It's hard to find an H/O alternator for my car, so I'm going to try to get the local shop to rewind mine to 180 (dunno if possible). But just so I know I'm not getting ripped off, about how much should that cost.
Also, after everything is upgraded, what's a good way to tell or test if your charging system is giving off adequate power?
Replies (9)
swez on 01/2/2006 09:22:03
Testing output should be done by the rebuilder if possible. You should see max output at ~2,000 RPM.
Also, there is a very good rebuilder in Detroit, MI. I cannot recall their name at the moment, but several guys here, have used their services and all seem please with performance and price they paid for same.
Try a google search if you wish. Seems like it was something like ...
http://www.motorcityreman.com
Hopefully, someone who has that detail will pop in and give you details. A 200A model should be under $200.00 shipped.
Good luck,
Swez
MrBrownstone on 01/3/2006 15:42:23
why are you having it upgraded? are you dB dragging? most all factory alt's are good for 2kW to 2.5kW of out put power...class D amplifier.
Victor on 01/3/2006 15:59:09
i wud not agree.. cause out here very rare cars have alts bigger than 100amps..
Victor..
MrBrownstone on 01/3/2006 16:17:45
Your amplifier isn't using all 100amps simultaneously 100% of the time...your duty cycle is <25%, and even at peak load, you aren't using the whole thing....unless db dragging....
Listening to music, you're just not going to consume your entire load. i had a toyota corolla 75amp unit provide all that 2kw dare draw. wiring might be the main limiter here.
strife on 01/4/2006 06:15:18
I have 2 audiobahn alum12q's powered by a hifonics bx2005d and another amp powering component speakers. My current alt. might be less than 100 amps, but i was under the impression that I'd have to upgrade. Isn't the formula the power times efficiency divided by the volts? If this is the case, if I'm pulling 1400 watts from my hifonics, than that alone would be about 113 amps in my car.
strife on 01/4/2006 07:30:28
Also, if you not pulling the right power, aren't you going to cut your batteries life. But if it ends up that I really don't need an alternator, I couldn't be happier.
swez on 01/4/2006 10:39:40
Yes, power x eff/volts is the proper formula. However, as Mr. B. has pointed out, the sub amp has a short duty cycle. Burp tones are very intense and they demand a lot of watts from the power supply that feeds an amp.
The acid test comes when we fire up a system and monitor our lights at night. If they dim a little on deep bass hits, we can do a few minor things to limit that issue. But, if light dimming is severe and the car dies and won't start after booming a while, the ALT is not keeping up and the BAT is buffering it's power to the watt hogging amp(s).
In that scenario, major electrical upgrades are needed. Cross that bridge as you get to it.
Swez
strife on 01/4/2006 21:17:56
So should I even begin the Big 3 upgrade, or wait until my entire system is in and test it?
swez on 01/6/2006 06:46:15
Yes, I would recommend the BIG 3 upgrade to start with.
Swez
Also, after everything is upgraded, what's a good way to tell or test if your charging system is giving off adequate power?
Replies (9)
swez on 01/2/2006 09:22:03
Testing output should be done by the rebuilder if possible. You should see max output at ~2,000 RPM.
Also, there is a very good rebuilder in Detroit, MI. I cannot recall their name at the moment, but several guys here, have used their services and all seem please with performance and price they paid for same.
Try a google search if you wish. Seems like it was something like ...
http://www.motorcityreman.com
Hopefully, someone who has that detail will pop in and give you details. A 200A model should be under $200.00 shipped.
Good luck,
Swez
MrBrownstone on 01/3/2006 15:42:23
why are you having it upgraded? are you dB dragging? most all factory alt's are good for 2kW to 2.5kW of out put power...class D amplifier.
Victor on 01/3/2006 15:59:09
i wud not agree.. cause out here very rare cars have alts bigger than 100amps..
Victor..
MrBrownstone on 01/3/2006 16:17:45
Your amplifier isn't using all 100amps simultaneously 100% of the time...your duty cycle is <25%, and even at peak load, you aren't using the whole thing....unless db dragging....
Listening to music, you're just not going to consume your entire load. i had a toyota corolla 75amp unit provide all that 2kw dare draw. wiring might be the main limiter here.
strife on 01/4/2006 06:15:18
I have 2 audiobahn alum12q's powered by a hifonics bx2005d and another amp powering component speakers. My current alt. might be less than 100 amps, but i was under the impression that I'd have to upgrade. Isn't the formula the power times efficiency divided by the volts? If this is the case, if I'm pulling 1400 watts from my hifonics, than that alone would be about 113 amps in my car.
strife on 01/4/2006 07:30:28
Also, if you not pulling the right power, aren't you going to cut your batteries life. But if it ends up that I really don't need an alternator, I couldn't be happier.
swez on 01/4/2006 10:39:40
Yes, power x eff/volts is the proper formula. However, as Mr. B. has pointed out, the sub amp has a short duty cycle. Burp tones are very intense and they demand a lot of watts from the power supply that feeds an amp.
The acid test comes when we fire up a system and monitor our lights at night. If they dim a little on deep bass hits, we can do a few minor things to limit that issue. But, if light dimming is severe and the car dies and won't start after booming a while, the ALT is not keeping up and the BAT is buffering it's power to the watt hogging amp(s).
In that scenario, major electrical upgrades are needed. Cross that bridge as you get to it.
Swez
strife on 01/4/2006 21:17:56
So should I even begin the Big 3 upgrade, or wait until my entire system is in and test it?
swez on 01/6/2006 06:46:15
Yes, I would recommend the BIG 3 upgrade to start with.
Swez
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