Im wanting to swap out my 10" JBL sub for a alpine.And in a dual voice coil R series sub.And after much reading Im pretty much set on the 10" due to both reviews stating the unmatched performance of one of these great subs.Plus Im looking for a sub that sounds great as in a fuller range and somewhat more live like and so far all the specs along in all Ive read sends home the alpine R series and in aluminum or the steel basket.What Im not real clear in is this.One of my main goals is to get a real hard hitting bass! The kind I used to feel way back before any punch and the real bad bass that only came from the first fosgate amps! Now Im not at all impressed with them.Ive found that since those days of no protective circuitry.That most amps are all of the same bassic types.That is as long as you watch the specs period then its just more of what is good for you?So since those banging through your seats back and into yours! Its been a rather boomy sick kinda thing.Not bad sounds overal but just not that hard driving seprate speaker and almost like any of your three piece bands of big sounds.You had the same with only tweeters ,mids,and woofers as thats all we knew them as?Now days Im told those were still subs? Im not so sure about that at least as not at all like most of what I hear today! And thats my main b****h! However Im pretty certain the alpines my answer and in a sealed enclosure along with some good fill etc.And the proper RMS rating to sub needs.So heres my lacking of knowledge in only this area.Which of the two subs do you know to be the hardest hitter! The 2 ohm or 4 ohm? Im aware the 2 ohm has less resistance there fore should play louder.But not nessesarly harder? Plus I only have room for one sub and it really wont matter if its a 10 or 12 inch.However Im also wanting a blend of sorts and why I choose the 5.2 kappas and the 6.5 vegas.I must say Im much more impressed with the cerwins any day of the week over the infinitys.But then you have to cut them alittle slack since there a wee bit smaller.As well they do play very clean.And so my thoughts are to stick with one 10 inch but get the bad boy of the crowd! And the SWR-1021D or 1041D will be my choices.AS for the amp? Any suggestions? Obviously Im wanting like most all you can get for as cheap as possable.Hey thats not to much to ask,is it.And if anyone has any knowledge of where these are on sale at that would be most helpful and appreciated as well.As to date all my car audio needs had been filled at car stereo online! There prices are hard to beat as well the great selection.But since hooked on tronics has taken over in this sub deal only and even amps! Now if anyone has any advise over and beyond the 4 to 2 ohm war as in a particular way and or material used in the subs enclosure? Im all ears! As Im going to try out a scary project.As my pressent enclosure looks and sounds great.But it weighs half as much as my toyota truck and that an older built 4wheeler extracab no less! So since its been under major construction four years straight and still going.Weight is where its not at! So aluminum enlcosures are what Im about to set forth upon.Only Ive got a solid plan that should sound great.Plus match the rest of the interior alot better and with alittle room to spare! Thanks much
Replies (4)
Rockrig on 09/29/2005 07:24:42
Most is in my profile.But not this.The entire interior from floor boards to the doors have all been sound proofed with the exception of the roof! Kinda hard to do that one clean.Plus Im running dual optimas one red high cranking amps and one yellow top deep cycle.And Id have to say in the three fuller going on four years old that they are.And for not being charged often as the trucks been in solitary confinment as well I.The only chargings have been when I connect the battery charger to them and one at a particular time as you want to watch how you charge ether but from what Ive read in particularly the deep cycle.Or you can shorten its life span.However of the two the red is now showing some signs of fitigue.But both have been the most outstanding batterys of all Id owned and Id owned ALOT of various batterys in my life time.Do to running flatbottom v-drive boats for one that are brutal on batterys.Do to there ride in anything but smooth water and then made worse by bigger blocked and built HP rating to weight ratios.Then Id always been a cycle nut and harleys are by far as bad as the flatbottoms with shaking any batterys braincells loose! And so Ive since swapped over to the glass matt batterys in the bikes as for the old howard blast from the past! Theres a issue in space and so the old acid and worse forklift sized long battleship length is what has to be used! Plus as if the boat really needs more weight in its transum area!However once again the optimas have come back from what would had been certain death in any acid wet cell type battery.As those old nasty things cant handle anything below 12.25 volts and there toast! Not to mention two and a half years and there boat anchor material.Mean while there also a nasty damned mess! As the fumes create a mess on your posts as well Id had one even BLOW up and take about an eye opener! Like a shotgun going off under your hood! As the gases are explosive! While others and in both car and then my Roadking when we did afew flips together! Battery acid got all over the chrome that wasnt damaged in the crash was by acid! As well it ate holes clean through my nice leather vest that was cut off my then stabilized body.So theres awhole bunch in all better reasons why not to ever use one of those realics!Also if theres any interest in the particulars of my truck please feel free to e-mail me @ Toy4therock@yahoo.com as the enclosures are to be two pyramids for both rear corners and with baffles and fans plus push button wire terminals then bolted into the floor and back of the cab.Using all aluminum poprivets and stainless allens or machine screws in the hex head configuration.AS the trucks been built with about 400.00 just in all stainless fasteners to date.From bumper to interior and under the hood and through out the engine.Any place a grade eight bolt isnt required its stainless even the sheetmetal screws and ether in satin or I polish them out.As the custom tube and aluminum bed is also full of stainless as will be the on board gas powerd air compressor which can easily handle air tools! This beast is being built in all the very best.And when completed hopefully will be in petersons offroad or another publication.Theres a very good reason its been named Rockrig! As it will deliver it in any manner youd care for! Including dual engines for a days swap out in what ever your needs will require?One for offroad and lowend torque with the aid of super low transfercase gearing and a big billet steel presision ground flywheel sending its brute torque to the rear spooled when locked rear AIR locker and the detroit tru-trac front posi traction.Or when youd care to ether hit the sand dunes of this states by yuma or rocket to the pines of flag.Then the 250 Hp turbo charged four banged out bigger ponys and on pump fuel only.As then due to the garret turbo and the SDS injection and ignition system .You simply mix about 15% menthenal to primo and kick up the boost and map settings and now your looking at 300hp!! Which is no bother to this drive train! Like I said its name fits all bills of later gator! And for those who like to ROCK with your help and info it will then easily handle anything your ear drums can withstand. So its easy to assume its not any rig for the weak heartedlike all I like its fast and its LOUD.But at least there all really clean! Thanks abunch Id rather be pokin in the front than wrenchin from the rear! But whatever the case maybe I will be wired for sound!
swez on 09/29/2005 10:13:57
Egads!!!! Cannot decode half of what was posted dude. I just skimmed the main points and ignored the rest.
Care to summarize your key points in "short, well defined" paragraphs here friend? That will help our techs and installers to guide you through the steps to a top notch system. (run on topics are very hard to read)
Alpine Type R subs are great in the right enclosure design and adequate amping power. If you like tight, accurate bass with solid punch and good low bass, a sealed box is right for that preference.
If one prefers lots of deep bass, then ported/vented boxes, (tuned for optimal lows) will get the job done.
Amping a single 10 or 12" sub is also critical. Enough RMS power to match the sub and remain clean on transient peaks is key. Class D amps do a very good job of providing efficient power transfer to the sub(s). Since you are planning for a single sub, use a 4+4 DVC coil pack sub. This nets a 2 ohm load and most Class D amps are fine with that.
Going with a 2+2 DVC nets a 1 or 4 ohm load. Most Class D amps are not able to do 1 ohm loads w/o lots of extra heat. They generally cost more for that feature too. In short, go with a 4+4 DVC.
Budget? How much are you willing to pay for a 500 Wrms amp to power your sub?
Swez (aka Old Man Audio) Yeah, have been at this audio stuff a long time. Understand your point on old Punch amps... they rocked!
PS Welcome to CK! COFFEE
lessismorespl on 09/29/2005 21:18:10
WOW! The Type R subs are excellent subs. If I read write, before I went cross eyed, you are seeking SQ, well the Type R will definately give you excellent SQ.
less
Rockrig on 09/29/2005 23:02:50
Replies (4)
Rockrig on 09/29/2005 07:24:42
Most is in my profile.But not this.The entire interior from floor boards to the doors have all been sound proofed with the exception of the roof! Kinda hard to do that one clean.Plus Im running dual optimas one red high cranking amps and one yellow top deep cycle.And Id have to say in the three fuller going on four years old that they are.And for not being charged often as the trucks been in solitary confinment as well I.The only chargings have been when I connect the battery charger to them and one at a particular time as you want to watch how you charge ether but from what Ive read in particularly the deep cycle.Or you can shorten its life span.However of the two the red is now showing some signs of fitigue.But both have been the most outstanding batterys of all Id owned and Id owned ALOT of various batterys in my life time.Do to running flatbottom v-drive boats for one that are brutal on batterys.Do to there ride in anything but smooth water and then made worse by bigger blocked and built HP rating to weight ratios.Then Id always been a cycle nut and harleys are by far as bad as the flatbottoms with shaking any batterys braincells loose! And so Ive since swapped over to the glass matt batterys in the bikes as for the old howard blast from the past! Theres a issue in space and so the old acid and worse forklift sized long battleship length is what has to be used! Plus as if the boat really needs more weight in its transum area!However once again the optimas have come back from what would had been certain death in any acid wet cell type battery.As those old nasty things cant handle anything below 12.25 volts and there toast! Not to mention two and a half years and there boat anchor material.Mean while there also a nasty damned mess! As the fumes create a mess on your posts as well Id had one even BLOW up and take about an eye opener! Like a shotgun going off under your hood! As the gases are explosive! While others and in both car and then my Roadking when we did afew flips together! Battery acid got all over the chrome that wasnt damaged in the crash was by acid! As well it ate holes clean through my nice leather vest that was cut off my then stabilized body.So theres awhole bunch in all better reasons why not to ever use one of those realics!Also if theres any interest in the particulars of my truck please feel free to e-mail me @ Toy4therock@yahoo.com as the enclosures are to be two pyramids for both rear corners and with baffles and fans plus push button wire terminals then bolted into the floor and back of the cab.Using all aluminum poprivets and stainless allens or machine screws in the hex head configuration.AS the trucks been built with about 400.00 just in all stainless fasteners to date.From bumper to interior and under the hood and through out the engine.Any place a grade eight bolt isnt required its stainless even the sheetmetal screws and ether in satin or I polish them out.As the custom tube and aluminum bed is also full of stainless as will be the on board gas powerd air compressor which can easily handle air tools! This beast is being built in all the very best.And when completed hopefully will be in petersons offroad or another publication.Theres a very good reason its been named Rockrig! As it will deliver it in any manner youd care for! Including dual engines for a days swap out in what ever your needs will require?One for offroad and lowend torque with the aid of super low transfercase gearing and a big billet steel presision ground flywheel sending its brute torque to the rear spooled when locked rear AIR locker and the detroit tru-trac front posi traction.Or when youd care to ether hit the sand dunes of this states by yuma or rocket to the pines of flag.Then the 250 Hp turbo charged four banged out bigger ponys and on pump fuel only.As then due to the garret turbo and the SDS injection and ignition system .You simply mix about 15% menthenal to primo and kick up the boost and map settings and now your looking at 300hp!! Which is no bother to this drive train! Like I said its name fits all bills of later gator! And for those who like to ROCK with your help and info it will then easily handle anything your ear drums can withstand. So its easy to assume its not any rig for the weak heartedlike all I like its fast and its LOUD.But at least there all really clean! Thanks abunch Id rather be pokin in the front than wrenchin from the rear! But whatever the case maybe I will be wired for sound!
swez on 09/29/2005 10:13:57
Egads!!!! Cannot decode half of what was posted dude. I just skimmed the main points and ignored the rest.
Care to summarize your key points in "short, well defined" paragraphs here friend? That will help our techs and installers to guide you through the steps to a top notch system. (run on topics are very hard to read)
Alpine Type R subs are great in the right enclosure design and adequate amping power. If you like tight, accurate bass with solid punch and good low bass, a sealed box is right for that preference.
If one prefers lots of deep bass, then ported/vented boxes, (tuned for optimal lows) will get the job done.
Amping a single 10 or 12" sub is also critical. Enough RMS power to match the sub and remain clean on transient peaks is key. Class D amps do a very good job of providing efficient power transfer to the sub(s). Since you are planning for a single sub, use a 4+4 DVC coil pack sub. This nets a 2 ohm load and most Class D amps are fine with that.
Going with a 2+2 DVC nets a 1 or 4 ohm load. Most Class D amps are not able to do 1 ohm loads w/o lots of extra heat. They generally cost more for that feature too. In short, go with a 4+4 DVC.
Budget? How much are you willing to pay for a 500 Wrms amp to power your sub?
Swez (aka Old Man Audio) Yeah, have been at this audio stuff a long time. Understand your point on old Punch amps... they rocked!
PS Welcome to CK! COFFEE
lessismorespl on 09/29/2005 21:18:10
WOW! The Type R subs are excellent subs. If I read write, before I went cross eyed, you are seeking SQ, well the Type R will definately give you excellent SQ.
less
Rockrig on 09/29/2005 23:02:50
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