WATTUP GUYS, IM NEW TO DIS FORUM BUT JUST WONDERING IF ANY OF U GUYS ARE SELLING SOME SPARE AMPS...MONO BLOCK AMPS IS WHAT IM LOOKING FOR..POSSIBLY SOME JL 500/1's OR SUMTHING SIMILAR ON THE PERFORMANCE BUT NOT THE PRICE...IF U GUYS ARE WONDERING WHAT SET UP I HAVE...I HAVE 2 12" W3D4 AND A ALPINE CDA 9833 FOR MY DECK..MY MIDS AND HIGHS ARE INFINITY'S...
OK...NOW JUST WONDERING IF U GUYS GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A CHEAPER AMP THAT WILL PRODUCE DA SAME PERFORMACE AS THE JL 500/1's.
ANOTHER QUESTION I HAVE IS, IF U GUYS KNO BOUT THE JL W3 D4, HOW MANY WATTS DOES IT REALLY PUSHES?? I HEARD 250WATTS SOME SAYS 300WATTS,
AND HOW MANY OHMS DO THEY HAVE? 2 OR 1?...
IF U KNO ANYTHING BOUT IT..JUST COMMENT ME UP ON THIS POST...
THANKS U GUYS...
Replies (24)
P0werLifter on 12/15/2005 23:22:25
LOONITICK on 12/15/2005 23:25:53
haahah my bad homie..hahaha
compvr15s on 12/16/2005 06:20:12
jl's website jlaudio.com says that they handle 300 watts RMS. as for amping these,
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2748.html
PG 600 watt RMS at 1to4ohm load(nice if you get different woofers later)
$240,good name brand, class d(high efficieny 80%+)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3490.html
hifonics 600 watt RMS@1ohm, class a/b(lower efficieny than class d)
$140 bucks, pretty good amp for the price
both amps will do the job, both are probably a lil less power than the jl 500/1 but cost alot less too. they will both give your w3s the power that you need though... the subs you mentioned are dual 4omh VC subs, so a 1omh stable amp or a 4ohm amp with 600 watts is what you need... what type of music you like, what type of boxes are you using for your subs?? if you do not have boxes yet, let us know what you are looking for and we can direct you in the right way, may it be sealed, ported, ect... good luck
these subs are very decent, jl makes some top notch gear just wish thier prices were more affordable. any other questions just ask.
LOONITICK on 12/16/2005 23:28:01
thanks alot compvr15s , i thought hifonics and all phonix gold was cheap generic brands dat wont do the job,i guess i was wrong...but yea, i do have a Ported Enclosure box(with the opening on the side)...its a custom made box that runs only 2 speaker cable connector for bothe the subs, so jsut positive and negative..is that a good box or u got othr suggestions? and yea my subs are hooked up right now but im pushing it with a 2 channel crossfire amp..its like 700 watts..its doing the job but one of the subs has mids coming out of it instead of all bass..the other side is just doing fine..it doesnt sound the way i want it to be...u got any tips on how to make it all bass? brindging? i dont really kno wat that means..wat i did was just connect the wires to da amp wer it plays the subs..lol...another thing, are u sure they are 300 watts not 250watts? kus i have the 12w3 D4 not the 12w3V2-D4..i got the one before that model i think...well i guess thats it for now, hit me up whenver is clever..thanks
compvr15s on 12/17/2005 05:19:39
if you have mids playing through one woofer it sounds like you just need to adjust your crossover on the amp. do you have a model number on the amp you are using right now??? this amp may be able to run your subs fine maybe just some tweaking is needed, all of which we can walk you through, very simple with patience and planning... oh im sorry on referring to the w3v2 version of the subs, i could not find any specs so im not positive if they handle 300 watts... since you are using a ported enclosure your subs will actually need less power to make them work to their full potential... id say probably 175-200 at the most.... was the box built for those subs or was it just a box that was laying around... if you have an improper enclosure(one that is out of specs for the driver that is in it) it can make even the best of subs sound horrible... if you are not sure on the box, take some simple measurements, Lenght,Width,Height... also port measurments, (if using pvc type ports measure the diameter of the hole and also the lenght from tip to tip), if using a square port measure the Lenght,Width, and Height of the opening... also measure the thickness of the wood used(should .75inch) and if each sub is ported seperatly or if the inside of the box is open and they share a single port...this will help us tell the internal volume of the box as well as the port frequency....
so try to find a model number on that amp so we can find the specs, sounds like to me this amp should work fine to run your subs, just improper settings sounds like your issue right now... a 400-500 watt amp will give those subs all the power they need to run, if you go much higher with a ported enclosure you can damage your equipment if you are not careful with the settings... another thing to know about ported boxes is that a subsonic filter is needed to keep the subs from playing (damaging)frequencies that are lower than port tuning...
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t29
here is a nice link to read about subsonic filters, this was posted by SWEZ, (the grandpa of the site lol, he tends to overlook us youngens)
hope this helps, get us this info and we can get started on helping ya more. good luck
Victor on 12/17/2005 05:27:39
Grandpa's missing tho.. and Kiddos are getting wild on the site ...
LOONITICK on 12/18/2005 01:18:52
iight thanks alot on everything, but yea my bad i dont got the model number on the amp...it doesnt say anything on it..ill check it tomorrow during the day time, ill get some mesurements on the box also. im pretty sure the subs came in with those box...one of my homies gave me an amp today..its a Kicker KX1200.1 monoblock D class...im not sure if this gonna mess up my subs after reading your post, but no worries, i didnt hook em up yet..but yea man, ill jsut update u with the box messurements..and thanks for the info on subsonic filter...
LOONITICK on 12/18/2005 01:36:31
oh yea the box is only single port..they are wired together inside no in the box..only one big opening on the side..
compvr15s on 12/18/2005 02:45:58
that kicker kx amp will work, its a 1ohm stable amp. just need to be very careful on gain settings, it will definitly overpower those subs in no time, even easier with a ported enclosure. has a built in sub sonic filter so wiring the amp to the subs make sure you flip it to on... as for setting this amp with those subs it will be by ear, when setting this make sure your eq and sub setting on your cd player are at zero. turn your stereo up to where you thinnk you will listen to it at its loudest for any giving time(but no more than 75) or go until your interior speakers are distorting and then go down a few notches. on the amp there are 3 knobs on the top, bass boost, gain, and frequency.turn the bass boost down to zero this will not be needed, turn the freq to 80-100hz, and the gain setting i would bet wont need to be over 25% of the way, the best way it just to turn until your subs distort a weebit and then back of a hair or two... just make sure you have a proper enclosure for the sub before you do anything... just a word in advance this amp can draw quite a bit of power, you wont be pushing it hard so you might be ok. if you do have problems with your lights dimming, i would highly recommed you do the big 3 wire upgrades under your hood, there is another post of the site that talks about that if you cant find it let me know.... but that may fix your problem, if not then a stronger alternator is probably in the works and you current on may just not be strong enough...let us know about the specs on your box so we can see if it will work out for ya... good luck glad to be of service so far
LOONITICK on 12/19/2005 21:27:15
thanks for the info on that bro, my bad if i took long to respond but i been busy with work...but yea bro, i jsut got 1 question in mind, wer does the speaker wire need to go from the subs to the amp? do i connect it to both the positives of the L and R of the amp(crossfire 2 channel) or the negatives of the L and R? just wondering kus today i messed with it a lil bit and when i turned it up it died on me..the amp got hott now also..im pretty sure it didnt do that before kus i would felt it whenver i adjsut it..it never did that before so im thinkin i did sumthing wrong with the connections..it only happends when i turn the volume up to like 15-20, and the crossover on the amp is fliped on the LPF and freq is set on 50hz of 50hz-150hz...and bout the mids playing through the woofer, i fixed dat already..the frequency was set to 150hz i jsut moved it down to 50hz..is that bad or its ok? u think that might be da reason why it was dying on me? just get back at me when u got time..thnx..
LOONITICK on 12/19/2005 21:34:34
about the Kicker KX1200.1 amp..i hooked it to my jl 13 1/2 w7 in my suv...
swez on 12/22/2005 18:05:45
Wire your JL 13W7 coils in series for a net 3 ohm load. That will net about 900 watts (RMS) to a single sub. That's in the optimal zone for power for this sub. (Kicker KX-1200.1 amp)
If this is a ported box, set your subsonic filter (SSF) to about 35 - 40Hz., for now. Also, set your Low Pass Filter (LPF) to about 80 Hz. That's pretty much the norm for car audio subs.
Question 4 U: Is the W7 in a ported box? If yes, do you have the physical dimensions of the box and port available? Knowing that information is important for setting your SSF correctly. If you run the sub at full power and have the wrong SSF settings, it can damage your sub.
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/22/2005 18:48:05
3/4" Wall Thickness w/ 1" Front Baffle Thickness
Volume (net int.): 2.375 cu. ft.
Ported Extension Length (EL): 8.875"
Tuned to (Hz): 34.59
F3 (Hz): 31.0
Slot Port Internal Dimensions (Slot W x Slot H x Slot L): 2.0" x 15.75" x 25.375"
External Dimensions (W x H x D): 25.25" x 17.25" x 16.5"
thats the specs of the w7 box...and thanks for the tip swez..but i still want to know why my amp is cutting when i turn up my subs...it didnt happen before...
LOONITICK on 12/22/2005 18:55:37
this is for the 2 w3's dats hooked up on the crossfire amp 2 ch...any better solution for a better thump?...
swez on 12/22/2005 20:06:11
Yep, that box is a very good fit for your W7 sub. Set your SSF @ 35 Hz. The rest is all there.
About your Crossfire amp and the other subs, the problem is probably more to do with how they are matched (mis-matched) to that amp. Crossfire makes some fine amps and JL makes great subs & amps too. But, if we wire the subs incorrectly, or set the amp gains wrong, the amp will shut down when we push it hard.
What amp model # (Crossfire) do you have here and which sub model did you use? The W3 come in V2 (dual coil) versions of 2+2, 4+4 and 6+6 DVC's. Depending on the model you have here, wiring them correctly and gain setting the amp to optimal should correct the problems noted.
Say more please,
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/22/2005 20:49:37
i dont have the model # for the crossfire amp kus to top plate is missing and theres no barcode or anything for me to find out the model and the wattage for this..will a picture help? jsut wondering...but yea the subs i have are the ones before the V2 models of jl i have the 250rms ones instead of the 300rms..its the 12w3-D4..not da V2 model...u think my amp doesnt have enough power to push my subs? i mean it pushed it before . maybe kus it was wired wrong before kus now i jsut followed the amp connections..it says bridgeable - + i just wired it to those....the subs sounds better but now the amp cuts out..so im thinkin it could b da amp not having enough power..jsut hit me up g..thanks
swez on 12/23/2005 00:35:00
Since you have a 2 channel amp, you have 2 options with these JL subs noted:
1a. Wire each sub in parallel (2 ohms per sub)
2a. Run each sub off its own channel on that Crossfire amp (stereo)
1b. Bridge the amp to MONO mode
2b. Wire each sub coil set in series (8 ohms per sub)
3b. Wire both subs in parallel to amp (net 4 ohm load)
Either option is fine. Whatever wiring method is easiest for you, is acceptable. (Same power output from amp here)
That Crossfire amp, I can "guestimate" power output from this amp, based on its fuses. What amperage fuse(s) are in this amp?
Finally, depending on your responses, we can walk you through the rest.
Swez
PS If your amp gain is set improperly, the amp will cycle on and off. Also, if the subs are not wired properly to the amp, it will heat up, shut off and come back on in a few seconds. That usually means the amp and subs are not set up properly.
LOONITICK on 12/24/2005 23:47:52
wazzup swez, i tryed to run it into one channel of the amp only, still did the same problem..imma have to check up the wirings inside, ill try to wire em in parallel..read bout it in the how to section of this forum..pretty interesting stuff...but yea, the amp uses a single 40 amperage fuse..hope that helps..and i noticed that both of the subs are releasing music even tho its set on the LTF, not loud but its i can hear it unless i turn up the bass..iono if thats normal or maybe i need to adjust the wiring inside the box...oh well just have a nice and a merry christmas!!
swez on 12/25/2005 01:56:57
The subs mentioned, are they dual coil, (4+4) or a single coil, 4 ohm model? Depending on your answer, I 'll come back with some wiring options for you to try. Got a link from the JL site on these?
This amp is fused at 40A. That will net about 300 watts RMS into a net 4 ohm load when bridged. It should give you about 150 watts RMS per channel to a 2 ohm load and about 100 watts per channel into a 4 ohm load/ch.
We may be looking at a damaged amp here. If that Crossfire was miswired before, it could have a few damaged internal components. Not sure about that one just yet. A few quick diagnostics test will tell us what's up. I'll give them to you later.
Merrry Christmas!
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/25/2005 11:46:17
iight heres the specs of the subs... i searched it online
JL AUDIO 12W3-D4 12 inch 4-OHM SUBWOOFER
Depth: 6.56 inches
Installation Opening Diameter: 12.25 inches
RMS Power handling: 250 Watts
Sensitivity: 87.2dB / W / m
Size: 12 inches
Type: Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm
hook it up with some wiring tips..thanks
Merry Christmas
swez on 12/25/2005 12:08:06
Use this diagram if you bridge the amp. It provides a net ohmic load of 4 ohms to the amp.
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
The other option, is to wire each sub to its own channel. Here, both coils on the sub are wired in parallel for a net 2 ohms. Here's a diagram for how to wire a DVC sub in paralle to 1 amp channel. Repeat the steps for your 2nd sub, wired to channel B.
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=1dvcparallel1yl.jpg
Merry Chritmas,
Swez
PS If the amp still shuts down, most likely an internal problem here and you'll need to take it in for repairs. Figure about $60.00 labor, plus parts and taxes. A new/used amp with more power can be had off e-bay for well under $150.00.
If you elect to go that route, consider a Class D amp that is 1 ohm stable or a 2 channel amp. Look for one that can deleiver a solid 450-500 watts RMS. It will be fused at 50-60A, depending on the brand and design.
LOONITICK on 12/26/2005 00:05:06
wassup swez, i did this option: http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
it worked well, my amp doesnt heat up anymore, only got warm and it doesnt cut out on me anymore, still a lil song playing tho, is that normal, i mean its not loud or anything it jsut goes with the bass...is it part of the low's? i pretty much listen to rap so im not sure if thats normal or not but thanks for the tip bro...good lookin out..thanks
swez on 12/26/2005 13:32:55
If you are getting mids out of the subs, it's because the LPF (Low Pass Filter) is not set properly. We generally recommend settings between 80-100 Hz., for the LPF. Check your filter to see how it is set now. If you are hearing vocals and other non-bass material from the subs, the filter is set too high. (200 Hz or higher, will cause this)
If for some reason, your amp does not have a LPF, you can buy a pair of "inline" F-Mods that plug between RCA jacks and amp inputs.
Here's what they look like and very simple to install:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jybLmpijOXz/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=069900062
This is the 100 Hz., version. They also have a 70 Hz., version that you can also use for subs. Just remember, you need a LOW PASS FILTER here. All audio above the set frequency will be filtered out.
The amp and subs are now working OK? Cool! Must have had the subs wired wrong. If all coils were wired in parallel, the amp sees a 1 ohm load. In bridged mode, the amp will overheat and shut off or may not turn on at all. The amp was detecting a practically "dead short" and was shutting down to protect itself. That's a good amp and doing what it should. CLAP
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/26/2005 16:20:22
thanks alot for the help swez. i learned alot from u and this forum..you are all APPRECIATED..THANKS
Happy Holidays...
OK...NOW JUST WONDERING IF U GUYS GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A CHEAPER AMP THAT WILL PRODUCE DA SAME PERFORMACE AS THE JL 500/1's.
ANOTHER QUESTION I HAVE IS, IF U GUYS KNO BOUT THE JL W3 D4, HOW MANY WATTS DOES IT REALLY PUSHES?? I HEARD 250WATTS SOME SAYS 300WATTS,
AND HOW MANY OHMS DO THEY HAVE? 2 OR 1?...
IF U KNO ANYTHING BOUT IT..JUST COMMENT ME UP ON THIS POST...
THANKS U GUYS...
Replies (24)
P0werLifter on 12/15/2005 23:22:25
LOONITICK on 12/15/2005 23:25:53
haahah my bad homie..hahaha
compvr15s on 12/16/2005 06:20:12
jl's website jlaudio.com says that they handle 300 watts RMS. as for amping these,
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2748.html
PG 600 watt RMS at 1to4ohm load(nice if you get different woofers later)
$240,good name brand, class d(high efficieny 80%+)
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_3490.html
hifonics 600 watt RMS@1ohm, class a/b(lower efficieny than class d)
$140 bucks, pretty good amp for the price
both amps will do the job, both are probably a lil less power than the jl 500/1 but cost alot less too. they will both give your w3s the power that you need though... the subs you mentioned are dual 4omh VC subs, so a 1omh stable amp or a 4ohm amp with 600 watts is what you need... what type of music you like, what type of boxes are you using for your subs?? if you do not have boxes yet, let us know what you are looking for and we can direct you in the right way, may it be sealed, ported, ect... good luck
these subs are very decent, jl makes some top notch gear just wish thier prices were more affordable. any other questions just ask.
LOONITICK on 12/16/2005 23:28:01
thanks alot compvr15s , i thought hifonics and all phonix gold was cheap generic brands dat wont do the job,i guess i was wrong...but yea, i do have a Ported Enclosure box(with the opening on the side)...its a custom made box that runs only 2 speaker cable connector for bothe the subs, so jsut positive and negative..is that a good box or u got othr suggestions? and yea my subs are hooked up right now but im pushing it with a 2 channel crossfire amp..its like 700 watts..its doing the job but one of the subs has mids coming out of it instead of all bass..the other side is just doing fine..it doesnt sound the way i want it to be...u got any tips on how to make it all bass? brindging? i dont really kno wat that means..wat i did was just connect the wires to da amp wer it plays the subs..lol...another thing, are u sure they are 300 watts not 250watts? kus i have the 12w3 D4 not the 12w3V2-D4..i got the one before that model i think...well i guess thats it for now, hit me up whenver is clever..thanks
compvr15s on 12/17/2005 05:19:39
if you have mids playing through one woofer it sounds like you just need to adjust your crossover on the amp. do you have a model number on the amp you are using right now??? this amp may be able to run your subs fine maybe just some tweaking is needed, all of which we can walk you through, very simple with patience and planning... oh im sorry on referring to the w3v2 version of the subs, i could not find any specs so im not positive if they handle 300 watts... since you are using a ported enclosure your subs will actually need less power to make them work to their full potential... id say probably 175-200 at the most.... was the box built for those subs or was it just a box that was laying around... if you have an improper enclosure(one that is out of specs for the driver that is in it) it can make even the best of subs sound horrible... if you are not sure on the box, take some simple measurements, Lenght,Width,Height... also port measurments, (if using pvc type ports measure the diameter of the hole and also the lenght from tip to tip), if using a square port measure the Lenght,Width, and Height of the opening... also measure the thickness of the wood used(should .75inch) and if each sub is ported seperatly or if the inside of the box is open and they share a single port...this will help us tell the internal volume of the box as well as the port frequency....
so try to find a model number on that amp so we can find the specs, sounds like to me this amp should work fine to run your subs, just improper settings sounds like your issue right now... a 400-500 watt amp will give those subs all the power they need to run, if you go much higher with a ported enclosure you can damage your equipment if you are not careful with the settings... another thing to know about ported boxes is that a subsonic filter is needed to keep the subs from playing (damaging)frequencies that are lower than port tuning...
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t29
here is a nice link to read about subsonic filters, this was posted by SWEZ, (the grandpa of the site lol, he tends to overlook us youngens)
hope this helps, get us this info and we can get started on helping ya more. good luck
Victor on 12/17/2005 05:27:39
Grandpa's missing tho.. and Kiddos are getting wild on the site ...
LOONITICK on 12/18/2005 01:18:52
iight thanks alot on everything, but yea my bad i dont got the model number on the amp...it doesnt say anything on it..ill check it tomorrow during the day time, ill get some mesurements on the box also. im pretty sure the subs came in with those box...one of my homies gave me an amp today..its a Kicker KX1200.1 monoblock D class...im not sure if this gonna mess up my subs after reading your post, but no worries, i didnt hook em up yet..but yea man, ill jsut update u with the box messurements..and thanks for the info on subsonic filter...
LOONITICK on 12/18/2005 01:36:31
oh yea the box is only single port..they are wired together inside no in the box..only one big opening on the side..
compvr15s on 12/18/2005 02:45:58
that kicker kx amp will work, its a 1ohm stable amp. just need to be very careful on gain settings, it will definitly overpower those subs in no time, even easier with a ported enclosure. has a built in sub sonic filter so wiring the amp to the subs make sure you flip it to on... as for setting this amp with those subs it will be by ear, when setting this make sure your eq and sub setting on your cd player are at zero. turn your stereo up to where you thinnk you will listen to it at its loudest for any giving time(but no more than 75) or go until your interior speakers are distorting and then go down a few notches. on the amp there are 3 knobs on the top, bass boost, gain, and frequency.turn the bass boost down to zero this will not be needed, turn the freq to 80-100hz, and the gain setting i would bet wont need to be over 25% of the way, the best way it just to turn until your subs distort a weebit and then back of a hair or two... just make sure you have a proper enclosure for the sub before you do anything... just a word in advance this amp can draw quite a bit of power, you wont be pushing it hard so you might be ok. if you do have problems with your lights dimming, i would highly recommed you do the big 3 wire upgrades under your hood, there is another post of the site that talks about that if you cant find it let me know.... but that may fix your problem, if not then a stronger alternator is probably in the works and you current on may just not be strong enough...let us know about the specs on your box so we can see if it will work out for ya... good luck glad to be of service so far
LOONITICK on 12/19/2005 21:27:15
thanks for the info on that bro, my bad if i took long to respond but i been busy with work...but yea bro, i jsut got 1 question in mind, wer does the speaker wire need to go from the subs to the amp? do i connect it to both the positives of the L and R of the amp(crossfire 2 channel) or the negatives of the L and R? just wondering kus today i messed with it a lil bit and when i turned it up it died on me..the amp got hott now also..im pretty sure it didnt do that before kus i would felt it whenver i adjsut it..it never did that before so im thinkin i did sumthing wrong with the connections..it only happends when i turn the volume up to like 15-20, and the crossover on the amp is fliped on the LPF and freq is set on 50hz of 50hz-150hz...and bout the mids playing through the woofer, i fixed dat already..the frequency was set to 150hz i jsut moved it down to 50hz..is that bad or its ok? u think that might be da reason why it was dying on me? just get back at me when u got time..thnx..
LOONITICK on 12/19/2005 21:34:34
about the Kicker KX1200.1 amp..i hooked it to my jl 13 1/2 w7 in my suv...
swez on 12/22/2005 18:05:45
Wire your JL 13W7 coils in series for a net 3 ohm load. That will net about 900 watts (RMS) to a single sub. That's in the optimal zone for power for this sub. (Kicker KX-1200.1 amp)
If this is a ported box, set your subsonic filter (SSF) to about 35 - 40Hz., for now. Also, set your Low Pass Filter (LPF) to about 80 Hz. That's pretty much the norm for car audio subs.
Question 4 U: Is the W7 in a ported box? If yes, do you have the physical dimensions of the box and port available? Knowing that information is important for setting your SSF correctly. If you run the sub at full power and have the wrong SSF settings, it can damage your sub.
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/22/2005 18:48:05
3/4" Wall Thickness w/ 1" Front Baffle Thickness
Volume (net int.): 2.375 cu. ft.
Ported Extension Length (EL): 8.875"
Tuned to (Hz): 34.59
F3 (Hz): 31.0
Slot Port Internal Dimensions (Slot W x Slot H x Slot L): 2.0" x 15.75" x 25.375"
External Dimensions (W x H x D): 25.25" x 17.25" x 16.5"
thats the specs of the w7 box...and thanks for the tip swez..but i still want to know why my amp is cutting when i turn up my subs...it didnt happen before...
LOONITICK on 12/22/2005 18:55:37
this is for the 2 w3's dats hooked up on the crossfire amp 2 ch...any better solution for a better thump?...
swez on 12/22/2005 20:06:11
Yep, that box is a very good fit for your W7 sub. Set your SSF @ 35 Hz. The rest is all there.
About your Crossfire amp and the other subs, the problem is probably more to do with how they are matched (mis-matched) to that amp. Crossfire makes some fine amps and JL makes great subs & amps too. But, if we wire the subs incorrectly, or set the amp gains wrong, the amp will shut down when we push it hard.
What amp model # (Crossfire) do you have here and which sub model did you use? The W3 come in V2 (dual coil) versions of 2+2, 4+4 and 6+6 DVC's. Depending on the model you have here, wiring them correctly and gain setting the amp to optimal should correct the problems noted.
Say more please,
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/22/2005 20:49:37
i dont have the model # for the crossfire amp kus to top plate is missing and theres no barcode or anything for me to find out the model and the wattage for this..will a picture help? jsut wondering...but yea the subs i have are the ones before the V2 models of jl i have the 250rms ones instead of the 300rms..its the 12w3-D4..not da V2 model...u think my amp doesnt have enough power to push my subs? i mean it pushed it before . maybe kus it was wired wrong before kus now i jsut followed the amp connections..it says bridgeable - + i just wired it to those....the subs sounds better but now the amp cuts out..so im thinkin it could b da amp not having enough power..jsut hit me up g..thanks
swez on 12/23/2005 00:35:00
Since you have a 2 channel amp, you have 2 options with these JL subs noted:
1a. Wire each sub in parallel (2 ohms per sub)
2a. Run each sub off its own channel on that Crossfire amp (stereo)
1b. Bridge the amp to MONO mode
2b. Wire each sub coil set in series (8 ohms per sub)
3b. Wire both subs in parallel to amp (net 4 ohm load)
Either option is fine. Whatever wiring method is easiest for you, is acceptable. (Same power output from amp here)
That Crossfire amp, I can "guestimate" power output from this amp, based on its fuses. What amperage fuse(s) are in this amp?
Finally, depending on your responses, we can walk you through the rest.
Swez
PS If your amp gain is set improperly, the amp will cycle on and off. Also, if the subs are not wired properly to the amp, it will heat up, shut off and come back on in a few seconds. That usually means the amp and subs are not set up properly.
LOONITICK on 12/24/2005 23:47:52
wazzup swez, i tryed to run it into one channel of the amp only, still did the same problem..imma have to check up the wirings inside, ill try to wire em in parallel..read bout it in the how to section of this forum..pretty interesting stuff...but yea, the amp uses a single 40 amperage fuse..hope that helps..and i noticed that both of the subs are releasing music even tho its set on the LTF, not loud but its i can hear it unless i turn up the bass..iono if thats normal or maybe i need to adjust the wiring inside the box...oh well just have a nice and a merry christmas!!
swez on 12/25/2005 01:56:57
The subs mentioned, are they dual coil, (4+4) or a single coil, 4 ohm model? Depending on your answer, I 'll come back with some wiring options for you to try. Got a link from the JL site on these?
This amp is fused at 40A. That will net about 300 watts RMS into a net 4 ohm load when bridged. It should give you about 150 watts RMS per channel to a 2 ohm load and about 100 watts per channel into a 4 ohm load/ch.
We may be looking at a damaged amp here. If that Crossfire was miswired before, it could have a few damaged internal components. Not sure about that one just yet. A few quick diagnostics test will tell us what's up. I'll give them to you later.
Merrry Christmas!
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/25/2005 11:46:17
iight heres the specs of the subs... i searched it online
JL AUDIO 12W3-D4 12 inch 4-OHM SUBWOOFER
Depth: 6.56 inches
Installation Opening Diameter: 12.25 inches
RMS Power handling: 250 Watts
Sensitivity: 87.2dB / W / m
Size: 12 inches
Type: Dual Voice Coil 4 Ohm
hook it up with some wiring tips..thanks
Merry Christmas
swez on 12/25/2005 12:08:06
Use this diagram if you bridge the amp. It provides a net ohmic load of 4 ohms to the amp.
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
The other option, is to wire each sub to its own channel. Here, both coils on the sub are wired in parallel for a net 2 ohms. Here's a diagram for how to wire a DVC sub in paralle to 1 amp channel. Repeat the steps for your 2nd sub, wired to channel B.
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=1dvcparallel1yl.jpg
Merry Chritmas,
Swez
PS If the amp still shuts down, most likely an internal problem here and you'll need to take it in for repairs. Figure about $60.00 labor, plus parts and taxes. A new/used amp with more power can be had off e-bay for well under $150.00.
If you elect to go that route, consider a Class D amp that is 1 ohm stable or a 2 channel amp. Look for one that can deleiver a solid 450-500 watts RMS. It will be fused at 50-60A, depending on the brand and design.
LOONITICK on 12/26/2005 00:05:06
wassup swez, i did this option: http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
it worked well, my amp doesnt heat up anymore, only got warm and it doesnt cut out on me anymore, still a lil song playing tho, is that normal, i mean its not loud or anything it jsut goes with the bass...is it part of the low's? i pretty much listen to rap so im not sure if thats normal or not but thanks for the tip bro...good lookin out..thanks
swez on 12/26/2005 13:32:55
If you are getting mids out of the subs, it's because the LPF (Low Pass Filter) is not set properly. We generally recommend settings between 80-100 Hz., for the LPF. Check your filter to see how it is set now. If you are hearing vocals and other non-bass material from the subs, the filter is set too high. (200 Hz or higher, will cause this)
If for some reason, your amp does not have a LPF, you can buy a pair of "inline" F-Mods that plug between RCA jacks and amp inputs.
Here's what they look like and very simple to install:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-jybLmpijOXz/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=069900062
This is the 100 Hz., version. They also have a 70 Hz., version that you can also use for subs. Just remember, you need a LOW PASS FILTER here. All audio above the set frequency will be filtered out.
The amp and subs are now working OK? Cool! Must have had the subs wired wrong. If all coils were wired in parallel, the amp sees a 1 ohm load. In bridged mode, the amp will overheat and shut off or may not turn on at all. The amp was detecting a practically "dead short" and was shutting down to protect itself. That's a good amp and doing what it should. CLAP
Swez
LOONITICK on 12/26/2005 16:20:22
thanks alot for the help swez. i learned alot from u and this forum..you are all APPRECIATED..THANKS
Happy Holidays...
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