Hi guys. You might remember that i installed my friends 2 10" Infinity 10.1D's. Well one sub was making a very loud rattiling noise when you opened the trunk. We took it out and the voice coil is totally seperated from the middle pole.
What could of caused that?
Theyre each in their own 1cuft sealed box(recommended) each wired in parallel to a Infinity 610A. I've never heard them distort and i dont believe they're being over powered. Could it be a manufactur defect, pushed passed limits, not enough break in period(a little over a week)? thanks
Replies (10)
ryan2 on 05/20/2005 20:30:58
I also dont think Infinity will cover it 1) bought both off ebay for $89 each 2) never printed receipt
swez on 05/20/2005 21:24:02
That one is often caused by over excursion, too much bass boost or poor assembly of the coil former to spider/cone. Did the coil actually separate from the spider? (ribbed orange pancake below the back of speaker cone?)
If yes, you can fix it yourself with a good 2 part epoxy, a small syringe and a hair dryer to rapid cure the epoxy. If you need some ideas, just hollar.
Swez
PS A pic or two would be most helpful here. Just to know exactly where the failure is.
ryan2 on 05/20/2005 22:03:59
I believe its the spider the separated from the coil. Here are two pics of the woofer.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/712302
swez on 05/20/2005 23:07:01
Yep, that's the coil former, separated brom the spider. The spider controls coil/cone excursion.
As noted before, the 2 part epoxy is your fix.
1. Mix up your 2 part epoxy, 50/50 mix, enough for ~1-2cc syringe
2. Get the syringe from a pharmacy... no needle required
3. Load the syring with pre-mixed epoxy
4. Squirt a bead of epoxy around the coil former base and surround
5. Align the coil/spider so they are in the neutral position (no coil former is showing) Might need a helper to hold the cone in proper position on this one
6. Allow the epoxy a few minutes to set up
7. Now, use the hair dryer to rapid cure the epoxy and help level it as well.
8. Allow the epoxy to fully cure a few hours before you try the woofer again
The key to this delicate operation is coil/spider alignment and using adequate (but not too much) epoxy to do the job. When heating the epoxy, it will liquify a bit and that helps in leveling the bead. Just turn the sub frequently as you fast cure it so that all seams seal and level properly.
Good luck,
Swez
PS If one has failed now, the other may fail later. This is a good indication that too much power is being used, too much bass boost applied or enclosure is a tad large for these subs.
ryan2 on 05/26/2005 00:09:25
So is this epoxy called 2 part epoxy or what? Is there a specefic brand or anything like that. Also can I get it at a local hardware store or like Menards or Home Depot? Thanks
swez on 05/26/2005 13:53:30
Yep, a good 2 part epoxy is fine. The one I use most comes in a quick set or normal setting formulation. These are in dual syringes. (resin/hardner) are in separate cartridges, but dispense equal parts with a single plunger.
1. Dispense equal parts Resin and hardner on a piece of cardbord or paper plate
2. Mix well with a tool of your choice
3. Load 1-2 cc's (ml) of mixture into a syringe (no needle required)
4. Apply as needed around the coil/spider assy
5. SEAT COIL/SPIDER IN PROPER LOCATION, ALL AROUND THE COIL
6. A small model paint brush is great for spreading the expoy evenly
7. Use a hair dryer on mid-heat, low air speed to quick cure the epoxy
8. AT ALL TIMES, MAKE SURE THE COIL AND SPIDER ARE IN PROPER ALIGNMENT LOCATIONS
That should do it. You can do a 2nd light coat if you desire. Two thin coats are better than 1 thick coat.
Good luck,
Swez
ryan2 on 05/30/2005 22:40:10
We just applied two coats of the epoxy tonight, so we plan on putting the sub in wed. to see if it worked. Thanks for the help swez
swez on 05/31/2005 10:14:45
Hope it works out for ya there Ryan. Most epoxies cure to a usable strength in a few hours. If we use the hair dryer approach, it can be tested in 2 hours or so.
Let us know how it turned out OK?
Swez
ryan2 on 06/1/2005 22:52:15
We put the sub in today and it works fine. Thanks Swez. But Infinity needs to put padding on the back of the cone to get rid of lead slap. It really bad on these subs when you have it turned up. Tonight i put velcro the fury side on the one sub to get rid of it and it helped so we just need to take the other sub out and do that one.
swez on 06/1/2005 23:13:30
Glad it worked out for you. Check out that other sub as well. It may be showing signs of fatigue at the coil/spider seal as well.
Seems like you may be getting a tad bit too much X-max on the subs here. Most 10's are well suited for slightly smaller enclosures and if we use even a small amount of bass boost off the amp or HU, (+3 dB is more than good) over excursion is very likely at rated power.
Swez
What could of caused that?
Theyre each in their own 1cuft sealed box(recommended) each wired in parallel to a Infinity 610A. I've never heard them distort and i dont believe they're being over powered. Could it be a manufactur defect, pushed passed limits, not enough break in period(a little over a week)? thanks
Replies (10)
ryan2 on 05/20/2005 20:30:58
I also dont think Infinity will cover it 1) bought both off ebay for $89 each 2) never printed receipt
swez on 05/20/2005 21:24:02
That one is often caused by over excursion, too much bass boost or poor assembly of the coil former to spider/cone. Did the coil actually separate from the spider? (ribbed orange pancake below the back of speaker cone?)
If yes, you can fix it yourself with a good 2 part epoxy, a small syringe and a hair dryer to rapid cure the epoxy. If you need some ideas, just hollar.
Swez
PS A pic or two would be most helpful here. Just to know exactly where the failure is.
ryan2 on 05/20/2005 22:03:59
I believe its the spider the separated from the coil. Here are two pics of the woofer.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/712302
swez on 05/20/2005 23:07:01
Yep, that's the coil former, separated brom the spider. The spider controls coil/cone excursion.
As noted before, the 2 part epoxy is your fix.
1. Mix up your 2 part epoxy, 50/50 mix, enough for ~1-2cc syringe
2. Get the syringe from a pharmacy... no needle required
3. Load the syring with pre-mixed epoxy
4. Squirt a bead of epoxy around the coil former base and surround
5. Align the coil/spider so they are in the neutral position (no coil former is showing) Might need a helper to hold the cone in proper position on this one
6. Allow the epoxy a few minutes to set up
7. Now, use the hair dryer to rapid cure the epoxy and help level it as well.
8. Allow the epoxy to fully cure a few hours before you try the woofer again
The key to this delicate operation is coil/spider alignment and using adequate (but not too much) epoxy to do the job. When heating the epoxy, it will liquify a bit and that helps in leveling the bead. Just turn the sub frequently as you fast cure it so that all seams seal and level properly.
Good luck,
Swez
PS If one has failed now, the other may fail later. This is a good indication that too much power is being used, too much bass boost applied or enclosure is a tad large for these subs.
ryan2 on 05/26/2005 00:09:25
So is this epoxy called 2 part epoxy or what? Is there a specefic brand or anything like that. Also can I get it at a local hardware store or like Menards or Home Depot? Thanks
swez on 05/26/2005 13:53:30
Yep, a good 2 part epoxy is fine. The one I use most comes in a quick set or normal setting formulation. These are in dual syringes. (resin/hardner) are in separate cartridges, but dispense equal parts with a single plunger.
1. Dispense equal parts Resin and hardner on a piece of cardbord or paper plate
2. Mix well with a tool of your choice
3. Load 1-2 cc's (ml) of mixture into a syringe (no needle required)
4. Apply as needed around the coil/spider assy
5. SEAT COIL/SPIDER IN PROPER LOCATION, ALL AROUND THE COIL
6. A small model paint brush is great for spreading the expoy evenly
7. Use a hair dryer on mid-heat, low air speed to quick cure the epoxy
8. AT ALL TIMES, MAKE SURE THE COIL AND SPIDER ARE IN PROPER ALIGNMENT LOCATIONS
That should do it. You can do a 2nd light coat if you desire. Two thin coats are better than 1 thick coat.
Good luck,
Swez
ryan2 on 05/30/2005 22:40:10
We just applied two coats of the epoxy tonight, so we plan on putting the sub in wed. to see if it worked. Thanks for the help swez
swez on 05/31/2005 10:14:45
Hope it works out for ya there Ryan. Most epoxies cure to a usable strength in a few hours. If we use the hair dryer approach, it can be tested in 2 hours or so.
Let us know how it turned out OK?
Swez
ryan2 on 06/1/2005 22:52:15
We put the sub in today and it works fine. Thanks Swez. But Infinity needs to put padding on the back of the cone to get rid of lead slap. It really bad on these subs when you have it turned up. Tonight i put velcro the fury side on the one sub to get rid of it and it helped so we just need to take the other sub out and do that one.
swez on 06/1/2005 23:13:30
Glad it worked out for you. Check out that other sub as well. It may be showing signs of fatigue at the coil/spider seal as well.
Seems like you may be getting a tad bit too much X-max on the subs here. Most 10's are well suited for slightly smaller enclosures and if we use even a small amount of bass boost off the amp or HU, (+3 dB is more than good) over excursion is very likely at rated power.
Swez
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