I have a Alpine 10" bandpass subwoofer. Can I replace the subwoofer part of it to a better Alpine sub? If so which one would be best
Replies (6)
ILikeBass on 07/25/2003 12:53:11
Well, this depends on the woofer itself.
Only certain subwoofers will work in your bandpass box (they are not universal like most sealed) if you could give more info on what you are planning to switch to.
Make of the sub you have now, and the one you want to get.
all info you know or have about your bandpass box.
me and others on this board will try our best to see what we can make work for you. BTW, have you ever thought about using a diferent box like going ported, or sealed. maybe you could pick up another 10 alpine that you already have and put them in a sealed box, would be about the same size maybe a tad larger than the bandpass box now.
unloco on 07/26/2003 00:24:25
I have a Alpine SBS-1041BP. It has a SWS-1041 woofer in it. I want to put a SWS-1041D in it. The reason I am trying to change this is I am not happy with the way my system sounds. I have not been able to make it sound good enough to be satisfied with it. I have a Alpine 7893 HU Alpine SPX-177a speakers in the doors. Infinity 4X6 plates in the dash The speakers are powered by a MRV-340 amp. The sub is powered by a Rockford Fosgate 160.2 bridged. I can't seem to hit the right combo with all the Hpf,lpf, crossover here crossovers there, settings on the amp ETC... I play Heavy metal music mostly and I want it loud and clear enough to drown out the voices in my head.. Hope this helps.
compvr15s on 07/26/2003 00:57:30
what kind of vehicle do you have it in? is this a hatchback or a sealed trunk. my neighbor has that same box in this 91 mustang gt, and it is unbelievably loud. i have another friend that had it in a older sable, which has a trunk, and it was really quiet. the mustang would make you think it has 2 12"s in it. hes runnin it off a 5 channel so im sure that its only gettin 200 -250 watts. have you tried to do everything that ya could think of. like amp adjustments and hu adjustment
Swez on 07/26/2003 07:55:46
Bandpass boxes have their own oddities as they generally net high SPL and efficiency from low power amps... but they color the sound of the bass so that many really cannot use them is they demand tight bass and good lows. BP boxes are usually most efficient at frequencies above 50Hz and block out most of the low bass. This leaves one with a loud box, poor bass definition and a large box.
The sub you mentioned, is the entry level Alpine series sub, a Single 4 ohm voicecoil. This is a perfect choice for bridging the RF amp you mentioned.
The SWS 1041D is the same style sub, but has dual 4 ohms voice coils... you are going backwards here as the RF amp bridged will struggle with a 2 ohm load, if you wired it parallel. Not recommended!
Do you think you could sell the present sub and enclosure and shoot for a sealed or ported enclosure. A single 10 or 12" sub will handle the job well, if you choose adequate power handing and the proper sized enclosure. The BP box used now, is the bulk of your complaint.
Adequate amping power is available from your RF 160.2, if you bridge it, use a 4 ohm load and have a somewhat efficient sub in a well designed enclosure. A Ported design will net higher SPL in the low end bass performance.
Comments?
Swez
unloco on 07/26/2003 13:38:31
Thanks all for your help. Swez what kind of sub and ported box do you suggest? I'm not sure what SPL is but from what I read on this forum you guys know what you're talking about. I bought the Bandpass because I read somewhere that they were better for hard rock music. I also need guidance on another concern. I want to replace the front speakers with better ones. I like the placement of the speakers in the dash but I realize it hard to make a 4" speaker sound loud and clear. I was considering Boston Acoustic plates for 129.00 or possibly a high quality 4" coaxial. Any suggestions would be taken graciously. Thanks
Swez on 07/27/2003 08:58:48
Since you have a CC pick up truck, probably not a lot of space behind you for a large box. A single 10" or 12" sub (sealed) will do well for hard rock music, as there is not a lot of heavy bass in most of them. Some good brands to consider are your Alpine SWR series, Infinity Kappa, Adire Shiva Mark III, Eclipse, Rockford and many others.
The main thing here, how much $$ you wish to spend and how much power you eventually plan to use here. Either way, you need a 4 ohm sub load for this RF amp. As for the box... sealed is recommended and depending on the sub you choose, use the recommended enclosure size. Can buy or make your own enclosure as you wish.
Now, we have not discussed the sub amp you have and since it is an older RF amp... Punch 160.2 (they were better in many respects) am not sure what the power rating on that amp is and RF website does not show it either. Do you know the power specs on this amp? If not, just tell me what the fuse ratings are and I can guestimate the power that way. My best results are 40 watts RMS/ch @ 4 ohms or if bridged to mono, maybe 120-150 watts RMS Mono @ 4 ohms.
As for a sub, a 4 ohm sub, is best here when bridging the amp from a 2 channel down to 1 (MONO) for max power. Also, setting your LP filter of this amp to ~120 Hz., may help make up for the lack of midbass in dash speakers.
Now, speaking of dash speakers... the BA plates are not a bad product if you stick with dash install holes. A better way to go, would be to install larger COMPS in the door panels or use "kick panels" for 6.5" or 5/4" mids. This way, you'll get much better low midrange/midbass performance from the front stage and use the sub as your rear stage system. If you stick with dash mounted speakers, may have to HP filter them above 120 Hz as a 4" midrange driver cannot take too much low bass energy w/o breaking up. (distortion)
A very good COMP system I found off the web is the CDT CL-61a. Very good price and a solid performer in any application. Look here:
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/CDT_Audio_Components.html
Finally, the question of SPL and SQ...
SPL is a term we use for high powered systems that generate high levels of audio output... loud dude!
SQ is a term that refers to the accuracy of sound system as compared to how it was recorded in the studio.... Clean sound
In a small cabin space like an S-10, Ranger or similar, it does not take huge amping power to get both SQ and SPL performance.
OK, that's enough information to digest for now. Depends on what you want to do all the way around the system. Have more ideas to share with you as we dig into this a bit deeper.
Comments please...
Swez
Replies (6)
ILikeBass on 07/25/2003 12:53:11
Well, this depends on the woofer itself.
Only certain subwoofers will work in your bandpass box (they are not universal like most sealed) if you could give more info on what you are planning to switch to.
Make of the sub you have now, and the one you want to get.
all info you know or have about your bandpass box.
me and others on this board will try our best to see what we can make work for you. BTW, have you ever thought about using a diferent box like going ported, or sealed. maybe you could pick up another 10 alpine that you already have and put them in a sealed box, would be about the same size maybe a tad larger than the bandpass box now.
unloco on 07/26/2003 00:24:25
I have a Alpine SBS-1041BP. It has a SWS-1041 woofer in it. I want to put a SWS-1041D in it. The reason I am trying to change this is I am not happy with the way my system sounds. I have not been able to make it sound good enough to be satisfied with it. I have a Alpine 7893 HU Alpine SPX-177a speakers in the doors. Infinity 4X6 plates in the dash The speakers are powered by a MRV-340 amp. The sub is powered by a Rockford Fosgate 160.2 bridged. I can't seem to hit the right combo with all the Hpf,lpf, crossover here crossovers there, settings on the amp ETC... I play Heavy metal music mostly and I want it loud and clear enough to drown out the voices in my head.. Hope this helps.
compvr15s on 07/26/2003 00:57:30
what kind of vehicle do you have it in? is this a hatchback or a sealed trunk. my neighbor has that same box in this 91 mustang gt, and it is unbelievably loud. i have another friend that had it in a older sable, which has a trunk, and it was really quiet. the mustang would make you think it has 2 12"s in it. hes runnin it off a 5 channel so im sure that its only gettin 200 -250 watts. have you tried to do everything that ya could think of. like amp adjustments and hu adjustment
Swez on 07/26/2003 07:55:46
Bandpass boxes have their own oddities as they generally net high SPL and efficiency from low power amps... but they color the sound of the bass so that many really cannot use them is they demand tight bass and good lows. BP boxes are usually most efficient at frequencies above 50Hz and block out most of the low bass. This leaves one with a loud box, poor bass definition and a large box.
The sub you mentioned, is the entry level Alpine series sub, a Single 4 ohm voicecoil. This is a perfect choice for bridging the RF amp you mentioned.
The SWS 1041D is the same style sub, but has dual 4 ohms voice coils... you are going backwards here as the RF amp bridged will struggle with a 2 ohm load, if you wired it parallel. Not recommended!
Do you think you could sell the present sub and enclosure and shoot for a sealed or ported enclosure. A single 10 or 12" sub will handle the job well, if you choose adequate power handing and the proper sized enclosure. The BP box used now, is the bulk of your complaint.
Adequate amping power is available from your RF 160.2, if you bridge it, use a 4 ohm load and have a somewhat efficient sub in a well designed enclosure. A Ported design will net higher SPL in the low end bass performance.
Comments?
Swez
unloco on 07/26/2003 13:38:31
Thanks all for your help. Swez what kind of sub and ported box do you suggest? I'm not sure what SPL is but from what I read on this forum you guys know what you're talking about. I bought the Bandpass because I read somewhere that they were better for hard rock music. I also need guidance on another concern. I want to replace the front speakers with better ones. I like the placement of the speakers in the dash but I realize it hard to make a 4" speaker sound loud and clear. I was considering Boston Acoustic plates for 129.00 or possibly a high quality 4" coaxial. Any suggestions would be taken graciously. Thanks
Swez on 07/27/2003 08:58:48
Since you have a CC pick up truck, probably not a lot of space behind you for a large box. A single 10" or 12" sub (sealed) will do well for hard rock music, as there is not a lot of heavy bass in most of them. Some good brands to consider are your Alpine SWR series, Infinity Kappa, Adire Shiva Mark III, Eclipse, Rockford and many others.
The main thing here, how much $$ you wish to spend and how much power you eventually plan to use here. Either way, you need a 4 ohm sub load for this RF amp. As for the box... sealed is recommended and depending on the sub you choose, use the recommended enclosure size. Can buy or make your own enclosure as you wish.
Now, we have not discussed the sub amp you have and since it is an older RF amp... Punch 160.2 (they were better in many respects) am not sure what the power rating on that amp is and RF website does not show it either. Do you know the power specs on this amp? If not, just tell me what the fuse ratings are and I can guestimate the power that way. My best results are 40 watts RMS/ch @ 4 ohms or if bridged to mono, maybe 120-150 watts RMS Mono @ 4 ohms.
As for a sub, a 4 ohm sub, is best here when bridging the amp from a 2 channel down to 1 (MONO) for max power. Also, setting your LP filter of this amp to ~120 Hz., may help make up for the lack of midbass in dash speakers.
Now, speaking of dash speakers... the BA plates are not a bad product if you stick with dash install holes. A better way to go, would be to install larger COMPS in the door panels or use "kick panels" for 6.5" or 5/4" mids. This way, you'll get much better low midrange/midbass performance from the front stage and use the sub as your rear stage system. If you stick with dash mounted speakers, may have to HP filter them above 120 Hz as a 4" midrange driver cannot take too much low bass energy w/o breaking up. (distortion)
A very good COMP system I found off the web is the CDT CL-61a. Very good price and a solid performer in any application. Look here:
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/CDT_Audio_Components.html
Finally, the question of SPL and SQ...
SPL is a term we use for high powered systems that generate high levels of audio output... loud dude!
SQ is a term that refers to the accuracy of sound system as compared to how it was recorded in the studio.... Clean sound
In a small cabin space like an S-10, Ranger or similar, it does not take huge amping power to get both SQ and SPL performance.
OK, that's enough information to digest for now. Depends on what you want to do all the way around the system. Have more ideas to share with you as we dig into this a bit deeper.
Comments please...
Swez
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