SAD ok i just bought 2 12" w3v2 d4 and i also got a ported box. i have a jl 300/2 and a jl 250/1 amp. which amp will be the best for the two subs?
i will also have a set of alpine type r components in the front that i want to run one of these amps to. which should i do please help me. i really apreciate it.
also im not to sure about this ohm thing does 4 ohm mean louder bass than 2 ohm or what?
also "lol" how should i wire the subs...right now they are in "series/parallel" but i found it really od to have the subs connected like that and only coming out of one port of my box. if this is right that would mean thier would be 1 empty (-) on my amp and 1 empty (+). im a noob at this i know so please help im really confused. thanks
Replies (13)
swez on 01/11/2006 00:49:06
The 250/1 is your sub amp choice here. It's not a huge power amp for the subs noted, but is designed for sub use ONLY.
As for wiring your subs to this amp, each sub will have it's coils wired in series for a net 8 ohm load. Both subs will then need to be run in parallel, to the amp outputs. Here is a diagram for that:
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
As for your 300/2, this is a 2 channel amp and plenty good for your Alpine Comps.
Here, you will need to supply info on the HU used. (make & models #) Then, we need to walk you through the wiring steps for all components of this system.
1. Power wires (main power feed, fusing, grounds etc.)
2. Signal lines (RCA's and splitters)
3. REMote turn on leads (HU to amps)
4. Speaker wiring from amps to subs & Comps
The last comment: Quote " i found it really od to have the subs connected like that and only coming out of one port of my box"
This indicates either a wiring problem with subs or one sub may be damaged. It would be best to test each sub, out of the enclosure to insure both subs are working. Then we can suggest what to do next.
Swez COFFEE
PS When covering multiple topics in a given post, break each segment into separate paragraphs. (not run on sentences) It's much easier to address each subject this way for our techs. Follow my outline above and we can get info to you much more efficiently. Tks!
jluser on 01/11/2006 07:57:02
thank you for the fast reply
when i said i found it really od to have the subs connected like that and only coming out of one port of my box" i didnt mean the sound. i ment the wiring of the subs, the way i have it wired the wires only go to one port on the side of the box. it has 1 port for each subs wires. i hope u understand what im trying to say lol thank you again.
my alpine type r component specs are here
6-1/2"/6-3/4" component speaker system (two woofers and two tweeters)
Multi-layer pulp woofer
Rubber surround
Aluminum frame
1" silk dome tweeter with hardware for flush- or surface-mounting
Frequency response: 35-30,000 Hz
Power handling: 2-70 watts RMS (350 watts peak power)
2-way crossover with 6-step tweeter level adjustment
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Top-mount depth: 2-7/8"
1-year Sonic Electronix warranty
Priced Per Pair
Speaker Specifications:
Speaker Size 6-1/2"
Design 2-Way Component System
Sensitivity 87 dB
Frequency Response 35 Hz -30 kHz
Peak Power Handling 350 watts
RMS Power Handling 70 watts
Impedance 4 ohms
thank you again for your help
jluser on 01/11/2006 08:04:26
o ya, the way i wired my subs now is at this link. its the second one down on the left. let me know if this is right and if it will give good preformance. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
Victor on 01/11/2006 10:04:38
Swez type the Coffee .. all in caps.. C O F F E E...COFFEE
swez on 01/11/2006 12:44:56
Yes, that is correct... series/parallel, 4 ohms nominal to amp.
When you said "port" we generally use that term for ported/vented sub enclosures. These are are large air vents or round ports, tuned to the box for spiking SPL at the port tuned freq.
In your application, we use the term.. "termination cup". This is the device used in a sub box that allows electrical connections from the amp to sub(s), inside the enclosure.
Yes, it's fine to use a single termination cup with dual subs. All the important wiring is done inside the box and connected to the amp, via the termination cup(s). We can get the proper results with 1 term cup per sub or 1 term cup and subs wired correctly, inside the box.
The 300/2 is a very good choice for your Alpine R Comps. It can deliver up to 150 watts (RMS) per channel, of clean power at 1.5-4.0 ohm loads. The trick here, is to blend the full range output and subs to acheive a well balanced 3-way component system. Not too much bass SPL, that drowns out the mids/highs. Not too much RMS power to Comps to send them into convulsions or meltdown.
The 300/2 has a 2 stage input gain feature:
Input Range: Switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS
This tool allows one to set amp gains that can accurately regulate the HU input voltage, to match the desired RMS power output voltages to the speakers.
What HU are you using now? (make & model)
Swez
jluser on 01/11/2006 18:16:42
im not sure what HU means...
jluser on 01/11/2006 18:18:36
lol ok im dumb HU= head unit...im using the "kenwood kvt-715dvd"
swez on 01/12/2006 00:29:18
OK, looks like the specs on the RCA outs of this "HU" (DVD) has a 5 volt output signal when the HU volume is about 80% of max output. That makes your job in "tweaking" the amps in, a lot easier.
Since both JL amps have dual range sensitivity inputs, your initial settings for both will be ~5 volts. It is likely that your 300/2 will be stronger and overpower the subs. Here, the next tweak is to set your 300/2 gain at "8" and dial back toward "6", to get a good balance and not overpower the Alpine Comps.
Swez
jluser on 01/12/2006 08:01:41
ok thank you very much for your help i really apreciate it.
i think i will achieve the sound that i was going for...not to much bass and screaming loud highs.
2 last things before i go
i have 2 sony xplods 6x9's in the back and i was wondering if i should run them off this 300/2 amp as well
someone said it would be better to run them off deck power...what do u think?
also
on my HU, the brain has rca outputs. one says front, one says rear, and one says subs, im guessing its ok to hook them up here?
or should i run them all to the wiring harness?
if i can just hook them up to the brain that would be sooo much easier. but im going to have to get new wire i assume? and is it ok to splice the regular speaker wire to make the end of it an RCA cable? if not how do i go about getting this done.
ttocs on 01/12/2006 09:05:55
don't cut any rca's, you want to go from the rca out on the brain to the rca in on the amp.
swez on 01/12/2006 11:49:48
Right! You'll need the Front RCA's from HU to 300/2 amp. The Sub outs to your 250/1 amp. The rears are unused at this point. That's 2 pairs of RCA's, long enough to reach from HU to amps.
Run the Sony's off the HU amp, (rear channels) for "rear fill" only.
It would be a good idea to run #14 gage speaker wires from your 300/2, to the front dash area. Then, connect to your passive crossovers and these outs to your Alpine Comps.
As for power wires for these amps, ya need these too:
1. #4 wire from BAT to fuse to a power distribution block
2. A set of #8 wires off the D-block, to each amp
3. About 3' (or less) #8 grounding wires for amps
4. Inline fuse holder (#4 gage) 18" or less, from the BAT
The D-block should have at least one #4 wire input and two #8 outs.
Here's a general idea to model:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_8.pdf
Swez
jluser on 01/12/2006 16:33:10
ok thank you all very much. i would be lost with out you guys i really apreciate the help you all have given me.
thanks again
swez on 01/12/2006 22:30:03
No problem, that's what the donation box is for. Helps keep this site funded for folks like you and me.
Swez SMILE
i will also have a set of alpine type r components in the front that i want to run one of these amps to. which should i do please help me. i really apreciate it.
also im not to sure about this ohm thing does 4 ohm mean louder bass than 2 ohm or what?
also "lol" how should i wire the subs...right now they are in "series/parallel" but i found it really od to have the subs connected like that and only coming out of one port of my box. if this is right that would mean thier would be 1 empty (-) on my amp and 1 empty (+). im a noob at this i know so please help im really confused. thanks
Replies (13)
swez on 01/11/2006 00:49:06
The 250/1 is your sub amp choice here. It's not a huge power amp for the subs noted, but is designed for sub use ONLY.
As for wiring your subs to this amp, each sub will have it's coils wired in series for a net 8 ohm load. Both subs will then need to be run in parallel, to the amp outputs. Here is a diagram for that:
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
As for your 300/2, this is a 2 channel amp and plenty good for your Alpine Comps.
Here, you will need to supply info on the HU used. (make & models #) Then, we need to walk you through the wiring steps for all components of this system.
1. Power wires (main power feed, fusing, grounds etc.)
2. Signal lines (RCA's and splitters)
3. REMote turn on leads (HU to amps)
4. Speaker wiring from amps to subs & Comps
The last comment: Quote " i found it really od to have the subs connected like that and only coming out of one port of my box"
This indicates either a wiring problem with subs or one sub may be damaged. It would be best to test each sub, out of the enclosure to insure both subs are working. Then we can suggest what to do next.
Swez COFFEE
PS When covering multiple topics in a given post, break each segment into separate paragraphs. (not run on sentences) It's much easier to address each subject this way for our techs. Follow my outline above and we can get info to you much more efficiently. Tks!
jluser on 01/11/2006 07:57:02
thank you for the fast reply
when i said i found it really od to have the subs connected like that and only coming out of one port of my box" i didnt mean the sound. i ment the wiring of the subs, the way i have it wired the wires only go to one port on the side of the box. it has 1 port for each subs wires. i hope u understand what im trying to say lol thank you again.
my alpine type r component specs are here
6-1/2"/6-3/4" component speaker system (two woofers and two tweeters)
Multi-layer pulp woofer
Rubber surround
Aluminum frame
1" silk dome tweeter with hardware for flush- or surface-mounting
Frequency response: 35-30,000 Hz
Power handling: 2-70 watts RMS (350 watts peak power)
2-way crossover with 6-step tweeter level adjustment
Sensitivity: 87 dB
Top-mount depth: 2-7/8"
1-year Sonic Electronix warranty
Priced Per Pair
Speaker Specifications:
Speaker Size 6-1/2"
Design 2-Way Component System
Sensitivity 87 dB
Frequency Response 35 Hz -30 kHz
Peak Power Handling 350 watts
RMS Power Handling 70 watts
Impedance 4 ohms
thank you again for your help
jluser on 01/11/2006 08:04:26
o ya, the way i wired my subs now is at this link. its the second one down on the left. let me know if this is right and if it will give good preformance. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
Victor on 01/11/2006 10:04:38
Swez type the Coffee .. all in caps.. C O F F E E...COFFEE
swez on 01/11/2006 12:44:56
Yes, that is correct... series/parallel, 4 ohms nominal to amp.
When you said "port" we generally use that term for ported/vented sub enclosures. These are are large air vents or round ports, tuned to the box for spiking SPL at the port tuned freq.
In your application, we use the term.. "termination cup". This is the device used in a sub box that allows electrical connections from the amp to sub(s), inside the enclosure.
Yes, it's fine to use a single termination cup with dual subs. All the important wiring is done inside the box and connected to the amp, via the termination cup(s). We can get the proper results with 1 term cup per sub or 1 term cup and subs wired correctly, inside the box.
The 300/2 is a very good choice for your Alpine R Comps. It can deliver up to 150 watts (RMS) per channel, of clean power at 1.5-4.0 ohm loads. The trick here, is to blend the full range output and subs to acheive a well balanced 3-way component system. Not too much bass SPL, that drowns out the mids/highs. Not too much RMS power to Comps to send them into convulsions or meltdown.
The 300/2 has a 2 stage input gain feature:
Input Range: Switchable from 200mV-2V RMS to 800mV-8V RMS
This tool allows one to set amp gains that can accurately regulate the HU input voltage, to match the desired RMS power output voltages to the speakers.
What HU are you using now? (make & model)
Swez
jluser on 01/11/2006 18:16:42
im not sure what HU means...
jluser on 01/11/2006 18:18:36
lol ok im dumb HU= head unit...im using the "kenwood kvt-715dvd"
swez on 01/12/2006 00:29:18
OK, looks like the specs on the RCA outs of this "HU" (DVD) has a 5 volt output signal when the HU volume is about 80% of max output. That makes your job in "tweaking" the amps in, a lot easier.
Since both JL amps have dual range sensitivity inputs, your initial settings for both will be ~5 volts. It is likely that your 300/2 will be stronger and overpower the subs. Here, the next tweak is to set your 300/2 gain at "8" and dial back toward "6", to get a good balance and not overpower the Alpine Comps.
Swez
jluser on 01/12/2006 08:01:41
ok thank you very much for your help i really apreciate it.
i think i will achieve the sound that i was going for...not to much bass and screaming loud highs.
2 last things before i go
i have 2 sony xplods 6x9's in the back and i was wondering if i should run them off this 300/2 amp as well
someone said it would be better to run them off deck power...what do u think?
also
on my HU, the brain has rca outputs. one says front, one says rear, and one says subs, im guessing its ok to hook them up here?
or should i run them all to the wiring harness?
if i can just hook them up to the brain that would be sooo much easier. but im going to have to get new wire i assume? and is it ok to splice the regular speaker wire to make the end of it an RCA cable? if not how do i go about getting this done.
ttocs on 01/12/2006 09:05:55
don't cut any rca's, you want to go from the rca out on the brain to the rca in on the amp.
swez on 01/12/2006 11:49:48
Right! You'll need the Front RCA's from HU to 300/2 amp. The Sub outs to your 250/1 amp. The rears are unused at this point. That's 2 pairs of RCA's, long enough to reach from HU to amps.
Run the Sony's off the HU amp, (rear channels) for "rear fill" only.
It would be a good idea to run #14 gage speaker wires from your 300/2, to the front dash area. Then, connect to your passive crossovers and these outs to your Alpine Comps.
As for power wires for these amps, ya need these too:
1. #4 wire from BAT to fuse to a power distribution block
2. A set of #8 wires off the D-block, to each amp
3. About 3' (or less) #8 grounding wires for amps
4. Inline fuse holder (#4 gage) 18" or less, from the BAT
The D-block should have at least one #4 wire input and two #8 outs.
Here's a general idea to model:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/SYS_8.pdf
Swez
jluser on 01/12/2006 16:33:10
ok thank you all very much. i would be lost with out you guys i really apreciate the help you all have given me.
thanks again
swez on 01/12/2006 22:30:03
No problem, that's what the donation box is for. Helps keep this site funded for folks like you and me.
Swez SMILE
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