I have a 2004 F-150 Regular Cab. I am plan ning on buying a JL Audio 10w3v2 and running it in JL's w3v2 Prowedge Box. I also plan to buy a JL Audio 500/1 Class D Slash amp. Is this a good setup? How do i wire this? Should I go with a 2 or 4 ohm impendence? Can I use my stock cd/radio?
Thankyou for the help!
Replies (17)
lessismorespl on 09/21/2005 20:16:35
This is an excellent set-up, maybe a little too much power for 1 W3v2, a 250/1 would suffice, but you may want to upgrade to a W6 or W7 later, so it would be a good investment and you can adjust the amp. As for what impedance to run the sub at, I would go w/ the 2ohm DVc and run it 4ohms, although, it really does not matter b/c the the slash series amps produce their rated wattage or more w/ a range of 1.5(min impedance) and 4ohm(max impedance) as well as produce the rated power w/ an imput voltage range of 10.5-14.4. This will be a nice clean set-up and a wise investment. A little pricey as you may already know, but I always say "if you want good equipment, pay a little extra for it" you will be much happier in the long run.
I would use 4ga power and ground wire. You can use your factory unit, but you will have to get a LOC(Line Out Converter). JL makes a sweet LOC called the "Clean Sweep" it is basically a lineout converter, a line driver, and an EQ/Xover all in one, however they do run about $300......a good LOC will run you about $100 by itself.
less
UKinstaller on 09/21/2005 21:56:36
personally i would use the high level inputs on the JL amp. it will save you $25 for a line out converter (you don't need anything special since your factory system is not amplified). the high level inputs on the JL 500/1 are every bit as good as using a good set of RCA's.
just my two cents. excellent setup, by the way.
-UK
p.s a JL Audio 10w7 has an RMS rating of 500w. it would match perfect with your 500/1 and in my opinion is the best sub on the market.
grouper_getter on 09/21/2005 22:57:59
I love the 10w7, don't get me wrong, but i am just trying to boost the bass in my truck. The w7 just seems overkill, not to mention its price! I think i'm gonna go with the 250/1 and the 10w3v2. The only question i had was if the amp will be able to push the sub to its potential, meaning if i really crank up the volume, will the amp be able to keep up, or will my sub hit a certain level and stay there?
Thanks for the help!
swez on 09/22/2005 07:28:41
If you went with a ported sub enclosure per JL 10w3v2specs, the 250/1 will be plenty of clean bass and not too hard on your electricals either.
Less makes some great points if you have the time and cash flow to do it the way he outlined. However, as UK states, using the high level inputs on the /1 amp, it will convert speaker level voltages to line level voltages automatically for you. This way, no extra devices are needed and a simple set of speaker wires off the rear speakers, will provide audio signals for the amp.
Simply review the details of how to do this via the JL web site install manual.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/6952.pdf
Swez
grouper_getter on 09/22/2005 18:15:08
so which amp should i use? The 500/1 or the 250/1?
swez on 09/22/2005 19:30:03
For a small cabin, the 250/1 is plenty of amping power for a single ported 10 or 12" v2-D4 series sub. Both are rated for 300 watts RMS and the 250/1 delivers a bit more than 250 watts RMS, depending on voltage it gets fro your electricals.
However, if you wish to have a bit more bass, go for the 500/1 and pair of v2-D2 subs or a single W7. The prices are notably higher this route, but if you desire 4-6dB more bass, that'll do it.
Swez
grouper_getter on 09/22/2005 19:35:51
Okay, went to the JL Dealer. He talked me into a JL 10w7. Now, he said to either get the 500/1, or the 1000/1. So which one should i get, without overpowering my truck.
Thank you some much for all of the help!
lessismorespl on 09/22/2005 21:16:12
Most W7's aqre 1.5 ohm, I would go w/ the 500/1, the 1000/1 would probably give you a little too much bass, and I believe you stated earlier that you just wanted to enhance the bass. The 500/1 w/ 4 ga. wire has been board tested @ 1.5 ohm w/ an input of 13.8 volts to produce 720 wRMS, which would suit the W7 very well. You may want to consider putting an amp on your mids/highs also to even out the overall SQ of the vehicle......just something to consider...
less
grouper_getter on 09/22/2005 22:03:14
thankyou
UKinstaller on 09/23/2005 00:24:08
go with the 500/1. i had a 500/1 on a 10w7 once in a bmw with a solid back seat, and the sound was still incredible. in a truck it's going to be out of this world.
-UK
lessismorespl on 09/23/2005 08:02:18
Exactly, the SQ of a W7 is excellent, and the 500/1 is a great amp. I think you will be very happy w/ this set-up.
less
grouper_getter on 09/23/2005 17:50:45
Alright, i purchased a JL 10w7, and a JL 500/1 Slash amp. I had installed at about 5. On the way home, i was rattling the car next to me. This is awesome! my next purchase will be a component system. My sub rocks, but my speakers suck. Im not sure what i need. I have a lot of bass now, so should i get a three way, or a two? Keep in mind that my truck has two front speakers, and two rear.
Thanks
swez on 09/24/2005 08:59:32
Many truck owners opt for a strong set of Component speakers up front and a potent 2 channel amp to power them. The rear speakers may be all but useless here as the bass becomes the rear channel.
If you want balanced full range in the rear, can use a strong set of coaxials if you wish. They can be amped too. Some like to provide rear fill only, off the HU. If you want them to cut through the bass, amping them and use a HP crossover at say 80-100 Hz., will help a lot. If using the HU amps only, need Bass Blockers to filter out lows.
Swez
ttocs on 09/24/2005 11:54:23
i think you have 5 x 7's in your doors? You can put a 6.5 and a tweeter in there with out too much trouble. You could use the same way I did mine and do some easy enclosures as well, but you would need to mount the tweeter to the door panel.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2081149
Do you have a router, or access to one?
grouper_getter on 09/24/2005 18:32:34
My trucks front doors have a space for two 5x7's and it already has a mounting place for a tweeter inside the door. I already planned on using that for my tweeters. I was just not sure how to do the rear speakers.
lessismorespl on 09/24/2005 19:51:59
Yes, actually, w/ just a slight trimming, you can get 6.5's there, that is what I have in my Taurus now, a set of CDT Audio 2 ways. If money is not a problem, check out a set of 3-way components and drop the rear speakers. CDT Audio, JL Audio, Boston Acoustics, and Focal all make excellent 3-way comps. Get a
JL 300/2 and I think you would be extremely happy w/ the difference it will make and exstatic w/ the SQ it will produce.
less
P.S. If you mount the tweeter on your dash or pillars facing at a 90 degree angle into the windshield the reflection goes right to the drivers & passengers seat which gives you really bright highs.
ttocs on 09/25/2005 01:42:40
whats the concern with the rear speakers?
If you need mounting baffles, I have not mounted mine yet and it would be easy to copy them with my router. Not sure what shipping would be since I don't know where you are, I am in phoenix. These baffles should work in the rear as well.
Thankyou for the help!
Replies (17)
lessismorespl on 09/21/2005 20:16:35
This is an excellent set-up, maybe a little too much power for 1 W3v2, a 250/1 would suffice, but you may want to upgrade to a W6 or W7 later, so it would be a good investment and you can adjust the amp. As for what impedance to run the sub at, I would go w/ the 2ohm DVc and run it 4ohms, although, it really does not matter b/c the the slash series amps produce their rated wattage or more w/ a range of 1.5(min impedance) and 4ohm(max impedance) as well as produce the rated power w/ an imput voltage range of 10.5-14.4. This will be a nice clean set-up and a wise investment. A little pricey as you may already know, but I always say "if you want good equipment, pay a little extra for it" you will be much happier in the long run.
I would use 4ga power and ground wire. You can use your factory unit, but you will have to get a LOC(Line Out Converter). JL makes a sweet LOC called the "Clean Sweep" it is basically a lineout converter, a line driver, and an EQ/Xover all in one, however they do run about $300......a good LOC will run you about $100 by itself.
less
UKinstaller on 09/21/2005 21:56:36
personally i would use the high level inputs on the JL amp. it will save you $25 for a line out converter (you don't need anything special since your factory system is not amplified). the high level inputs on the JL 500/1 are every bit as good as using a good set of RCA's.
just my two cents. excellent setup, by the way.
-UK
p.s a JL Audio 10w7 has an RMS rating of 500w. it would match perfect with your 500/1 and in my opinion is the best sub on the market.
grouper_getter on 09/21/2005 22:57:59
I love the 10w7, don't get me wrong, but i am just trying to boost the bass in my truck. The w7 just seems overkill, not to mention its price! I think i'm gonna go with the 250/1 and the 10w3v2. The only question i had was if the amp will be able to push the sub to its potential, meaning if i really crank up the volume, will the amp be able to keep up, or will my sub hit a certain level and stay there?
Thanks for the help!
swez on 09/22/2005 07:28:41
If you went with a ported sub enclosure per JL 10w3v2specs, the 250/1 will be plenty of clean bass and not too hard on your electricals either.
Less makes some great points if you have the time and cash flow to do it the way he outlined. However, as UK states, using the high level inputs on the /1 amp, it will convert speaker level voltages to line level voltages automatically for you. This way, no extra devices are needed and a simple set of speaker wires off the rear speakers, will provide audio signals for the amp.
Simply review the details of how to do this via the JL web site install manual.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/6952.pdf
Swez
grouper_getter on 09/22/2005 18:15:08
so which amp should i use? The 500/1 or the 250/1?
swez on 09/22/2005 19:30:03
For a small cabin, the 250/1 is plenty of amping power for a single ported 10 or 12" v2-D4 series sub. Both are rated for 300 watts RMS and the 250/1 delivers a bit more than 250 watts RMS, depending on voltage it gets fro your electricals.
However, if you wish to have a bit more bass, go for the 500/1 and pair of v2-D2 subs or a single W7. The prices are notably higher this route, but if you desire 4-6dB more bass, that'll do it.
Swez
grouper_getter on 09/22/2005 19:35:51
Okay, went to the JL Dealer. He talked me into a JL 10w7. Now, he said to either get the 500/1, or the 1000/1. So which one should i get, without overpowering my truck.
Thank you some much for all of the help!
lessismorespl on 09/22/2005 21:16:12
Most W7's aqre 1.5 ohm, I would go w/ the 500/1, the 1000/1 would probably give you a little too much bass, and I believe you stated earlier that you just wanted to enhance the bass. The 500/1 w/ 4 ga. wire has been board tested @ 1.5 ohm w/ an input of 13.8 volts to produce 720 wRMS, which would suit the W7 very well. You may want to consider putting an amp on your mids/highs also to even out the overall SQ of the vehicle......just something to consider...
less
grouper_getter on 09/22/2005 22:03:14
thankyou
UKinstaller on 09/23/2005 00:24:08
go with the 500/1. i had a 500/1 on a 10w7 once in a bmw with a solid back seat, and the sound was still incredible. in a truck it's going to be out of this world.
-UK
lessismorespl on 09/23/2005 08:02:18
Exactly, the SQ of a W7 is excellent, and the 500/1 is a great amp. I think you will be very happy w/ this set-up.
less
grouper_getter on 09/23/2005 17:50:45
Alright, i purchased a JL 10w7, and a JL 500/1 Slash amp. I had installed at about 5. On the way home, i was rattling the car next to me. This is awesome! my next purchase will be a component system. My sub rocks, but my speakers suck. Im not sure what i need. I have a lot of bass now, so should i get a three way, or a two? Keep in mind that my truck has two front speakers, and two rear.
Thanks
swez on 09/24/2005 08:59:32
Many truck owners opt for a strong set of Component speakers up front and a potent 2 channel amp to power them. The rear speakers may be all but useless here as the bass becomes the rear channel.
If you want balanced full range in the rear, can use a strong set of coaxials if you wish. They can be amped too. Some like to provide rear fill only, off the HU. If you want them to cut through the bass, amping them and use a HP crossover at say 80-100 Hz., will help a lot. If using the HU amps only, need Bass Blockers to filter out lows.
Swez
ttocs on 09/24/2005 11:54:23
i think you have 5 x 7's in your doors? You can put a 6.5 and a tweeter in there with out too much trouble. You could use the same way I did mine and do some easy enclosures as well, but you would need to mount the tweeter to the door panel.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2081149
Do you have a router, or access to one?
grouper_getter on 09/24/2005 18:32:34
My trucks front doors have a space for two 5x7's and it already has a mounting place for a tweeter inside the door. I already planned on using that for my tweeters. I was just not sure how to do the rear speakers.
lessismorespl on 09/24/2005 19:51:59
Yes, actually, w/ just a slight trimming, you can get 6.5's there, that is what I have in my Taurus now, a set of CDT Audio 2 ways. If money is not a problem, check out a set of 3-way components and drop the rear speakers. CDT Audio, JL Audio, Boston Acoustics, and Focal all make excellent 3-way comps. Get a
JL 300/2 and I think you would be extremely happy w/ the difference it will make and exstatic w/ the SQ it will produce.
less
P.S. If you mount the tweeter on your dash or pillars facing at a 90 degree angle into the windshield the reflection goes right to the drivers & passengers seat which gives you really bright highs.
ttocs on 09/25/2005 01:42:40
whats the concern with the rear speakers?
If you need mounting baffles, I have not mounted mine yet and it would be easy to copy them with my router. Not sure what shipping would be since I don't know where you are, I am in phoenix. These baffles should work in the rear as well.
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