Last year, I was given a 1986 honda accord, I replaced the stock speakers right away with some cheap sony xplod's from walmart, everything went fine. A year later I work for Fry's electronics, and get about a 50% discount on speakers, so I decided to upgrade them.
I purchased the infinity kappa 52.7's thinking they were coaxial,
but not realizing they were component until i got home.
Simple question, what is the diff between coaxial and component?
is the difference simply teh in line crossover filter? Can you use component in a normal system?
Can I simply cutoff the easy slide stock connectors and solder the two wires going into the crossover to the wires?
Replies (10)
lessismorespl on 09/30/2005 18:50:42
You actually came out w/ a nice upgrade, I have found over time even the cheaper components sound better than factory and most avg. mid grade coaxials.
I do not see a problem w/ soldering the factory wires to the input wires on the xover. Are you using an aftermarket headunit or factory? I highly suggest if you still have a factory HU to upgrade to a decent aftermarket one, it will make a big improvement on how these speakers sound.
less
ttocs on 10/1/2005 01:51:57
the only thing you need to watch for on the x-over, is to keep it out of the way of moving parts(window), and to keep it dry. Alot of people will just throw them on the bottom of the door, but they do not realize how much a door can leak, and how a little bit of water can ruin a x-over...
zend on 10/1/2005 04:32:29
well i have a decent clarion db345mp, about a year old.......17 watts rms so it should be okay. do i really need to bother with heat shrink tubing and all that crap or should i just solder and tape it.
swez on 10/1/2005 05:39:59
Tape in a door is usually not the best choice as tape tends to get soft and unravel in hot weather and not stick well tin cold weather. Shrink tubing over the solder joints are the BEST way. Another option is to use butt style crimp connectors.
Also, many guys will install the xovers under the dash panels and run dual wires through the door conduit, to their respective components. It's a bit more challenging on the driver side door as there may be many wires in the conduit already. (power locks, windows, mirrors, etc.) The passenger side is usually easier to start on as there are fewer wires in that conduit and easier to remove the door panels too.
Hope that helps,
Swez
lessismorespl on 10/1/2005 09:17:13
I agree, I never install the xovers in the door, on most makes/models the doors get condensation, also, when you wash the vehicle water can get in the door panels. I usually place the xovers under the dash and run new wires to speakers. I just installed a set CDT Audio comps and placed the xovers in the panels under my dash and have had no problems of them getting in the way and they fit perfect. Not sure of the size of Infinity xovers, but CDT makes some pretty big xovers, much like JL Audio's.
Shrink tubing works best even when you solder, but if you buy some good tape, it will work well also. I try to stay away from the 2 for $1 electrical tape. They make professional grade electrical tape that is very durable and stands up to heat/cold. It cost a little more, but IMO it is well worth it. You can find in the electrical dept's of Lowes, Home Depot, and even some of your bigger hardware chains have it. Just look for Professional Grade or Industrial Grade on the package.
I believe that HU will drive these comps. just fine. They have a high efficiency rating, so they will sound fine w/ as little as 15 wRMS.
Less
zend on 10/1/2005 20:45:30
Well im about to solder the crossovers in, got my heatshrink and all.
If i was to get a new HU, perhaps one with at least 22 watts rms, I dont want to go all out and get subs or an amp, what would you reccomend? I would like something with mp3 playback since
thats really all i use.
swez on 10/2/2005 12:07:13
There will be minimal SPL differences between a HU that delivers say 17 Wrms x 4 VS one that nets 22. If you really want to bring up the SPL and clarity, an outboard amp is the way to go.
Also, complex passive crossovers have what is called "insertion losses" . That means they consume power that would normally go right to the speakers. (if a passive filter were not used) The typical loss is about 1.5dB in a well designed crossover. Meaning, if your HU provides say 20 watts RMS output, about 5 watts of power will be lost to the crossover. Now, your speakers are actually getting about 15 Wrms and the crossover eats the other 5 watts.
Do you see the connection here?
Swez
lessismorespl on 10/2/2005 18:08:47
That is true. The internal amps on HU's are typically not great amps, if they were there would be no reason to use external amps. An external amp of say 30x2 would actually putout more power and be much cleaner. They make HU's that are close to 30 wRMS now, I believe some of the higher end MXE and Alpine are 27 or 28 wRMS. But they can never do what an external can. My MXE is rated @ 28 wRMS 60 max. but I still use a 4 channel amp b/c the sound is much cleaner and more defined w/ the extrernal amp. I would keep your present HU and spend the money on a small 2 channel amp. You would actually be saving yourself some money b/c you can buy a decent 50x2 amp for as little as $75 and I know the HU will run you over $200.
If you would like some suggestions on amps or HU's I would be glad to give you some quality suggestions w/in your price ranges. Remember, if you go w/ an external amp, you will need a small amp kit and a set of RCA cables.
less
zend on 10/2/2005 20:54:46
Well, got my front door speakers installed, they have amazing clarity, however like you pointed out, I think I could use a small amp to boost them up. I get about 50% off of amps and also installtion fees as well, I dont think I would want to bother with running the cables to the amp.
Two questions:
1) I am still giong to upgrade my 6.5" speakers in the rear, and I have two choices: INFINITY KAPPA 63.7i or the Polk MOMO MMC650 ones, I have heard it said that generally the polk puts out more bass and the infinity more clarity, I listen to rock/metal only so infinity sounds good. What do you think?
2) What amp would you reccomend for running the 4 speakers?
keep in mind I'm getting nice internal speakers because I dont want
to mess with the investment and risk of 2 10" subs getting stolen.
zend on 10/2/2005 21:16:39
I forgot to add that the speakers rms rating is 55 watts for the front
and about 75 for the rear, they are able to run at 2 ohms, so what would i need to do to get the most out of them?
I purchased the infinity kappa 52.7's thinking they were coaxial,
but not realizing they were component until i got home.
Simple question, what is the diff between coaxial and component?
is the difference simply teh in line crossover filter? Can you use component in a normal system?
Can I simply cutoff the easy slide stock connectors and solder the two wires going into the crossover to the wires?
Replies (10)
lessismorespl on 09/30/2005 18:50:42
You actually came out w/ a nice upgrade, I have found over time even the cheaper components sound better than factory and most avg. mid grade coaxials.
I do not see a problem w/ soldering the factory wires to the input wires on the xover. Are you using an aftermarket headunit or factory? I highly suggest if you still have a factory HU to upgrade to a decent aftermarket one, it will make a big improvement on how these speakers sound.
less
ttocs on 10/1/2005 01:51:57
the only thing you need to watch for on the x-over, is to keep it out of the way of moving parts(window), and to keep it dry. Alot of people will just throw them on the bottom of the door, but they do not realize how much a door can leak, and how a little bit of water can ruin a x-over...
zend on 10/1/2005 04:32:29
well i have a decent clarion db345mp, about a year old.......17 watts rms so it should be okay. do i really need to bother with heat shrink tubing and all that crap or should i just solder and tape it.
swez on 10/1/2005 05:39:59
Tape in a door is usually not the best choice as tape tends to get soft and unravel in hot weather and not stick well tin cold weather. Shrink tubing over the solder joints are the BEST way. Another option is to use butt style crimp connectors.
Also, many guys will install the xovers under the dash panels and run dual wires through the door conduit, to their respective components. It's a bit more challenging on the driver side door as there may be many wires in the conduit already. (power locks, windows, mirrors, etc.) The passenger side is usually easier to start on as there are fewer wires in that conduit and easier to remove the door panels too.
Hope that helps,
Swez
lessismorespl on 10/1/2005 09:17:13
I agree, I never install the xovers in the door, on most makes/models the doors get condensation, also, when you wash the vehicle water can get in the door panels. I usually place the xovers under the dash and run new wires to speakers. I just installed a set CDT Audio comps and placed the xovers in the panels under my dash and have had no problems of them getting in the way and they fit perfect. Not sure of the size of Infinity xovers, but CDT makes some pretty big xovers, much like JL Audio's.
Shrink tubing works best even when you solder, but if you buy some good tape, it will work well also. I try to stay away from the 2 for $1 electrical tape. They make professional grade electrical tape that is very durable and stands up to heat/cold. It cost a little more, but IMO it is well worth it. You can find in the electrical dept's of Lowes, Home Depot, and even some of your bigger hardware chains have it. Just look for Professional Grade or Industrial Grade on the package.
I believe that HU will drive these comps. just fine. They have a high efficiency rating, so they will sound fine w/ as little as 15 wRMS.
Less
zend on 10/1/2005 20:45:30
Well im about to solder the crossovers in, got my heatshrink and all.
If i was to get a new HU, perhaps one with at least 22 watts rms, I dont want to go all out and get subs or an amp, what would you reccomend? I would like something with mp3 playback since
thats really all i use.
swez on 10/2/2005 12:07:13
There will be minimal SPL differences between a HU that delivers say 17 Wrms x 4 VS one that nets 22. If you really want to bring up the SPL and clarity, an outboard amp is the way to go.
Also, complex passive crossovers have what is called "insertion losses" . That means they consume power that would normally go right to the speakers. (if a passive filter were not used) The typical loss is about 1.5dB in a well designed crossover. Meaning, if your HU provides say 20 watts RMS output, about 5 watts of power will be lost to the crossover. Now, your speakers are actually getting about 15 Wrms and the crossover eats the other 5 watts.
Do you see the connection here?
Swez
lessismorespl on 10/2/2005 18:08:47
That is true. The internal amps on HU's are typically not great amps, if they were there would be no reason to use external amps. An external amp of say 30x2 would actually putout more power and be much cleaner. They make HU's that are close to 30 wRMS now, I believe some of the higher end MXE and Alpine are 27 or 28 wRMS. But they can never do what an external can. My MXE is rated @ 28 wRMS 60 max. but I still use a 4 channel amp b/c the sound is much cleaner and more defined w/ the extrernal amp. I would keep your present HU and spend the money on a small 2 channel amp. You would actually be saving yourself some money b/c you can buy a decent 50x2 amp for as little as $75 and I know the HU will run you over $200.
If you would like some suggestions on amps or HU's I would be glad to give you some quality suggestions w/in your price ranges. Remember, if you go w/ an external amp, you will need a small amp kit and a set of RCA cables.
less
zend on 10/2/2005 20:54:46
Well, got my front door speakers installed, they have amazing clarity, however like you pointed out, I think I could use a small amp to boost them up. I get about 50% off of amps and also installtion fees as well, I dont think I would want to bother with running the cables to the amp.
Two questions:
1) I am still giong to upgrade my 6.5" speakers in the rear, and I have two choices: INFINITY KAPPA 63.7i or the Polk MOMO MMC650 ones, I have heard it said that generally the polk puts out more bass and the infinity more clarity, I listen to rock/metal only so infinity sounds good. What do you think?
2) What amp would you reccomend for running the 4 speakers?
keep in mind I'm getting nice internal speakers because I dont want
to mess with the investment and risk of 2 10" subs getting stolen.
zend on 10/2/2005 21:16:39
I forgot to add that the speakers rms rating is 55 watts for the front
and about 75 for the rear, they are able to run at 2 ohms, so what would i need to do to get the most out of them?
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