what would everone say is the best subs one can buy for under $500?
Replies (13)
ssallstar598 on 06/9/2005 22:49:29
THE BEST sub you could buy for under 500 bux but still pretty expensive would be the Resonant Engineering aka RE (sp?) XXX or the RE seXXX which is a very rare sub but there is one on ebay right now... just search for resonant engineering and it will come up w/ it
the RE XXX can be bought BNIB for around 400-440 i believe....
the RE seXXX is a sub that RE custom made for people who sent in their se's and combined the massive excursion of the XXX and the frequency of the SE and made it into 1 sub for special buyers...
im not sure how cheap the Adire Audio Brahmas are but they are AMAZING subs... i would go w/ a Brahma over an RE any day of the week
lessismorespl on 06/9/2005 23:04:22
Actually, you can get the RE MT for under $500, or you can get 2 SE's for under $500 easy. I would say the Digital Designs 3500 series are a good buy for under $500, as are the new MTX 7500's and 8500's.
ssallstar598 on 06/10/2005 04:22:42
yeah i completely forgot about the SE and MT.... ANYthing RE moves some serious air....
adire tempests 15 inch are 150 apeice, i run one and im giving it 300 watts and its LOUD! loud enough to break the roof rack off my blazer
i wouldnt go w/ mtx.... they are a label brand which means everyone and their mom will have the same thing u got.... no offense to the sub its not a bad sub but i know i got rid of my 2 12 kicker CVRs for 1 tempest... mainly cause everyone has kicker and also the tempest excursion @ 300 watts is amazing for 150 bux
Victor on 06/10/2005 05:02:20
Well I have never been able to put my finger on one sub till now.
It all depends on what kind of sound are you looking for..Do u want it Loud?? crisp clear?? or like most of other guys u looking for Loud and Clear??
Also most of the sound depends on installation and enclosure selection.
When it comes to products within a price range there is not much difference between the subs falling into that range.
Unless and until u wanna compete in sound-off's ( thats the nly place where the numbers matter ), other than that which ever one you pick will not make a big difference. cause only in sound competitions every smallest detail matters.
I would personally go for a sub with moderate SPL and really good amount of Clarity. I would look for a Higher sensitivity number ( many manufacturers have different parameters to measure those, so u gotta be aware ).
Unless you are not into some serious SPL stuff u wont have to look at things like higher Xmax etc, or cone surface area etc.
Some new Kenwood Excelon, Alpine type X , Polk MOMO, Blaupunkt Velocity, RE, Adire, DD and few others make excellent subs with a mix of SPL and SQ,
Also its difficult to point out a particular sub cause its not all about money 500$$$, but it depends a lot on what kind of amp u got, what kind of setup u desire, the type of music u hear initiates the kind of enclosure u choose, kind of space available.. etc..
So when someone asks me, "What is the best sub I can buy in $$$??" All I got to say Is , "Dude the best one I have seen is a smaller working model of the US Navy Sub(marine), kids love to play with it."
lol.. sorry if i am being mean, but i guess u get my point.
Victor..
MrBrownstone on 06/10/2005 14:44:40
I have to side with Victor...
90% of this game is installation, 10% is the equipment. There isn't one product or manufacturer that is best at anything. There may be cost efficacy, but no best.
Here's a link to a post by one of the most biased car audio enthusiasts of all time:
http://p205.ezboard.com/fcaraudioknowledgefrm7.showMessage?topicID=16.topic
That link should help you understand the buying decision. Although the post is older, still, it's written with the idea of saving you money. To answer your question, below is a list of about a bazillion subs that are worth your money. Trust me, it's not a complete list, just 30 or so woofers that'll perform equally.
In a nutshell, 20 'manufacturers' (or should we say marketing companies) use the same builder, so their woofers are similar quality and quality control.
I've had 25 different models sound identically flawless in my vehicles over (gulp) 17 years. Basically, it comes down to installation, how much power you are going to use, and the most important thing, WHAT YOU ARE USING THEM FOR.
When competing in DB DRAG or the like, the huge magnet, huge cone area, high power handling subs are your best bet. When looking for good quality sound, small to midsize magnet woofers are usually the sub of choice.
I don't want to make the comparison that magnet size means anything, just that typically, if a manufacturer is trying to impress you with the size of magnets, the sturdiness of the basket, or the power handling, you are not purchasing any more quality of sound--just power handling. Some suggestions for a total of ~$500 on Great sounding woofers...provided you install them correctly (box and the rest of the system)
A/D/S all models (more power, more expense)
Alpine SWS
Alpine SWR (more power handling, sim sound)
Alumapro Alusonic EX series and above (more power/expense)
Audiobahn AlumQ series (although chrome is ridiculous)
Boston Acoustic G2 series (anything higher more power)
CDT Audio CL Series and above (just more power, more expense)
DEI Midlevel or higher
Diamond Audio (all models, just more expensive more power)
Eclipse (MP/ME)
Focal (MP/ME)
Image Dynamics (MP/ME)
Infinity(except the bottom of the barrel) MP/ME
JL Audio W3 series or higher (MP/ME)
Kicker, although annoying Square subs (MP/ME)
MB Quartgate PWE Series (although a little pricey)
Memphis MC series
MMATS all makes ((MP/ME)
MTX 7500 series or better (MP/ME)
Polk most models (MP/ME)
Rockford Quartgate (except bottom of barrel) (MP/ME)
See my problem in making a recommendation? When you decide which way you are going let us know what factors into your decision.
Victor on 06/10/2005 15:33:47
Wow Mr.B .. thats a link to your own write-up..hehehehe
By the way I Agree cent percent with every single word you have written there..
Also about installation, With an extraordinary install one can make the ordinary equipment sound excellent, and excellent equipment can sound crap with a poor install.
When people bash brand names saying that "they sound crap" or they are not loud enough" and things like that, what they actually do is reveal their incompetence at installing and lack of understanding or car acoustics.
With just a bunch of Real manufacturers you can expect more than a bit of similarity between many brands and products, Just a bit of change in the looks of a Speaker or some minor tweaking in the specs will not make a speaker sound WAY better then the other.
The worst part is when the company tries to back up their product in comparison to others by writing ****ty articles and expalnations. They do nothing but mis-guide for their own motives. There is nothing wrong in this cause they are doing business, but as a consumer this awareness ire really necessary to stop you from being fooled.
I guess thats enuf of it now.. lol.. i can go on and on about this,,
Victor..
P.s. :- Mr.B seems you have run out of humor.. come on ol' man we havent had a good laugh in this forum since long.. throw in some of ur humorous jokes..
lol..hehehehehehe.. just the thought of you putting up a joke makes me laugh.. I cant imagine whats gonna follow..hehe
MrBrownstone on 06/10/2005 16:19:04
sent you a club mail. You would not believe....
Victor on 06/10/2005 16:31:12
dunno am not able to open the club mail.. why dont u send it to info@victorexports.com
lessismorespl on 06/10/2005 19:44:33
I have to agree w/ both of you. You really can't say one sub is better than another, it all depends on what you are trying to get out of your system. also, installation is the most important part of any system. When I bought my W3's, people all said they sound great but are not loud.....I'm hitting 142+ dB's. I built an enclosure to give me the best possible SPL w/out losing much in SQ. Any higher than 142 it begins to sound sloppy.
I have to disagree w/ the statement of not buying a sub b/c everyone else has them. The MTX 7500, 8500, and 9500 are excellent subs.....1 MTX 9500 15 in a handmade ported enclosure was hitting 150+ dB's and still held it's composure. If you go to dB Drags, almost everyone in sanction competition has Digital Designs.
This may be somewhat off topic, but I recently bought some CDT subs off ebay and they are some awesome sounding subs, especially for under $100 ea. So you can never judge or determine what sub is the best. It is all a matter of how well you build your enclosure, how well you tune your system, and the quality of installation. I can make a set of Pyramid subs sound great w/ a Legacy amp.
less
swez on 06/10/2005 20:53:45
Amazing! All the big hitters on this site agree on the same subject. What's that cost? PRICELESS !!!
Agreed with all comments as well. Install and setup optimizing makes a world of difference, no matter what gear we choose. As long as we use the equipment within design parameters provided by the mfg. (They should know... they specified the parameters)
Some guys can make a set of trash can lids sound good too. Tin or ABS plastic for the cone material you say??? Swez... have you lost all your marbles again? Rediculous argument... we all know trash can lids are not used for subs. (or maybe we could try?) With enough amp power, anything is possible.
Great posts guys! Mr. B. is now officially famous! (or should I say... infamous"?) Even in 2001.
Swez
lessismorespl on 06/11/2005 07:43:40
There are things you can debate, and things you can't. This is one of the ones you can't really debate on. Installation, which IMO includes building the enclosure, plays the biggest role in how a system will sound. Many of the retail chains want these cars in and out quickly, so there is not much time taken in detail, plus most try to push prefab enclosures, rather than build them(I do not think BB or CC will build an enclosure). There is no time taken to check over voltage, set the amps properly, etc... It took me a couple free hours at the shop just to get my rear deck speakers staged to my satisfaction, same w/ the fronts.
As for subwoofers, all subwoofers have one purpose, reproduce low freq sound. Some may do it better than others, some may be somewhat louder than others, the wattage ratings are different, but the bottom line is this: IF THE ENCLOSURE IS NOT RIGHT, THE SUBS WILL NOT PERFORM LIKE THEY COULD IN THE RIGHT ENCLOSURE!!!!
SAME W/ AMPS, IF THERE IS TOO MUCH RESISTANCE, THE SETTINGS ARE OFF A LITTLE, ETC... THAT AMP WILL NOT PERFORM AS IT SHOULD.
I see this several times a week, we bring the car in, change a few settings on the amp or crossovers and the whole sound of the system changes. Installation and detail to installationare what makes a system not only sound good, but perform like it should.
less
swez on 06/11/2005 10:05:50
Well said Less... ditto here!
Swez
Joeychocolates on 06/12/2005 13:42:05
would a 15" Resonant Engineering HC be to much? I want my car sounding loud...
or this off ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48613&item=5781401237&rd=1
Replies (13)
ssallstar598 on 06/9/2005 22:49:29
THE BEST sub you could buy for under 500 bux but still pretty expensive would be the Resonant Engineering aka RE (sp?) XXX or the RE seXXX which is a very rare sub but there is one on ebay right now... just search for resonant engineering and it will come up w/ it
the RE XXX can be bought BNIB for around 400-440 i believe....
the RE seXXX is a sub that RE custom made for people who sent in their se's and combined the massive excursion of the XXX and the frequency of the SE and made it into 1 sub for special buyers...
im not sure how cheap the Adire Audio Brahmas are but they are AMAZING subs... i would go w/ a Brahma over an RE any day of the week
lessismorespl on 06/9/2005 23:04:22
Actually, you can get the RE MT for under $500, or you can get 2 SE's for under $500 easy. I would say the Digital Designs 3500 series are a good buy for under $500, as are the new MTX 7500's and 8500's.
ssallstar598 on 06/10/2005 04:22:42
yeah i completely forgot about the SE and MT.... ANYthing RE moves some serious air....
adire tempests 15 inch are 150 apeice, i run one and im giving it 300 watts and its LOUD! loud enough to break the roof rack off my blazer
i wouldnt go w/ mtx.... they are a label brand which means everyone and their mom will have the same thing u got.... no offense to the sub its not a bad sub but i know i got rid of my 2 12 kicker CVRs for 1 tempest... mainly cause everyone has kicker and also the tempest excursion @ 300 watts is amazing for 150 bux
Victor on 06/10/2005 05:02:20
Well I have never been able to put my finger on one sub till now.
It all depends on what kind of sound are you looking for..Do u want it Loud?? crisp clear?? or like most of other guys u looking for Loud and Clear??
Also most of the sound depends on installation and enclosure selection.
When it comes to products within a price range there is not much difference between the subs falling into that range.
Unless and until u wanna compete in sound-off's ( thats the nly place where the numbers matter ), other than that which ever one you pick will not make a big difference. cause only in sound competitions every smallest detail matters.
I would personally go for a sub with moderate SPL and really good amount of Clarity. I would look for a Higher sensitivity number ( many manufacturers have different parameters to measure those, so u gotta be aware ).
Unless you are not into some serious SPL stuff u wont have to look at things like higher Xmax etc, or cone surface area etc.
Some new Kenwood Excelon, Alpine type X , Polk MOMO, Blaupunkt Velocity, RE, Adire, DD and few others make excellent subs with a mix of SPL and SQ,
Also its difficult to point out a particular sub cause its not all about money 500$$$, but it depends a lot on what kind of amp u got, what kind of setup u desire, the type of music u hear initiates the kind of enclosure u choose, kind of space available.. etc..
So when someone asks me, "What is the best sub I can buy in $$$??" All I got to say Is , "Dude the best one I have seen is a smaller working model of the US Navy Sub(marine), kids love to play with it."
lol.. sorry if i am being mean, but i guess u get my point.
Victor..
MrBrownstone on 06/10/2005 14:44:40
I have to side with Victor...
90% of this game is installation, 10% is the equipment. There isn't one product or manufacturer that is best at anything. There may be cost efficacy, but no best.
Here's a link to a post by one of the most biased car audio enthusiasts of all time:
http://p205.ezboard.com/fcaraudioknowledgefrm7.showMessage?topicID=16.topic
That link should help you understand the buying decision. Although the post is older, still, it's written with the idea of saving you money. To answer your question, below is a list of about a bazillion subs that are worth your money. Trust me, it's not a complete list, just 30 or so woofers that'll perform equally.
In a nutshell, 20 'manufacturers' (or should we say marketing companies) use the same builder, so their woofers are similar quality and quality control.
I've had 25 different models sound identically flawless in my vehicles over (gulp) 17 years. Basically, it comes down to installation, how much power you are going to use, and the most important thing, WHAT YOU ARE USING THEM FOR.
When competing in DB DRAG or the like, the huge magnet, huge cone area, high power handling subs are your best bet. When looking for good quality sound, small to midsize magnet woofers are usually the sub of choice.
I don't want to make the comparison that magnet size means anything, just that typically, if a manufacturer is trying to impress you with the size of magnets, the sturdiness of the basket, or the power handling, you are not purchasing any more quality of sound--just power handling. Some suggestions for a total of ~$500 on Great sounding woofers...provided you install them correctly (box and the rest of the system)
A/D/S all models (more power, more expense)
Alpine SWS
Alpine SWR (more power handling, sim sound)
Alumapro Alusonic EX series and above (more power/expense)
Audiobahn AlumQ series (although chrome is ridiculous)
Boston Acoustic G2 series (anything higher more power)
CDT Audio CL Series and above (just more power, more expense)
DEI Midlevel or higher
Diamond Audio (all models, just more expensive more power)
Eclipse (MP/ME)
Focal (MP/ME)
Image Dynamics (MP/ME)
Infinity(except the bottom of the barrel) MP/ME
JL Audio W3 series or higher (MP/ME)
Kicker, although annoying Square subs (MP/ME)
MB Quartgate PWE Series (although a little pricey)
Memphis MC series
MMATS all makes ((MP/ME)
MTX 7500 series or better (MP/ME)
Polk most models (MP/ME)
Rockford Quartgate (except bottom of barrel) (MP/ME)
See my problem in making a recommendation? When you decide which way you are going let us know what factors into your decision.
Victor on 06/10/2005 15:33:47
Wow Mr.B .. thats a link to your own write-up..hehehehe
By the way I Agree cent percent with every single word you have written there..
Also about installation, With an extraordinary install one can make the ordinary equipment sound excellent, and excellent equipment can sound crap with a poor install.
When people bash brand names saying that "they sound crap" or they are not loud enough" and things like that, what they actually do is reveal their incompetence at installing and lack of understanding or car acoustics.
With just a bunch of Real manufacturers you can expect more than a bit of similarity between many brands and products, Just a bit of change in the looks of a Speaker or some minor tweaking in the specs will not make a speaker sound WAY better then the other.
The worst part is when the company tries to back up their product in comparison to others by writing ****ty articles and expalnations. They do nothing but mis-guide for their own motives. There is nothing wrong in this cause they are doing business, but as a consumer this awareness ire really necessary to stop you from being fooled.
I guess thats enuf of it now.. lol.. i can go on and on about this,,
Victor..
P.s. :- Mr.B seems you have run out of humor.. come on ol' man we havent had a good laugh in this forum since long.. throw in some of ur humorous jokes..
lol..hehehehehehe.. just the thought of you putting up a joke makes me laugh.. I cant imagine whats gonna follow..hehe
MrBrownstone on 06/10/2005 16:19:04
sent you a club mail. You would not believe....
Victor on 06/10/2005 16:31:12
dunno am not able to open the club mail.. why dont u send it to info@victorexports.com
lessismorespl on 06/10/2005 19:44:33
I have to agree w/ both of you. You really can't say one sub is better than another, it all depends on what you are trying to get out of your system. also, installation is the most important part of any system. When I bought my W3's, people all said they sound great but are not loud.....I'm hitting 142+ dB's. I built an enclosure to give me the best possible SPL w/out losing much in SQ. Any higher than 142 it begins to sound sloppy.
I have to disagree w/ the statement of not buying a sub b/c everyone else has them. The MTX 7500, 8500, and 9500 are excellent subs.....1 MTX 9500 15 in a handmade ported enclosure was hitting 150+ dB's and still held it's composure. If you go to dB Drags, almost everyone in sanction competition has Digital Designs.
This may be somewhat off topic, but I recently bought some CDT subs off ebay and they are some awesome sounding subs, especially for under $100 ea. So you can never judge or determine what sub is the best. It is all a matter of how well you build your enclosure, how well you tune your system, and the quality of installation. I can make a set of Pyramid subs sound great w/ a Legacy amp.
less
swez on 06/10/2005 20:53:45
Amazing! All the big hitters on this site agree on the same subject. What's that cost? PRICELESS !!!
Agreed with all comments as well. Install and setup optimizing makes a world of difference, no matter what gear we choose. As long as we use the equipment within design parameters provided by the mfg. (They should know... they specified the parameters)
Some guys can make a set of trash can lids sound good too. Tin or ABS plastic for the cone material you say??? Swez... have you lost all your marbles again? Rediculous argument... we all know trash can lids are not used for subs. (or maybe we could try?) With enough amp power, anything is possible.
Great posts guys! Mr. B. is now officially famous! (or should I say... infamous"?) Even in 2001.
Swez
lessismorespl on 06/11/2005 07:43:40
There are things you can debate, and things you can't. This is one of the ones you can't really debate on. Installation, which IMO includes building the enclosure, plays the biggest role in how a system will sound. Many of the retail chains want these cars in and out quickly, so there is not much time taken in detail, plus most try to push prefab enclosures, rather than build them(I do not think BB or CC will build an enclosure). There is no time taken to check over voltage, set the amps properly, etc... It took me a couple free hours at the shop just to get my rear deck speakers staged to my satisfaction, same w/ the fronts.
As for subwoofers, all subwoofers have one purpose, reproduce low freq sound. Some may do it better than others, some may be somewhat louder than others, the wattage ratings are different, but the bottom line is this: IF THE ENCLOSURE IS NOT RIGHT, THE SUBS WILL NOT PERFORM LIKE THEY COULD IN THE RIGHT ENCLOSURE!!!!
SAME W/ AMPS, IF THERE IS TOO MUCH RESISTANCE, THE SETTINGS ARE OFF A LITTLE, ETC... THAT AMP WILL NOT PERFORM AS IT SHOULD.
I see this several times a week, we bring the car in, change a few settings on the amp or crossovers and the whole sound of the system changes. Installation and detail to installationare what makes a system not only sound good, but perform like it should.
less
swez on 06/11/2005 10:05:50
Well said Less... ditto here!
Swez
Joeychocolates on 06/12/2005 13:42:05
would a 15" Resonant Engineering HC be to much? I want my car sounding loud...
or this off ebay?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=48613&item=5781401237&rd=1
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