I'm a proud owner of 2000 Mustang and recently wnated to upgrade my stereo system so I can listen to MP3s in my car. The double head unit also turned up to be a good opportunity to put in a 7" monitor and have a entertainment system instead. But install turned out to be a nightmare. What I didn't know was that Ford used a BOSE premium system which included a factory amp to power the speakers, rather than a head unit itself. After sorting throug a nightmare of a wiring harness(es) and finaly picked up (what I thought was) my power wires and wired my new head unit all I got was power for a milisecund and than the stereo would turn off. I'm not really sure how to deal with this. I am a rookie anyway, and have installed a few stereo systems before and wired in a few units but nothing on a car this new, so the wires were pretty straight forward (8 for speaker, ground, 12 volt battery, 12 volt ignition). If anybody has any idea what I'm doing (or not doing) right/wrong please reply. Thank you all in advance and I hope that this topic might help some other installers in the future as well.
Replies (19)
P0werLifter on 12/21/2005 02:45:44
Maybe try locating the actual stock amplifiers to identify the power/ground and signal wires? Or busy out a Testing Light and start checking wires to see what wires are constant hot, switched hot, and grounds?
BgDustin4 on 12/21/2005 16:52:32
all i did in my cady is by pass the amp i just ran new wiers lol did not fell like going and doing all that it works but got to run wiers lol hope this help i know it don't much
mustangboy78 on 12/22/2005 23:55:54
It just doesn't make much sense, because the 12volt constant is OK, so that should mean that it should be powered all the time right? The factory ground works too, so that's what I used. I was hoping that there might be a easy solution. It also doesnt make any difference if the ignition is on or off.....
I still didn't break out the Voltage Meter, so that's what I'll do next...Thank you guys a lot. I will let you all know what I did and if it worked.
swez on 12/23/2005 09:34:10
The 12 volt constant will always have power in that line, as long as the battery is connected and there are no blown fuses. The factory amps have a Remote trigger from the HU, to turn them on as well. This will be a very small diameter wire and should read between 5-12 volts when the HU is powered up.
Once you find these, the rest of your search to the amp inputs would be a set of signal input wires from HU harness to amps. These are usually shielded audio cables (the braided shield is ground, the other is +)
Perhaps a "balanced line" configuration is used in Bose systems. That means 3 wires per input channel. This makes any amp sound cleaner, but most midgrade aftermarket HU's are not set up for balanced line outputs. (Only 2 wire signal feeds)
You may wish to call Crutchfield Techies and see what solutions and info they can give you on this vehicle system. There may be a few kits out there, that will allow you to use the Bose amps and a regular aftermarket HU. The other option is to disconnect the Bose system entirely and use aftermarket amps as well. Many go that route as it's often easier than reverse engineering the factory gear.
Swez
ttocs on 12/23/2005 10:09:08
here I am. I am a mustang lover and if you know how you bypass the premium system. It should however be a JBL mach 360 sound system, GM uses bose.
What kind of radio are you installing? Some decks have a reset switch that needs to be pressed before it will work ok. If the constant and ground are ok, then try connecting the radio's constant and switched power wires to the cars +12v constant and see if it comes on. If it doesn't then you probably have a problem with the radio.
Did you remove the factory hrns from the car?
There is a speaker bypass hrns inside the console, you just have to know where it is. You will need to remove the factory radio, and the plastic piece that surrounds the Radio, climate controls. Before you can do that you will also need to pop off the piece that surrounds the gear shift. There are a couple o f9/32" screws that you will need to remove to get the panel around the radio off, the piece around the shifter is just pressed into place. Once both of those are removed, look down behind the radio, on the passenger side. Attached to the inside of the console are two, maybe three hrns. If you go and get a standard ford radio hrns(non premium sound). It should have two hrns inside, one is grey and rectangular(this is plugged into the pwr hrns that was disconnected from the stock radio), and another one the same size and shape only black. The black on will have all your speaker wires, and will plug into the hrns that is attached to the consol. When you first find the hrns, it will be plugged into the amp output. If you disconned this hrns with the factory radio on, the sound will turn off. Once your have disconnected that hrns and plugged in the one you bought, you now have completly bypassed the amps.
I am out of town visiting family for the holidays and will be in and out. I'll ckeck back to see what your next question is.
mustangboy78 on 12/23/2005 20:54:14
The HU I'm installing is Tenfull (it was a gift from e-bay) and I thought about the reset button too, and tried reseting it but that didn't really change anything. I also got a wiring harness from Car-Toys that hooks up into a sqare gray plug that was plugged into an amp, but that only wired up my speakers, still no power. Tomorrow I'm hoping it won't rain so I can try to locate the rest of the wires, only this time I'll use my meter to make sure that everything checks out. Also I already have an aftermarket amp so I really want to just bypass the factory one (i think it would be easier) and 2 10" subs that are wired separately and recieving signal from the rear speaker, but I think now when I get my new HU wired, I'll run RCAs but that is a whole another project. First I have to get the HU and my 7" screen wired, what I might also have some questions on but more on that when the time comes.
Thank you all, and I'll let you all know how tomorrow escapade goes
swez on 12/23/2005 23:57:10
Good idea, just bypass the factory amps and run new speaker wires and RCA's from your Aftermarket HU.
Are you just planning to amp the subs and run speakers off the new HU or amp the speakers too? Depending on the bass power used, you may want to look into a good 4 channel amp for your speakers as well. Most of the newer amps have pass through RCA's so you can connect your sub amp without running additional cables from the HU. That will work cleaner than tapping the rear speakers for subwoofer amp inputs.
Swez
PS I think ttocs is right. Ford has been using JBL products for their Premium Sound systems. Mustangs often have the Mach 360 system installed. I hear these are pretty good, but pesty to Aftermarket system integrations.
ttocs on 12/24/2005 11:11:53
if you are going to add a sub you will need to bypass the factory amp. I have added subs to those systems without bypassing it and it just sounds bad........ They have everything tuned so that when your aftermarket sub is just trying to get warmed up, the factory jbl is already so distorted that it just sounds bad. The way I explained will fix this, and really is the easiest premium sound bypass there is... You will not use the small grey square one, instead you need to get a standard ford speaker hrns.
mustangboy78 on 12/25/2005 15:04:17
OK, everyone...Here's what's going on. I used the voltage meter and found out that what I thought was my ignition 12V really wasn't so I found out one that is. But when I hooked up my new HU nothing happened. Than I went back and double checked voltage on all of the connections and when stereo is hooked up the 12V battery wirer only reads 3.33V. If I disconnect the HU it goes back up to the 12V. There is a little black box on the red and black wires coming from the stereo that has a fuse and some type of coil on it. I checked the fuse and it's OK, and so is the fuse on the yellow wire (for 12V ignition)...I'm seriously running out of ideas. Anybody knows why would a 12V battery change voltage after is hooked up to the HU???
ttocs on 12/25/2005 18:29:05
Are you using an aftermarket hrns, or was the factory hrns hacked off? Where is the deck grounded? Ford likes to use red for ground but even better yet ground it to the chassis, or you could even try the cig lighter temporarily... I just want to make sure the deck works at this point.
take the +12v switched and the +12v constant from the radio, to the +12v constant on the car. Now you should be able to turn the deck on, even with the car off
mustangboy78 on 12/25/2005 19:58:51
The deck works. But what I had to do is wire both, red and yellow (12V constant and 12V switched) from the new HU to the 12V switched in the car. Only problem I have now is I can't find a constant so I'm losing all my settings and nothing turns on when I put the key back. I have to turn everything on every time I shut of the car .
mustangboy78 on 12/25/2005 20:04:29
Oh, yes, I also forgot to mention...The stereo only works if 12V constant (on the HU) is wired to the 12V switched on the vehicle.
ttocs on 12/26/2005 10:53:47
ok good, we know the deck works and it seems as though your +12v constant is missing. Are your dome light and cig lighter working? Check your fuses, and check them ALL. Do not try to pull the one fuse that you think it may be, just check them all one at a time.
I assume by work that meant it had sound? If you wire into(not around) the premium sound system you will need to make sure you connect the remote turn on from the deck .
If all your fuses are good, and you still have no +12v constant, you can also use the wire that connects to the cig lighter, or run a new one from the fusebox.
mustangboy78 on 12/27/2005 00:48:55
Thank you all sooooo very much. So here is what I did and it works (for now). I used a factory 12 switched (which is by the way a purple/black on a stock hrns if anybody ever needs to know), and a factory ground which is a thin black wire. I used a plug that was connected to the factory amp and bought a hrns that plugs directly into it and that connected all my speakers, than spliced a wires from the new HU into the new hrns and that gave us sound. Next I ran a new 12 constant from a wire that runs to the dome light from the fuse box under the dash (which was a major pain but it works). That wired in the new HU and speakers and bypassed the factory amp. Next I told you all that I had a 7" monitor to wire in the top slot. I spliced the wires from that unit into same wires I used for the stereo and plugged the RCAs from one unit to another and now we have sound and the picture...HOOORAY.
Next was the aftermarket amp and few subs in the trunk. Here is where I could use some help because what I have works but not so great. I'm gonna run RCAs but until than I'm still using the rear speakers for a signal (something I had to do with factory stereo), but my new trouble is remote wire for the amp. Every time I crank up the sound a little the amp and the screen start acting out. Now the remote wire is done way ghetto by my friend who just wrapped the wire around the stereo fuse and plugged it in. I need a better solution for this because I think now I'm overloading that circuit way to much. The amp is an older Jensen (500W) and subs are by Coustic in a enclosed box. My question is if I ran RCAs from the new HU to the amp and find a new circuit for remote wire for the amp should this solve my problem???
Thank you all (especially ttocs) for helping me troubleshoot all this mess and making my ride little more enjoyable, and Merry X-Mass to all.
ttocs on 12/27/2005 09:51:33
how does it sound with out bypassing the amp? Like I said when I have added a sub to a factory system is sounded bad. Remember the gain on the sub amp should not need to be more then 2/3-3/4 max. It you have it turned all the way up you will be driving the amp hard and risking blowing it and the sub.
You will need to be more specific on "acting out" for me to be able to help. By the description I am getting I imagine a huge mess of wires by this time, am I right?
One amp will not overlaod the remote turn on output.
mustangboy78 on 12/27/2005 12:25:40
By acting out I mean, when I turn the volume on the stereo little higher (I"m not talking waaaaay loud, trying to get myself deaf loud), the screen starts flikering, and than sometimes the sound gets distorted for a few secunds, than gets quet, and than it's all better again. Now, my amp is turned way down, like barely a 1/4" of a turn on a power dial, so I know I'm not pushing the amp too hard, or trying to blow up my subs. I don't really like it tooooo loud, and I hate distortion, but I like a nice full sound.
Now if I don't use the amp or the subs at all, than everything is fine. And you are right, the wires were getting pretty messy. I think I'm done with the HU and the screen though, so I shouldn't have to tear back into the dash, and I made the RCA output easily reached through the back so when I run my RCAs to the trunk I think I can make it without taking the HU out.
ttocs on 12/27/2005 12:42:46
I really don't think the thin black wire you are using as a ground is correct. How did you determine it was the ground?. When checking wires that use to connect to the dash for power or ground, you must check the wire with the key off, on, and then with the lights off and on. There are wires in the dash that appear to be a ground until the key is turned, or the lights are on, as well as there could be a ground for the factory amp built into the deck hrns.
Did you cut off the factory hrns or are you using an aftermarket hrns to connect for pwr and ground? If you used an aftermarket hrns there may be 2 black wires, one for the deck ground and one for the factory amp ground. Normally they will mark these wires with small writting, on the wires... If you are not using a aftermarket hrns, ford likes to use red as ground, not black.
Try grounding the deck to the chassis rather then in the factory wiring.
mustangboy78 on 12/27/2005 19:57:14
I think you are right my friend...It's not the amp that's cutting out. It's the deck. And I think you are right about the ground too. I'm going to try that and let you know if it fixes problem. I'm only using aftermarket harness for the speakers, because the one that I bought only connects speakers not the power. Maybe that might be my problem too...I'm gonna reground to the chasis and see if that fixes my problem. I'm also wandering if it was a mistake wiring a screen and a deck together...Should I look for a different power source for a screen? Or is everything on one circuit OK.
ttocs on 12/28/2005 11:13:58
It depends on the screen and deck that you put in. If you look at the fuse that is on the power wire for both, and add those numbers up, they should not total over 25-30 amps. Alot of screens do not need as much power but if it is over 30 amps you should run a new power wire.
While you have the deck and screen out, look inside the consol on the passenger side. There will be 2-3 wire hrns and bundles of wire clipped to the inside of the consol. In the the hrns will have a 8 wires, and a rectangular shaped hrns that are plugged in together where the wires clip to the consol. With the deck on, unplug the hrns's and the deck should remain on, but the sound will stop. If you go to a local stereo shop or auto part store, you will be able to buy a standard ford radio hrns(it will have the power hrns as well but it is too late now). The black hrn in the package will be able to plug into the hrns you just unplugged, and you will now have bypassed the factory amps.... This will give you much better sound as now the factory amps will not amplify the distortion from the deck.
Replies (19)
P0werLifter on 12/21/2005 02:45:44
Maybe try locating the actual stock amplifiers to identify the power/ground and signal wires? Or busy out a Testing Light and start checking wires to see what wires are constant hot, switched hot, and grounds?
BgDustin4 on 12/21/2005 16:52:32
all i did in my cady is by pass the amp i just ran new wiers lol did not fell like going and doing all that it works but got to run wiers lol hope this help i know it don't much
mustangboy78 on 12/22/2005 23:55:54
It just doesn't make much sense, because the 12volt constant is OK, so that should mean that it should be powered all the time right? The factory ground works too, so that's what I used. I was hoping that there might be a easy solution. It also doesnt make any difference if the ignition is on or off.....
I still didn't break out the Voltage Meter, so that's what I'll do next...Thank you guys a lot. I will let you all know what I did and if it worked.
swez on 12/23/2005 09:34:10
The 12 volt constant will always have power in that line, as long as the battery is connected and there are no blown fuses. The factory amps have a Remote trigger from the HU, to turn them on as well. This will be a very small diameter wire and should read between 5-12 volts when the HU is powered up.
Once you find these, the rest of your search to the amp inputs would be a set of signal input wires from HU harness to amps. These are usually shielded audio cables (the braided shield is ground, the other is +)
Perhaps a "balanced line" configuration is used in Bose systems. That means 3 wires per input channel. This makes any amp sound cleaner, but most midgrade aftermarket HU's are not set up for balanced line outputs. (Only 2 wire signal feeds)
You may wish to call Crutchfield Techies and see what solutions and info they can give you on this vehicle system. There may be a few kits out there, that will allow you to use the Bose amps and a regular aftermarket HU. The other option is to disconnect the Bose system entirely and use aftermarket amps as well. Many go that route as it's often easier than reverse engineering the factory gear.
Swez
ttocs on 12/23/2005 10:09:08
here I am. I am a mustang lover and if you know how you bypass the premium system. It should however be a JBL mach 360 sound system, GM uses bose.
What kind of radio are you installing? Some decks have a reset switch that needs to be pressed before it will work ok. If the constant and ground are ok, then try connecting the radio's constant and switched power wires to the cars +12v constant and see if it comes on. If it doesn't then you probably have a problem with the radio.
Did you remove the factory hrns from the car?
There is a speaker bypass hrns inside the console, you just have to know where it is. You will need to remove the factory radio, and the plastic piece that surrounds the Radio, climate controls. Before you can do that you will also need to pop off the piece that surrounds the gear shift. There are a couple o f9/32" screws that you will need to remove to get the panel around the radio off, the piece around the shifter is just pressed into place. Once both of those are removed, look down behind the radio, on the passenger side. Attached to the inside of the console are two, maybe three hrns. If you go and get a standard ford radio hrns(non premium sound). It should have two hrns inside, one is grey and rectangular(this is plugged into the pwr hrns that was disconnected from the stock radio), and another one the same size and shape only black. The black on will have all your speaker wires, and will plug into the hrns that is attached to the consol. When you first find the hrns, it will be plugged into the amp output. If you disconned this hrns with the factory radio on, the sound will turn off. Once your have disconnected that hrns and plugged in the one you bought, you now have completly bypassed the amps.
I am out of town visiting family for the holidays and will be in and out. I'll ckeck back to see what your next question is.
mustangboy78 on 12/23/2005 20:54:14
The HU I'm installing is Tenfull (it was a gift from e-bay) and I thought about the reset button too, and tried reseting it but that didn't really change anything. I also got a wiring harness from Car-Toys that hooks up into a sqare gray plug that was plugged into an amp, but that only wired up my speakers, still no power. Tomorrow I'm hoping it won't rain so I can try to locate the rest of the wires, only this time I'll use my meter to make sure that everything checks out. Also I already have an aftermarket amp so I really want to just bypass the factory one (i think it would be easier) and 2 10" subs that are wired separately and recieving signal from the rear speaker, but I think now when I get my new HU wired, I'll run RCAs but that is a whole another project. First I have to get the HU and my 7" screen wired, what I might also have some questions on but more on that when the time comes.
Thank you all, and I'll let you all know how tomorrow escapade goes
swez on 12/23/2005 23:57:10
Good idea, just bypass the factory amps and run new speaker wires and RCA's from your Aftermarket HU.
Are you just planning to amp the subs and run speakers off the new HU or amp the speakers too? Depending on the bass power used, you may want to look into a good 4 channel amp for your speakers as well. Most of the newer amps have pass through RCA's so you can connect your sub amp without running additional cables from the HU. That will work cleaner than tapping the rear speakers for subwoofer amp inputs.
Swez
PS I think ttocs is right. Ford has been using JBL products for their Premium Sound systems. Mustangs often have the Mach 360 system installed. I hear these are pretty good, but pesty to Aftermarket system integrations.
ttocs on 12/24/2005 11:11:53
if you are going to add a sub you will need to bypass the factory amp. I have added subs to those systems without bypassing it and it just sounds bad........ They have everything tuned so that when your aftermarket sub is just trying to get warmed up, the factory jbl is already so distorted that it just sounds bad. The way I explained will fix this, and really is the easiest premium sound bypass there is... You will not use the small grey square one, instead you need to get a standard ford speaker hrns.
mustangboy78 on 12/25/2005 15:04:17
OK, everyone...Here's what's going on. I used the voltage meter and found out that what I thought was my ignition 12V really wasn't so I found out one that is. But when I hooked up my new HU nothing happened. Than I went back and double checked voltage on all of the connections and when stereo is hooked up the 12V battery wirer only reads 3.33V. If I disconnect the HU it goes back up to the 12V. There is a little black box on the red and black wires coming from the stereo that has a fuse and some type of coil on it. I checked the fuse and it's OK, and so is the fuse on the yellow wire (for 12V ignition)...I'm seriously running out of ideas. Anybody knows why would a 12V battery change voltage after is hooked up to the HU???
ttocs on 12/25/2005 18:29:05
Are you using an aftermarket hrns, or was the factory hrns hacked off? Where is the deck grounded? Ford likes to use red for ground but even better yet ground it to the chassis, or you could even try the cig lighter temporarily... I just want to make sure the deck works at this point.
take the +12v switched and the +12v constant from the radio, to the +12v constant on the car. Now you should be able to turn the deck on, even with the car off
mustangboy78 on 12/25/2005 19:58:51
The deck works. But what I had to do is wire both, red and yellow (12V constant and 12V switched) from the new HU to the 12V switched in the car. Only problem I have now is I can't find a constant so I'm losing all my settings and nothing turns on when I put the key back. I have to turn everything on every time I shut of the car .
mustangboy78 on 12/25/2005 20:04:29
Oh, yes, I also forgot to mention...The stereo only works if 12V constant (on the HU) is wired to the 12V switched on the vehicle.
ttocs on 12/26/2005 10:53:47
ok good, we know the deck works and it seems as though your +12v constant is missing. Are your dome light and cig lighter working? Check your fuses, and check them ALL. Do not try to pull the one fuse that you think it may be, just check them all one at a time.
I assume by work that meant it had sound? If you wire into(not around) the premium sound system you will need to make sure you connect the remote turn on from the deck .
If all your fuses are good, and you still have no +12v constant, you can also use the wire that connects to the cig lighter, or run a new one from the fusebox.
mustangboy78 on 12/27/2005 00:48:55
Thank you all sooooo very much. So here is what I did and it works (for now). I used a factory 12 switched (which is by the way a purple/black on a stock hrns if anybody ever needs to know), and a factory ground which is a thin black wire. I used a plug that was connected to the factory amp and bought a hrns that plugs directly into it and that connected all my speakers, than spliced a wires from the new HU into the new hrns and that gave us sound. Next I ran a new 12 constant from a wire that runs to the dome light from the fuse box under the dash (which was a major pain but it works). That wired in the new HU and speakers and bypassed the factory amp. Next I told you all that I had a 7" monitor to wire in the top slot. I spliced the wires from that unit into same wires I used for the stereo and plugged the RCAs from one unit to another and now we have sound and the picture...HOOORAY.
Next was the aftermarket amp and few subs in the trunk. Here is where I could use some help because what I have works but not so great. I'm gonna run RCAs but until than I'm still using the rear speakers for a signal (something I had to do with factory stereo), but my new trouble is remote wire for the amp. Every time I crank up the sound a little the amp and the screen start acting out. Now the remote wire is done way ghetto by my friend who just wrapped the wire around the stereo fuse and plugged it in. I need a better solution for this because I think now I'm overloading that circuit way to much. The amp is an older Jensen (500W) and subs are by Coustic in a enclosed box. My question is if I ran RCAs from the new HU to the amp and find a new circuit for remote wire for the amp should this solve my problem???
Thank you all (especially ttocs) for helping me troubleshoot all this mess and making my ride little more enjoyable, and Merry X-Mass to all.
ttocs on 12/27/2005 09:51:33
how does it sound with out bypassing the amp? Like I said when I have added a sub to a factory system is sounded bad. Remember the gain on the sub amp should not need to be more then 2/3-3/4 max. It you have it turned all the way up you will be driving the amp hard and risking blowing it and the sub.
You will need to be more specific on "acting out" for me to be able to help. By the description I am getting I imagine a huge mess of wires by this time, am I right?
One amp will not overlaod the remote turn on output.
mustangboy78 on 12/27/2005 12:25:40
By acting out I mean, when I turn the volume on the stereo little higher (I"m not talking waaaaay loud, trying to get myself deaf loud), the screen starts flikering, and than sometimes the sound gets distorted for a few secunds, than gets quet, and than it's all better again. Now, my amp is turned way down, like barely a 1/4" of a turn on a power dial, so I know I'm not pushing the amp too hard, or trying to blow up my subs. I don't really like it tooooo loud, and I hate distortion, but I like a nice full sound.
Now if I don't use the amp or the subs at all, than everything is fine. And you are right, the wires were getting pretty messy. I think I'm done with the HU and the screen though, so I shouldn't have to tear back into the dash, and I made the RCA output easily reached through the back so when I run my RCAs to the trunk I think I can make it without taking the HU out.
ttocs on 12/27/2005 12:42:46
I really don't think the thin black wire you are using as a ground is correct. How did you determine it was the ground?. When checking wires that use to connect to the dash for power or ground, you must check the wire with the key off, on, and then with the lights off and on. There are wires in the dash that appear to be a ground until the key is turned, or the lights are on, as well as there could be a ground for the factory amp built into the deck hrns.
Did you cut off the factory hrns or are you using an aftermarket hrns to connect for pwr and ground? If you used an aftermarket hrns there may be 2 black wires, one for the deck ground and one for the factory amp ground. Normally they will mark these wires with small writting, on the wires... If you are not using a aftermarket hrns, ford likes to use red as ground, not black.
Try grounding the deck to the chassis rather then in the factory wiring.
mustangboy78 on 12/27/2005 19:57:14
I think you are right my friend...It's not the amp that's cutting out. It's the deck. And I think you are right about the ground too. I'm going to try that and let you know if it fixes problem. I'm only using aftermarket harness for the speakers, because the one that I bought only connects speakers not the power. Maybe that might be my problem too...I'm gonna reground to the chasis and see if that fixes my problem. I'm also wandering if it was a mistake wiring a screen and a deck together...Should I look for a different power source for a screen? Or is everything on one circuit OK.
ttocs on 12/28/2005 11:13:58
It depends on the screen and deck that you put in. If you look at the fuse that is on the power wire for both, and add those numbers up, they should not total over 25-30 amps. Alot of screens do not need as much power but if it is over 30 amps you should run a new power wire.
While you have the deck and screen out, look inside the consol on the passenger side. There will be 2-3 wire hrns and bundles of wire clipped to the inside of the consol. In the the hrns will have a 8 wires, and a rectangular shaped hrns that are plugged in together where the wires clip to the consol. With the deck on, unplug the hrns's and the deck should remain on, but the sound will stop. If you go to a local stereo shop or auto part store, you will be able to buy a standard ford radio hrns(it will have the power hrns as well but it is too late now). The black hrn in the package will be able to plug into the hrns you just unplugged, and you will now have bypassed the factory amps.... This will give you much better sound as now the factory amps will not amplify the distortion from the deck.
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