My friend has a 99 mercury cougar with a factory alarm. The alarm doesnt work correctly and goes off at random times and actually runs the battery down so its dead most of the time. How do I remove/disable the alarm?
Replies (19)
ttocs on 10/22/2005 16:02:33
Check the manual, pull the fuse for the "security" or "alarm". There is a chance that will not work though as alot of times the dealer puts an alarm on the car, but it can be aftermarket equipment. often when this is the case they do a quick and cheap job. You can easily locate it by looking up the drivers dash.
UKinstaller on 10/23/2005 00:36:22
there is a disarm wire in the drivers side kickpanel. it is black with a white stripe. you'll need a multimeter to test for it. to test, meter the wire with the key in the drivers door turned towards the unlock position. it is a negative wire, so the wire will sit at 12 volts when sitting regular, and drop to zero volts (ground) when you turn the key in the door.
once you find the wire, tie it to a bare metal ground and it will be permanently disarmed. be careful!
-UK
blinkoff on 11/9/2005 00:15:56
Hi, I tried to find the black wire with a white stripe. I found one, but it seemed to be part of a cluster of wires with a plug on the end that is not plugged into anything. It does not carry any current while regular nor when the key is turned. Any suggestions?
ttocs on 11/9/2005 15:49:30
check it to see if it is going to ground when the key is turned.
blinkoff on 11/9/2005 20:37:53
It has no voltage to begin with, how would I check to see if it goes to ground? Also I tried the fuse as well. It is on the same fuse as the locking mechanisms so I cannot just take the fuse out.
swez on 11/10/2005 09:29:53
If it is a ground, there will be no voltage readings from this wire to a ground point in the car.
You can test to see if it is a ground by using an ohmeter. One probe is connected to that wire. The other probe is to a known good ground. If you get a number that is close to "Zero" ohms, it is a ground. If the meter reads "Infinite resistance", you have an open circuit that is not a true ground source.
FYI: When probing unknown wires, always start with the DC voltage meter on the 15-20 volt scale. If there is power on that wire to ground, it's an active circuit to something. If no readings are detected, then it is safe to use the ohmeter setting as a "continuity tester". If we test a live wire with the ohmeter selected, we run the risk of blowing the protection fuse in the meter or damaging the resistor networks inside the ohmeter circuits.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/10/2005 13:48:26
Ok so let me get this straight. It doesnt matter if it doesnt have 12 volts to begin with, it only matters if it goes from "infinite resistance" to close to zero when testing it?
I only have a test light right now down here at school, my multimeter is at home :( So before I go out and buy another one im just making sure that my thinking is correct.
Thanks for your detailed replys.
swez on 11/10/2005 16:46:20
When searching for grounds, a "continuity" tester is a good tool to use. That can be an ohmeter or a probe with a battery, light, probe and alligator clipprd wire. When you connect the probe to clip, the lamp will light as we now have a comlpeted circuit.
When you probe a from one ground point to another, the continuity tester will light up when 2 grounds are found. A meter will react similarly. The ohmeter will read very low ohms on the same curcuit under test.
When testing circuits under power, use the DC voltmeter function or a 12 volt test lamp. If the lamp lights, you have a voltage present. If the meter deflects, same thing. There is a voltage present between those 2 points. A meter will tell you the voltage value. A test light cannot measure the voltage. It will illuminate even if the voltage potential is only a few volts. (light will be very dim)
This may help you:
http://www.bcae1.com/testlite.htm
Swez
ttocs on 11/10/2005 20:33:44
you may be able to use a test light still depending on what kind it is. If you have the kind that you normally just gound(with an alagator clip), then simply plug the clip to a +12v constant. Test this by touching the test light to a grounded surface and see if it lights up.
I am just having you test this to try. I have books that are supposed to tell me what wires are what, but it is just not always or even normally that simple. ANY time you probe a wire to test it you need to check for power with the key on and off, as well as test for ground. Alot of alarm dis-arm wires use a negative trigger(goes from +12v to ground to dis-arm) since it does not require running a power wire to the lock.
swez on 11/11/2005 06:41:10
Good point ttocs! The 12 volt probe can be used as you mentioned. If you use the clip end of the probe light, attached to a known 12 volt power source, (IGN/ACC port in fuse panel) probing that wire will tell if it is ground by illuminating. If the probe does not light, that wire is not a true ground.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/15/2005 14:59:33
Ok, i tested the wire, and it does not go to ground. I made sure that I was testing correctly by probing a known ground and the light did light up. So the black wire with the white stripe is not the disarm wire. What to do now?
swez on 11/15/2005 21:22:54
UK mentioned the steps already. Here's what he said:
Quote: "there is a disarm wire in the drivers side kickpanel. it is black with a white stripe. you'll need a multimeter to test for it. to test, meter the wire with the key in the drivers door turned towards the unlock position. it is a negative wire, so the wire will sit at 12 volts (lamp will light) when sitting regular, and drop to zero volts (ground) when you turn the key in the door. (lamp should go out)
once you find the wire, tie it to a bare metal ground and it will be permanently disarmed. be careful! "
cplkittle on 11/15/2005 22:45:20
If you are still having trouble, you can have a local stereo shop install a keyless entry module only ($85-$125 installed) They will tie in to the fatory alarm and disarm it on unlock.
I would also check for a faulty hood pin, or door pins. Finding the source of the porblem (a false trigger) will solve more than just the alarm troubles. If a door pin is sticking, the interior light will come on as well, and also cause the battery to run down.
blinkoff on 11/16/2005 00:00:01
swez: There are well over 50 wires under there...and since its not my car, i dont have the patience to test them all :) so basically I am curious if there was another way to disable it other than that wire.
Also, the false trigger is the problem. I think he said his battery always dies when the alarm was going off. So he never locks his doors, therefore not arming the alarm, but the interior light doesnt come on, so maybe its not a door trigger. Im pretty sure there is an intermittent connection somewhere because it seems to set itself off just for a second whenever i shake the car from the inside, but not like a shock sensor (the alarm honks the horn and flashes the lights, but only for a second) So maybe finding the false trigger should be what im after.
swez on 11/16/2005 08:58:29
Sounds like you need a install/troubleshooting manual on that model alarm system. Have you tried calling the helps desk techs that make that alarm system? Am sure they have seen this one before and can lead you through a "diagnostics tree" test plan to identify the source of this problem.
The other thought, if it was installed by a shop, take that sucker back and have them look at it. If the owner installed it themselves (or a buddy did the job) something was miswired or a component switch has failed.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/16/2005 11:38:23
He bought it from a used car dealer, without knowing it was on it. So he has no clue on the model, he just knows it doesnt work right :) the dealership said they could disable it for him for 200 dollars, so he doesnt want to pay that if not necessary.
swez on 11/16/2005 12:16:02
Need to find the main control module and get brand and model number of this unit. With that info, you might be able to get an install/troubleshooting manual off the net and review the context.
These are generally well hidden under the dash, below the steering wheel bolster panels. Can be very tight in there. Suggest you explore things with the BAT disconnected.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/16/2005 15:15:52
Alright thanks I will try this!
I really appreciate your help!!!
swez on 11/16/2005 16:18:23
Have a look at this site. It may give you enough background information to understand basic features in the typical car alarm system.
http://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/page2.asp
Swez
Replies (19)
ttocs on 10/22/2005 16:02:33
Check the manual, pull the fuse for the "security" or "alarm". There is a chance that will not work though as alot of times the dealer puts an alarm on the car, but it can be aftermarket equipment. often when this is the case they do a quick and cheap job. You can easily locate it by looking up the drivers dash.
UKinstaller on 10/23/2005 00:36:22
there is a disarm wire in the drivers side kickpanel. it is black with a white stripe. you'll need a multimeter to test for it. to test, meter the wire with the key in the drivers door turned towards the unlock position. it is a negative wire, so the wire will sit at 12 volts when sitting regular, and drop to zero volts (ground) when you turn the key in the door.
once you find the wire, tie it to a bare metal ground and it will be permanently disarmed. be careful!
-UK
blinkoff on 11/9/2005 00:15:56
Hi, I tried to find the black wire with a white stripe. I found one, but it seemed to be part of a cluster of wires with a plug on the end that is not plugged into anything. It does not carry any current while regular nor when the key is turned. Any suggestions?
ttocs on 11/9/2005 15:49:30
check it to see if it is going to ground when the key is turned.
blinkoff on 11/9/2005 20:37:53
It has no voltage to begin with, how would I check to see if it goes to ground? Also I tried the fuse as well. It is on the same fuse as the locking mechanisms so I cannot just take the fuse out.
swez on 11/10/2005 09:29:53
If it is a ground, there will be no voltage readings from this wire to a ground point in the car.
You can test to see if it is a ground by using an ohmeter. One probe is connected to that wire. The other probe is to a known good ground. If you get a number that is close to "Zero" ohms, it is a ground. If the meter reads "Infinite resistance", you have an open circuit that is not a true ground source.
FYI: When probing unknown wires, always start with the DC voltage meter on the 15-20 volt scale. If there is power on that wire to ground, it's an active circuit to something. If no readings are detected, then it is safe to use the ohmeter setting as a "continuity tester". If we test a live wire with the ohmeter selected, we run the risk of blowing the protection fuse in the meter or damaging the resistor networks inside the ohmeter circuits.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/10/2005 13:48:26
Ok so let me get this straight. It doesnt matter if it doesnt have 12 volts to begin with, it only matters if it goes from "infinite resistance" to close to zero when testing it?
I only have a test light right now down here at school, my multimeter is at home :( So before I go out and buy another one im just making sure that my thinking is correct.
Thanks for your detailed replys.
swez on 11/10/2005 16:46:20
When searching for grounds, a "continuity" tester is a good tool to use. That can be an ohmeter or a probe with a battery, light, probe and alligator clipprd wire. When you connect the probe to clip, the lamp will light as we now have a comlpeted circuit.
When you probe a from one ground point to another, the continuity tester will light up when 2 grounds are found. A meter will react similarly. The ohmeter will read very low ohms on the same curcuit under test.
When testing circuits under power, use the DC voltmeter function or a 12 volt test lamp. If the lamp lights, you have a voltage present. If the meter deflects, same thing. There is a voltage present between those 2 points. A meter will tell you the voltage value. A test light cannot measure the voltage. It will illuminate even if the voltage potential is only a few volts. (light will be very dim)
This may help you:
http://www.bcae1.com/testlite.htm
Swez
ttocs on 11/10/2005 20:33:44
you may be able to use a test light still depending on what kind it is. If you have the kind that you normally just gound(with an alagator clip), then simply plug the clip to a +12v constant. Test this by touching the test light to a grounded surface and see if it lights up.
I am just having you test this to try. I have books that are supposed to tell me what wires are what, but it is just not always or even normally that simple. ANY time you probe a wire to test it you need to check for power with the key on and off, as well as test for ground. Alot of alarm dis-arm wires use a negative trigger(goes from +12v to ground to dis-arm) since it does not require running a power wire to the lock.
swez on 11/11/2005 06:41:10
Good point ttocs! The 12 volt probe can be used as you mentioned. If you use the clip end of the probe light, attached to a known 12 volt power source, (IGN/ACC port in fuse panel) probing that wire will tell if it is ground by illuminating. If the probe does not light, that wire is not a true ground.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/15/2005 14:59:33
Ok, i tested the wire, and it does not go to ground. I made sure that I was testing correctly by probing a known ground and the light did light up. So the black wire with the white stripe is not the disarm wire. What to do now?
swez on 11/15/2005 21:22:54
UK mentioned the steps already. Here's what he said:
Quote: "there is a disarm wire in the drivers side kickpanel. it is black with a white stripe. you'll need a multimeter to test for it. to test, meter the wire with the key in the drivers door turned towards the unlock position. it is a negative wire, so the wire will sit at 12 volts (lamp will light) when sitting regular, and drop to zero volts (ground) when you turn the key in the door. (lamp should go out)
once you find the wire, tie it to a bare metal ground and it will be permanently disarmed. be careful! "
cplkittle on 11/15/2005 22:45:20
If you are still having trouble, you can have a local stereo shop install a keyless entry module only ($85-$125 installed) They will tie in to the fatory alarm and disarm it on unlock.
I would also check for a faulty hood pin, or door pins. Finding the source of the porblem (a false trigger) will solve more than just the alarm troubles. If a door pin is sticking, the interior light will come on as well, and also cause the battery to run down.
blinkoff on 11/16/2005 00:00:01
swez: There are well over 50 wires under there...and since its not my car, i dont have the patience to test them all :) so basically I am curious if there was another way to disable it other than that wire.
Also, the false trigger is the problem. I think he said his battery always dies when the alarm was going off. So he never locks his doors, therefore not arming the alarm, but the interior light doesnt come on, so maybe its not a door trigger. Im pretty sure there is an intermittent connection somewhere because it seems to set itself off just for a second whenever i shake the car from the inside, but not like a shock sensor (the alarm honks the horn and flashes the lights, but only for a second) So maybe finding the false trigger should be what im after.
swez on 11/16/2005 08:58:29
Sounds like you need a install/troubleshooting manual on that model alarm system. Have you tried calling the helps desk techs that make that alarm system? Am sure they have seen this one before and can lead you through a "diagnostics tree" test plan to identify the source of this problem.
The other thought, if it was installed by a shop, take that sucker back and have them look at it. If the owner installed it themselves (or a buddy did the job) something was miswired or a component switch has failed.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/16/2005 11:38:23
He bought it from a used car dealer, without knowing it was on it. So he has no clue on the model, he just knows it doesnt work right :) the dealership said they could disable it for him for 200 dollars, so he doesnt want to pay that if not necessary.
swez on 11/16/2005 12:16:02
Need to find the main control module and get brand and model number of this unit. With that info, you might be able to get an install/troubleshooting manual off the net and review the context.
These are generally well hidden under the dash, below the steering wheel bolster panels. Can be very tight in there. Suggest you explore things with the BAT disconnected.
Swez
blinkoff on 11/16/2005 15:15:52
Alright thanks I will try this!
I really appreciate your help!!!
swez on 11/16/2005 16:18:23
Have a look at this site. It may give you enough background information to understand basic features in the typical car alarm system.
http://www.the12volt.com/carsecurity/page2.asp
Swez
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