i have a 1985 toyota celica gt with 2 10's kenwoods in a sealed box with a 1000 watt kenwood amp, half of my trunk is dymated. i wanna know the best way to make it sound clearer and louder bass so heads turn, with out the ralten, the head unit is a jvc mp3 headunit with dual preamp out puts plus sub out put. the subs r hooked up to the sub output. anyone have any ideas out there to help me out, i start school at syntec in july, wanna be bumpin clearer before then
holla back
Replies (8)
lessismorespl on 05/17/2005 13:40:59
There is much more to making the car sound more solid than just Dynamat. Dynamat reinforces the panels, but you must remember that there are many other factors and many other areas that can create the infamous rattle.
The license plate is usually the biggest offender, also, the bumper guard can be notorious for rattles.
One of the first things you need to do is listen for where the rattles come from. When your trunk is closed, more often than not the rattles come from components outside your car, not inside the trunk. Once you locate the rattles, you can isolate each area for the best way to stop them.
On my 03 Taurus, I took the plastic clips that hold the bumper cover on at the bottom and used some bolts and teflon lock nuts to tighten it down, this solved the problem there and cost me less than $3.
Between the bumper guard and the bumper itself, I used expanding foam to add some cushion between the two. this cost less than $3 also.
Inside the trunk I used silicone on many of the welds and edges which made different areas of the trunk connect, on the trunk lid I used the silicone on all the braces. I then used sound dampening over the entire lid then used a spray on coating. It adds weight to the trunk lid, but it stopped the rattles(more like vibration) there.
On the very bottom of the bumper cover I used sound dampening to reinforce it so it would not vibrate. I also used the roll-on/spray-on sound dampening inside my spare tire well, and on the entire bottom of the trunk. I used sound dampening on the whell wells, then coated them w/ spray-on liner also.
For my license plate, I used a small piece of sound dampening on the back and then used self-tapping screws to tighten it down. If you do not use all 4 screws, then it will not do much good.
Here is some more insight on trunk rattles:
http://www.installer.com/tech/rattles.html
Hope this helps.
compvr15s on 05/17/2005 13:43:48
main thing to do is, while your system is running, go around the outside of your car and listen for rattles, license plate, mufler shield, tail light assemblies. things like that, for the license plate, i always just use a piece of two sided tape, unscrew the plate, put a piece at the top and bottom in the middle and then rescrew.... as for the mufler shield, its hard to say here, sometimes they are a pain, but you can usually find a way to shut them up... another problem may be your trunk rubber, the seal around the trunk may need to be replaced. any metal to metal touching will not sound good especially if there is a tiny space between the two.... orther than that, not much i can tell ya, all that usually fixes my rattling, have had some severe rattling too... its hard to get rid of all of it but you should be able to make is sound good and get heads turning, good luck
trunkisloud on 05/17/2005 17:38:17
i got mad rattles......91 caprice with 2 punch p3's in 5 cubes tuned at 24 hz....the rear quarter panels are separating from flexing and starting to rattle like a bag of nickels
asplundher on 05/17/2005 20:47:46
One way to get rid of rattles is to keep the air moving from the woofers from moving into the trunk. Basically have the woofers fire right into the cabin. Kinda like a free air system but, with a box attached. The main drawback is all setups won't be able to use it. If the space doesn't allow it or the subs must face the rear, then you won't be able to do it.
At one time I hade a 81' Buick Park Ave. Instead of going with 12's or bigger like most of the fellas round the way; I decided on 10's. Reason is that there was just enough space for them to fit flush against the back seat and fire into the seating area. There was no or at least very minimal sound going back into the trunk. Never had a rattle problem although back then we didn't go for the higher spl's that they now do.
You don't see many systems done like that anymore because everyone is on that "facing-rear" kick, which does work for some but, not all. I even had a buddy who often made custom side panels that attached to the box in installs, that kept the sound focused forward and away from adjacent panels. It looked kinda weird but it worked.
lessismorespl on 05/18/2005 19:36:54
It is not about a fad or "kick" when it comes to aiming the subwoofers. Here is a better explanation.
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming2.html
Aiming the subs plays a major role in how the subs sound when it comes to SQ, SPL it makes no difference how the subs sound b/c it is all about pressure levels, but for SQ aiming plays a major role.
This also includes the main speakers, many people believe b/c the factory placed the speakers where they did, it is the best place for SQ, but that is far from true. Even the slightest adjustments to change the direction and reflection of the speakers can be an improvement, or a big mistake. It took me hours to find the perfect place for my eXcelons in the rear deck, I tried different angles, aiming in different directions, etc.. aiming the subwoofers is just as important.
As for getting the rattles out, the only time I ever stopped all the rattles was in a MECA car and that car's interior was completely stripped and a 2 layers of Durolner was sprayed throughout, the doors were filled w/ expanding foam, as were any other empty holes and spaces, the undercarriage was also sprayed w/ Duroliner, and the trunk was lined and reinforced w/ several layers of sound dampening.
To me, this is too much work for an everyday driver. My car has very few rattles, partly b/c I used sound dampening, but mostly b/c of the aiming of the enclosure, how the enclosure was built & tuned, and b/c I ported my rear deck. This was some work also, but mostly brain work due to calculations, but the effort was worth every hour b/c the car has excellent SQ even at levels of 140+ dB's.
asplundher on 05/18/2005 19:48:13
I didn't say it was a fad. What I said is "which does work for some but, not all". The thing is some people use it because they see others doing it when they actually shouldn't. It all depends on the vehicle. It was merely a suggestion on the same concept that you stated that you used (directed firing/aiming).
acid on 05/19/2005 03:17:28
hey guys thankx alot, for the info, if anyone is from the ny or nj area email me djaciddrive@aol.com, i need a really good idea for a new system for my car, i wanna do something extremly custom, if there are any good installers out there, that wanna work on a project with me get at me, djaciddrive@aol.com
lessismorespl on 05/19/2005 07:41:54
It depends on what part of NY you are from, but I know 3 very good installers from the NYC area I met while competing. They do excellent glass work and build great enclosures. They also have all the install toys to scope and test your vehicle for the best possible SQ. If you are interested in where their shops are, email me at admin@lessismorespl.com.
"You don't see many systems done like that anymore because everyone is on that "facing-rear" kick, which does work for some but, not all." It may have been taken in the wrong way. In my years of installing, I have seen very few vehicles benefit from facing the subs to the front, or cabin, of the vehicle, w/ the exception of SPL vehicles which benefit greatly from this. I did use this method in my old 97 Saturn SL2 and the results were nice, but it also depends on the enclosure, the subs, and how the system is tuned.
holla back
Replies (8)
lessismorespl on 05/17/2005 13:40:59
There is much more to making the car sound more solid than just Dynamat. Dynamat reinforces the panels, but you must remember that there are many other factors and many other areas that can create the infamous rattle.
The license plate is usually the biggest offender, also, the bumper guard can be notorious for rattles.
One of the first things you need to do is listen for where the rattles come from. When your trunk is closed, more often than not the rattles come from components outside your car, not inside the trunk. Once you locate the rattles, you can isolate each area for the best way to stop them.
On my 03 Taurus, I took the plastic clips that hold the bumper cover on at the bottom and used some bolts and teflon lock nuts to tighten it down, this solved the problem there and cost me less than $3.
Between the bumper guard and the bumper itself, I used expanding foam to add some cushion between the two. this cost less than $3 also.
Inside the trunk I used silicone on many of the welds and edges which made different areas of the trunk connect, on the trunk lid I used the silicone on all the braces. I then used sound dampening over the entire lid then used a spray on coating. It adds weight to the trunk lid, but it stopped the rattles(more like vibration) there.
On the very bottom of the bumper cover I used sound dampening to reinforce it so it would not vibrate. I also used the roll-on/spray-on sound dampening inside my spare tire well, and on the entire bottom of the trunk. I used sound dampening on the whell wells, then coated them w/ spray-on liner also.
For my license plate, I used a small piece of sound dampening on the back and then used self-tapping screws to tighten it down. If you do not use all 4 screws, then it will not do much good.
Here is some more insight on trunk rattles:
http://www.installer.com/tech/rattles.html
Hope this helps.
compvr15s on 05/17/2005 13:43:48
main thing to do is, while your system is running, go around the outside of your car and listen for rattles, license plate, mufler shield, tail light assemblies. things like that, for the license plate, i always just use a piece of two sided tape, unscrew the plate, put a piece at the top and bottom in the middle and then rescrew.... as for the mufler shield, its hard to say here, sometimes they are a pain, but you can usually find a way to shut them up... another problem may be your trunk rubber, the seal around the trunk may need to be replaced. any metal to metal touching will not sound good especially if there is a tiny space between the two.... orther than that, not much i can tell ya, all that usually fixes my rattling, have had some severe rattling too... its hard to get rid of all of it but you should be able to make is sound good and get heads turning, good luck
trunkisloud on 05/17/2005 17:38:17
i got mad rattles......91 caprice with 2 punch p3's in 5 cubes tuned at 24 hz....the rear quarter panels are separating from flexing and starting to rattle like a bag of nickels
asplundher on 05/17/2005 20:47:46
One way to get rid of rattles is to keep the air moving from the woofers from moving into the trunk. Basically have the woofers fire right into the cabin. Kinda like a free air system but, with a box attached. The main drawback is all setups won't be able to use it. If the space doesn't allow it or the subs must face the rear, then you won't be able to do it.
At one time I hade a 81' Buick Park Ave. Instead of going with 12's or bigger like most of the fellas round the way; I decided on 10's. Reason is that there was just enough space for them to fit flush against the back seat and fire into the seating area. There was no or at least very minimal sound going back into the trunk. Never had a rattle problem although back then we didn't go for the higher spl's that they now do.
You don't see many systems done like that anymore because everyone is on that "facing-rear" kick, which does work for some but, not all. I even had a buddy who often made custom side panels that attached to the box in installs, that kept the sound focused forward and away from adjacent panels. It looked kinda weird but it worked.
lessismorespl on 05/18/2005 19:36:54
It is not about a fad or "kick" when it comes to aiming the subwoofers. Here is a better explanation.
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming.html
http://www.installer.com/tech/aiming2.html
Aiming the subs plays a major role in how the subs sound when it comes to SQ, SPL it makes no difference how the subs sound b/c it is all about pressure levels, but for SQ aiming plays a major role.
This also includes the main speakers, many people believe b/c the factory placed the speakers where they did, it is the best place for SQ, but that is far from true. Even the slightest adjustments to change the direction and reflection of the speakers can be an improvement, or a big mistake. It took me hours to find the perfect place for my eXcelons in the rear deck, I tried different angles, aiming in different directions, etc.. aiming the subwoofers is just as important.
As for getting the rattles out, the only time I ever stopped all the rattles was in a MECA car and that car's interior was completely stripped and a 2 layers of Durolner was sprayed throughout, the doors were filled w/ expanding foam, as were any other empty holes and spaces, the undercarriage was also sprayed w/ Duroliner, and the trunk was lined and reinforced w/ several layers of sound dampening.
To me, this is too much work for an everyday driver. My car has very few rattles, partly b/c I used sound dampening, but mostly b/c of the aiming of the enclosure, how the enclosure was built & tuned, and b/c I ported my rear deck. This was some work also, but mostly brain work due to calculations, but the effort was worth every hour b/c the car has excellent SQ even at levels of 140+ dB's.
asplundher on 05/18/2005 19:48:13
I didn't say it was a fad. What I said is "which does work for some but, not all". The thing is some people use it because they see others doing it when they actually shouldn't. It all depends on the vehicle. It was merely a suggestion on the same concept that you stated that you used (directed firing/aiming).
acid on 05/19/2005 03:17:28
hey guys thankx alot, for the info, if anyone is from the ny or nj area email me djaciddrive@aol.com, i need a really good idea for a new system for my car, i wanna do something extremly custom, if there are any good installers out there, that wanna work on a project with me get at me, djaciddrive@aol.com
lessismorespl on 05/19/2005 07:41:54
It depends on what part of NY you are from, but I know 3 very good installers from the NYC area I met while competing. They do excellent glass work and build great enclosures. They also have all the install toys to scope and test your vehicle for the best possible SQ. If you are interested in where their shops are, email me at admin@lessismorespl.com.
"You don't see many systems done like that anymore because everyone is on that "facing-rear" kick, which does work for some but, not all." It may have been taken in the wrong way. In my years of installing, I have seen very few vehicles benefit from facing the subs to the front, or cabin, of the vehicle, w/ the exception of SPL vehicles which benefit greatly from this. I did use this method in my old 97 Saturn SL2 and the results were nice, but it also depends on the enclosure, the subs, and how the system is tuned.
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