Hello all, I am new here and really hope you can help me out.
I have read your amp/sub wiring diagrams and I want to know which is best for my set up. I have a Alpine MRD M-300 monoamp and (2) JL Audio DVC W3 V2 that I want to install. The amp is 2or4 ohm stable and the subs are of course 2ohm. Did I make a mistake in purchasing 2ohm subs wen I should have purchased 4ohm?
Thanks for any help you can lend me.
Giovanni
Replies (11)
Victor on 09/24/2005 15:48:36
No u did not make a mistake... that amp is 2ohm stable and you can wire those subs for a net load of 2 ohms..
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t33
Have a look at the pic titled"" 2 DVC Subs (Series VC’s, Parallel SUB’s) ""
That should do the trick
Hope that helps, but those subs are 300wrms each. and the amp will give 150wrms to each, it will play and even sound good, but you wont be able to push them to their full potential,, anyways thats not a big issue ..Its just that it wud have been better if you had one sub with 4ohm DVC..
Victor..
Rimini on 09/24/2005 18:32:15
Thanks Victor, I really appreciate the help. Now for the other part:
This amp has 10 adjustment modes or configurations. Can you please give me good basic settings for the following:
Input Level: 0.5V/1.0V/2.0V/4.0V (0dB/-6dB/-12dB/-18dB)
Low Pass Filter: On/Off? Frequency: 30-200Hz
Subsonic Filter: On/Off? Frequency:15Hz-50Hz
Parametric Equalizer: On/Off? Frequency: fc=30-160Hz
Parametric Equalizer Width: Q=1/3
Parametric Equalizer Level:+/-10dB
Bass Compensation: On/Off?
Time Correction: On/Off? Delay Time: 0-10ms
Phase: 0-180 degrees
Safe Mode: On/Off?
Memory Write Mode: Yes/No?
Memory Read Mode: Yes/No
Thank you again for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.
lessismorespl on 09/24/2005 19:59:40
If you could give us info on the enclosure you plan to use; such as: ported/vented, bandpass, or sealed, it would much easier for us to give you the proper ranges in freq. to use.
less
Rimini on 09/24/2005 20:55:54
Not a problem less, thank you.
The subs are in a sealed box with the air space recomended by JL Audio.
UKinstaller on 09/24/2005 22:02:29
what year is your M3?? if it's an E36, you're gonna want to take out those rear speakers. the trunk is pretty solid, so it's hard for bass to get through to the cabin without the seat being folded down.
also, the MRD-M300 is an AWESOME amp. i have one of those, and an MRD-M301, and several different subs that i have run off of them. in my experience, however, they are horrible at running two subs. because the gain settings are digital, it's impossible to max the amp out to it's full potential. since the JL's are 300w rms, one of the would match up perfect with the MRD-M300 (also 300w rms) and you could put the sub to it's full potential. it'll take up a lot less room, too.
if you need any help on the install i have a 1997 328is with an identical interior to a 95-99 M3. i've had it apart a million times.
-UK
Rimini on 09/24/2005 22:40:34
Thanks for the info UK. I have a 2002 and all the speakers have already been replaced with JL mids and highs and I have prewired it for the amp and subs. I thought about running another amp but I really dont need that much boom, just need enough to make it sound decent .
Victor on 09/24/2005 22:42:27
Also let us know what HU u are running, cause that will help u set the gain settings on the Amp...
Setting the LPF and the Subsonic filter will depend on what kind of bass u wanna hear and on the enclosure,
The kind of response your car gives to the bass, the reflections of sound waves created due to different shapes and materials of surfaces inside your car , the cabin gain and the way u perceive the sound will determine the way u set the EQ and bass boost on the Amp,
The time correction and the phase settings will depend on the response again cause only once u play music and sit in the car, will u realise what kind of phase and time delays are there so that u can adjust them accordingly to get it sound right..
Also all of the above will depend a lot on the rest of your configuration that is the mid bass, mid range and high frequency speakers, cause integrating the bass machine with the rest of the system is the most important aspect of any sound system.
Victor..
PS:
Almost all of these settings can be optimized only after u hear good amount of music in the car and keep on tweaking the settings till your ears get satisfactory sound.
So giving u a note of settings wont help much other than give u a basic starting point, you will have to add or subtract as per your requirement.
Hope this helps...
Comments....??
Rimini on 09/24/2005 23:14:29
This is helping me greatly Victor, I really appreciate all your imput fellas. I am running the Alpine CDA-9820XM head unit for this system.
I figured there was going to be a fair amount of tweeking involved and thats cool, I just really need a base line from which to start on these settings.
Thanks
Victor on 09/25/2005 07:06:57
The Alpine HU gives out 2V preouts, So ideally the gains ( input level )on yous amp should be set at 2V.
Since you are using a sealed enclosure and assuming that your Mids will play as low as 120Hz you can set your Low pass filter anywhere between 120-150Hz. And the sub-sonic filter at 20Hz. ( since its a sealed it aint necessary to turn it on Tho, but if you dont wanna give the sub extra pain to play frequencies you wont be able to hear then u can put it on )
Basically the LPF will not let frequencies higher then the specified value pass on to the sub, ie. if you set it at 120Hz the sub will get only the frequencies lower than 120Hz and none higher than that.
The sub sonic filter cuts out the sub-sonics ie. the lower range of frequencies which are more felt then heard. so if you set the Freq at 20Hz then the sub will get frequencies higher than 20Hz and none lower than that..
So with the LPF and SS filter set at 120Hz and 20Hz respectively you can expect your sub to playy frequencies between 20Hz and 120Hz.
Set the Parametric EQ flat . ie. all the freq at 0db. then you can go up or down as per your bass requirement.
let the bass compensation be off for the beginning and you can see how different it sounds when u put it on, if it is a desirable setting then use it orelse let it be off. basically its like another loudness circuit which enhances the bass frequencies.
Let the time correction be off and the phase at either 0' or 180; ie. no time delay circuits for the beginning, once you hear the music and if your car demands tweaking on the time correction only then use it orelse u can keep it off. Keep the phase at 0' ie. normal or 180' reversed to start with, once you are in the seat and listen to the music you will want to integrate the low freq with the mb drivers, and you may also like to acheive a certain kind of front stage, so you can change th phase accordingly to make it sound as if the sound is coming from the front stage.
Hope that helps...
comments...??
Victor...
Rimini on 09/25/2005 10:30:11
Thats awesome Victor, exactly what I needed. I will make those adjustments and let you know how it turns out. One question though, with regard to the phase you mentioned it could be adjuisted to sound like its coming from the front stage. What do you mean by front stage?
Thanks again
Giovanni
swez on 09/25/2005 11:06:12
This is a great amp and I helped a friend set his system up over the phone as he scrolled through the menus. Here's a good starter set point primer:
Input Level: 0.5V/1.0V/2.0V/4.0V (0dB/-6dB/-12dB/-18dB)
[Use 2.0 volts]
Low Pass Filter: On/Off? Frequency: 30-200Hz
[set between 80-100 Hz]
Subsonic Filter: On/Off? Frequency:15Hz-50Hz
[20-30 Hz is fine here]
Parametric Equalizer: On/Off? Frequency: fc=30-160Hz
[OFF initially, can go back and boost desired bass range as needed later]
Parametric Equalizer Width: Q=1/3
[Disable mode for now]
Parametric Equalizer Level:+/-10dB
[Diable for now]
Bass Compensation: On/Off?
[OFF for now]
Time Correction: On/Off? Delay Time: 0-10ms
[OFF for now]
Phase: 0-180 degrees
[Start with Zero, adjust in small increments to obtain best bass performance. Most likely, 0, 90 or 180 degrees will be the key points]
Safe Mode: On/Off?
[ON]
Memory Write Mode: Yes/No?
[Yes, if you wish to save settings to memory, NO, if you want to tweak]
Memory Read Mode: Yes/No
[NO initially, YES after you have dialed in all settings to optimal]
Hope that helps,
Swez
I have read your amp/sub wiring diagrams and I want to know which is best for my set up. I have a Alpine MRD M-300 monoamp and (2) JL Audio DVC W3 V2 that I want to install. The amp is 2or4 ohm stable and the subs are of course 2ohm. Did I make a mistake in purchasing 2ohm subs wen I should have purchased 4ohm?
Thanks for any help you can lend me.
Giovanni
Replies (11)
Victor on 09/24/2005 15:48:36
No u did not make a mistake... that amp is 2ohm stable and you can wire those subs for a net load of 2 ohms..
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t33
Have a look at the pic titled"" 2 DVC Subs (Series VC’s, Parallel SUB’s) ""
That should do the trick
Hope that helps, but those subs are 300wrms each. and the amp will give 150wrms to each, it will play and even sound good, but you wont be able to push them to their full potential,, anyways thats not a big issue ..Its just that it wud have been better if you had one sub with 4ohm DVC..
Victor..
Rimini on 09/24/2005 18:32:15
Thanks Victor, I really appreciate the help. Now for the other part:
This amp has 10 adjustment modes or configurations. Can you please give me good basic settings for the following:
Input Level: 0.5V/1.0V/2.0V/4.0V (0dB/-6dB/-12dB/-18dB)
Low Pass Filter: On/Off? Frequency: 30-200Hz
Subsonic Filter: On/Off? Frequency:15Hz-50Hz
Parametric Equalizer: On/Off? Frequency: fc=30-160Hz
Parametric Equalizer Width: Q=1/3
Parametric Equalizer Level:+/-10dB
Bass Compensation: On/Off?
Time Correction: On/Off? Delay Time: 0-10ms
Phase: 0-180 degrees
Safe Mode: On/Off?
Memory Write Mode: Yes/No?
Memory Read Mode: Yes/No
Thank you again for all your help, it is greatly appreciated.
lessismorespl on 09/24/2005 19:59:40
If you could give us info on the enclosure you plan to use; such as: ported/vented, bandpass, or sealed, it would much easier for us to give you the proper ranges in freq. to use.
less
Rimini on 09/24/2005 20:55:54
Not a problem less, thank you.
The subs are in a sealed box with the air space recomended by JL Audio.
UKinstaller on 09/24/2005 22:02:29
what year is your M3?? if it's an E36, you're gonna want to take out those rear speakers. the trunk is pretty solid, so it's hard for bass to get through to the cabin without the seat being folded down.
also, the MRD-M300 is an AWESOME amp. i have one of those, and an MRD-M301, and several different subs that i have run off of them. in my experience, however, they are horrible at running two subs. because the gain settings are digital, it's impossible to max the amp out to it's full potential. since the JL's are 300w rms, one of the would match up perfect with the MRD-M300 (also 300w rms) and you could put the sub to it's full potential. it'll take up a lot less room, too.
if you need any help on the install i have a 1997 328is with an identical interior to a 95-99 M3. i've had it apart a million times.
-UK
Rimini on 09/24/2005 22:40:34
Thanks for the info UK. I have a 2002 and all the speakers have already been replaced with JL mids and highs and I have prewired it for the amp and subs. I thought about running another amp but I really dont need that much boom, just need enough to make it sound decent .
Victor on 09/24/2005 22:42:27
Also let us know what HU u are running, cause that will help u set the gain settings on the Amp...
Setting the LPF and the Subsonic filter will depend on what kind of bass u wanna hear and on the enclosure,
The kind of response your car gives to the bass, the reflections of sound waves created due to different shapes and materials of surfaces inside your car , the cabin gain and the way u perceive the sound will determine the way u set the EQ and bass boost on the Amp,
The time correction and the phase settings will depend on the response again cause only once u play music and sit in the car, will u realise what kind of phase and time delays are there so that u can adjust them accordingly to get it sound right..
Also all of the above will depend a lot on the rest of your configuration that is the mid bass, mid range and high frequency speakers, cause integrating the bass machine with the rest of the system is the most important aspect of any sound system.
Victor..
PS:
Almost all of these settings can be optimized only after u hear good amount of music in the car and keep on tweaking the settings till your ears get satisfactory sound.
So giving u a note of settings wont help much other than give u a basic starting point, you will have to add or subtract as per your requirement.
Hope this helps...
Comments....??
Rimini on 09/24/2005 23:14:29
This is helping me greatly Victor, I really appreciate all your imput fellas. I am running the Alpine CDA-9820XM head unit for this system.
I figured there was going to be a fair amount of tweeking involved and thats cool, I just really need a base line from which to start on these settings.
Thanks
Victor on 09/25/2005 07:06:57
The Alpine HU gives out 2V preouts, So ideally the gains ( input level )on yous amp should be set at 2V.
Since you are using a sealed enclosure and assuming that your Mids will play as low as 120Hz you can set your Low pass filter anywhere between 120-150Hz. And the sub-sonic filter at 20Hz. ( since its a sealed it aint necessary to turn it on Tho, but if you dont wanna give the sub extra pain to play frequencies you wont be able to hear then u can put it on )
Basically the LPF will not let frequencies higher then the specified value pass on to the sub, ie. if you set it at 120Hz the sub will get only the frequencies lower than 120Hz and none higher than that.
The sub sonic filter cuts out the sub-sonics ie. the lower range of frequencies which are more felt then heard. so if you set the Freq at 20Hz then the sub will get frequencies higher than 20Hz and none lower than that..
So with the LPF and SS filter set at 120Hz and 20Hz respectively you can expect your sub to playy frequencies between 20Hz and 120Hz.
Set the Parametric EQ flat . ie. all the freq at 0db. then you can go up or down as per your bass requirement.
let the bass compensation be off for the beginning and you can see how different it sounds when u put it on, if it is a desirable setting then use it orelse let it be off. basically its like another loudness circuit which enhances the bass frequencies.
Let the time correction be off and the phase at either 0' or 180; ie. no time delay circuits for the beginning, once you hear the music and if your car demands tweaking on the time correction only then use it orelse u can keep it off. Keep the phase at 0' ie. normal or 180' reversed to start with, once you are in the seat and listen to the music you will want to integrate the low freq with the mb drivers, and you may also like to acheive a certain kind of front stage, so you can change th phase accordingly to make it sound as if the sound is coming from the front stage.
Hope that helps...
comments...??
Victor...
Rimini on 09/25/2005 10:30:11
Thats awesome Victor, exactly what I needed. I will make those adjustments and let you know how it turns out. One question though, with regard to the phase you mentioned it could be adjuisted to sound like its coming from the front stage. What do you mean by front stage?
Thanks again
Giovanni
swez on 09/25/2005 11:06:12
This is a great amp and I helped a friend set his system up over the phone as he scrolled through the menus. Here's a good starter set point primer:
Input Level: 0.5V/1.0V/2.0V/4.0V (0dB/-6dB/-12dB/-18dB)
[Use 2.0 volts]
Low Pass Filter: On/Off? Frequency: 30-200Hz
[set between 80-100 Hz]
Subsonic Filter: On/Off? Frequency:15Hz-50Hz
[20-30 Hz is fine here]
Parametric Equalizer: On/Off? Frequency: fc=30-160Hz
[OFF initially, can go back and boost desired bass range as needed later]
Parametric Equalizer Width: Q=1/3
[Disable mode for now]
Parametric Equalizer Level:+/-10dB
[Diable for now]
Bass Compensation: On/Off?
[OFF for now]
Time Correction: On/Off? Delay Time: 0-10ms
[OFF for now]
Phase: 0-180 degrees
[Start with Zero, adjust in small increments to obtain best bass performance. Most likely, 0, 90 or 180 degrees will be the key points]
Safe Mode: On/Off?
[ON]
Memory Write Mode: Yes/No?
[Yes, if you wish to save settings to memory, NO, if you want to tweak]
Memory Read Mode: Yes/No
[NO initially, YES after you have dialed in all settings to optimal]
Hope that helps,
Swez
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