OK, so I posted the other day about an old amp I had and was trying to hook up. I ended up buying a new Audiobahn amp as an end result, here is what I bought:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ABNA275HCT?ref=frog
I am using it to push a single 10" Kicker SoloBaric S10L7 sub in my 98 Honda Accord. The sub is the dual 2 ohm voice coils version, I haved it wired up in parallel, drawing 1 ohm from the amp, which is stable at 1 ohm. Now the last time I had a sub in my car was when I was in highschool, and all I had to do then was wire it up and turn the gain up on the amp, now I have several different settings, and I am confused as to where to set them at. Please help.
First is the bass boost, I have a wired remote control for this which is run up to by my drivers seat so I can have access to it, how high should I set it, or should I use it at all.
Secondly, is the subsonic filter, on or off, and if on, what frequency should I tune it to?
Thirdly, the low pass crossover, or just leave the crossover off? And how to tune it if I turn it on.
Also, do you all think I should run a thicker guage power wire to my splitter? I have another amp, and Alpine V12, running my mids and Highs, model MRV-F307. Right now I am running 8 guage, to the splitter then 8 guage to the amps from the splitter. I was thinking of running 4 guage. Any recommendations.
Thank you all in advance for any help. I thought I knew alot about car stereo, and to be honest, I could physically install almost anything, but when it comes to fine tuning for optimal sound, I am almost clueless. Thanks,
Replies (12)
ttocs on 10/25/2005 17:50:36
all of these are really up to what you want. What kind of car, music you listen too, ect will all influence how it is tuned. Turn off all the bass and treble settings, and then put in a cd you are use to. Turn the amp gain and bass boost all the way down, and the deck up to about 3/4 max volume.
Bass boost-I think this is more of a remote gain that will allow you to turn up the amp when you want to. Since you can always tune it down if it is too much, set it at 2/3 to 3/4 max volume
Subsonic filter-this protects your speaker by limiting the low end that is allowed to go to it. Since you cannot hear below 20 hz you don't need to play it. Again tune this till it sounds best to you.
Low pass x-over- ON- since you are using a 10" you can probably have it as high as 80-100 hz, but again, what you think is best.
If you are running that amp at 1 ohm you will certainly need to think about upgrading the pwr wire. That amp probably wants a 4awg alone......
welcome to the forum, stick around a while there is plenty to learn. Also check out our fact section for many often asked questions.
swez on 10/26/2005 05:13:27
Agreed!
If you have a tuned (ported) enclosure for that sub, need to find out the tuning frequency used and set your SSF to that number. It protects ported/vented subs from going ballistic below tuning freq. If you have a sealed box, set it to about 30-35 Hz.
The bass boost should be used sparingly. A +3dB boost is plenty for most systems. At higher SPL levels, the bass boost can drive most amps into clipping mode. This is hard on speakers and subs.
Swez
Nakrem02 on 10/26/2005 13:00:11
Thanks for the info, I'll try your recommendations when I get home from work today. The Bass Boost by the way has a clipping indicator built in, which turn the light around the adjustment knob to red from blue whenever it starts to clip. I have already discovered that turning it up at all barely will make the amp begin to clip, so I have it turned almost all the way down. I'll let you all know how things turn out. Thanks again!!
swez on 10/26/2005 13:22:22
Good feature... "Clipping indicator"!
Set your Bass Boost on the amp so that you can dial up your remote bass controller to 80% of max w/o the clipping light coming on too often. Yes, it may give a periodic flash at peak bass hits, but that is fine. You may need to adjust the amp gains as well, to get it dialed in perfectly.
The main thing, is not to allow the clipping light to stay on for extended periods of time, regardless of the remote control settings. That is hard on the amp and subs.
Swez
Nakrem02 on 10/26/2005 16:40:45
OK, so I have two settings for Bass Boost, one is GAIN, the other Freq. So I should turn the GAIN on the amp down, then the level on the remote up about 80%, then turn the GAIN back up till it just starts to clip? What about the Freq? Any recommendations there.
Also, I am planning on going and getting a 4 guage wire on the way home today, but how do I get that big wire into that little opening on the side of the amp? Do they make a fitting for the end of the wire that will make it go into the opening more easily? THanks again.
Oh yeah, and where can I buy that piece for the end of the wire if there is something. Thanks,
swez on 10/26/2005 17:32:40
1. Start with your bass EQ at about 40 Hz., initially. If you want more deep bass, drop to ~35 Hz. If the box is ported, need to determine the port tuning frequency. Don't boost frequencies at or below tuning of the port, it will heat up your sub.
Note: If you are not sure of the port tuning frequency, (PTF) give the port dimensions (Dia, Length) and enclosure size. We can get pretty close with that info.
2. Set the clipping indicator per instructions in your owners manual. Amp models vary on how this is done properly. Best to follow Bahn's recommended procedures.
3. When running multiple amplifiers off a #4 wire gage kit, suggest using a Distribution block with a #4 gage input and multiple #8 outs.
Streetwires: DB-448
http://streetwires.com/products/distBlock/singleInputPowerDist.cfm
Spade connectors: http://streetwires.com/products/terminals/SpadeTerminals.cfm
Swez
Nakrem02 on 10/27/2005 10:15:14
OK, I think I know what I need to do now, I just need the time to do it, maybe after work today. Yesterday, I never got a chance, too busy. Anyways, I already have a ditribution block, from an old setup, which is what I have been using, I can't remember the brand, but it splits power using a fuse on either side, and I bought a ground ditribution block the other day, and am using that currently as well. The only thing I have wrong there, is that the power being split is coming from an 8 awg wire.
Also, I am using a sealed box, this one to be specific:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5718473091&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
There are no instructions in the owner's manual either, the whole manual is rather pointless in my opinion, it tells you what all the controls and inputs are on the amp in a nice little diagram, but no info about setting levels or anything of that nature, I had to read online to find out what it meant when the remote bass boost changes colors (the clipping indicator).
Well, I guess I'll have to wait till I get a new power wire and some time before I can try all of this out, you all have been more than helpful with all this. It's good to find a site with truly intelligent people when it comes to all of this car audio stuff, and not just some moron that thinks he knows everything. Here in Louisville you pay an arm and a leg for installation, and normally it's done by some punk kid who knows enough to get by but that's it, so any specific questions or problems and the guy's useless. That's why I try to do it all myself if I can, and why I am appreciative of you guys' help. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks,
swez on 10/27/2005 12:52:36
Quote: I bought a ground ditribution block the other day, and am using that currently as well. The only thing I have wrong there, is that the power being split is coming from an 8 awg wire."
Depending on the design of the block, can you see a way to drill out the hole in the input #8 side of the block to accomodate a #4 ground wire? If that is not possible, consider using a ring connector on the #4 wire and use the set screw with a washer, to surface mount the connector to the block. It should work fine if you have adequate surface area on the block to work with.
We serve the DIY'ers here. Most of us are also DIY'ers and several Pro installers too. Glad you find this site helpful. When you finish your install, consider a donation to keep the site viable. The services and info are free to all. But the server space and maintainance cost money. Every little bit helps!
Swez COFFEE
Nakrem02 on 11/1/2005 13:51:53
OK, I have run a new power wire, 4 awg, to a ditribution block, where it is split usin two fuses, then run to both my amps using two 8 awg wires. I have a 4 awg ground wire, run to a dist block, then to the amps using two 8 awg wires. I have run though all of your recommendations as for the fine tuing, but to me it still sounds rather weak, for lack of a better term. On some songs, it's hard to tell I even have a sub in the car. It almost sounds like the sub is under powered, but I am running the recommended wattage. I have a friend who has the same sub, except he has 2 of them, but his hits extremely hard, and I think he actually has less power going to his than I do. We both have the same head unit, and he only turns his up to around 10, before his system is basically at max volume. I turn mine all the way up to 17 or so before I hit that level, and really that seems like the max level for my door and rear speakers. My sub seems to sound like I could still turn it up more. Any ideas about this. Would it hurt anything to turn the amp going to my mids and highs back so that I can tun the head unit up more, allowing the sub volume to increase. Seeing what you all thought since you're the experts here. Thanks!!
swez on 11/1/2005 17:14:57
Hummm, sounds like we have a few more items to look at.
1. What is coil impedance of your Solobaric 10W7? (2+2 or 4+4 DVC)
2. How are the coils wired to the amp? (Parallel both coils to amp is recommended)
3. This is a high current, 2 channel amp and can be run at 1 ohm loads when bridged MONO (600 Wrms @1 ohm, 300 Wrms @2 ohms)
4. What make & model HU do you have here?
5. Does your HU have a Sub output (Bass Engine) menu control system?
Gain settings: Since you have dual amps here, I am hoping your HU has a sub out RCA wire set. The amp gain settings should match the RCA voltage specs on your HU. (Ie: If the HU is rated at 2.0 volts output, set amp gain at 2.0 volts)
A little tweaking is fine. The main thing, is to keep the clipping indicator from coming on and staying on for long periods of time.
Finally, since you have a sealed enclosure, no need to use a SS filter. The box will naturally control the cone and give a smooth low frequency rolloff slope. Again, the dual coils shoul be wired parallel to each other and then to the bridged amp. Here's a diagram for you:
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=1dvcparallel1yl.jpg
Bonus: Tweaking subs and mid/high amps
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t3
Swez
Nakrem02 on 11/1/2005 17:51:17
Thanks first off for the help, I appreciate it.
The sub is a 2+2 DVC, and I have it wired in parallel
My head unit is an Alpine CDA-9827, it does have sub outputs and I am using them.
according to the manual which I just looked up online, the voltage on the sub out is 4V. The GAIN setting on the amp will go from 200 millivolts to 8 volts. So I should set this to where I estimate 4V is?
On the clipping indicator, is it OK for it to flash every time the bass hits? You say to make sure it doesn't stay on, but I am wondering how much on time is too much. The system sounds alot better when I have the bass boost turned up, but this causes the clipping indicator to flash almost every time the bass hits, even at lower levels.
Thanks again for all the help. I was on the verge of paying someone here in town just to tweak the system, so consider whatever I would have paid them a donation to the site as soon as my paycheck goes in the bank on Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out, as soon as I get home and have a chance to make the adjustments.
swez on 11/1/2005 19:22:32
Momentary blinks on the clipping indicator light are normal and acceptable. This will tell you the amp is working at full power. Just don't use so much boost that the clipping light stays on for more than a few seconds.
What are your LPF and bass boost setting on now? The LPF should be set to about 80 Hz., and the bass boost is fine at +3 dB or so. Much more than that, and the amp will clip sooner.
That HU has many complex features. You really do need a hard copy of the 40 page manual to figure out what it can do and how to do it via the menu system.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/
1. Click on Tech Center tab
2. Sign in by clicking "continue without login"
3. In the Quick search box, enter your HU model # CDA-9827... GO
4. Click on the Icon: "Download now"
Print it out for future references. (40 pages dude)
Go to section on setting Bass Control Features on page 9.
2-1: 80 Hz.
2-2: B width 2 or 3 is good
2-3: Bass level at +3 should be fine
Now, go to page 13:
Set SubW to ON (default setting)
Hope that helps,
Swez
Donations... you can donate to my favorite charity... ME! SMILE
http://www.cardomain.com/item/ABNA275HCT?ref=frog
I am using it to push a single 10" Kicker SoloBaric S10L7 sub in my 98 Honda Accord. The sub is the dual 2 ohm voice coils version, I haved it wired up in parallel, drawing 1 ohm from the amp, which is stable at 1 ohm. Now the last time I had a sub in my car was when I was in highschool, and all I had to do then was wire it up and turn the gain up on the amp, now I have several different settings, and I am confused as to where to set them at. Please help.
First is the bass boost, I have a wired remote control for this which is run up to by my drivers seat so I can have access to it, how high should I set it, or should I use it at all.
Secondly, is the subsonic filter, on or off, and if on, what frequency should I tune it to?
Thirdly, the low pass crossover, or just leave the crossover off? And how to tune it if I turn it on.
Also, do you all think I should run a thicker guage power wire to my splitter? I have another amp, and Alpine V12, running my mids and Highs, model MRV-F307. Right now I am running 8 guage, to the splitter then 8 guage to the amps from the splitter. I was thinking of running 4 guage. Any recommendations.
Thank you all in advance for any help. I thought I knew alot about car stereo, and to be honest, I could physically install almost anything, but when it comes to fine tuning for optimal sound, I am almost clueless. Thanks,
Replies (12)
ttocs on 10/25/2005 17:50:36
all of these are really up to what you want. What kind of car, music you listen too, ect will all influence how it is tuned. Turn off all the bass and treble settings, and then put in a cd you are use to. Turn the amp gain and bass boost all the way down, and the deck up to about 3/4 max volume.
Bass boost-I think this is more of a remote gain that will allow you to turn up the amp when you want to. Since you can always tune it down if it is too much, set it at 2/3 to 3/4 max volume
Subsonic filter-this protects your speaker by limiting the low end that is allowed to go to it. Since you cannot hear below 20 hz you don't need to play it. Again tune this till it sounds best to you.
Low pass x-over- ON- since you are using a 10" you can probably have it as high as 80-100 hz, but again, what you think is best.
If you are running that amp at 1 ohm you will certainly need to think about upgrading the pwr wire. That amp probably wants a 4awg alone......
welcome to the forum, stick around a while there is plenty to learn. Also check out our fact section for many often asked questions.
swez on 10/26/2005 05:13:27
Agreed!
If you have a tuned (ported) enclosure for that sub, need to find out the tuning frequency used and set your SSF to that number. It protects ported/vented subs from going ballistic below tuning freq. If you have a sealed box, set it to about 30-35 Hz.
The bass boost should be used sparingly. A +3dB boost is plenty for most systems. At higher SPL levels, the bass boost can drive most amps into clipping mode. This is hard on speakers and subs.
Swez
Nakrem02 on 10/26/2005 13:00:11
Thanks for the info, I'll try your recommendations when I get home from work today. The Bass Boost by the way has a clipping indicator built in, which turn the light around the adjustment knob to red from blue whenever it starts to clip. I have already discovered that turning it up at all barely will make the amp begin to clip, so I have it turned almost all the way down. I'll let you all know how things turn out. Thanks again!!
swez on 10/26/2005 13:22:22
Good feature... "Clipping indicator"!
Set your Bass Boost on the amp so that you can dial up your remote bass controller to 80% of max w/o the clipping light coming on too often. Yes, it may give a periodic flash at peak bass hits, but that is fine. You may need to adjust the amp gains as well, to get it dialed in perfectly.
The main thing, is not to allow the clipping light to stay on for extended periods of time, regardless of the remote control settings. That is hard on the amp and subs.
Swez
Nakrem02 on 10/26/2005 16:40:45
OK, so I have two settings for Bass Boost, one is GAIN, the other Freq. So I should turn the GAIN on the amp down, then the level on the remote up about 80%, then turn the GAIN back up till it just starts to clip? What about the Freq? Any recommendations there.
Also, I am planning on going and getting a 4 guage wire on the way home today, but how do I get that big wire into that little opening on the side of the amp? Do they make a fitting for the end of the wire that will make it go into the opening more easily? THanks again.
Oh yeah, and where can I buy that piece for the end of the wire if there is something. Thanks,
swez on 10/26/2005 17:32:40
1. Start with your bass EQ at about 40 Hz., initially. If you want more deep bass, drop to ~35 Hz. If the box is ported, need to determine the port tuning frequency. Don't boost frequencies at or below tuning of the port, it will heat up your sub.
Note: If you are not sure of the port tuning frequency, (PTF) give the port dimensions (Dia, Length) and enclosure size. We can get pretty close with that info.
2. Set the clipping indicator per instructions in your owners manual. Amp models vary on how this is done properly. Best to follow Bahn's recommended procedures.
3. When running multiple amplifiers off a #4 wire gage kit, suggest using a Distribution block with a #4 gage input and multiple #8 outs.
Streetwires: DB-448
http://streetwires.com/products/distBlock/singleInputPowerDist.cfm
Spade connectors: http://streetwires.com/products/terminals/SpadeTerminals.cfm
Swez
Nakrem02 on 10/27/2005 10:15:14
OK, I think I know what I need to do now, I just need the time to do it, maybe after work today. Yesterday, I never got a chance, too busy. Anyways, I already have a ditribution block, from an old setup, which is what I have been using, I can't remember the brand, but it splits power using a fuse on either side, and I bought a ground ditribution block the other day, and am using that currently as well. The only thing I have wrong there, is that the power being split is coming from an 8 awg wire.
Also, I am using a sealed box, this one to be specific:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5718473091&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
There are no instructions in the owner's manual either, the whole manual is rather pointless in my opinion, it tells you what all the controls and inputs are on the amp in a nice little diagram, but no info about setting levels or anything of that nature, I had to read online to find out what it meant when the remote bass boost changes colors (the clipping indicator).
Well, I guess I'll have to wait till I get a new power wire and some time before I can try all of this out, you all have been more than helpful with all this. It's good to find a site with truly intelligent people when it comes to all of this car audio stuff, and not just some moron that thinks he knows everything. Here in Louisville you pay an arm and a leg for installation, and normally it's done by some punk kid who knows enough to get by but that's it, so any specific questions or problems and the guy's useless. That's why I try to do it all myself if I can, and why I am appreciative of you guys' help. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks,
swez on 10/27/2005 12:52:36
Quote: I bought a ground ditribution block the other day, and am using that currently as well. The only thing I have wrong there, is that the power being split is coming from an 8 awg wire."
Depending on the design of the block, can you see a way to drill out the hole in the input #8 side of the block to accomodate a #4 ground wire? If that is not possible, consider using a ring connector on the #4 wire and use the set screw with a washer, to surface mount the connector to the block. It should work fine if you have adequate surface area on the block to work with.
We serve the DIY'ers here. Most of us are also DIY'ers and several Pro installers too. Glad you find this site helpful. When you finish your install, consider a donation to keep the site viable. The services and info are free to all. But the server space and maintainance cost money. Every little bit helps!
Swez COFFEE
Nakrem02 on 11/1/2005 13:51:53
OK, I have run a new power wire, 4 awg, to a ditribution block, where it is split usin two fuses, then run to both my amps using two 8 awg wires. I have a 4 awg ground wire, run to a dist block, then to the amps using two 8 awg wires. I have run though all of your recommendations as for the fine tuing, but to me it still sounds rather weak, for lack of a better term. On some songs, it's hard to tell I even have a sub in the car. It almost sounds like the sub is under powered, but I am running the recommended wattage. I have a friend who has the same sub, except he has 2 of them, but his hits extremely hard, and I think he actually has less power going to his than I do. We both have the same head unit, and he only turns his up to around 10, before his system is basically at max volume. I turn mine all the way up to 17 or so before I hit that level, and really that seems like the max level for my door and rear speakers. My sub seems to sound like I could still turn it up more. Any ideas about this. Would it hurt anything to turn the amp going to my mids and highs back so that I can tun the head unit up more, allowing the sub volume to increase. Seeing what you all thought since you're the experts here. Thanks!!
swez on 11/1/2005 17:14:57
Hummm, sounds like we have a few more items to look at.
1. What is coil impedance of your Solobaric 10W7? (2+2 or 4+4 DVC)
2. How are the coils wired to the amp? (Parallel both coils to amp is recommended)
3. This is a high current, 2 channel amp and can be run at 1 ohm loads when bridged MONO (600 Wrms @1 ohm, 300 Wrms @2 ohms)
4. What make & model HU do you have here?
5. Does your HU have a Sub output (Bass Engine) menu control system?
Gain settings: Since you have dual amps here, I am hoping your HU has a sub out RCA wire set. The amp gain settings should match the RCA voltage specs on your HU. (Ie: If the HU is rated at 2.0 volts output, set amp gain at 2.0 volts)
A little tweaking is fine. The main thing, is to keep the clipping indicator from coming on and staying on for long periods of time.
Finally, since you have a sealed enclosure, no need to use a SS filter. The box will naturally control the cone and give a smooth low frequency rolloff slope. Again, the dual coils shoul be wired parallel to each other and then to the bridged amp. Here's a diagram for you:
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?loc=img8&image=1dvcparallel1yl.jpg
Bonus: Tweaking subs and mid/high amps
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t3
Swez
Nakrem02 on 11/1/2005 17:51:17
Thanks first off for the help, I appreciate it.
The sub is a 2+2 DVC, and I have it wired in parallel
My head unit is an Alpine CDA-9827, it does have sub outputs and I am using them.
according to the manual which I just looked up online, the voltage on the sub out is 4V. The GAIN setting on the amp will go from 200 millivolts to 8 volts. So I should set this to where I estimate 4V is?
On the clipping indicator, is it OK for it to flash every time the bass hits? You say to make sure it doesn't stay on, but I am wondering how much on time is too much. The system sounds alot better when I have the bass boost turned up, but this causes the clipping indicator to flash almost every time the bass hits, even at lower levels.
Thanks again for all the help. I was on the verge of paying someone here in town just to tweak the system, so consider whatever I would have paid them a donation to the site as soon as my paycheck goes in the bank on Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out, as soon as I get home and have a chance to make the adjustments.
swez on 11/1/2005 19:22:32
Momentary blinks on the clipping indicator light are normal and acceptable. This will tell you the amp is working at full power. Just don't use so much boost that the clipping light stays on for more than a few seconds.
What are your LPF and bass boost setting on now? The LPF should be set to about 80 Hz., and the bass boost is fine at +3 dB or so. Much more than that, and the amp will clip sooner.
That HU has many complex features. You really do need a hard copy of the 40 page manual to figure out what it can do and how to do it via the menu system.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/
1. Click on Tech Center tab
2. Sign in by clicking "continue without login"
3. In the Quick search box, enter your HU model # CDA-9827... GO
4. Click on the Icon: "Download now"
Print it out for future references. (40 pages dude)
Go to section on setting Bass Control Features on page 9.
2-1: 80 Hz.
2-2: B width 2 or 3 is good
2-3: Bass level at +3 should be fine
Now, go to page 13:
Set SubW to ON (default setting)
Hope that helps,
Swez
Donations... you can donate to my favorite charity... ME! SMILE
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