I am currently purchasing products for a new and improved system. I Know little about installation and a great deal about high quality products. 1 Kicker 06S10l7 in a custom sealed box made to fit behind my seat(single cab Dakota) powered by 1 JL Audio 500/1 amp. 1 set MB Quart PCE-216 & 1 set PCE-213 components powered by a JL Audio 300/4 amp. I already own an Alpine 9851 HU. I was potentially going to power components with Alpine MRV-F345 instead of JL to save a couple bucks. To me this system is done (besides wiring and kits) Do I need anything els or do I need to make some changes. Thanks for any input.
Replies (11)
ttocs on 02/9/2006 11:14:52
it sounds good on paper... You will have to be the final judge if it sounds good er not. A system how ever is NEVER done, only sold...
demetman on 02/9/2006 11:35:11
After reading info on electric sytem upgrades(battery & alternator) do you have any suggestions. I have decided to have the JL Audio 500/1 professionally installed due to complicated tuning requirements, not having the installation exp and the fact that a car audio shop is building a box for my L7. Monady morning my truck with be dropped off. They are charging me $550. for box fab, L7 sub and JL 500/1 install. This equipment is a done deal, however I have not purchased other for mentioned equip yet. I talked to the guy at the shop let him know what additional equip I was interested in and asked for the best pricing. He made notes on my invoice and will discuss with me on Mon. Thank You
demetman on 02/9/2006 11:42:07
ttocs, After the initial investment of $550. I am willing to invest another $1200 or so. I am trying to make educated decisions on the highest quality equip for my budget. I have joined this site for expert advise and my ears are open for any suggestions. Any help is more than greatly appreciated.
demet
swez on 02/9/2006 15:16:59
As ttocs said, on paper... all your gear adds up to a fine system.
However, the install and tweaking process make up about 70-80% of the net results. All the JL products noted are some of the best gear out there from a single Mfg. So far, everything mentioned is on the right track.
Since you don't have this experience to date, it may be best to let experienced hands do the work for you. Yes, it costs more that way... but at least you will have recourse if something goes wrong later. That's a big plus if this shop is an "Authorized" JL dealer.
Swez
demetman on 02/9/2006 19:20:37
This particular shop is an "authorized" JL dealer, however I for the first time purchased the JL/500 online new from a distributer. This may be a "grey" subject however I saved $180.00. I can save an additional $200.00 if I purchase the JL 300/4 on line as well. I guess what my question is-what is the ethical approach to buying products online (gray market) with distributer warranty and asking a car audio shop to install? I will be spending a good chunk of change with the audio shop for other products and installation.
demet
swez on 02/10/2006 12:23:39
That's a tough call. Many of the better Online sellers will offer an in-house warrantee. They get the amp fixed on their own dime and you may have to wait it out.
Talk to your planned installer and get his opinion on the matter. The shop may honor any install related problems that arise, but not the amps, if they were not purchased there. However, a qualified JL installer should know what to do and most JL products are pretty much bullet proof, when installed properly and used within product design guidelines.
Comments?
Swez
demetman on 02/11/2006 00:24:06
Swez, thanks for the reply. This has been a subject that has been on my mind for the past couple of weeks now. My JL 500/1 arrived today from onlinecarstereo and I am scheduled for installation Mon morning. The guys at the shop know what other equipment I am interested in and you can bet I did my research. I have priced everything online and located best pricing(onlinecarsrereo & sonicelectronic) Everything is specked out on paper with questions I will be asking. The products I have purchased from the car audio shop in the past were at list prices, so I have come to find out. If they can give me a break and come close to internet prices I will be loyal to them and have them do my whole install. I read the JL 500/1 manual cover to cover twice tonight(some very complicated areas to considerin in there!) Anyway I appreciate your responces and your extreme knowledge in electronics and car audio. I am here to learn as much as possible and some day maybe give advice to someone eager to learn. When you have a chance could you check out my subject Help on removing HU amp and installation. thanks
demet
demetman on 02/16/2006 23:57:15
Installation of 1 JL Audio 300/2 powering 1 set of A/D/S 346cs 6 1/2" component speakers, and JL 500/1 powering an 0610L7 in a custom sealed small enclosure has been comlete. JL wiring kit and connections. Sound in my truck is insane! Kicker sub is starting to pund as it breaks in rather quickly. A/D/S speakers are a gift from above. I strongly reccomend above mentioned products.
swez on 02/17/2006 06:21:38
That's good to hear... another install CK project in the bag!
The system you noted should be exceptional in performance after all is well tweaked and the sub breaks in properly too. Funny thing, the L7 sub is more for SPL applications. However, it's a stout performer in SQL, when used in sealed designs. As long as you get the deep lows and tight upper bass, that's all that matters.
A/D/S/ Comps should be right up there with Diamond, Focal and MB Quartz. Not many use A/D/S due to the prices, but a fine set of Comps never the less.
About the "gray market" purchases... as long as you do get a good warranty plan and the seller stands behind it, (if needed) that's what matters most. Paying list or full boat retail is usually negotiable with local shops, that are hungry for biz. It may be harder at high priced Audio Salons that cater to the "Audio SNOBS" and are used to getting no challenges on pricing.
However, there is often a substantial markup on most products to cover overheads, sales commissions and labor. Not as much % on amps like JL, but the wiring kits and various hardware markups can be 300% or more.
Depending on the region you live in, many shops are pretty slow after Christmas and through March/April. This is where the "savvy" shopper can apply some pressure. "If you want my biz, make me a deal I cannot refuse". If they are slow, they bow to that pressure, if they know the local competition is offering a better deal. (that's our job as consumers) Find out what other dealers are charging for various products and services. It can vary a lot from zip code to zip code.
Enjoy your new system and the CK site, CLAP
Swez
demetman on 02/18/2006 00:54:01
Swez, the system in my truck had been installed professionally by a local privately runned car audio shop. I did my research well and learned as much as possible about the products I was interested in purchasing. The shop owner definately worked with me on pricing and complete installation of products mentioned above. I am happy. Just a couple of quick questions for you. My head lights blink when I crank it up for short periods of time.(especially when listening to heavy bass material) I would like to purchas an optima battery to boost electrical sysyem. Should I look into upgrading my alternator as well? So far no parts store or auto shop could tell me stock alternator output for my truck. My battery puts out 550 cc. Any input is appreciated. Also is it ok to crank up the volume of my system for short periods of time while my sub is breaking in. I can't help myself, I don't hear any real distortion. What is your recommendation on breaking in my SL10. I was told not to go more than 3/4 volume for a week. There has to be a more detailed explanation of breaking in a sub Thanks, demet
swez on 02/18/2006 05:51:38
A larger CCA rated BAT should help a lot here. Figure about 800 CCA will do the job, if you can fit it in the tray. If that 550 is stock, must be a small engine and ALT too?
Also, upgrading "The Big 3" Wires", will help get maximum power transfer. We have a link in this site for that info in pictorial format. Figure #4 gage wires added to your stock lines, all is well.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g3481_2026
Breaking in a sub? I have read a number of ways to do this. The most logical one I have read, was to hang the sub in free air, (no enclosure) and run a loop of low frequency tones at various power levels for 8-12 hours. However, since the sub is already installed, getting a copy of "Bass Mechanix" sub testing CD, should do the trick. There are other Bass testing CD's too. Look for the post in this site that has lots of "Bass Songs" people use to test and evaluate their subs.
Hope that helps,
Swez
Replies (11)
ttocs on 02/9/2006 11:14:52
it sounds good on paper... You will have to be the final judge if it sounds good er not. A system how ever is NEVER done, only sold...
demetman on 02/9/2006 11:35:11
After reading info on electric sytem upgrades(battery & alternator) do you have any suggestions. I have decided to have the JL Audio 500/1 professionally installed due to complicated tuning requirements, not having the installation exp and the fact that a car audio shop is building a box for my L7. Monady morning my truck with be dropped off. They are charging me $550. for box fab, L7 sub and JL 500/1 install. This equipment is a done deal, however I have not purchased other for mentioned equip yet. I talked to the guy at the shop let him know what additional equip I was interested in and asked for the best pricing. He made notes on my invoice and will discuss with me on Mon. Thank You
demetman on 02/9/2006 11:42:07
ttocs, After the initial investment of $550. I am willing to invest another $1200 or so. I am trying to make educated decisions on the highest quality equip for my budget. I have joined this site for expert advise and my ears are open for any suggestions. Any help is more than greatly appreciated.
demet
swez on 02/9/2006 15:16:59
As ttocs said, on paper... all your gear adds up to a fine system.
However, the install and tweaking process make up about 70-80% of the net results. All the JL products noted are some of the best gear out there from a single Mfg. So far, everything mentioned is on the right track.
Since you don't have this experience to date, it may be best to let experienced hands do the work for you. Yes, it costs more that way... but at least you will have recourse if something goes wrong later. That's a big plus if this shop is an "Authorized" JL dealer.
Swez
demetman on 02/9/2006 19:20:37
This particular shop is an "authorized" JL dealer, however I for the first time purchased the JL/500 online new from a distributer. This may be a "grey" subject however I saved $180.00. I can save an additional $200.00 if I purchase the JL 300/4 on line as well. I guess what my question is-what is the ethical approach to buying products online (gray market) with distributer warranty and asking a car audio shop to install? I will be spending a good chunk of change with the audio shop for other products and installation.
demet
swez on 02/10/2006 12:23:39
That's a tough call. Many of the better Online sellers will offer an in-house warrantee. They get the amp fixed on their own dime and you may have to wait it out.
Talk to your planned installer and get his opinion on the matter. The shop may honor any install related problems that arise, but not the amps, if they were not purchased there. However, a qualified JL installer should know what to do and most JL products are pretty much bullet proof, when installed properly and used within product design guidelines.
Comments?
Swez
demetman on 02/11/2006 00:24:06
Swez, thanks for the reply. This has been a subject that has been on my mind for the past couple of weeks now. My JL 500/1 arrived today from onlinecarstereo and I am scheduled for installation Mon morning. The guys at the shop know what other equipment I am interested in and you can bet I did my research. I have priced everything online and located best pricing(onlinecarsrereo & sonicelectronic) Everything is specked out on paper with questions I will be asking. The products I have purchased from the car audio shop in the past were at list prices, so I have come to find out. If they can give me a break and come close to internet prices I will be loyal to them and have them do my whole install. I read the JL 500/1 manual cover to cover twice tonight(some very complicated areas to considerin in there!) Anyway I appreciate your responces and your extreme knowledge in electronics and car audio. I am here to learn as much as possible and some day maybe give advice to someone eager to learn. When you have a chance could you check out my subject Help on removing HU amp and installation. thanks
demet
demetman on 02/16/2006 23:57:15
Installation of 1 JL Audio 300/2 powering 1 set of A/D/S 346cs 6 1/2" component speakers, and JL 500/1 powering an 0610L7 in a custom sealed small enclosure has been comlete. JL wiring kit and connections. Sound in my truck is insane! Kicker sub is starting to pund as it breaks in rather quickly. A/D/S speakers are a gift from above. I strongly reccomend above mentioned products.
swez on 02/17/2006 06:21:38
That's good to hear... another install CK project in the bag!
The system you noted should be exceptional in performance after all is well tweaked and the sub breaks in properly too. Funny thing, the L7 sub is more for SPL applications. However, it's a stout performer in SQL, when used in sealed designs. As long as you get the deep lows and tight upper bass, that's all that matters.
A/D/S/ Comps should be right up there with Diamond, Focal and MB Quartz. Not many use A/D/S due to the prices, but a fine set of Comps never the less.
About the "gray market" purchases... as long as you do get a good warranty plan and the seller stands behind it, (if needed) that's what matters most. Paying list or full boat retail is usually negotiable with local shops, that are hungry for biz. It may be harder at high priced Audio Salons that cater to the "Audio SNOBS" and are used to getting no challenges on pricing.
However, there is often a substantial markup on most products to cover overheads, sales commissions and labor. Not as much % on amps like JL, but the wiring kits and various hardware markups can be 300% or more.
Depending on the region you live in, many shops are pretty slow after Christmas and through March/April. This is where the "savvy" shopper can apply some pressure. "If you want my biz, make me a deal I cannot refuse". If they are slow, they bow to that pressure, if they know the local competition is offering a better deal. (that's our job as consumers) Find out what other dealers are charging for various products and services. It can vary a lot from zip code to zip code.
Enjoy your new system and the CK site, CLAP
Swez
demetman on 02/18/2006 00:54:01
Swez, the system in my truck had been installed professionally by a local privately runned car audio shop. I did my research well and learned as much as possible about the products I was interested in purchasing. The shop owner definately worked with me on pricing and complete installation of products mentioned above. I am happy. Just a couple of quick questions for you. My head lights blink when I crank it up for short periods of time.(especially when listening to heavy bass material) I would like to purchas an optima battery to boost electrical sysyem. Should I look into upgrading my alternator as well? So far no parts store or auto shop could tell me stock alternator output for my truck. My battery puts out 550 cc. Any input is appreciated. Also is it ok to crank up the volume of my system for short periods of time while my sub is breaking in. I can't help myself, I don't hear any real distortion. What is your recommendation on breaking in my SL10. I was told not to go more than 3/4 volume for a week. There has to be a more detailed explanation of breaking in a sub Thanks, demet
swez on 02/18/2006 05:51:38
A larger CCA rated BAT should help a lot here. Figure about 800 CCA will do the job, if you can fit it in the tray. If that 550 is stock, must be a small engine and ALT too?
Also, upgrading "The Big 3" Wires", will help get maximum power transfer. We have a link in this site for that info in pictorial format. Figure #4 gage wires added to your stock lines, all is well.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g3481_2026
Breaking in a sub? I have read a number of ways to do this. The most logical one I have read, was to hang the sub in free air, (no enclosure) and run a loop of low frequency tones at various power levels for 8-12 hours. However, since the sub is already installed, getting a copy of "Bass Mechanix" sub testing CD, should do the trick. There are other Bass testing CD's too. Look for the post in this site that has lots of "Bass Songs" people use to test and evaluate their subs.
Hope that helps,
Swez
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