i just wanted to know what capasitors are what do they do and if u have to have a big amp(like 4000 watts) to run one so if u have any info on them let me know. just tryin tolearn some new things about my new love(car stereo's)thanks again USFLAG
Replies (3)
swez on 07/15/2005 11:16:07
Not a great option here. Best to spend that money on larger BAT/ALT and wires.
Basically, they can work to manage minor light dimming issues. But wire gage upgrades on "The Big 3" tend to be much more performance and cost effective. Here's a link regarding the Big 3 upgrade:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g3481_2026
Swez
lessismorespl on 07/16/2005 03:56:34
Swez is correct. A capacitor's purpose is to supply extra voltage for those long bass hits. However, they really do not help much. I have heard all the stories about "my lights quit dimming after installing a cap" or "my system seems to work better after installing a cap" I say show me.
Here is a quick break down of my personal testing on my own car, as well as 3 cars I do tech work on for competition:
My car was getting 14V to the dash and about 13.6V to the trunk. My lights dimmed slightly on long bass notes w/ the volume just over halfway. I added a 5 farad capacitor, my voltage to the trunk dropped to 13.2V on avg. and would drastically jump back and forth between 12.8V and 13.6V, never remaining constant.
I take out the cap, add a Optima Red Top 1000CA 850CCA 110RC battery, upgrade all my wiring to 4ga, (Alt. to Battery + Battery to chasis ground + chasis to block ground = Big 3), replaced all my ring terminals and thoroughly cleaned all the connection points....
Result: my voltage stays between 13.6 and 14 @ the dash, and 13.4 - 13.8 in the trunk, no heavy drops even on long bass notes, and my lights do not dim. The big 3 cost me apprx. $30, I used the best wire(Streetwires) as well as Streetwires ring terminals, etc... It can be done for as little as $15-$20. These results were not only present in my vehicle, but in the other 3 vehicles as well. None of the vehicles I tech on, nor none of my vehicles have caps anymore.
Sorry to be so long winded, but to end this, if a person says you need a cap, and that a cap helps, get you a DMM(Digital Multimeter) tell them to turn up their system to about halfway on a song w/ low freq. long bass notes. Test the voltage at the amp, then disconnect the cap and run the power straight to the amp and test it again. The ending result, less resistance = more voltage to the amp. Now if you do the Big 3, buy a good deep cycle battery, and upgrade to a H/O alt, a cap can be somewhat useful, but not a whole lot, you would be better off buying another deep cycle battery and running it in the trunk, the cost would be about the same.
less
swez on 07/16/2005 14:22:50
Well documented test and no matter what a salesman will tell you, most CAPS add resistance (SIR) to the power feed circuit. That results in lower voltage being available to the amplier(s). Hense, the CAP actually becomes more of a load to the system then an aid.
A voltmeter does not lie! It tells the voltage at a given location where tests are done. The power (voltage readings at the BAT) are only part of the story. What the amp actually gets in the end, is the number to concentrate on. That means low resistance wires, solid grounding techniques and good termination hardware.
Swez
PS Have always known CAPs were iffy at best. Even the guys who invented them, (Rich Clark & Dave Navone) have recanted to say they really are not all that effective for daily driver systems. Less' consistant inputs and testing measures have confirmed what I intuitively knew all along. In this case, Less-Is-More! USFLAG
Replies (3)
swez on 07/15/2005 11:16:07
Not a great option here. Best to spend that money on larger BAT/ALT and wires.
Basically, they can work to manage minor light dimming issues. But wire gage upgrades on "The Big 3" tend to be much more performance and cost effective. Here's a link regarding the Big 3 upgrade:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g3481_2026
Swez
lessismorespl on 07/16/2005 03:56:34
Swez is correct. A capacitor's purpose is to supply extra voltage for those long bass hits. However, they really do not help much. I have heard all the stories about "my lights quit dimming after installing a cap" or "my system seems to work better after installing a cap" I say show me.
Here is a quick break down of my personal testing on my own car, as well as 3 cars I do tech work on for competition:
My car was getting 14V to the dash and about 13.6V to the trunk. My lights dimmed slightly on long bass notes w/ the volume just over halfway. I added a 5 farad capacitor, my voltage to the trunk dropped to 13.2V on avg. and would drastically jump back and forth between 12.8V and 13.6V, never remaining constant.
I take out the cap, add a Optima Red Top 1000CA 850CCA 110RC battery, upgrade all my wiring to 4ga, (Alt. to Battery + Battery to chasis ground + chasis to block ground = Big 3), replaced all my ring terminals and thoroughly cleaned all the connection points....
Result: my voltage stays between 13.6 and 14 @ the dash, and 13.4 - 13.8 in the trunk, no heavy drops even on long bass notes, and my lights do not dim. The big 3 cost me apprx. $30, I used the best wire(Streetwires) as well as Streetwires ring terminals, etc... It can be done for as little as $15-$20. These results were not only present in my vehicle, but in the other 3 vehicles as well. None of the vehicles I tech on, nor none of my vehicles have caps anymore.
Sorry to be so long winded, but to end this, if a person says you need a cap, and that a cap helps, get you a DMM(Digital Multimeter) tell them to turn up their system to about halfway on a song w/ low freq. long bass notes. Test the voltage at the amp, then disconnect the cap and run the power straight to the amp and test it again. The ending result, less resistance = more voltage to the amp. Now if you do the Big 3, buy a good deep cycle battery, and upgrade to a H/O alt, a cap can be somewhat useful, but not a whole lot, you would be better off buying another deep cycle battery and running it in the trunk, the cost would be about the same.
less
swez on 07/16/2005 14:22:50
Well documented test and no matter what a salesman will tell you, most CAPS add resistance (SIR) to the power feed circuit. That results in lower voltage being available to the amplier(s). Hense, the CAP actually becomes more of a load to the system then an aid.
A voltmeter does not lie! It tells the voltage at a given location where tests are done. The power (voltage readings at the BAT) are only part of the story. What the amp actually gets in the end, is the number to concentrate on. That means low resistance wires, solid grounding techniques and good termination hardware.
Swez
PS Have always known CAPs were iffy at best. Even the guys who invented them, (Rich Clark & Dave Navone) have recanted to say they really are not all that effective for daily driver systems. Less' consistant inputs and testing measures have confirmed what I intuitively knew all along. In this case, Less-Is-More! USFLAG
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