Slot Vented Enclosures

by Harvester
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Does anyone have an Idea on how to make one? or formulas that I could use?



Replies (29)
Harvester on 01/4/2006 23:13:41
A slot vent enclosure ^^^^^^

compvr15s on 01/4/2006 23:23:33
did you check the owners manual??? many brands will give a few pages dedicated to enclosures,, will give you measurments of each pannel that is needed and will give correct and accurate measurements for the area of the vent.


Harvester on 01/4/2006 23:26:19
havent received the subs yet...enroute.......website doesnt offer the manual in pdf yet...already checked....just tryin to get a heads up before they get here

compvr15s on 01/4/2006 23:32:01
well what size enclosure does the sub call for? how many cubic feet do you plan to use? by going ported the subs will be a lil more efficient, needing less power to perform than a sealed enclosure

swez on 01/4/2006 23:38:49
Why use a vented slot when a round port is so much easier to work with, produces similar SPL/Low bass tuning freq and takes up much less space. (Ie: a smaller box)

I believe vents are great in very large SPL designs. However, they need a large box too. Basically, we are not tuning the sub(s). We are tuning the enclosure here. Using huge boxes and large subs, vented ports make sense as a round port would be huge.

In a well designed round port system, the box is smaller, good bass extension and a nice bump in SPL at tuned freq. A bit less SPL and may take a bit more power to reach Xmax of the sub used.

Read this and see what ya think?

http://www.ddaudio.com/dd/caraudio/enclosureInfo/portInfo.asp

Comments?
Swez

compvr15s on 01/4/2006 23:42:24
agreed! round ports much easier, you will be completely happy with this route.

Harvester on 01/4/2006 23:48:53
sounds like a plan to me....will music like shinedown and crossfade sound ok through a ported box? and swez the document says that the port should be 16 sqin per cubic foot of box and it says the port should be 16 inches long....is that true?

Harvester on 01/4/2006 23:53:10
what if the box is 17 22 25 or 30 inches long.....wouldnt the port measurements be wrong


compvr15s on 01/5/2006 00:03:01
if you have a box that is 17x22x25-you will have about 5.41cubic feet. so by the DD formula, you should have about 88cubic inches of port, rounded to 5.5cubic foot box... 88cubic inchs divided by the 16inch lengh=5.5"

5.5inch round by 16inch long will give you the recommended port space

compvr15s on 01/5/2006 00:04:50
but they said this is for subs moving huge amounts of air. 1inch of cone movement is pretty good... so this may be high for a lesser moving sub

Harvester on 01/5/2006 00:07:49
no the box wouldnt be that big I was just saying the length of the box running parallel to the port were those different sizes...but I guess that answers my question....doesnt matter the length of the box...i think i get it


compvr15s on 01/5/2006 00:13:38
the port dont have to stay 16inchs you can half tha and use two 5.5"x8" and achieve the same affect,

P0werLifter on 01/5/2006 11:28:15
whats the tuning frequency your going for here. That makes a huge difference in the length and dimentions of the port....

Harvester on 01/5/2006 16:08:32
according to the website that swez gave me its 40 hz.....would anyone happen to know where i can see what the recommended enclosure size for the plsq12d is??


swez on 01/5/2006 22:51:05
The info I gave you Harvester, was more of a tuitorial on DD subs. It may not apply well to the subs you noted ealier as they probably have very different Thiel/Small Parameters. (complex calculations and driver specs)

We choose a port that will tune the enclosure (airspace) to the desired tuning frequency. It does not have to be 40 Hz. It can be higher or lower is your wish. The sub maker should have ported box recommendations for both airspace and port dimensions. If we know the airspace required, we can then tune the box via porting variations.

When you get the subs and box details, then we can help you figure out your options. Also, what kind of bass do you prefer most? (tight, crisp bass or deep, booming bass?)

Swez

PS Sorry if I confused you on that DD site reference. It's a good tuitorial for DD subs and much of the general concept applies to all subs. But there are specifics and unique features that only apply to DD subs. (Pyle may have little to great variations that differ from DD specs)


Harvester on 01/6/2006 03:40:32
You know...I really like this forum....even after eleventy posts of ignorance,people are still kind and nice to me....I want you all to know that I really appreciate all the help......as for the details on the subs...I have surfed high and low to find info but i have found nothing...i found some of the T/S parameters but nothing about box volume or anything of the sort....again thanks

swez on 01/6/2006 06:14:13
Hehe, yeah... most of us are pretty patient with newbies. The only thing that ticks me off is when I spend an huge amount of time 'splaining what needs to be done' and the guy goes off on his own tangent and really screws it up.

There is a good program out there called WinISD. You plug in the T/S parameters and it will give plots and box recommendations. Takes time to learn how to use it though. I have yet to make enough time to get a handle on it. POwer Lifter has a copy and pretty good with it too. Maybe he can help out on that part if needed.

Swez

PS Glad you like CK... it's a neat place to hang out and share ideas. TY Walter Hargrave!!!

Harvester on 01/7/2006 02:04:23
Yeah I have used winisd and it says that i need a 206 cubic foot box......

Harvester on 01/7/2006 02:06:08
winisd alpha says 59 cubic feet


Harvester on 01/7/2006 02:08:40
I like tight and punchy bass....but I really hate when eminem or Shinedown comes on and it distorts

Ash on 01/7/2006 08:10:51
If you like tight and punchy bass then you might not like vented. Sealed gives the most tight and punchy bass with less definition degradation. Vented enclosures usually are quite peaky especially around the port tuning frequency and have far less definition.

Harvester on 01/7/2006 09:54:25
the sealed may be the way to go....but I believe i was told that vented boxes also act like an extra amp meaning louder... the boxes i have now are sealed...and it doesnt sound too bad now even though they are 500 rms and im sending them 200


Ash on 01/7/2006 14:53:21
The wattage is part of your main problem. Once that amp is peaked out on rms power, all that is left is distortion. Your subs are not being maximized. Even with ported, you still want a strong amp with a good dampening factor to keep bass notes clean and not having enough power will only add to the problem. A subsonic filter is used to keep out power at damaging frequencies (below port tuning).

I would try a proper amp before changing enclosures and see if that suits you better. Most of the time, the extra power is all you need to make them "come alive". 200 rms just isn't enough! For strong, clean output, you would need at least 3/4 of the subs rms to be safe. Sometimes you can get away with half, but only at lower volumes and less demanding bass notes.

Another thing, do you have specs for these. If not try contacting the manufacturer via phone or email. You really need those to properly build a enclosure for them. They might even give the recommended type and size.


Harvester on 01/8/2006 00:26:48
I have sent emails and such but no response

Harvester on 01/11/2006 00:58:28
So is it possible that I dont have a grounding problem and everything shuts down because im not giving my subs enoug power?

P0werLifter on 01/11/2006 17:16:17
if your system is shutting down, check your amp! is it hot? does it have a light on showing that it has gone into "protect mode"?

Harvester on 01/12/2006 00:58:17
No it doesnt do that.....when the bass hits ...its almost like the cd skips.....If i turn the HU down it doesnt skip in the same place it did before....

Harvester on 01/12/2006 01:13:50
The Specs for the woofers and amp are....

LA2080
RMS @ 4 OHMS 2 x 200W
RMS @ 2 OHMS 2x320W
MAX 2x1200W
BRIDGED 1x2400W
2 ohm stereo stable
50A Current Draw


2- PW1286 X
1000 watts peak
500W RMS
single 4 ohm
SPL 86.1
Fs 25 Hz
Qts .51
Vas 3.3193 cu ft
2" VC
90 oz Magnet




swez on 01/12/2006 04:45:22
Looks like these are 4 ohm SVC type subs. The best you can do, is wire 1 sub to each channel.

Also, what gage wire are you using for power and grounds? Minimum is #8 gage, but #4 will give you less voltage drops and allow you to add a modest 2 channel amp as well.

These subs are somewhat underpowered. If you use too much bass boost and have the gains set too low, the amp can shut of for a few seconds on high bass signal spikes and come back on too.

Skipping CD's? Heavy bass tracks can make some CD players to skip. If your HU has an AUX input, try a portable CD or MP3 player on the AUX line and see if you can nail this down.

Swez

PS What are the box specs for these subs? (what are the dimensions you have here now?)



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