I went with the JL e4300 over the Alpine amp as per one of my previous posts. Now for the install.
Current set up:
Alpine CDA-9813
JBL BP300.1
Alpine SWR-1241D
6.5" JL TRseries coaxials.
and now a JL e4300 for the front stage. I will just be using the coaxials for now until I find the right set of componets and then I wil be moving my coaxials to the rear.
I will obviously be using 4awg wire to the amps. My question is when fuseing the distribution block you should add up the amount of fuses on my two amps right? In my case a 40A for the JL and 40A for the JBL. Therefore an 80A fuse would be used near the battery before the dist. block correct?
Also, is there any special way to hook up a dist. block? Does it need to be grounded etc? Ive hooked up a few amps but never had to use a dist. block.
Oh yah one more thing. Can I daisy chain the REM hook up from one amp directly to the other? Or should I run two separate REM wires?
Thanks for the help,
Jay
Replies (8)
MrBrownstone on 02/23/2006 00:55:42
Answers
Remote Wire?
sure..although after you get to about 4 pieces of equipment, you may need to relay to do that job as the head unit doesn't have enough power to turn on a large number of electronic devices.
Special Way to hook up Dist Block?
Basically you should have a distribution block for Positive and Negative.
Adding the Fuses?
Yes. Although you can have the fuse at the battery be significantly higher, and have the fuses in the distribution block be smaller.
swez on 02/23/2006 06:24:01
Agreed... well, almost.
1. Daisy chain REMotes for only 2 amps... Fine here
2. Fuse at BAT... 80 -100A is fine for #4 gage wire
3. D block on power line to amps, yes! If you go fused, a pair of 40A fuses are fine or a single 80A will do, depending on the D block design. Warning!!! DO NOT GROUND THIS BLOCK!!!
4. You can use a D-block for your ground wires if you like. NO FUSES on this one however. NEVER USE FUSED D-BLOCKS ON GROUNDS!!!
4a. You can also employ a simple nuts, washers and bolt grounding stud, mounted to bare metal ground in the floor board. This will do the same thing and only costs $2.50 at any hardware store. If you want a rust free post, use stainless steel hardware. (a few bucks more, but will never rust out)
1 1/4" x 20 x 1-1/4" stove or hex head bolt
3 1/4" x 20 nuts
2-3 1/4" flat washers
Here, we drill a 5/16" hole in the floor pan. (make sure you know where the drill bit will exit... don't hit the gas tank, fuel or brake lines or electrical harnesses. (Grab a buddy to spot for you, his extra hands will come in handy on the next steps too)
Now, scrap/sand top and bottom surfaces of the hole to bear metal. (1" dia is good nuff)
Then, make a sandwich... Bolt head with 1 flatwasher, inserted from below the the pre-drilled hole. Have the buddy add a flat washer and nut to your bolt and torque it down snug.
There's your grounding stud, bud. Attach ground wires from amps to the new stud and snug it down with a socket or adjustable metric wrench. Viola... it's done and good to go. USFLAG
How's that sound to you?
Swez
PS When doing wires like this, make sure the fuse at the BAT is pulled out. That is the last thing to re-install, before firing up your system again.
LC1 on 02/23/2006 12:06:34
I probably will run 4ga wire to the amps. However, since I will only be using my 300wrms sub amp and the front to channels on the JL amp would it be alright to just use the 8ga wire I have now? I have read somewhere before that 8ga wire can handle approx 450wrms and the sub its 300 and the 2ch is about 100 so woudl that be alright?
thanks
jay
swez on 02/23/2006 14:59:57
Both amps can be run fine on short #8 feeds. The #8 is rated for 50A max. Since both amps are fused at 40A each, both amps only need #8 B+ and grounds. That's why it's best to use a D-block to split the #4 into a pair of #8's.
Swez
LC1 on 02/23/2006 18:06:16
Sound good, thanks for the help. Also one last thing, would something like welding wire work for power to the Dblock? I can get industrial wire such as welding wire or other fine stranded wire for dirt cheap at work. I can get it a 4awg.
Thanks again, and I will let you know how the install goes this weekend...weather permitting.
Jay
swez on 02/24/2006 12:16:15
Others have used welding cables for main power feeder wires. It's a lot cheaper than branded Power cables. The only thing to know, is the resistance value per linear foot of the cable you choose.
The lower the resistance per foot, the better. It is a rule of thumb to note a <0.5 volts drop from the BAT to D-block. If you have more than 0.5 volts loss, the amps are not getting enough juice due to line losses.
(High resistance wiring)
Swez
LC1 on 02/27/2006 19:55:06
Well I went out this weekend and bought some 4awg Phoenix Gold power wire (got a good deal on it $2/ft), distribution block and some odds and ends. After freezing in the cold for a few hrs taking my car apart to run the wires I finally got my 4ch amp hooked with my mono amp.
Everything is all hooked and sounds great. For appox. $75 in parts and my time it sure beats paying somebody else to do it for me. Feels good cranking it up and knowing that I installed it.
Thanks for the help.... again
Jay
swez on 02/27/2006 22:58:59
Atta boy, glad you handled things and beat back the cold weather too. Nothing like a well done DIY project and saving some green in the process.
Good work bud,
Swez
PS if you have a few bucks left over, car to donate a few beans to CK? We are getting low on operating funds and need some financial support to keep the site going. Thanks in advance!
Current set up:
Alpine CDA-9813
JBL BP300.1
Alpine SWR-1241D
6.5" JL TRseries coaxials.
and now a JL e4300 for the front stage. I will just be using the coaxials for now until I find the right set of componets and then I wil be moving my coaxials to the rear.
I will obviously be using 4awg wire to the amps. My question is when fuseing the distribution block you should add up the amount of fuses on my two amps right? In my case a 40A for the JL and 40A for the JBL. Therefore an 80A fuse would be used near the battery before the dist. block correct?
Also, is there any special way to hook up a dist. block? Does it need to be grounded etc? Ive hooked up a few amps but never had to use a dist. block.
Oh yah one more thing. Can I daisy chain the REM hook up from one amp directly to the other? Or should I run two separate REM wires?
Thanks for the help,
Jay
Replies (8)
MrBrownstone on 02/23/2006 00:55:42
Answers
Remote Wire?
sure..although after you get to about 4 pieces of equipment, you may need to relay to do that job as the head unit doesn't have enough power to turn on a large number of electronic devices.
Special Way to hook up Dist Block?
Basically you should have a distribution block for Positive and Negative.
Adding the Fuses?
Yes. Although you can have the fuse at the battery be significantly higher, and have the fuses in the distribution block be smaller.
swez on 02/23/2006 06:24:01
Agreed... well, almost.
1. Daisy chain REMotes for only 2 amps... Fine here
2. Fuse at BAT... 80 -100A is fine for #4 gage wire
3. D block on power line to amps, yes! If you go fused, a pair of 40A fuses are fine or a single 80A will do, depending on the D block design. Warning!!! DO NOT GROUND THIS BLOCK!!!
4. You can use a D-block for your ground wires if you like. NO FUSES on this one however. NEVER USE FUSED D-BLOCKS ON GROUNDS!!!
4a. You can also employ a simple nuts, washers and bolt grounding stud, mounted to bare metal ground in the floor board. This will do the same thing and only costs $2.50 at any hardware store. If you want a rust free post, use stainless steel hardware. (a few bucks more, but will never rust out)
1 1/4" x 20 x 1-1/4" stove or hex head bolt
3 1/4" x 20 nuts
2-3 1/4" flat washers
Here, we drill a 5/16" hole in the floor pan. (make sure you know where the drill bit will exit... don't hit the gas tank, fuel or brake lines or electrical harnesses. (Grab a buddy to spot for you, his extra hands will come in handy on the next steps too)
Now, scrap/sand top and bottom surfaces of the hole to bear metal. (1" dia is good nuff)
Then, make a sandwich... Bolt head with 1 flatwasher, inserted from below the the pre-drilled hole. Have the buddy add a flat washer and nut to your bolt and torque it down snug.
There's your grounding stud, bud. Attach ground wires from amps to the new stud and snug it down with a socket or adjustable metric wrench. Viola... it's done and good to go. USFLAG
How's that sound to you?
Swez
PS When doing wires like this, make sure the fuse at the BAT is pulled out. That is the last thing to re-install, before firing up your system again.
LC1 on 02/23/2006 12:06:34
I probably will run 4ga wire to the amps. However, since I will only be using my 300wrms sub amp and the front to channels on the JL amp would it be alright to just use the 8ga wire I have now? I have read somewhere before that 8ga wire can handle approx 450wrms and the sub its 300 and the 2ch is about 100 so woudl that be alright?
thanks
jay
swez on 02/23/2006 14:59:57
Both amps can be run fine on short #8 feeds. The #8 is rated for 50A max. Since both amps are fused at 40A each, both amps only need #8 B+ and grounds. That's why it's best to use a D-block to split the #4 into a pair of #8's.
Swez
LC1 on 02/23/2006 18:06:16
Sound good, thanks for the help. Also one last thing, would something like welding wire work for power to the Dblock? I can get industrial wire such as welding wire or other fine stranded wire for dirt cheap at work. I can get it a 4awg.
Thanks again, and I will let you know how the install goes this weekend...weather permitting.
Jay
swez on 02/24/2006 12:16:15
Others have used welding cables for main power feeder wires. It's a lot cheaper than branded Power cables. The only thing to know, is the resistance value per linear foot of the cable you choose.
The lower the resistance per foot, the better. It is a rule of thumb to note a <0.5 volts drop from the BAT to D-block. If you have more than 0.5 volts loss, the amps are not getting enough juice due to line losses.
(High resistance wiring)
Swez
LC1 on 02/27/2006 19:55:06
Well I went out this weekend and bought some 4awg Phoenix Gold power wire (got a good deal on it $2/ft), distribution block and some odds and ends. After freezing in the cold for a few hrs taking my car apart to run the wires I finally got my 4ch amp hooked with my mono amp.
Everything is all hooked and sounds great. For appox. $75 in parts and my time it sure beats paying somebody else to do it for me. Feels good cranking it up and knowing that I installed it.
Thanks for the help.... again
Jay
swez on 02/27/2006 22:58:59
Atta boy, glad you handled things and beat back the cold weather too. Nothing like a well done DIY project and saving some green in the process.
Good work bud,
Swez
PS if you have a few bucks left over, car to donate a few beans to CK? We are getting low on operating funds and need some financial support to keep the site going. Thanks in advance!
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
