms amp ?
cause i have two things in mind:
either jl audio 10w7 subs or alpine new r type 10'' which is going to be used with alpine mrd-1001 mono?
plz guide me to the better sq and spl from these two choices? THINK
swez on 03/2/2006 11:52:34
One thing to really consider with a larger amp such as mentioned, can your electrical system support an amp that can draw upwards of 60-75A on long bass hits? If you have a high CCA BAT and a 150A+ ALT, should be OK with what is mentioned. However, if the electricals are STOCK OEM, not likely.
A single JL W7 sub is designed to handle up to 750 Wrms in a sealed box. It is rated like the Alpine SWR series sub... 500 Wrms is optimal power to either sub.
Is there a notable difference in SQL performance between 500-750 Wrms on either sub? Not really that much. Yes, the bass spikes will keep the larger amp from clipping and yield a clean (low distortion) signal to a given sub.
But, depending on ones' listening habits and self-control, a fried sub is possible with either amp rating. It all depends on how one uses or abuses their gear.
Can your electrical system support say 150A of surge current?
Swez
only_tuning on 03/2/2006 13:44:44
thanks swez
my electrical system in my recent car can't support the amp at this moment but i'm just asking to be sure of my future audio setup , i'm planning to do some saving for the new install for nissan z350 , this's the car i'm purchasing soon in the next coming months.
the alpines subs type r 10''(new) are lower in price but i'm not sure if their sq is equal to the jl audio 10w7 subs.
sorry for distrubing you swez, but i need to make sure about what i'm purchasing cause the jl audio's are not avaiable in my country so i need to order them , but with alpines subs it's available in my place.
i'm an average user i don't abuse the subs with spl compitions and i don't listen to classic music i want SQL........ GRIN
swez on 03/2/2006 17:02:19
Would you be willing to entertain a 2 stage bass engine install? Meaning, Start with 1 JL W7 and say the MRD-605 Mono amp? If you like this sub with ~500 Wrms powering it... you home free. I would estimate you will get over 130 dB of clean SPL in this option. That's a lot of bass power in a sportscar like the Nissan 350.
However, if you want that extra bass kick, then duplicate the 1st round with a 2nd matching amp and sub.
Frankly, I don't think the +3 dB more SPL is worth all the expense. Not only the cost of sub, box and amp, but also add the electrical upgrades to go along with this and you have a big budget coming for this minimal extra SPL.
NOTE: The 10W7 is a 3 ohm driver. This will net about 500 Wrms from the MRD-605 amp noted, at full power. A very nice match
What country are you from O_T?
Swez
PS If you want some addition bass SPL (+3 to 4dB) at the low end of the bass spectrum, go ported as shown in the 10W7 .pdf manual:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7591.pdf
saintanddolphin on 03/2/2006 19:28:02
The Type R Aline sub is a solid sq sub but the JL 10W7 is a great sql sub.
The 10W7 400-500 bucks...The Type R is less than 200.
COFFEE
Mike
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 03:18:07
so bottom of line : if i bought the alpine mrd-1001 mono with 2 jl audio 10w7 wont make a big diffrence with single 12w7 or single10w7 jl audio and mrd-501 mono, only few (3-4 +db) extra.
compvr15s on 03/3/2006 04:19:46
yep you basically have it pin pointed, and to tell ya the truth i dont know if you will even notice the difference... I didnt believe everybody that said that 2 subs aint much louder than 1, so i did a lil test with my system, two 15inch comp vrs in a dual sealed box, i listened to a couple of heavy bass song, late night tip is usally the song i use to test massive bass. so i sat in made sure all windows were closed and jucied up the system, then i went back and just removed pos and neg of the left sub, retested with same song, from inside the car i could not tell a difference, when back at the trunk there was a lil difference, then i also retested with the right woofer unpowered, same effect....
so if i was you, i would go with 1 woofer of choice, and get a matching amp that will also not require electrical upgrades... one lesson i have learned buy big the first time... if your car will handle a 1000 watt amp with no problem go that way, even if the sub can only handle 750 watts, thats plenty of head room, and gain adjusting will fix all the extra power.... dont go out and buy a 300 watt amp and 1000 watt subs, ya get what im saying, go with what your car will handle and then just make sure to set gains correct and you will be good to go, and then if you want to change subs later on or something like that you always have that extra power if needed... but if you think 600 watt amp will be good for your car,id go that way and with a ported box as swez mentioned you can gain that few dbs back.... i have currently 1 kicker kx600.1 amp in a 92 lumina, with no big 3upgrade, nothing special and even at max volume i seldom get a dimming of the lights, there are a few songs that will hit hard enough to suck a lil too much juice...
the place where i bought my 2 15s also sells JL audio, this was a while back when they had just got JL in, they hooked up my 2 15s to a kicker kx1200.1, each sub getting 600watts and then they hooked up a JL 13w7 in the slot port JL box. and i kid you not that single woofer about made my jaw drop, even in the wide open shop, it made my 15s sound like midbass woofers lol... its very impressive. and it is probably the cleanest sounding woofer i have ever head in person...
for that type of money you may want to check into some of the other manufacturs that can ship to your area if possible, lot of people say that adire aduio brahmas will out perform the W7 in spl and sq, also hear lot about RE woofers pumping some masive bass and sounding good.. http://www.ascendantaudio.com/products.html check this company out, they have a havoc woofer that is their flagship model and its only $325 dollar... i talked with the owner of the company and he has had many people come into his shop with alpine type r woofers that switch out for arsenal series woofers, he says that they outperform the type r, so i could only imagine what the havoc models could do.... ok its 3:20 im going to bed. good luck
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 05:26:37
i think i'm convinced with a single jl audio 10w7 or 12w7 i'll be matching it with alpine mrd-501 mono i'll see if i'll go ported or sealed till now i'm not sure!!
many thanks experts ,,,
swez on 03/3/2006 09:34:50
We have a winner here folks!!! ding ding ding
As I was trying to point out, sometimes, Less is indeed More. Looks like Comp VR's story put the icing on the cake... thanks bud!
Swez COFFEE
PS Nice to see ya back at CK there Saint.. SMILE
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 16:34:54
one more thing ..... lol i didn't change my mind again .. don'y worry.
but one more thing just to make sure of everything is perfectly matched..
i have now the alpine mrd-501 mono and i'll be purchasing the jl audio 10w7 sub !! so i'll be willing to use the 500rms power of the amp on the sub........
so will my amp push 500 rms to the sub or wont.... cause in alpine mrd-501 mono it dosent say anything if it can push at 1.5 ohm like the jl audio 500/1 does: it can push 500rms from 1.5 ohm to 4 ohm at all conditions right!!!
please guide me to the best wiring for 1 alpine mrd-501 mono with single jl audio 10w7 sub to play 500rms.
sorry for being pain in the a**
many thanks
swez on 03/3/2006 16:41:26
I had a hard time figuring out if the W7 is a dual 3 ohm coil or some other configuration. The specs say 3 ohms and an Re of 2.6 ohms. (DC resistance is Re spec)
Can someone confirm from owning a W7, what this sub wiring option actually is? (I am leaning toward a dual 3+3 coil set here)
Please confirm, then I can answer your ???'sa
Swez
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 18:11:11
from the specs it's shown that's a 3 coil set and you can also adjust it to 1.5 ohm in the (pos+) and (neg-) terminal ...
compvr15s on 03/3/2006 18:45:04
i would not recommed runnin that amp at 1.5 omhs. if you have not yet got that amp and want something more like the jl 500/1. look into pheonix gold's xenon 600.1. 600 watts at 1-4omh load, pretty versitile for wiring up subs, can be had at much bettter cost than the 500/1..
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 19:03:12
i'm sorry to say that i already have the alpine mrd-501 mono amp
.............. so if i ran the amp on 3 ohm so it will only push 250-350 rms .. and if i pushed it to 1.5 ohm wiring, the amp won't handle it right !!!
FROWN
so what's the result if i installed them together( amp: alpine mrd-501 and sub: jl audio 10w7 ) at 3ohm and at 1.5 ohm..
compvr15s on 03/3/2006 20:42:30
at 3ohms you will prolly get 350 400 watts. at 1.5 you would probably get prolly 550-600 watts. but that amp is not rated for loads that low so i would not even bother to go that way, can void the warranty if anything bad happens ur pretty much SOL. with 400 watts and a ported enclosure that 10w7 will still give exellent performance in both sq and spl... i can not give an estimate, have to factor in cabin gain, eqs all of the other good stuff.... if it were me i would go with the JL slot port box, designed for the w7. im sure you will be overly happy with output.
swez on 03/3/2006 21:42:21
OK, I read a very lenthy and technical review from some guys at Car Audio & Elctronics. A few things noted here... these guys are fanatics about SQ bass performance and tested this sub (10W7-3) to its limits.
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0210cae_jla/
The short form comments were... loved it, great engineering design work and very solid in the deep lows and at $549.00 retail, they should be all of that.
While reading the JL specs, it seemed to me, this sub employs a 3 ohm SVC design. It is not a dual coil sub. That was a correct assumption.
Looking at this amp/sub paring, the 501 will likely deliver a solid 350 to 400 Wrms @ 3 ohms. (input voltage dependent) In the ported box design, it is likely to perform well in SQ and very well in SQL parameters. Go ported per JL design guidelines.
Swez
only_tuning on 03/4/2006 06:23:52
you know what i can go for alpine mrd-1001 mono and match it with jl audio 12w7 cause it will be go match if it's playing at 3ohm load. and it will deliver aprox 750 rms which will be perfect.
any advice!!!
cause it's easier to push 700 rms to jl audio 12w7 on alpine mrd-1001 mono at 3 ohm than pushing 550-600 rms on 1.5 ohm load at th 10w7 with alpine mrd-501 isn't it!!!
swez on 03/4/2006 15:25:21
The MRD-1001 is a bit strong for the W7 sub. Not only that, but current draw will likely cause most stock electricals some serious issues at full power. If you went this route, better go for a sealed box design. The air pressure inside the box will help keep the cone from going ballistic on you.
As for SQL, the 501/W7 is a good match in a ported design here. The efficiency of the port/vent, coupled with how many watts it takes to get the sub to X-max, are the key issues here. Once the sub reaches X-max, more power can damage the sub from over-excursion.
Swez
only_tuning on 03/4/2006 16:29:50
my plans are to go sealed cause i'll try the sub in a normal sealed box then if it's alright !!
then i'll do fiberglass custom box.
i'm not tring to be smart here but i'm just clearing my point if it's right :
i totaly understand that the amp will draw alot of power but i'll be using only 3 ohm of the alpine mrd-1001 mono so it wont be that hard in the amp to push the power and about the sub i guess as per the power chart rms handling of 12w7 it's best use of sub at 750rms .
will i be damging the sub .. if i'm going to install mrd-1001 mono , at 3 ohm , sealed box.
compvr15s on 03/4/2006 18:44:31
nah you should be fine as long as your elecrtical output can handle it. id say prolly 750-800 watts at 3omhs, and if you do go sealed im sure it will handle every bit of 900 or more, but no reason to over do it. the only advantage of going with the 1000 watt amp is that you will be jumping to the 12w7, should drop a lil lower and still sound very clean. if you aint experienced with setting ur gains, for the equipment u are using, may want to seek a professional for this, puttin out that kinda dough on a sub ya better make sure to make it last, give a lil too much bass booste or power and ur voice coils are gonna over heat and then u got major problems. good luck
swez on 03/5/2006 00:00:54
The sealed box is a good option if you have enough clean watts to bring the sub to full potentials, but not over-drive your amp or sub into distortion and clipping probems. This means careful gain setting on the MRD-1001 with your HU and using minimal bass boost at amp or HU.
This is why voltage readings off the amp are critical. (To sub at full power) A well tuned set of ears will tell if a sub is being stressed or the amp is putting out distortion values that are harmful to a sub.
Finally, the W7 is rated for 500 watts continous power input. The cooling features on this sub, do an excellent job pulling damaging heat away from the voice coil. It can take short spikes of wattage, well above 500 watts. But a constant test tone (continous, like a sine wave test tone) are very hard on any sub.
Swez
PS Keep this in mind as you install and set up your system!!!
only_tuning on 03/5/2006 06:40:07
i totally understand but the thing i don't want to go for a jl audio 10w7 with alpine mrd-501 is because i got already the mrd-757 alpine 2ch and push 2x200 rms for each sud i'm using alpine old type s 10inch at 4ohm.
and it's pushing already 400rms so that's why if im purchasing the 10w7 jl audio with alpine mrd-501 it wont be big diffrence only 100rms extra.
you know why know i'm insisting in going over 600rms...
Raefin on 03/5/2006 10:51:22
I can tell you that the 12w7 in the sealed enclosure can easily support 1000 watts rms. I have the 1000/1 powering the 12w7 in the prowedge enclosure. This is setup in a 2003 suburban. The power requirements are stiff though. I had to use 1/0 gauge wiring and add a second battery just to prevent the dimming with the stock alternator. The output from the sealed sub is enough that I cannot turn the volume over 3/4's without seriously hurting my ears.
Also, as an aside, without a licensed authorized JL audio installer for your JL gear the warranty is substantially decreased. I have already had my amps sent back twice for replacement during the 2-3 years I have owned them.
Realize that any of the w7 series should be loud enough for any normal use. Competition use is another animal. But for the w7's to work properly requires quite a large amount of power and you may well have issues with your stock electrical system due to the drain.
swez on 03/5/2006 11:06:06
Yes, that makes sense to me... you want more sub output than what is available now. (MRV-F757 & Alpine Type S subs) Use this amp later to power your front stage full range Comps or Coaxials.
If you really want that MRD-1001 for your JL W7, why not. Just understand you will need some major electrical upgrades and a heavy power feed line from BAT to amps, to give sufficient power to all amps used.
Say more please,
Swez
only_tuning on 03/5/2006 14:13:37
i'll explain why i'm insisting :
i had an expearince with alpines and i love their product and i'm familliar with them.......... i always wanted to try jl audio products and it's a high end brand and quality products ..
i willing to upgrade my system ......... so i wanted to try something new .. first what came to my mind is to combine jl audio products and alpine ...
so i wanted to use the jl audio 10w7 with alpine mrd-501 and its kind of un balanced .. cause the power is not enough when its at 3ohm for the sub and if i went at 1.5 ohm the alpine amp won't handel the load.
so i chanded the plan: one jl audio 12w7 and alpine mrd-1001 and the case was the sub wont handel the amp power i don't know why but i just follewed the experts advise to be in the safe side .. and i totally trust and respect the advice of the experts here..
so i need advice:
i'm willing to do upgrades if needed as long as i can reach to the best SQL.
all what i want is to combine jl audio subs or alpine subs and amps
i want to use over 500rms power
what's in mind :
A) use alpine mrd-501 with jl audio w7 subs. ( not possiable)
B) use alpine mrd-501 with one 12 or 10 new alpine type r subs
C) use alpine mrd-1001 with one jl audio 12w7 sub
D) use alpine mrd-1001 with 2 new alpine type r 10 or 12 subs
E) use alpine mrd-1001 with one type x 12 inch sub.
now need advice which it the best choice if i'll go sealed .. and which is the best choice to get best SQL ..
many many thanks to the experts.
compvr15s on 03/5/2006 15:29:41
you can go with plan a. just not going to get full potential out of the sub, but if you go with the power wedge box or whatever its called taht was designed for the w7 series, you will have more than enough power to operate that sub to its fullest, can still have good sql with ported box, and then u will have some room for an amp for your mids and highs without huge electrical upgrades
swez on 03/5/2006 19:47:26
To get what you really want, (based on many previous posts) option C is probably the best rig with the 12W7 in a sealed or ported enclosure. Sealed will give very good SQL. Ported will give more SPL, but less power is needed before the sub begins to reach or pass X-max performance. Some careful gain setting is required if you go ported and need a SS filter on the amp too.
The newer Alpine MRD-M1005 looks like a winner from research of Alpine products and manuals. I cannot locate .pdf's on the MRD-D1001 model. (might only be offered out of USA?)
http://www.stylestandard.net/oswego/Rooms/FrameMacro (see specifications on page 17)
As for electricals needed, the D1005 is fused at 80A. (20A x 4) The projected power this amp can deliver will be >700 Wrms, <850 Wrms, depending on input voltage @ a 3 ohm load. It also has a selectable SS filter. (15 or 30 Hz.) Perfect for a 32-35 Hz., Port tuned enclosure.
Looking ahead a bit, consider the Mid/Highs amp as part of your overall electrical package needs. The "Big 3" upgrade is a definite yes. A #2 gage kit would be best.
As for the ALT, will need enough juice for all main car electrical devices (60-75A) and enough reserve power for the amps used. That puts you between 175-200 amperes of power. A strong Optima BAT with 800 CCA #'s, should be used here to act as a current buffer. You might consider a 2.5-3.0 Farad Surge Cap, but I would forego that and put that into the BAT power reserves.
Swez
2
only_tuning on 03/6/2006 03:08:33
thank all the experts for all the best advice given to me . the specs of the alpine mrd-1001 is better cause it has better tweaking specs ... the heat sink of the amp is big it will stay more cool than the mrd-1005 ..
the only real advantage of the new alpine mrd-1005 is is compact in size if u compare it to the old mrd-1001.
so my final word: is to purchase 12w7 jl audio powering it with alpine mrd-1001 in a sealed box ... will be careful with the tweaking ..........
compvr15s on 03/6/2006 03:19:31
if the specs are the same, go for which ever you can get cheaper, at 3 omhs you are not gonna have to worry about overheating, if i had to guess it will stay fairly cool at all times... do you have your mind set on alpine amps, if not there are others out there for the same price or cheaper that give same perfromace or better, not trying to make u stray from alpine as they are very solid products but you are paying a lil extra for the name... if alpine is what you want by all means go with it, i would use it in my own installs, just trying to see if we can save a lil moeny
i'm willing to upgrade my audio system but before i do any thing i need support from you ,,
i'm willing to install one pair of jl audio 10w7 but the thing is i can't purchase the jl audio 1000/1 amp but it's damn expensive so i would go for the mrd-1001 mono alpine cause it's reasonable price it's more powerful than the newer alpine mrd-1005 mono
so is it a good combination and will it's work fine if i wired the 2 subs in 2ohm with mdr-1001 m
need support from the experts
many thanks GRIN
Replies (30)
swez on 03/2/2006 08:58:59
Yes, you'll have plenty of bass power from all amps mentioned. It mostly depends on the supply voltage and ohmic load the amp is feeding.
Frankly, you can also go with a single 10 or 12" JL W7 series sub and 500/1 and get excellent results. The price and power consumption are less and SPL difference is only ~3dB more SPL with a pair and 1000 watts RMS. Is it really worth the extra expense for a few extra dB?
Swez
only_tuning on 03/2/2006 09:07:22
thanks swez
so you recommend me to go for single 10w7 rather than buying one pair of 10w7, and no need for 1000rms amp ?
cause i have two things in mind:
either jl audio 10w7 subs or alpine new r type 10'' which is going to be used with alpine mrd-1001 mono?
plz guide me to the better sq and spl from these two choices? THINK
swez on 03/2/2006 11:52:34
One thing to really consider with a larger amp such as mentioned, can your electrical system support an amp that can draw upwards of 60-75A on long bass hits? If you have a high CCA BAT and a 150A+ ALT, should be OK with what is mentioned. However, if the electricals are STOCK OEM, not likely.
A single JL W7 sub is designed to handle up to 750 Wrms in a sealed box. It is rated like the Alpine SWR series sub... 500 Wrms is optimal power to either sub.
Is there a notable difference in SQL performance between 500-750 Wrms on either sub? Not really that much. Yes, the bass spikes will keep the larger amp from clipping and yield a clean (low distortion) signal to a given sub.
But, depending on ones' listening habits and self-control, a fried sub is possible with either amp rating. It all depends on how one uses or abuses their gear.
Can your electrical system support say 150A of surge current?
Swez
only_tuning on 03/2/2006 13:44:44
thanks swez
my electrical system in my recent car can't support the amp at this moment but i'm just asking to be sure of my future audio setup , i'm planning to do some saving for the new install for nissan z350 , this's the car i'm purchasing soon in the next coming months.
the alpines subs type r 10''(new) are lower in price but i'm not sure if their sq is equal to the jl audio 10w7 subs.
sorry for distrubing you swez, but i need to make sure about what i'm purchasing cause the jl audio's are not avaiable in my country so i need to order them , but with alpines subs it's available in my place.
i'm an average user i don't abuse the subs with spl compitions and i don't listen to classic music i want SQL........ GRIN
swez on 03/2/2006 17:02:19
Would you be willing to entertain a 2 stage bass engine install? Meaning, Start with 1 JL W7 and say the MRD-605 Mono amp? If you like this sub with ~500 Wrms powering it... you home free. I would estimate you will get over 130 dB of clean SPL in this option. That's a lot of bass power in a sportscar like the Nissan 350.
However, if you want that extra bass kick, then duplicate the 1st round with a 2nd matching amp and sub.
Frankly, I don't think the +3 dB more SPL is worth all the expense. Not only the cost of sub, box and amp, but also add the electrical upgrades to go along with this and you have a big budget coming for this minimal extra SPL.
NOTE: The 10W7 is a 3 ohm driver. This will net about 500 Wrms from the MRD-605 amp noted, at full power. A very nice match
What country are you from O_T?
Swez
PS If you want some addition bass SPL (+3 to 4dB) at the low end of the bass spectrum, go ported as shown in the 10W7 .pdf manual:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7591.pdf
saintanddolphin on 03/2/2006 19:28:02
The Type R Aline sub is a solid sq sub but the JL 10W7 is a great sql sub.
The 10W7 400-500 bucks...The Type R is less than 200.
COFFEE
Mike
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 03:18:07
so bottom of line : if i bought the alpine mrd-1001 mono with 2 jl audio 10w7 wont make a big diffrence with single 12w7 or single10w7 jl audio and mrd-501 mono, only few (3-4 +db) extra.
compvr15s on 03/3/2006 04:19:46
yep you basically have it pin pointed, and to tell ya the truth i dont know if you will even notice the difference... I didnt believe everybody that said that 2 subs aint much louder than 1, so i did a lil test with my system, two 15inch comp vrs in a dual sealed box, i listened to a couple of heavy bass song, late night tip is usally the song i use to test massive bass. so i sat in made sure all windows were closed and jucied up the system, then i went back and just removed pos and neg of the left sub, retested with same song, from inside the car i could not tell a difference, when back at the trunk there was a lil difference, then i also retested with the right woofer unpowered, same effect....
so if i was you, i would go with 1 woofer of choice, and get a matching amp that will also not require electrical upgrades... one lesson i have learned buy big the first time... if your car will handle a 1000 watt amp with no problem go that way, even if the sub can only handle 750 watts, thats plenty of head room, and gain adjusting will fix all the extra power.... dont go out and buy a 300 watt amp and 1000 watt subs, ya get what im saying, go with what your car will handle and then just make sure to set gains correct and you will be good to go, and then if you want to change subs later on or something like that you always have that extra power if needed... but if you think 600 watt amp will be good for your car,id go that way and with a ported box as swez mentioned you can gain that few dbs back.... i have currently 1 kicker kx600.1 amp in a 92 lumina, with no big 3upgrade, nothing special and even at max volume i seldom get a dimming of the lights, there are a few songs that will hit hard enough to suck a lil too much juice...
the place where i bought my 2 15s also sells JL audio, this was a while back when they had just got JL in, they hooked up my 2 15s to a kicker kx1200.1, each sub getting 600watts and then they hooked up a JL 13w7 in the slot port JL box. and i kid you not that single woofer about made my jaw drop, even in the wide open shop, it made my 15s sound like midbass woofers lol... its very impressive. and it is probably the cleanest sounding woofer i have ever head in person...
for that type of money you may want to check into some of the other manufacturs that can ship to your area if possible, lot of people say that adire aduio brahmas will out perform the W7 in spl and sq, also hear lot about RE woofers pumping some masive bass and sounding good.. http://www.ascendantaudio.com/products.html check this company out, they have a havoc woofer that is their flagship model and its only $325 dollar... i talked with the owner of the company and he has had many people come into his shop with alpine type r woofers that switch out for arsenal series woofers, he says that they outperform the type r, so i could only imagine what the havoc models could do.... ok its 3:20 im going to bed. good luck
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 05:26:37
i think i'm convinced with a single jl audio 10w7 or 12w7 i'll be matching it with alpine mrd-501 mono i'll see if i'll go ported or sealed till now i'm not sure!!
many thanks experts ,,,
swez on 03/3/2006 09:34:50
We have a winner here folks!!! ding ding ding
As I was trying to point out, sometimes, Less is indeed More. Looks like Comp VR's story put the icing on the cake... thanks bud!
Swez COFFEE
PS Nice to see ya back at CK there Saint.. SMILE
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 16:34:54
one more thing ..... lol i didn't change my mind again .. don'y worry.
but one more thing just to make sure of everything is perfectly matched..
i have now the alpine mrd-501 mono and i'll be purchasing the jl audio 10w7 sub !! so i'll be willing to use the 500rms power of the amp on the sub........
so will my amp push 500 rms to the sub or wont.... cause in alpine mrd-501 mono it dosent say anything if it can push at 1.5 ohm like the jl audio 500/1 does: it can push 500rms from 1.5 ohm to 4 ohm at all conditions right!!!
please guide me to the best wiring for 1 alpine mrd-501 mono with single jl audio 10w7 sub to play 500rms.
sorry for being pain in the a**
many thanks
swez on 03/3/2006 16:41:26
I had a hard time figuring out if the W7 is a dual 3 ohm coil or some other configuration. The specs say 3 ohms and an Re of 2.6 ohms. (DC resistance is Re spec)
Can someone confirm from owning a W7, what this sub wiring option actually is? (I am leaning toward a dual 3+3 coil set here)
Please confirm, then I can answer your ???'sa
Swez
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 18:11:11
from the specs it's shown that's a 3 coil set and you can also adjust it to 1.5 ohm in the (pos+) and (neg-) terminal ...
compvr15s on 03/3/2006 18:45:04
i would not recommed runnin that amp at 1.5 omhs. if you have not yet got that amp and want something more like the jl 500/1. look into pheonix gold's xenon 600.1. 600 watts at 1-4omh load, pretty versitile for wiring up subs, can be had at much bettter cost than the 500/1..
only_tuning on 03/3/2006 19:03:12
i'm sorry to say that i already have the alpine mrd-501 mono amp
.............. so if i ran the amp on 3 ohm so it will only push 250-350 rms .. and if i pushed it to 1.5 ohm wiring, the amp won't handle it right !!!
FROWN
so what's the result if i installed them together( amp: alpine mrd-501 and sub: jl audio 10w7 ) at 3ohm and at 1.5 ohm..
compvr15s on 03/3/2006 20:42:30
at 3ohms you will prolly get 350 400 watts. at 1.5 you would probably get prolly 550-600 watts. but that amp is not rated for loads that low so i would not even bother to go that way, can void the warranty if anything bad happens ur pretty much SOL. with 400 watts and a ported enclosure that 10w7 will still give exellent performance in both sq and spl... i can not give an estimate, have to factor in cabin gain, eqs all of the other good stuff.... if it were me i would go with the JL slot port box, designed for the w7. im sure you will be overly happy with output.
swez on 03/3/2006 21:42:21
OK, I read a very lenthy and technical review from some guys at Car Audio & Elctronics. A few things noted here... these guys are fanatics about SQ bass performance and tested this sub (10W7-3) to its limits.
http://www.caraudiomag.com/testreports/0210cae_jla/
The short form comments were... loved it, great engineering design work and very solid in the deep lows and at $549.00 retail, they should be all of that.
While reading the JL specs, it seemed to me, this sub employs a 3 ohm SVC design. It is not a dual coil sub. That was a correct assumption.
Looking at this amp/sub paring, the 501 will likely deliver a solid 350 to 400 Wrms @ 3 ohms. (input voltage dependent) In the ported box design, it is likely to perform well in SQ and very well in SQL parameters. Go ported per JL design guidelines.
Swez
only_tuning on 03/4/2006 06:23:52
you know what i can go for alpine mrd-1001 mono and match it with jl audio 12w7 cause it will be go match if it's playing at 3ohm load. and it will deliver aprox 750 rms which will be perfect.
any advice!!!
cause it's easier to push 700 rms to jl audio 12w7 on alpine mrd-1001 mono at 3 ohm than pushing 550-600 rms on 1.5 ohm load at th 10w7 with alpine mrd-501 isn't it!!!
swez on 03/4/2006 15:25:21
The MRD-1001 is a bit strong for the W7 sub. Not only that, but current draw will likely cause most stock electricals some serious issues at full power. If you went this route, better go for a sealed box design. The air pressure inside the box will help keep the cone from going ballistic on you.
As for SQL, the 501/W7 is a good match in a ported design here. The efficiency of the port/vent, coupled with how many watts it takes to get the sub to X-max, are the key issues here. Once the sub reaches X-max, more power can damage the sub from over-excursion.
Swez
only_tuning on 03/4/2006 16:29:50
my plans are to go sealed cause i'll try the sub in a normal sealed box then if it's alright !!
then i'll do fiberglass custom box.
i'm not tring to be smart here but i'm just clearing my point if it's right :
i totaly understand that the amp will draw alot of power but i'll be using only 3 ohm of the alpine mrd-1001 mono so it wont be that hard in the amp to push the power and about the sub i guess as per the power chart rms handling of 12w7 it's best use of sub at 750rms .
will i be damging the sub .. if i'm going to install mrd-1001 mono , at 3 ohm , sealed box.
compvr15s on 03/4/2006 18:44:31
nah you should be fine as long as your elecrtical output can handle it. id say prolly 750-800 watts at 3omhs, and if you do go sealed im sure it will handle every bit of 900 or more, but no reason to over do it. the only advantage of going with the 1000 watt amp is that you will be jumping to the 12w7, should drop a lil lower and still sound very clean. if you aint experienced with setting ur gains, for the equipment u are using, may want to seek a professional for this, puttin out that kinda dough on a sub ya better make sure to make it last, give a lil too much bass booste or power and ur voice coils are gonna over heat and then u got major problems. good luck
swez on 03/5/2006 00:00:54
The sealed box is a good option if you have enough clean watts to bring the sub to full potentials, but not over-drive your amp or sub into distortion and clipping probems. This means careful gain setting on the MRD-1001 with your HU and using minimal bass boost at amp or HU.
This is why voltage readings off the amp are critical. (To sub at full power) A well tuned set of ears will tell if a sub is being stressed or the amp is putting out distortion values that are harmful to a sub.
Finally, the W7 is rated for 500 watts continous power input. The cooling features on this sub, do an excellent job pulling damaging heat away from the voice coil. It can take short spikes of wattage, well above 500 watts. But a constant test tone (continous, like a sine wave test tone) are very hard on any sub.
Swez
PS Keep this in mind as you install and set up your system!!!
only_tuning on 03/5/2006 06:40:07
i totally understand but the thing i don't want to go for a jl audio 10w7 with alpine mrd-501 is because i got already the mrd-757 alpine 2ch and push 2x200 rms for each sud i'm using alpine old type s 10inch at 4ohm.
and it's pushing already 400rms so that's why if im purchasing the 10w7 jl audio with alpine mrd-501 it wont be big diffrence only 100rms extra.
you know why know i'm insisting in going over 600rms...
Raefin on 03/5/2006 10:51:22
I can tell you that the 12w7 in the sealed enclosure can easily support 1000 watts rms. I have the 1000/1 powering the 12w7 in the prowedge enclosure. This is setup in a 2003 suburban. The power requirements are stiff though. I had to use 1/0 gauge wiring and add a second battery just to prevent the dimming with the stock alternator. The output from the sealed sub is enough that I cannot turn the volume over 3/4's without seriously hurting my ears.
Also, as an aside, without a licensed authorized JL audio installer for your JL gear the warranty is substantially decreased. I have already had my amps sent back twice for replacement during the 2-3 years I have owned them.
Realize that any of the w7 series should be loud enough for any normal use. Competition use is another animal. But for the w7's to work properly requires quite a large amount of power and you may well have issues with your stock electrical system due to the drain.
swez on 03/5/2006 11:06:06
Yes, that makes sense to me... you want more sub output than what is available now. (MRV-F757 & Alpine Type S subs) Use this amp later to power your front stage full range Comps or Coaxials.
If you really want that MRD-1001 for your JL W7, why not. Just understand you will need some major electrical upgrades and a heavy power feed line from BAT to amps, to give sufficient power to all amps used.
Say more please,
Swez
only_tuning on 03/5/2006 14:13:37
i'll explain why i'm insisting :
i had an expearince with alpines and i love their product and i'm familliar with them.......... i always wanted to try jl audio products and it's a high end brand and quality products ..
i willing to upgrade my system ......... so i wanted to try something new .. first what came to my mind is to combine jl audio products and alpine ...
so i wanted to use the jl audio 10w7 with alpine mrd-501 and its kind of un balanced .. cause the power is not enough when its at 3ohm for the sub and if i went at 1.5 ohm the alpine amp won't handel the load.
so i chanded the plan: one jl audio 12w7 and alpine mrd-1001 and the case was the sub wont handel the amp power i don't know why but i just follewed the experts advise to be in the safe side .. and i totally trust and respect the advice of the experts here..
so i need advice:
i'm willing to do upgrades if needed as long as i can reach to the best SQL.
all what i want is to combine jl audio subs or alpine subs and amps
i want to use over 500rms power
what's in mind :
A) use alpine mrd-501 with jl audio w7 subs. ( not possiable)
B) use alpine mrd-501 with one 12 or 10 new alpine type r subs
C) use alpine mrd-1001 with one jl audio 12w7 sub
D) use alpine mrd-1001 with 2 new alpine type r 10 or 12 subs
E) use alpine mrd-1001 with one type x 12 inch sub.
now need advice which it the best choice if i'll go sealed .. and which is the best choice to get best SQL ..
many many thanks to the experts.
compvr15s on 03/5/2006 15:29:41
you can go with plan a. just not going to get full potential out of the sub, but if you go with the power wedge box or whatever its called taht was designed for the w7 series, you will have more than enough power to operate that sub to its fullest, can still have good sql with ported box, and then u will have some room for an amp for your mids and highs without huge electrical upgrades
swez on 03/5/2006 19:47:26
To get what you really want, (based on many previous posts) option C is probably the best rig with the 12W7 in a sealed or ported enclosure. Sealed will give very good SQL. Ported will give more SPL, but less power is needed before the sub begins to reach or pass X-max performance. Some careful gain setting is required if you go ported and need a SS filter on the amp too.
The newer Alpine MRD-M1005 looks like a winner from research of Alpine products and manuals. I cannot locate .pdf's on the MRD-D1001 model. (might only be offered out of USA?)
http://www.stylestandard.net/oswego/Rooms/FrameMacro (see specifications on page 17)
As for electricals needed, the D1005 is fused at 80A. (20A x 4) The projected power this amp can deliver will be >700 Wrms, <850 Wrms, depending on input voltage @ a 3 ohm load. It also has a selectable SS filter. (15 or 30 Hz.) Perfect for a 32-35 Hz., Port tuned enclosure.
Looking ahead a bit, consider the Mid/Highs amp as part of your overall electrical package needs. The "Big 3" upgrade is a definite yes. A #2 gage kit would be best.
As for the ALT, will need enough juice for all main car electrical devices (60-75A) and enough reserve power for the amps used. That puts you between 175-200 amperes of power. A strong Optima BAT with 800 CCA #'s, should be used here to act as a current buffer. You might consider a 2.5-3.0 Farad Surge Cap, but I would forego that and put that into the BAT power reserves.
Swez
2
only_tuning on 03/6/2006 03:08:33
thank all the experts for all the best advice given to me . the specs of the alpine mrd-1001 is better cause it has better tweaking specs ... the heat sink of the amp is big it will stay more cool than the mrd-1005 ..
the only real advantage of the new alpine mrd-1005 is is compact in size if u compare it to the old mrd-1001.
so my final word: is to purchase 12w7 jl audio powering it with alpine mrd-1001 in a sealed box ... will be careful with the tweaking ..........
compvr15s on 03/6/2006 03:19:31
if the specs are the same, go for which ever you can get cheaper, at 3 omhs you are not gonna have to worry about overheating, if i had to guess it will stay fairly cool at all times... do you have your mind set on alpine amps, if not there are others out there for the same price or cheaper that give same perfromace or better, not trying to make u stray from alpine as they are very solid products but you are paying a lil extra for the name... if alpine is what you want by all means go with it, i would use it in my own installs, just trying to see if we can save a lil moeny
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