Alright, I know I ask alot of questions, but it's cuz I'm real slow. I think these are the last of them though (hopefully). I'll break it down.
Parallel/Parallel sub wiring
I get the concept of wiring positive to positive and so on, what I don't get is how to PHYSICALLY do it. Like, do I connect one subs terminals accordingly with speaker wires then splice that speaker wire some how to connect it to the enclosure terminal? Then do I do the same for the other sub and connect the two enclosure terminals positive to positive and splice that wire to connect to the amp?
RCA outputs? Speaker wire outputs? Balanced inputs?
Are RCA outputs to add on amps or to connect to the subs? Am I supposed to use the speaker wire outputs to connect the subs? Are balanced inputs just for adding on? If I'm supposed to use the RCA cables to connect the subs, do I splice them with an adapter? Is right terminal and left terminal positive and negative?
Am I supposed to have a wire harness connected to my door speakers for easy disconnecting?
In the Big 3 pictures post, it didn't look like the battery positive to alternator positive was fused. Is this not neccessary?
I'm having a hard time finding a good ground spot for my amps in the interior. Is anything wrong with running them back to the ground under the hood?
i know i know, i'm an idiot, and I really need the help.
Replies (4)
ttocs on 01/8/2006 11:34:27
slow or not we will answer your questions. Don't be afraid to ask, only Mr B bites..........
For parallel wiring, you will connect all the posatives on the speaker, to the + on the amp, and all the -'s from the speakers, to the -'s on the amp. It does not matter where you make the connections. If you have a DVC sub, it is common to have only one set of speaker wires comming from the box, and inside the box all the connections are made.
your RCA cable will run from the decks rca outputs, to the amps RCA inputs. You will connect the speakers to the amps, speaker outputs. Rca signals will not run a speaker without an amp.
You can get a hrns for the door speakers to make it easier. They are available at most shops and make identifying the + and - wires easy. Should not be more then $10.
you can run the grounds back to the battery, but it is more trouble then it is worth. If you lift the carpet up, you can put a self tapping screw into the floor for your ground, just make sure there is nothing underneath it(ex: gas tank).
We would only call you an idoit if you tried to do all this with out asking questions, and then wanted us to help you fix it....
Keep em commin......
swez on 01/8/2006 11:52:27
May I suggest you read all you can at a few tuitorial based sites and get some solid background on common practices used in car audio? Here are a few sites that do a very good job of 'splainin' things:
http://www.the12volt.com/
http://www.bcae1.com/
All your questions in this post, are addressed on Bcae1. They have diagrams, interactive tuitorials and lots of great info.
You are not an idiot! (just lacking knowledge is all) Idiots do not ask questions. They just do what seems best to them and ignore others that know what to do. So, don't be an IDIOT... SMILE read these sites like an "A" student.
Yes, some of the topics will be hard at first. But, with time, cross-checking info and asking more topic specific questions, you'll have a solid knowledge base to work from.
FYI: Try to master each phase of an install, before diving into the next stage. This is very much like building with Lego blocks. We start with a good foundation, (knowledge from others) and then fabricate a structure, based on what we learned from other successes.
There are good shortcuts and bad dead ends out there to choose from. Our progress or lack thereof, is determined by how well we master each step in a given project, along the way. Here, a good road map is essential.
To answer some of your "LAST QUESTIONS"... yeah, right?
1. Balanced line systems are not the norm. We can get very good results with less costs by using standard products.
2. Grounding amps, processors and HU to the floor pan, is generally a very good approach. Running a line from the Neg terminal on a BAT is not needed as the whole metal shell of a car is also ground.
3. Sub wiring techniques are best seen in wiring diagrams. We have a good one on this site. Just click on the pic you intend to use and read the details as you study the pics:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t33
4. It is a very good idea to use an inline fuse between ALT/BAT when using high current amplifiers. This protects the ALT from damage if the current draw is well beyond the ALT's power output capacity. The fuse is rated to blow, if the current demand from the entire electrical system needs are in access of the ALT's output ability.
5. Wire harness and M/F connections to door speakers are not needed. They are already there in the door and at the HU.
Happy reading,
Swez
strife on 01/8/2006 19:57:43
Thanks swez, I appreciate it. The only thing was I meant the RCA outputs on the amp, not HU.
swez on 01/8/2006 23:10:38
If you are using 2 amps here, the best option is having a HU that has 4 full range RCA outs and a pair of sub outs.
Many of the newer amps have "piggy back" pass through RCA outs. Here, we only need 2-4 RCA's for the full range amp and that amp could have a pair of RCA outs for a sub amp.
Is that what you meant?
Swez
Parallel/Parallel sub wiring
I get the concept of wiring positive to positive and so on, what I don't get is how to PHYSICALLY do it. Like, do I connect one subs terminals accordingly with speaker wires then splice that speaker wire some how to connect it to the enclosure terminal? Then do I do the same for the other sub and connect the two enclosure terminals positive to positive and splice that wire to connect to the amp?
RCA outputs? Speaker wire outputs? Balanced inputs?
Are RCA outputs to add on amps or to connect to the subs? Am I supposed to use the speaker wire outputs to connect the subs? Are balanced inputs just for adding on? If I'm supposed to use the RCA cables to connect the subs, do I splice them with an adapter? Is right terminal and left terminal positive and negative?
Am I supposed to have a wire harness connected to my door speakers for easy disconnecting?
In the Big 3 pictures post, it didn't look like the battery positive to alternator positive was fused. Is this not neccessary?
I'm having a hard time finding a good ground spot for my amps in the interior. Is anything wrong with running them back to the ground under the hood?
i know i know, i'm an idiot, and I really need the help.
Replies (4)
ttocs on 01/8/2006 11:34:27
slow or not we will answer your questions. Don't be afraid to ask, only Mr B bites..........
For parallel wiring, you will connect all the posatives on the speaker, to the + on the amp, and all the -'s from the speakers, to the -'s on the amp. It does not matter where you make the connections. If you have a DVC sub, it is common to have only one set of speaker wires comming from the box, and inside the box all the connections are made.
your RCA cable will run from the decks rca outputs, to the amps RCA inputs. You will connect the speakers to the amps, speaker outputs. Rca signals will not run a speaker without an amp.
You can get a hrns for the door speakers to make it easier. They are available at most shops and make identifying the + and - wires easy. Should not be more then $10.
you can run the grounds back to the battery, but it is more trouble then it is worth. If you lift the carpet up, you can put a self tapping screw into the floor for your ground, just make sure there is nothing underneath it(ex: gas tank).
We would only call you an idoit if you tried to do all this with out asking questions, and then wanted us to help you fix it....
Keep em commin......
swez on 01/8/2006 11:52:27
May I suggest you read all you can at a few tuitorial based sites and get some solid background on common practices used in car audio? Here are a few sites that do a very good job of 'splainin' things:
http://www.the12volt.com/
http://www.bcae1.com/
All your questions in this post, are addressed on Bcae1. They have diagrams, interactive tuitorials and lots of great info.
You are not an idiot! (just lacking knowledge is all) Idiots do not ask questions. They just do what seems best to them and ignore others that know what to do. So, don't be an IDIOT... SMILE read these sites like an "A" student.
Yes, some of the topics will be hard at first. But, with time, cross-checking info and asking more topic specific questions, you'll have a solid knowledge base to work from.
FYI: Try to master each phase of an install, before diving into the next stage. This is very much like building with Lego blocks. We start with a good foundation, (knowledge from others) and then fabricate a structure, based on what we learned from other successes.
There are good shortcuts and bad dead ends out there to choose from. Our progress or lack thereof, is determined by how well we master each step in a given project, along the way. Here, a good road map is essential.
To answer some of your "LAST QUESTIONS"... yeah, right?
1. Balanced line systems are not the norm. We can get very good results with less costs by using standard products.
2. Grounding amps, processors and HU to the floor pan, is generally a very good approach. Running a line from the Neg terminal on a BAT is not needed as the whole metal shell of a car is also ground.
3. Sub wiring techniques are best seen in wiring diagrams. We have a good one on this site. Just click on the pic you intend to use and read the details as you study the pics:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t33
4. It is a very good idea to use an inline fuse between ALT/BAT when using high current amplifiers. This protects the ALT from damage if the current draw is well beyond the ALT's power output capacity. The fuse is rated to blow, if the current demand from the entire electrical system needs are in access of the ALT's output ability.
5. Wire harness and M/F connections to door speakers are not needed. They are already there in the door and at the HU.
Happy reading,
Swez
strife on 01/8/2006 19:57:43
Thanks swez, I appreciate it. The only thing was I meant the RCA outputs on the amp, not HU.
swez on 01/8/2006 23:10:38
If you are using 2 amps here, the best option is having a HU that has 4 full range RCA outs and a pair of sub outs.
Many of the newer amps have "piggy back" pass through RCA outs. Here, we only need 2-4 RCA's for the full range amp and that amp could have a pair of RCA outs for a sub amp.
Is that what you meant?
Swez
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