Hi. I am upgrading my big 3 to 1/0 gauge wire (I know this is a little excessive...). My only question is about fusing from ALT to BAT. The factory fuse is 100A. I thought about putting the new wire through this fuse as well, but the whole connection looks so flimsy. So instead I bought a 140A circuit breaker. Is it fine to run the new wire through this fuse? Can I just discard the factory fuse and put both through the 140A breaker? Thanx a lot.
-Ian-
Replies (20)
swez on 06/8/2005 11:13:23
Am not familiar with Suzuki vehicles, but it does seem "unusual" to have a fuse between the ALT & BAT. However, if the ALT is rated at 100A max output, best to remain at the same fuse value with the stock ALT. (Bat and loads like amps and such ...yes!)
If you elected to upgrade the ALT to a larger output version, the fuse to used, would be whatever the ALT's max rated output is. If the stock fuse blows, you'll get a warning light or see a change in the voltmeter gage. (it will drop to 12 volts and go lower with driving)
Swez
PS Fuses are most helpful to prevent excess current draw on a given circuit and the lines that feed them. The 1/0 gage is overkill IMHO, unless you plan to do some major electrical upgrades like ALT, BAT and drawing >200A of current. That size wire may be very difficult to install as well. It's as thick as most mens' thumbs. hehe
MrBrownstone on 06/8/2005 14:35:03
It's a good idea to have a fuse between the battery and any electronics that you have. Having one between the alt and battery is peculiar, but generally, they put them there for a reason.
As far as regular fusing, it's best to have a fuse for every piece of equipment, or at least every time you step down in wire size.
Upgrading the 100A fuse to a 140 circuit breaker probably won't have much negative effect on your car's system...although if it's new, there might be some warranty considerations to think about.
When you upgrade the alternator, however, that'll pretty much void it anyway, so why not just upgrade it now.
cybersailor420 on 06/8/2005 15:14:13
Thanx for the help guys. I would love to upgrade my alternator, but no one has been able to help me with finding one that will fit my car. My other options are having a bracket fabricated for a generic alternator, or having mine rewound to increase output. Both of these options are too costly for me at the time.
I recently put an Optima Yellow Top battery in my car (750 CCA). I would have gotten a bigger one, but i can't find any down here in the Virgin Islands, and I can't ship them here myself. If you look at the post from a few weeks ago about 'current setups,' you will see that I definitely need an alternator upgrade.
Well, I guess I am going to just run the old and new wire from my alternator to my battery through the 140A circuit breaker, unless anyone has any serious warnings about this.
thanx again.
-Ian-
swez on 06/8/2005 21:41:05
I would suggest running a breaker or fuse between the BAT and your amps, based on the wire gage used. That way, if the amplifiers draw excessive current or the main power lead develps a short, your BAT & ALT are protected. If you have a power feed wire that can carry 140A safely, use the breaker there. Here's a wiring chart to help you determine the wire gage needed for a 140A breaker. (looks like #2 wire is good, a #4 (depending on wire length) may be pushing your luck.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t1
However, if you have a 100A ALT, and fuse it at 140 and develop a large current surge, the ALT will fry befor the breaker trips. If you have a 100A fuse there now, go the same route for now.
Also a good DIY read: A good overview on charging systems and power demands of amplifiers,
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t10
Swez
swez on 06/8/2005 21:43:56
Would you mind running a list of all audio gear used in that Vitara to date. Please include:
1. Make and model of all amps
2. Max amperage draw per amp
3. Max rating of your ALT
Thanks... that will help a lot,
Swez
lessismorespl on 06/9/2005 08:00:49
In many of the newer vehicles, the wire from the alt goes to a fuse box which is a relay for many of the larger fuses, the wire is connected to one side of a fuse and then the other side gioes to the battery. On my Ford, it is a 175 amp fuse. I used 4ga in my Big 3 and just ran the wire parallel w/ my factory wiring, then where the wire goes from the fuse relay to the battery, I added an extra ANL 100 fuse. The rule of thumb on for fuse ratings for the big 3 are:
4ga 100-150 amp
2ga 150-200 amp
0/1 ga 200-250 amp
Remember, it is safest to run the wire parallel w/ the factory wiring, also, use good ring terminals and change the ring terminals on the factory wiring also, make sure all your connections are clean and secure them well. It has been said that just by cleaning and replacing the old ring terminals used on the factory wiring has helped lower over-all resistance and improve voltage(I will have to do some tests), but it makes sense.
If you have any questions on the Big 3, just let me know, I have been testing and installing Big 3's for over 7 years now.
less
cybersailor420 on 06/9/2005 16:49:31
Car:
2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara
In-Dash:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860
Audio Control Epic-160
Speakers:
(16) Pyle PDMR5 5.25" Midrange
(4) Pyle PDMW6 6.5" Midwoofer
(2) Pyle PPA8 8" Woofer
(4) Power Acoustik Tweeter
(6) Pyle PDBT18 3.75" Bullet Horn Tweeter
Subwoofers:
(2) 2004 series 15" Kicker L7
Enclosure:
custom box, 5.0 cu.ft. / sub, slot vent, tuned @ 33.5Hz
Amplifiers:
(2) Kicker SX650.1 Digital (best investment ever!)
(3) Phoenix Digital PD-394 1000w, 4 Channel
Capacitor:
Alumapro 5 Farad (used for SX650.1's)
Wiring:
Knuconceptz 1/0 ga. Power & Ground, 4 ga. to amps
Knuconceptz 12 ga. & 16 ga. Speaker wire
Stinger Hyper Series RCA interconnects
Battery:
Optima Yellow Top 750 CCA
Accessories:
12.1" flip-down monitor w/ Xbox
Blue accent lights (interior)
Red L.E.D under-car lights and washer nozzle lights
As far as the max output of my alternator, I am not sure how to check that. It is the stock alternator, which runs through a 100A fuse before going to the battery. That's all I know about it, except that it's definitely not enough ;)
swez on 06/11/2005 22:08:26
I'll bet it's not going to cover the sub amp current draw at all well.
You can have your ALT & BAT check out for performance at most good autoparts stores. They will give you a free test on ALT output at idle and say 2,000 RPM's. That will tell you what you have now in real time. Can also call a dealership and ask what stock ALT ratings are on that vehicle package.
My guess, you really need a custom ALT to meet the power demands of the Kicker amps. Each of those can pull 45-50A each. The 4 channels is pretty modest as far as power needs go, maybe 35A at full output. So, figure a 200A ALT will get the job done.
Nice setup ya got there,
Swez
PS Does that 5 Farad Cap help at all? If not, sell it for best $$ you can get and help pay for the new ALT. Same with extra bulk speakers noted. About $250.00 USD for a 200A ALT off E-bay or maybe try a local ALT builders' shop and get a good warrantee!
lessismorespl on 06/11/2005 22:33:14
I'm not sure of the alt rating, but it is definately not over 90 amps. That cap will do very little, about the only thing it will help with is shortening the life of your alt. The Big 3 will help lower your resistance and improve your overall voltage, but will not help you w/ the current draw.....especially w/ that equipment.
Try to find a good H/O alt. I think 170 is about as big as they make them for your type of vehicle. HO and Ohio make bigger ones, but they will run you $500+ You can probably get a 170 amp, which will give you 90 amps on idle for about $200 or less, or get it built at a local shop for $150-$200, and they may be able to get you close to 200 amps. Sell the cap, the Alumapro caps are real popular, you can probably get a good price for it on eBay.
less
P.S. If you decide to go w/ the H/O alt, you might as well do the Big 3 b/c you will have to upgrade your wiring anyway.
less
cybersailor420 on 07/14/2005 17:08:26
Sorry I haven't responded to this in a while. I am rearranging my setup some and had a question in response to Less's last post about getting rid of my cap. I am putting in a second Optima Yellowtop 750 CCA battery in the back. I just wanted to double check that you really think I should get rid of my 5 Farad Alumapro cap. I currently have it out and am not noticing too much of a difference, but i'm not 100% sure. I trust your opinion. Thank you.
-Ian-
P.S. I talked to Ohio Generators about getting a bigger alternator for my car... They have a 170A bolt on alternator for my car, but it's $650!!! Not quite in my budget right now... Please let me know if you guys know of anything else, or an easy way to make a more generica HO alternator fit in my car.
lessismorespl on 07/14/2005 19:31:51
They are high, several years ago they were much less, but w/ dB Drag becoming so popular, they jumped the price up, they are a big sponsor of the World Finals and all. If you can find a shop that builds alts, they usually charge $1 per amp plus a little for parts and labor. I had a 170 amp, 90 amp on idle built for just over $200. Here is a place that may be somewhat cheaper:
http://www.motorcityreman.com/
Swez, are you familar w/ them, they on Gratiot in Eastpoint, MI. That is down your way.
Anyway, drop them a email and they usually get right back to you, to avoid the email tag game, send them the year, make, model, and engine your car has, in detail. I have used their alts before and they are very well built and high quality products.
As for the cap, I would almost bet you would notice more stable voltage w/ the Big 3 upgrade. Do you have a voltage gauge? In most cases, a cap just gives the alt another thing to charge in the electrical chain, what you could do, if you decide to get another alt, is run both. Use the OEM strictly for the vehicle's components, and run the H/O w/ a voltage regulator and battery isolator to the trunk for your amps. You could run it to the second Yellow Top and then the cap may give you some benefit, moreso than how it is being used now. Myself, and I'm sure a few others on here could walk you through the process of installation, and still do a Big 3 upgrade under the hood, it will help your overall voltage all around.
less
swez on 07/14/2005 20:25:43
Not familiar with that company Less. They are about 45 mile away from my locale.
I think Chronos got a 200A ALT off Ebay. He said it works well for his system and was about $200.00 plus s/h. Don't recall who the seller was. Am sure it's buried in posts dated back to last fall or so.
Swez
lessismorespl on 07/14/2005 21:07:59
One reason H/O and Ohio are so high, is b/c of how they rate @ idle. There are many alts on the market for reasonable prices, however they are rated at peak out output, which is 2000+ RPM's. H/O, Irragi, Ohio, and Motorcity Reman all have 90-100 amp outputs @ idle. When I had my 170 built, I made sure they did it so it produced a min. of 80 amps on idle. I'm only familar w/ these makes, so others may have similar features. Just do your research into what is available to you, and figure what will fit into your budget.
less
cybersailor420 on 07/15/2005 12:17:48
Hi. Thanx for the responses. I have already done my big 3 upgrade with 1/0. I have a yellow top upfront already, and am going to put another one in the back. I was just wondering if I should still use the capacitor on top of the 2nd battery. I would like to think it would help some, but I'm just not sure.
Also, as far as the alternators go, you guys keep mentioning these cheap alternators bought off ebay or something... you have to remember that my car is not a Ford or GM or a generic US model. No one mass produces HO alternators for Suzukis.
Thanx again,
-Ian-
lessismorespl on 07/15/2005 19:13:48
Actually, most places will build one, just about all of the manufacturers mentioned will build one for almost any car.
cybersailor420 on 07/17/2005 11:23:30
I emailed that company that you suggested, and they said they have nothing for my car. I guess if I really want a bigger alternator for my car, I'm gonna have to round up some extra cash...
Anyways, I still haven't gotten a solid response on this capacitor issue. I have a competition on the 23rd, so I'm just trying to decide whether or not to use the cap a.s.a.p.
Thanx,
-Ian-
lessismorespl on 07/17/2005 12:15:37
In a competition, it really would not make much difference if you used it or not, a 30 sec. burst would most likely not drain the cap and by the next round it would easily be recharged to full.
As for getting a rewind alt, they are fairly inexspensive, the hard part is finding a shop that will do it, and do it right. There is a place in Flint, MI. called Superstarters, they build alts for almost any make or model. I had my 170A built there, it was like $200 complete w/ voltage regulator, it would have only been $165 w/out the regulator. Check your local area, almost every major city has some type of alt/starter shop that can rewind and/or build alts. That would be a good place to start, however, do not mention you are using it for car audio, make up some excuse or logical reason why you need the higher output, most places will charge you a little more than usual b/c it is for car audio. Here is another place, it is in Tenn. I think, they build good alts, saw their store on eBay and decided to do some research, the people I talked to said their products are very high quality and the price is very reasonable.
DB Electrical
email: robtipton@comcast.net
Ph # : 800-753-2242
lessismorespl on 07/18/2005 12:16:45
I just contacted them and they are very reasonable. Thyey can do a 200 amp for my car for $200 shipped. All they need is a make, model, and vin # and they will let you know if they can build one
less
cybersailor420 on 07/18/2005 14:58:33
Hey. Thanx for the info. I gave them a call, but they don't do anything for my car either. I'm really starting to wish I had gotten a Ford or something. Also, no one down here in the Virgin Islands rebuilds alternators for high output; i've tried everywhere.
-Ian-
lessismorespl on 07/18/2005 16:32:34
Yes, being in the Virgin Islands does change things a little. I know several manufacturers are making high output alts for Honda, Mazda, and Toyota. I'm sure over time they will make them for Suzuki also, Suzuki's line of vehicles is becoming very popular here. Seeing more and more of them on the roads.
less
-Ian-
Replies (20)
swez on 06/8/2005 11:13:23
Am not familiar with Suzuki vehicles, but it does seem "unusual" to have a fuse between the ALT & BAT. However, if the ALT is rated at 100A max output, best to remain at the same fuse value with the stock ALT. (Bat and loads like amps and such ...yes!)
If you elected to upgrade the ALT to a larger output version, the fuse to used, would be whatever the ALT's max rated output is. If the stock fuse blows, you'll get a warning light or see a change in the voltmeter gage. (it will drop to 12 volts and go lower with driving)
Swez
PS Fuses are most helpful to prevent excess current draw on a given circuit and the lines that feed them. The 1/0 gage is overkill IMHO, unless you plan to do some major electrical upgrades like ALT, BAT and drawing >200A of current. That size wire may be very difficult to install as well. It's as thick as most mens' thumbs. hehe
MrBrownstone on 06/8/2005 14:35:03
It's a good idea to have a fuse between the battery and any electronics that you have. Having one between the alt and battery is peculiar, but generally, they put them there for a reason.
As far as regular fusing, it's best to have a fuse for every piece of equipment, or at least every time you step down in wire size.
Upgrading the 100A fuse to a 140 circuit breaker probably won't have much negative effect on your car's system...although if it's new, there might be some warranty considerations to think about.
When you upgrade the alternator, however, that'll pretty much void it anyway, so why not just upgrade it now.
cybersailor420 on 06/8/2005 15:14:13
Thanx for the help guys. I would love to upgrade my alternator, but no one has been able to help me with finding one that will fit my car. My other options are having a bracket fabricated for a generic alternator, or having mine rewound to increase output. Both of these options are too costly for me at the time.
I recently put an Optima Yellow Top battery in my car (750 CCA). I would have gotten a bigger one, but i can't find any down here in the Virgin Islands, and I can't ship them here myself. If you look at the post from a few weeks ago about 'current setups,' you will see that I definitely need an alternator upgrade.
Well, I guess I am going to just run the old and new wire from my alternator to my battery through the 140A circuit breaker, unless anyone has any serious warnings about this.
thanx again.
-Ian-
swez on 06/8/2005 21:41:05
I would suggest running a breaker or fuse between the BAT and your amps, based on the wire gage used. That way, if the amplifiers draw excessive current or the main power lead develps a short, your BAT & ALT are protected. If you have a power feed wire that can carry 140A safely, use the breaker there. Here's a wiring chart to help you determine the wire gage needed for a 140A breaker. (looks like #2 wire is good, a #4 (depending on wire length) may be pushing your luck.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t1
However, if you have a 100A ALT, and fuse it at 140 and develop a large current surge, the ALT will fry befor the breaker trips. If you have a 100A fuse there now, go the same route for now.
Also a good DIY read: A good overview on charging systems and power demands of amplifiers,
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t10
Swez
swez on 06/8/2005 21:43:56
Would you mind running a list of all audio gear used in that Vitara to date. Please include:
1. Make and model of all amps
2. Max amperage draw per amp
3. Max rating of your ALT
Thanks... that will help a lot,
Swez
lessismorespl on 06/9/2005 08:00:49
In many of the newer vehicles, the wire from the alt goes to a fuse box which is a relay for many of the larger fuses, the wire is connected to one side of a fuse and then the other side gioes to the battery. On my Ford, it is a 175 amp fuse. I used 4ga in my Big 3 and just ran the wire parallel w/ my factory wiring, then where the wire goes from the fuse relay to the battery, I added an extra ANL 100 fuse. The rule of thumb on for fuse ratings for the big 3 are:
4ga 100-150 amp
2ga 150-200 amp
0/1 ga 200-250 amp
Remember, it is safest to run the wire parallel w/ the factory wiring, also, use good ring terminals and change the ring terminals on the factory wiring also, make sure all your connections are clean and secure them well. It has been said that just by cleaning and replacing the old ring terminals used on the factory wiring has helped lower over-all resistance and improve voltage(I will have to do some tests), but it makes sense.
If you have any questions on the Big 3, just let me know, I have been testing and installing Big 3's for over 7 years now.
less
cybersailor420 on 06/9/2005 16:49:31
Car:
2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara
In-Dash:
Pioneer Premier DEH-P860
Audio Control Epic-160
Speakers:
(16) Pyle PDMR5 5.25" Midrange
(4) Pyle PDMW6 6.5" Midwoofer
(2) Pyle PPA8 8" Woofer
(4) Power Acoustik Tweeter
(6) Pyle PDBT18 3.75" Bullet Horn Tweeter
Subwoofers:
(2) 2004 series 15" Kicker L7
Enclosure:
custom box, 5.0 cu.ft. / sub, slot vent, tuned @ 33.5Hz
Amplifiers:
(2) Kicker SX650.1 Digital (best investment ever!)
(3) Phoenix Digital PD-394 1000w, 4 Channel
Capacitor:
Alumapro 5 Farad (used for SX650.1's)
Wiring:
Knuconceptz 1/0 ga. Power & Ground, 4 ga. to amps
Knuconceptz 12 ga. & 16 ga. Speaker wire
Stinger Hyper Series RCA interconnects
Battery:
Optima Yellow Top 750 CCA
Accessories:
12.1" flip-down monitor w/ Xbox
Blue accent lights (interior)
Red L.E.D under-car lights and washer nozzle lights
As far as the max output of my alternator, I am not sure how to check that. It is the stock alternator, which runs through a 100A fuse before going to the battery. That's all I know about it, except that it's definitely not enough ;)
swez on 06/11/2005 22:08:26
I'll bet it's not going to cover the sub amp current draw at all well.
You can have your ALT & BAT check out for performance at most good autoparts stores. They will give you a free test on ALT output at idle and say 2,000 RPM's. That will tell you what you have now in real time. Can also call a dealership and ask what stock ALT ratings are on that vehicle package.
My guess, you really need a custom ALT to meet the power demands of the Kicker amps. Each of those can pull 45-50A each. The 4 channels is pretty modest as far as power needs go, maybe 35A at full output. So, figure a 200A ALT will get the job done.
Nice setup ya got there,
Swez
PS Does that 5 Farad Cap help at all? If not, sell it for best $$ you can get and help pay for the new ALT. Same with extra bulk speakers noted. About $250.00 USD for a 200A ALT off E-bay or maybe try a local ALT builders' shop and get a good warrantee!
lessismorespl on 06/11/2005 22:33:14
I'm not sure of the alt rating, but it is definately not over 90 amps. That cap will do very little, about the only thing it will help with is shortening the life of your alt. The Big 3 will help lower your resistance and improve your overall voltage, but will not help you w/ the current draw.....especially w/ that equipment.
Try to find a good H/O alt. I think 170 is about as big as they make them for your type of vehicle. HO and Ohio make bigger ones, but they will run you $500+ You can probably get a 170 amp, which will give you 90 amps on idle for about $200 or less, or get it built at a local shop for $150-$200, and they may be able to get you close to 200 amps. Sell the cap, the Alumapro caps are real popular, you can probably get a good price for it on eBay.
less
P.S. If you decide to go w/ the H/O alt, you might as well do the Big 3 b/c you will have to upgrade your wiring anyway.
less
cybersailor420 on 07/14/2005 17:08:26
Sorry I haven't responded to this in a while. I am rearranging my setup some and had a question in response to Less's last post about getting rid of my cap. I am putting in a second Optima Yellowtop 750 CCA battery in the back. I just wanted to double check that you really think I should get rid of my 5 Farad Alumapro cap. I currently have it out and am not noticing too much of a difference, but i'm not 100% sure. I trust your opinion. Thank you.
-Ian-
P.S. I talked to Ohio Generators about getting a bigger alternator for my car... They have a 170A bolt on alternator for my car, but it's $650!!! Not quite in my budget right now... Please let me know if you guys know of anything else, or an easy way to make a more generica HO alternator fit in my car.
lessismorespl on 07/14/2005 19:31:51
They are high, several years ago they were much less, but w/ dB Drag becoming so popular, they jumped the price up, they are a big sponsor of the World Finals and all. If you can find a shop that builds alts, they usually charge $1 per amp plus a little for parts and labor. I had a 170 amp, 90 amp on idle built for just over $200. Here is a place that may be somewhat cheaper:
http://www.motorcityreman.com/
Swez, are you familar w/ them, they on Gratiot in Eastpoint, MI. That is down your way.
Anyway, drop them a email and they usually get right back to you, to avoid the email tag game, send them the year, make, model, and engine your car has, in detail. I have used their alts before and they are very well built and high quality products.
As for the cap, I would almost bet you would notice more stable voltage w/ the Big 3 upgrade. Do you have a voltage gauge? In most cases, a cap just gives the alt another thing to charge in the electrical chain, what you could do, if you decide to get another alt, is run both. Use the OEM strictly for the vehicle's components, and run the H/O w/ a voltage regulator and battery isolator to the trunk for your amps. You could run it to the second Yellow Top and then the cap may give you some benefit, moreso than how it is being used now. Myself, and I'm sure a few others on here could walk you through the process of installation, and still do a Big 3 upgrade under the hood, it will help your overall voltage all around.
less
swez on 07/14/2005 20:25:43
Not familiar with that company Less. They are about 45 mile away from my locale.
I think Chronos got a 200A ALT off Ebay. He said it works well for his system and was about $200.00 plus s/h. Don't recall who the seller was. Am sure it's buried in posts dated back to last fall or so.
Swez
lessismorespl on 07/14/2005 21:07:59
One reason H/O and Ohio are so high, is b/c of how they rate @ idle. There are many alts on the market for reasonable prices, however they are rated at peak out output, which is 2000+ RPM's. H/O, Irragi, Ohio, and Motorcity Reman all have 90-100 amp outputs @ idle. When I had my 170 built, I made sure they did it so it produced a min. of 80 amps on idle. I'm only familar w/ these makes, so others may have similar features. Just do your research into what is available to you, and figure what will fit into your budget.
less
cybersailor420 on 07/15/2005 12:17:48
Hi. Thanx for the responses. I have already done my big 3 upgrade with 1/0. I have a yellow top upfront already, and am going to put another one in the back. I was just wondering if I should still use the capacitor on top of the 2nd battery. I would like to think it would help some, but I'm just not sure.
Also, as far as the alternators go, you guys keep mentioning these cheap alternators bought off ebay or something... you have to remember that my car is not a Ford or GM or a generic US model. No one mass produces HO alternators for Suzukis.
Thanx again,
-Ian-
lessismorespl on 07/15/2005 19:13:48
Actually, most places will build one, just about all of the manufacturers mentioned will build one for almost any car.
cybersailor420 on 07/17/2005 11:23:30
I emailed that company that you suggested, and they said they have nothing for my car. I guess if I really want a bigger alternator for my car, I'm gonna have to round up some extra cash...
Anyways, I still haven't gotten a solid response on this capacitor issue. I have a competition on the 23rd, so I'm just trying to decide whether or not to use the cap a.s.a.p.
Thanx,
-Ian-
lessismorespl on 07/17/2005 12:15:37
In a competition, it really would not make much difference if you used it or not, a 30 sec. burst would most likely not drain the cap and by the next round it would easily be recharged to full.
As for getting a rewind alt, they are fairly inexspensive, the hard part is finding a shop that will do it, and do it right. There is a place in Flint, MI. called Superstarters, they build alts for almost any make or model. I had my 170A built there, it was like $200 complete w/ voltage regulator, it would have only been $165 w/out the regulator. Check your local area, almost every major city has some type of alt/starter shop that can rewind and/or build alts. That would be a good place to start, however, do not mention you are using it for car audio, make up some excuse or logical reason why you need the higher output, most places will charge you a little more than usual b/c it is for car audio. Here is another place, it is in Tenn. I think, they build good alts, saw their store on eBay and decided to do some research, the people I talked to said their products are very high quality and the price is very reasonable.
DB Electrical
email: robtipton@comcast.net
Ph # : 800-753-2242
lessismorespl on 07/18/2005 12:16:45
I just contacted them and they are very reasonable. Thyey can do a 200 amp for my car for $200 shipped. All they need is a make, model, and vin # and they will let you know if they can build one
less
cybersailor420 on 07/18/2005 14:58:33
Hey. Thanx for the info. I gave them a call, but they don't do anything for my car either. I'm really starting to wish I had gotten a Ford or something. Also, no one down here in the Virgin Islands rebuilds alternators for high output; i've tried everywhere.
-Ian-
lessismorespl on 07/18/2005 16:32:34
Yes, being in the Virgin Islands does change things a little. I know several manufacturers are making high output alts for Honda, Mazda, and Toyota. I'm sure over time they will make them for Suzuki also, Suzuki's line of vehicles is becoming very popular here. Seeing more and more of them on the roads.
less
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