Hey, I just started my interest in installing car audio but I don't really know where to start. I've tried google and only have found sites that tell me how to install,which is useful, but uncesiary since I don't want to ruin any equipment because I don't know what I'm doing. Anyways, where would be a good place to gain a basic knowledge of things having to do with car audio?
Example, my friend is selling me a 400 watt amp for $90.
It's a year old and alittle banged up. Is there any way I can test it out before I buy it? What is the maximum allowed wattage(for my sub(s)) I can use with this amp? When I get subs, should I buy a sub/box deal? Will a standard box fit into a Pontiac Sunfire(which is temporary, I'll be getting a Firebird soon, but I figure if I start experimenting with audio equipment the Sunfire would be the best to do it with)?
I'm not looking for anything to ruin my hearing with, just something that will sound nice and occasionly get loud. Thank you for your time.
Replies (23)
jazzbass on 01/27/2006 01:27:15
Best thing to do is read the articles on this forum for a start. Lots of good info there.
As far as the amp is concerned, what brand is it? Is the wattage rating RMS (which is the way to determine the actual power and amp can put out) or is it max or dynamic power, which can usually be overrated, even by reputable brands. Can you afford to lose $90? I'm not trying to down your friend, he could be the nicest guy on earth, but people tend to overlook shortcomings in the process of making a sale. Nothing puts a sour taste in your mouth faster than a disagreement over money in friendship.
As far as what fits what, check out www.crutchfield.com, they have one of the best fit guides in the business built right into their website. When their equipment is on sale you can get good deals, but their regular prices tend to be a little higher than some (bear in mind though that they are factory authorized on everything they sell so there wont be any warranty issues should you have a problem, they also include things like fit kits and harness adapters as freebies, consider the total cost).
Have fun!
seth on 01/27/2006 15:20:59
It's an audiobahn a400t. Does anyone know about the quality of this amp?
swez on 01/27/2006 17:59:41
That's an Intake series Bahn 4 channel amp. (circa 2003-4) Not a bad starter amp for Mid/highs, but not a great choice for subs. Look it up in the Intake Amp series part of the site:
www.audiobahninc.com
Am thinking this amp is 50 x 4 RMS @ 4 ohms. I'd offer him $75.00 after you test it out.
Swez
Tinker18 on 01/27/2006 20:57:40
i find it ironic that you came to us to ask us how you can learn about car audio.
let me put it this way,
you have come to one of the best sites on the web for help, as myself, swez, and the other golds and users here each have our own specialties, while father time seems to know everything about car audio, you'd swear he invented it.
now, anything you may have to ask, you should make a point of asking it here,
its very easy in the beginning to get "fooled" into overpaying for something.
bear in mind, this is like buying a car, just because an amp says it has 1000 watts and you can get it for 50 bucks, doesnt mean its true.
Rule #1: Advertising is not always truth, don't give it the benefit of the doubt. buy from reputable brands. ask about them here to find out whats a good or bad choice.
Rule #2: If you decide to buy online, buy from an authorized dealer. someone who is "authorized" by that brand to sell their products on the web. It will say so on the website, if it doesnt then they aren't.
Rule #3: Research, i can't stress this enough to you. ask questions, no question is stupid, and theres an answer for everything. hang out around this forum, ask questions, learn, answer the questions you think you can.
Rule #4: If you buy in person at a store, don't let the salesman sell you something, make your own choices. ask about a product for information on it sure, but if he goes into how great it is or whatever, ignore it. most salesman are interested in one thing and one thing only. money, afterall they work on commision.
-thought i might give you some friendly advice as these are a few of the mistakes many beginners have to learn the hard way, its much better if someone points them out to you before hand.
Welcoem to the forum
Tink
seth on 01/27/2006 23:46:45
Thanks for the help everyone, you all seem very helpful.
I don't think I'm going to buy that amp from my friend.
I took a look at this : http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zgwafp9nTSB/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=208250&I=700MXART12
It seems like a really good deal, it comes with everything but the wires but it seems alittle too good to be true. Should I just get this :http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zgwafp9nTSB/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=208250&I=7007252W3 and buy a box too?
jazzbass on 01/28/2006 01:34:30
You could also do this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6joGp1JT8fe/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&I=1081040W
With this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6joGp1JT8fe/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=500MRPM350
Get the two fer deal on the subs, wire them in parallel creating a 2 ohm load to get the full 350 watts out of the amp and have a little bit of money leftover to put towards wiring or an enclosure. IMO, arguably a better set of components than either of the other choices.
seth on 01/28/2006 13:48:35
Those infinity subs look like a good deal, thanks for sharing them.
However, I like to get the best bargain. If my friend's amp works, the audiobahn a4004t, should I buy it because I'm not 100% if it's compatible with the subs.
I found some specs, but I'm not sure what I should be focused on
http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Audiobahn_A4004T
thanks again!
swez on 01/28/2006 14:13:31
The Infinity Reference Series subs are a very good low budget sub. They handle 250 Wrms/ea. and are 4 ohm SVC's. That makes the wiring job much easier.
That amp is compatible with your subs when bridging front L&R for one sub, and bridging Rear L&R for other sub. It has 200 watts RMS power in bridged mode @ 4 ohms. A solid start!!!
The good news is, this amp can be used for subs now and swapped for a larger Class D amp later. (as cash permits) Then, oyu can use the Bahn amp to power Mid/high speakers later. The best part is the low price for this amp... assuming it works properly as is.
Swez
PS Thanks for the kind comments Tink... No, did not invent audio, but have studied it in great detail and have a few years of "hands on" experience as well.
The hard part is getting newbies to either listen and follow directions as given or take up the torch as YOU (and many others here have) and learn more on ones' own accord.
That's why we have so many Golds here & now... they have made it a passion to learn and pass on what they know. We have some very talented folks here. Some are Installers, some are Custom enclsoure fabricators, some are great shoppers and others have a broad range of general knowledge and troubleshooting experience.
IMHO, this is one of the best sites on the web for newbies and seasoned veterans to ply their skills. It just works so well as a community huh? Am proud to be a part of this team!!! USFLAG
seth on 01/29/2006 01:37:58
Alright, I was looking around and found this amp for $120 new:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6982107&type=product&cmp=++&id=1099388426341
It's more powerful than the other one I was going to buy but I am not sure if it's good or not.
As far as boxes are concerned, should I look for a specific type? I just want one I can stick in my trunk behind the backseat. Doesn't need to look fancy.
swez on 01/29/2006 11:31:35
This is adequate for your subs with >300 Wrms @ 2 ohms. Pioneer is most noted for their HU's and the Premier series speakers and subs. Amps, are not cutting edge, but very low cost if one has a tight budget.
To keep space constraints in mind, go sealed on your Infinity subs. Can get very good (daily driver) bass here, in a small, sealed box design. The Ref 1040W (10" woofer) is spec'd for 0.75 cf/sub, internal air space. That's a pretty compact design.
The next question here, would be the space you have available for a sub enclosure? Ideally, in trunk installs, the subs are firing toward the rear bumper. To get this to work well, it takes a 12-13" H & W space, under the rear deck. What are the overall H, W & D dimensions you have available in this trunk?
Swez
seth on 02/26/2006 19:18:33
Alright, I ordered a new pair of 6 x 9s, but I don't know how to take out my current ones. Does anyone know where I can find instructions online or can help me out? I have a 95 pontiac sunfire sedan. Tahnk you.
ryan2 on 02/26/2006 20:32:24
I dotn know if the sedans are they same as coupes but i'll try to help. This should be easy though.
#1 Speakers arent covered and in plain view.
Go in the trunk and look up to where your 6X9's are. Are there screws showing? If so unscrew them and the pull the speakers out from the interior of the car. Or pop off grill from the inside of the car and unscrew the speaker.
#2 Speakers are hidden under the carpeted rear deck
Pull down the back seats. Pop off the two plastic edge pieces covering up the metal on each side. There should be slits in the carpeted board so remove the seatbelts out from it. Now carefully pull out the carpeted rear deck and now unscrew the speakers and pull them out.
I hope this makes sense
ttocs on 02/26/2006 23:34:50
here is where myself and a couple others come in. I don't know diddly about products other then if I like them after I install them. I have not been in one of those for a while, but more then likely install is cake. Look inside the trunk at the rear deck and they are normally held in by something resembling a coat hanger holding them in. Push on the end and slide it out from the hanger and it will drop out(keep yer face out from under it if your laying in the trunk). To mount them it is best to ditch the coat hanger, and use some short self tapping screws to mount them from the rear deck.
seth on 02/27/2006 16:27:05
The only way I can get to my speakers it by taking the carpet thing off first. I've gotten to screws out, I just don't how to get the seatbelts from getting in the way.
ryan2 on 02/27/2006 23:49:09
I probably didnt make myself totally clear since its easier to show then tell. So i'll try it this way.
You dotn need to take the whole seat belt out. Just the strap. But thats easy. Where the staps goes into the rear deck in the carpet thing there should be a slit in the carpet to where you can get the strap out of the way and pull the carpeted piece out.
Also I forgot there arent any screws holding in the 6x9's its just that plastic baffle that ttocs was talking about.
JMB on 02/28/2006 00:46:27
Welcome Seth U have should find plenty or help and usefull tips at CK.
Bonsa Mate
ttocs on 02/28/2006 10:49:29
if there are no screws, you should not have to take the rear deck out.
ryan2 on 03/1/2006 12:34:07
Ttocs and seth. You have the metal rear deck which holds the 6X9's. Took get the 6X9's out you have to also take out the plastic baffle that holds the 6x9's in place. So you pop out the plastic baffle and lift the baffle and 6X9's out. But the problem is the 6x9's are hidden so you have take the carpet piece out first that hides the 6x9's and metal rear deck.
seth on 03/3/2006 19:04:34
Alright thanks for all of your help. I installed them, although it was hard, I was succesful. Now I need help installing front speakers. I need to get the window crank off but it's really difficult. There is no clip like normal. I think i'm just going to have to pry it out but I'm not sure. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.
ryan2 on 03/4/2006 12:52:51
Please edit your last post since this is a rated G site thanks. There is a clip. You need to buy a door handle remover from your local hardware store.
This is how the door handle is installed (so you have an idea what im about to say) You have the plastic door and a hole were the door handle connects. But first theres a thin plastic circular piece you put over the hole and then you connect the door handle.
Now take the door handle remover and place it between the door handle and that small plastic piece. Now push up till the clip pops up or out and then you can pull the door handle off.
seth on 03/4/2006 13:11:31
I edited my last question, sorry about the profanity.
What would you recomond if one does not have a door handle removal tool? If I was to buy a tool for that, what is it's "official" name?
ryan2 on 03/5/2006 12:36:15
I think its just called a door handle remover. You might be able to get the clip out by using to flat head screwdrivers but it will probably be difficult. Just go to your local hardware store like Truevalue, Bumper to Bumper, Ace, Autozone, Menards, etc. and tell them your looking for a door handle remover. I think mine cost like $5.
seth on 03/14/2006 21:58:11
I installed my speakers but they have NO BASS what so ever. I think I'm going to man up and put some subs in. My friend is making me a deal but I don't know if it's good or not.
He's selling me two of these:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15156
A Pyramid amp to power them(not sure what model)
and a wiring kit for $175
Good deal?
Thanks for your help.
Example, my friend is selling me a 400 watt amp for $90.
It's a year old and alittle banged up. Is there any way I can test it out before I buy it? What is the maximum allowed wattage(for my sub(s)) I can use with this amp? When I get subs, should I buy a sub/box deal? Will a standard box fit into a Pontiac Sunfire(which is temporary, I'll be getting a Firebird soon, but I figure if I start experimenting with audio equipment the Sunfire would be the best to do it with)?
I'm not looking for anything to ruin my hearing with, just something that will sound nice and occasionly get loud. Thank you for your time.
Replies (23)
jazzbass on 01/27/2006 01:27:15
Best thing to do is read the articles on this forum for a start. Lots of good info there.
As far as the amp is concerned, what brand is it? Is the wattage rating RMS (which is the way to determine the actual power and amp can put out) or is it max or dynamic power, which can usually be overrated, even by reputable brands. Can you afford to lose $90? I'm not trying to down your friend, he could be the nicest guy on earth, but people tend to overlook shortcomings in the process of making a sale. Nothing puts a sour taste in your mouth faster than a disagreement over money in friendship.
As far as what fits what, check out www.crutchfield.com, they have one of the best fit guides in the business built right into their website. When their equipment is on sale you can get good deals, but their regular prices tend to be a little higher than some (bear in mind though that they are factory authorized on everything they sell so there wont be any warranty issues should you have a problem, they also include things like fit kits and harness adapters as freebies, consider the total cost).
Have fun!
seth on 01/27/2006 15:20:59
It's an audiobahn a400t. Does anyone know about the quality of this amp?
swez on 01/27/2006 17:59:41
That's an Intake series Bahn 4 channel amp. (circa 2003-4) Not a bad starter amp for Mid/highs, but not a great choice for subs. Look it up in the Intake Amp series part of the site:
www.audiobahninc.com
Am thinking this amp is 50 x 4 RMS @ 4 ohms. I'd offer him $75.00 after you test it out.
Swez
Tinker18 on 01/27/2006 20:57:40
i find it ironic that you came to us to ask us how you can learn about car audio.
let me put it this way,
you have come to one of the best sites on the web for help, as myself, swez, and the other golds and users here each have our own specialties, while father time seems to know everything about car audio, you'd swear he invented it.
now, anything you may have to ask, you should make a point of asking it here,
its very easy in the beginning to get "fooled" into overpaying for something.
bear in mind, this is like buying a car, just because an amp says it has 1000 watts and you can get it for 50 bucks, doesnt mean its true.
Rule #1: Advertising is not always truth, don't give it the benefit of the doubt. buy from reputable brands. ask about them here to find out whats a good or bad choice.
Rule #2: If you decide to buy online, buy from an authorized dealer. someone who is "authorized" by that brand to sell their products on the web. It will say so on the website, if it doesnt then they aren't.
Rule #3: Research, i can't stress this enough to you. ask questions, no question is stupid, and theres an answer for everything. hang out around this forum, ask questions, learn, answer the questions you think you can.
Rule #4: If you buy in person at a store, don't let the salesman sell you something, make your own choices. ask about a product for information on it sure, but if he goes into how great it is or whatever, ignore it. most salesman are interested in one thing and one thing only. money, afterall they work on commision.
-thought i might give you some friendly advice as these are a few of the mistakes many beginners have to learn the hard way, its much better if someone points them out to you before hand.
Welcoem to the forum
Tink
seth on 01/27/2006 23:46:45
Thanks for the help everyone, you all seem very helpful.
I don't think I'm going to buy that amp from my friend.
I took a look at this : http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zgwafp9nTSB/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=208250&I=700MXART12
It seems like a really good deal, it comes with everything but the wires but it seems alittle too good to be true. Should I just get this :http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zgwafp9nTSB/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=208250&I=7007252W3 and buy a box too?
jazzbass on 01/28/2006 01:34:30
You could also do this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6joGp1JT8fe/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&I=1081040W
With this:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6joGp1JT8fe/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=500MRPM350
Get the two fer deal on the subs, wire them in parallel creating a 2 ohm load to get the full 350 watts out of the amp and have a little bit of money leftover to put towards wiring or an enclosure. IMO, arguably a better set of components than either of the other choices.
seth on 01/28/2006 13:48:35
Those infinity subs look like a good deal, thanks for sharing them.
However, I like to get the best bargain. If my friend's amp works, the audiobahn a4004t, should I buy it because I'm not 100% if it's compatible with the subs.
I found some specs, but I'm not sure what I should be focused on
http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Audiobahn_A4004T
thanks again!
swez on 01/28/2006 14:13:31
The Infinity Reference Series subs are a very good low budget sub. They handle 250 Wrms/ea. and are 4 ohm SVC's. That makes the wiring job much easier.
That amp is compatible with your subs when bridging front L&R for one sub, and bridging Rear L&R for other sub. It has 200 watts RMS power in bridged mode @ 4 ohms. A solid start!!!
The good news is, this amp can be used for subs now and swapped for a larger Class D amp later. (as cash permits) Then, oyu can use the Bahn amp to power Mid/high speakers later. The best part is the low price for this amp... assuming it works properly as is.
Swez
PS Thanks for the kind comments Tink... No, did not invent audio, but have studied it in great detail and have a few years of "hands on" experience as well.
The hard part is getting newbies to either listen and follow directions as given or take up the torch as YOU (and many others here have) and learn more on ones' own accord.
That's why we have so many Golds here & now... they have made it a passion to learn and pass on what they know. We have some very talented folks here. Some are Installers, some are Custom enclsoure fabricators, some are great shoppers and others have a broad range of general knowledge and troubleshooting experience.
IMHO, this is one of the best sites on the web for newbies and seasoned veterans to ply their skills. It just works so well as a community huh? Am proud to be a part of this team!!! USFLAG
seth on 01/29/2006 01:37:58
Alright, I was looking around and found this amp for $120 new:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6982107&type=product&cmp=++&id=1099388426341
It's more powerful than the other one I was going to buy but I am not sure if it's good or not.
As far as boxes are concerned, should I look for a specific type? I just want one I can stick in my trunk behind the backseat. Doesn't need to look fancy.
swez on 01/29/2006 11:31:35
This is adequate for your subs with >300 Wrms @ 2 ohms. Pioneer is most noted for their HU's and the Premier series speakers and subs. Amps, are not cutting edge, but very low cost if one has a tight budget.
To keep space constraints in mind, go sealed on your Infinity subs. Can get very good (daily driver) bass here, in a small, sealed box design. The Ref 1040W (10" woofer) is spec'd for 0.75 cf/sub, internal air space. That's a pretty compact design.
The next question here, would be the space you have available for a sub enclosure? Ideally, in trunk installs, the subs are firing toward the rear bumper. To get this to work well, it takes a 12-13" H & W space, under the rear deck. What are the overall H, W & D dimensions you have available in this trunk?
Swez
seth on 02/26/2006 19:18:33
Alright, I ordered a new pair of 6 x 9s, but I don't know how to take out my current ones. Does anyone know where I can find instructions online or can help me out? I have a 95 pontiac sunfire sedan. Tahnk you.
ryan2 on 02/26/2006 20:32:24
I dotn know if the sedans are they same as coupes but i'll try to help. This should be easy though.
#1 Speakers arent covered and in plain view.
Go in the trunk and look up to where your 6X9's are. Are there screws showing? If so unscrew them and the pull the speakers out from the interior of the car. Or pop off grill from the inside of the car and unscrew the speaker.
#2 Speakers are hidden under the carpeted rear deck
Pull down the back seats. Pop off the two plastic edge pieces covering up the metal on each side. There should be slits in the carpeted board so remove the seatbelts out from it. Now carefully pull out the carpeted rear deck and now unscrew the speakers and pull them out.
I hope this makes sense
ttocs on 02/26/2006 23:34:50
here is where myself and a couple others come in. I don't know diddly about products other then if I like them after I install them. I have not been in one of those for a while, but more then likely install is cake. Look inside the trunk at the rear deck and they are normally held in by something resembling a coat hanger holding them in. Push on the end and slide it out from the hanger and it will drop out(keep yer face out from under it if your laying in the trunk). To mount them it is best to ditch the coat hanger, and use some short self tapping screws to mount them from the rear deck.
seth on 02/27/2006 16:27:05
The only way I can get to my speakers it by taking the carpet thing off first. I've gotten to screws out, I just don't how to get the seatbelts from getting in the way.
ryan2 on 02/27/2006 23:49:09
I probably didnt make myself totally clear since its easier to show then tell. So i'll try it this way.
You dotn need to take the whole seat belt out. Just the strap. But thats easy. Where the staps goes into the rear deck in the carpet thing there should be a slit in the carpet to where you can get the strap out of the way and pull the carpeted piece out.
Also I forgot there arent any screws holding in the 6x9's its just that plastic baffle that ttocs was talking about.
JMB on 02/28/2006 00:46:27
Welcome Seth U have should find plenty or help and usefull tips at CK.
Bonsa Mate
ttocs on 02/28/2006 10:49:29
if there are no screws, you should not have to take the rear deck out.
ryan2 on 03/1/2006 12:34:07
Ttocs and seth. You have the metal rear deck which holds the 6X9's. Took get the 6X9's out you have to also take out the plastic baffle that holds the 6x9's in place. So you pop out the plastic baffle and lift the baffle and 6X9's out. But the problem is the 6x9's are hidden so you have take the carpet piece out first that hides the 6x9's and metal rear deck.
seth on 03/3/2006 19:04:34
Alright thanks for all of your help. I installed them, although it was hard, I was succesful. Now I need help installing front speakers. I need to get the window crank off but it's really difficult. There is no clip like normal. I think i'm just going to have to pry it out but I'm not sure. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.
ryan2 on 03/4/2006 12:52:51
Please edit your last post since this is a rated G site thanks. There is a clip. You need to buy a door handle remover from your local hardware store.
This is how the door handle is installed (so you have an idea what im about to say) You have the plastic door and a hole were the door handle connects. But first theres a thin plastic circular piece you put over the hole and then you connect the door handle.
Now take the door handle remover and place it between the door handle and that small plastic piece. Now push up till the clip pops up or out and then you can pull the door handle off.
seth on 03/4/2006 13:11:31
I edited my last question, sorry about the profanity.
What would you recomond if one does not have a door handle removal tool? If I was to buy a tool for that, what is it's "official" name?
ryan2 on 03/5/2006 12:36:15
I think its just called a door handle remover. You might be able to get the clip out by using to flat head screwdrivers but it will probably be difficult. Just go to your local hardware store like Truevalue, Bumper to Bumper, Ace, Autozone, Menards, etc. and tell them your looking for a door handle remover. I think mine cost like $5.
seth on 03/14/2006 21:58:11
I installed my speakers but they have NO BASS what so ever. I think I'm going to man up and put some subs in. My friend is making me a deal but I don't know if it's good or not.
He's selling me two of these:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15156
A Pyramid amp to power them(not sure what model)
and a wiring kit for $175
Good deal?
Thanks for your help.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
