hello everyone im having problems with a setup. i have a jvc HU, rockford foasgate amp, and subs. and a 2001 civic. ive installed systems before and the one currently in the car did at one time work. ok read carefully---->so the amp is a mono sub amp hooked up as such /-/ + battery terminal to + in on amp /-/ ground from chassis to ground or - in on amp /-/ remote wire from back of head unit to remote wire in on amp /-/ rca outs from head unit to rca in on amp /-/ this is what happens> when i plug in the +, - and remote the amp doesnt turn on even if the radio is (it should right? when i plug in the rca's the amp turns on and the speakers (all of them even the subs) make a pop and no sound comes out from subs ( ive checked the gain control setting and it doesnt make any difference where its at) (ive checked to make sure the rca's are putting out signal and they are) ive checked fuses on the amp HU and the biggie on the main power lead and all are fine. now the thing is there was a point when it worked fine so i thought i blew the amp (nope) i bought a new one and it does the same thing i know the speakers are fine i tested them elsewhere. so what is going on. i even sent in the head unit for service and it was tested and retested and is working properly. please help me if u can. any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated
Replies (3)
Relax_The_Mind on 07/18/2003 02:24:48
hmmm... yes that is straight up troubleshooting here.
A couple things you can check. First off are bad connections somewhere. Did you check all the power and remote wires for power (especially ground). Amp kits even expensive ones can come loose at parts or even not make contact.
A problem I have seen most of the time is the fuse areas. The so called "gold" plating and rocky connections can cause an open in the line. A fuse can also be bad and not 'blown' a problem i've seen more often with radio shack fuses.
What model amp do you have? Brand and exact models help a lot. But over anything the first thing I would do is check power levels.
RTM
Swez on 07/18/2003 06:26:19
It sounds like the amp is either loosing REM turn on signal from the HU of the that signal is too weak to keep the amp on. Not common in single amp installs, but with several amps and co-processors on the same HU REM, this is possible.
Try jumping main power lug to REM... remove the REM feed first) and see if the amp stays on that way. If yes, REM feed is weak and may have to install a new REM turn on off IGN/ACC tap in fuse panel. Amp will be on, only when key is in ACC/IGN positions.
Could be the main power line fuse if the amp come on initially, then shuts off as the fuse or line connection is not making full contact. Rare condition.... but it can happen.
Also, if the HU is not grounded to the vehicle chassis/body ground (not harness ground) you may have to modify that as well. The fact that the RCA's connected to amp will work initially, tells me you may have a HU ground issue.
Finally, that RF amp can handle 2 ohm loads or higher. Depending on your subs and how they are wired, if the speaker load resistance drops below 2 ohms, the amp will go into protect mode. What subs are you using now and how are they wired to this amp?
Swez
Tray on 07/18/2003 10:38:11
A good, easy, cheap way to check whether or not it's the head unit, is to do as Swez says with the Remote and 12V+ coming from the same constant power source. While doing this, you can connect a walkman or the like by buying a cheapo radio shack signal splitter (Y wire that plugs into the headphone jack, and supplies two RCA plugs). I always keep this setup in my toolbox.
Replies (3)
Relax_The_Mind on 07/18/2003 02:24:48
hmmm... yes that is straight up troubleshooting here.
A couple things you can check. First off are bad connections somewhere. Did you check all the power and remote wires for power (especially ground). Amp kits even expensive ones can come loose at parts or even not make contact.
A problem I have seen most of the time is the fuse areas. The so called "gold" plating and rocky connections can cause an open in the line. A fuse can also be bad and not 'blown' a problem i've seen more often with radio shack fuses.
What model amp do you have? Brand and exact models help a lot. But over anything the first thing I would do is check power levels.
RTM
Swez on 07/18/2003 06:26:19
It sounds like the amp is either loosing REM turn on signal from the HU of the that signal is too weak to keep the amp on. Not common in single amp installs, but with several amps and co-processors on the same HU REM, this is possible.
Try jumping main power lug to REM... remove the REM feed first) and see if the amp stays on that way. If yes, REM feed is weak and may have to install a new REM turn on off IGN/ACC tap in fuse panel. Amp will be on, only when key is in ACC/IGN positions.
Could be the main power line fuse if the amp come on initially, then shuts off as the fuse or line connection is not making full contact. Rare condition.... but it can happen.
Also, if the HU is not grounded to the vehicle chassis/body ground (not harness ground) you may have to modify that as well. The fact that the RCA's connected to amp will work initially, tells me you may have a HU ground issue.
Finally, that RF amp can handle 2 ohm loads or higher. Depending on your subs and how they are wired, if the speaker load resistance drops below 2 ohms, the amp will go into protect mode. What subs are you using now and how are they wired to this amp?
Swez
Tray on 07/18/2003 10:38:11
A good, easy, cheap way to check whether or not it's the head unit, is to do as Swez says with the Remote and 12V+ coming from the same constant power source. While doing this, you can connect a walkman or the like by buying a cheapo radio shack signal splitter (Y wire that plugs into the headphone jack, and supplies two RCA plugs). I always keep this setup in my toolbox.
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