can someone explain exactly what bridging is? I found some nice woofers and a nice amp but for me to pump 500watts of RMS i need to bridge the amp. The woofers im getting are stage 1 power fosgate's and the amp is fosgate power t5002 2 channel 75watts rms x 2. Is this a good combo or not? Help plz
Replies (6)
compvr15s on 10/23/2005 03:48:38
bridging your amp is just the process of taking 2 individual channels and combining them into one. this will double the power, and in most cases the ohmic resistance needs to be double of what the individual channels were. say that amp is 150 watts x 2 into a 2 ohm load, this will give 300 watts x 1 into a 4 ohm load.... but on this model mentioned its 2omh stable in bridged mode, so it will handle 500 watts at 2 omhs, if i had to guess the amp will be working very hard at this impedence bridged.. it would be a good combination for a since sub that can handle 500 watts but for that price it would be much more sensible to go with a modest class d mono channel amp... in class d amps, you get much more efficiency which means the power that is being fed into the amp is going to the sub instead of spread though the amp as heat.. class a/b amps are about 50-60% efficient at most... now class d amps are upto 85-90% efficient... that 500 watt RF 2 channel was $600 @ crutchfield(not cheapest but just for reference)... now look at class d amps at the same site, with same or more power for cheaper price
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bl73fwvxxTw/cgi-bin/prodgroup.asp?g=120&avf=N&nvpair=AG%5FNumber%5Fof%5FChannels
that RF will work fine though, just trying to save you some money upfront, you can get same or better performance from many other makers but with far less prices.... RF is a great manufacture(not as good as they used to be) but mainly paying for RF logo... any other questions just ask, we are here to gladly help you with any questions, if you have not purchased the equipment yet, please hold off for a few days, let us know what you are looking for in a system, what type of music you like, how much you want to spend.. by letting us know this we can help you set up a great system to fit your needs... dont want to buy first, think second... just lets us know your needs/wants and im sure we can save you a bundle of money, but still meet every need/want you have. good luck
swez on 10/23/2005 10:11:18
Those subs are really high priced for what you get. Unless you are getting them at cost, there are many great subs out there for well under $200/each.
Amping power... that amp is way too small to get much from even 1 Punch stage 1 sub. Each sub coil is rated at 300 Wrms.
FYI: When going with large power amps, your car electrical systems need to be able to support the huge current demands from larger sub amps. A Class D MONO amp with say... 500-600 Wrms output would make this vehicle rock pretty good. An amp of this size, will draw close to 55 amperes of current, when you crank it up. Adding a full range amp for mids/highs will add another 30-40A of current draw. That is well past most stock electricals capabilities to support. Now you are looking at ALT/BAT upgrades too. (this will set ya back about $500)
Care to rethink the plan a bit?
Swez
asplundher on 10/23/2005 11:51:13
Boy there sure seems to be a lot on the same subject: overbearing bass and overstressing the charging system. You guys think a basis for system setup should be given as a thread? You know like a basic setup for simple upgrades to mild and highly modified ones. Something that will gives clues to what each level will require and what to expect? Or maybe there is already a older thread that touches on that.
swez on 10/23/2005 19:12:14
Care to write one Ash? I don't think we have a specific post that addresses all the key points when choosing a well balanced system. If you like, we can break up the task and do it together.
Swez
ubernewbie on 10/23/2005 21:47:00
Ok so what is the best suggestion for me on a good system? Im playing all sorts of music mainly heavy metal and rap
ubernewbie on 10/23/2005 21:49:09
and can i get it in detail so that i can learn more such as how much rms, ohms, watts, and ect.... thx
Replies (6)
compvr15s on 10/23/2005 03:48:38
bridging your amp is just the process of taking 2 individual channels and combining them into one. this will double the power, and in most cases the ohmic resistance needs to be double of what the individual channels were. say that amp is 150 watts x 2 into a 2 ohm load, this will give 300 watts x 1 into a 4 ohm load.... but on this model mentioned its 2omh stable in bridged mode, so it will handle 500 watts at 2 omhs, if i had to guess the amp will be working very hard at this impedence bridged.. it would be a good combination for a since sub that can handle 500 watts but for that price it would be much more sensible to go with a modest class d mono channel amp... in class d amps, you get much more efficiency which means the power that is being fed into the amp is going to the sub instead of spread though the amp as heat.. class a/b amps are about 50-60% efficient at most... now class d amps are upto 85-90% efficient... that 500 watt RF 2 channel was $600 @ crutchfield(not cheapest but just for reference)... now look at class d amps at the same site, with same or more power for cheaper price
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-bl73fwvxxTw/cgi-bin/prodgroup.asp?g=120&avf=N&nvpair=AG%5FNumber%5Fof%5FChannels
that RF will work fine though, just trying to save you some money upfront, you can get same or better performance from many other makers but with far less prices.... RF is a great manufacture(not as good as they used to be) but mainly paying for RF logo... any other questions just ask, we are here to gladly help you with any questions, if you have not purchased the equipment yet, please hold off for a few days, let us know what you are looking for in a system, what type of music you like, how much you want to spend.. by letting us know this we can help you set up a great system to fit your needs... dont want to buy first, think second... just lets us know your needs/wants and im sure we can save you a bundle of money, but still meet every need/want you have. good luck
swez on 10/23/2005 10:11:18
Those subs are really high priced for what you get. Unless you are getting them at cost, there are many great subs out there for well under $200/each.
Amping power... that amp is way too small to get much from even 1 Punch stage 1 sub. Each sub coil is rated at 300 Wrms.
FYI: When going with large power amps, your car electrical systems need to be able to support the huge current demands from larger sub amps. A Class D MONO amp with say... 500-600 Wrms output would make this vehicle rock pretty good. An amp of this size, will draw close to 55 amperes of current, when you crank it up. Adding a full range amp for mids/highs will add another 30-40A of current draw. That is well past most stock electricals capabilities to support. Now you are looking at ALT/BAT upgrades too. (this will set ya back about $500)
Care to rethink the plan a bit?
Swez
asplundher on 10/23/2005 11:51:13
Boy there sure seems to be a lot on the same subject: overbearing bass and overstressing the charging system. You guys think a basis for system setup should be given as a thread? You know like a basic setup for simple upgrades to mild and highly modified ones. Something that will gives clues to what each level will require and what to expect? Or maybe there is already a older thread that touches on that.
swez on 10/23/2005 19:12:14
Care to write one Ash? I don't think we have a specific post that addresses all the key points when choosing a well balanced system. If you like, we can break up the task and do it together.
Swez
ubernewbie on 10/23/2005 21:47:00
Ok so what is the best suggestion for me on a good system? Im playing all sorts of music mainly heavy metal and rap
ubernewbie on 10/23/2005 21:49:09
and can i get it in detail so that i can learn more such as how much rms, ohms, watts, and ect.... thx
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