First Off, I am driving a 98 2 Door Cavalier with a 105 Watt Alternator, it has 4x6" Front Door speakers, 6x9" Rear Speakers, and the OEM HU.
My Goal is mainly SQ, but would like some solid SPL -- I am not interested in competeing in anyway, but would like a system I can be proud of but not sink a fortune into.
What I was looking at was this:
HU: Alpine CDA-9835 -- BOUGHT
4x6": Infinity Kappa 462.5CFP
Front Amp: Alpine MRV-T320 -- BOUGHT
6x9": Infinity Kappa 692.5I
Sub Amp: Alpine MRD-M605
Sub(s): Either Infinity Perfects or Alpine Type R
Encl.: Sealed (Nothing in Mind Yet)
Now I have a few questions that I am hoping either one or a few of you could help answer for me.
1. Will this set-up work without having to upgrade my electricals?
2. What is the difference between 12V and 14.4V? Is that the Battery? If so,
Does it matter if you change it down the road?
3. Is it bettr to have 1 500 Watt Sub, or 2 200 or 300 Watt Subs?
Suggestions & Comments Welcome!
I realize to a few of you this may look familiar; and it is. Due to "family" issues stereo got put on back burner till now.
Replies (9)
cplkittle on 04/9/2005 11:22:39
Opinion on question 1:
I don't think there will be a serious problem electrically with your system in reguards to the alternator. I have found in the last few years of installing amplifiers that most problems depend on the vehicle when running in the 600-1000w range. I would go ahead with the install, and fix problems as they occur and according to severity dealing with power. The only reccomendation here would be to use at least 4 gauge wire for your steup.
Opinion to question 2:
The battery will hold a charge of 12v - 12.8v on its own with no drain. The alternator should produce between 13.8v and 14.6 volts when charging. Obviously your system should be slightly louder and more efficient at higher voltages. as far as changing it, refer to opinion 1.
Opinion to question 3:
This is debatable. I now have a single Diamond D6 10" sub that peaks at 141dB. This is greatly attributed to the enclosure style and design, as well as available airspace in the vehicle. I prefer to recommend to my customers who are looking for sound quality, one quality moderately powered subwoofer over 2 or 3 or 4 cheaper speakers. If all you are looking for is good sound quality with a little extra bump, I would recommend a quality 10 or 12. Only in the case where the customer prefers 8" subs do I recommend multiple drivers.
I like your setup so far. I don't have alot of experience with infinity speakers so I can't give you a preference between the two subs mentioned. I do personally like the sound of the alpine aluminum cone speakers.
lessismorespl on 04/9/2005 12:07:26
2X on all the answers cpl gave you. I personally think the Alpine Type R's are better sounding and better built subs. As for the Infinity speakers, I think for what the Kappa series cost, you could go Kenwood eXcelon, IMHO it is hard to beat the SQ of eXcelon speakers when it comes to comparably priced coaxials. Just a suggestion, the Kappas sound good, but the eXcelon sound far better in my opinion. I had JL Audio XR coaxials before I went to the eXcelons and I am much happier w/ the SQ of the eXcelons, and they were half the price of the JL's. As for going w/ 1 or 2 subs, I think honestly 1 12 would work, you could step up to the Type X 12 for what 2 Type R's cost. I have never really been impressed w/ Infinity subs, even the Perfects. I think if you want to run 2 subs, go w/ the Type R's, if you want to run 1 go w/ the Type X.
Victor on 04/9/2005 15:07:44
I guess with those advice by Cpkittle and lessismorespl, it sums it all..
Also what i think is that in those 4 x 6 holes with some modifications u cud install a 5" component MB driver and install the tweeter on the dash as per ur sound stage requirements. These components will perform way better then those 4 x 6..
Also if you are going for the Type X a sealed enclosure wud do best to give u great SQ and the kind of power u give them and what the subs can handle will help you gain the lost SPL.
Victor...
swez on 04/9/2005 15:51:36
Ageed, all comments so far, are on track and very solid recomendations.
The only things I see are the front doop speakers will not deliver much Midbass. The rears will have to do that work for you. The 5.25 or 6.5" coaxials or Comps may serve you better for SPL, SQ and staging quality. Kenwood Excelon, Alpine Type R, CDT & Infinity are all good options here. May take a little work, making a larger MB driver in the doors however.
Also, the amp choices are good for plenty of clean SQL performance here. Question is, do you really need that large a sub amp? A single Alpine type R and the Alpine MRD-D301 is plenty of bass power and not as hard on the electricals. That amp delivers a solid 350 Wrms @ 2 ohms. Only 40A max draw here.
FYI: In a well designed sub system, you should get pretty close to 135 dB of Bass. Sealed will give you good tight bass here. Just a thought.... open up an air vent from trunk to cabin, will easily net 3-5 more dB of Bass too. If you have fold down rear seat backs, that'll definitely give you more cabin Bass. Several guys on this forum have done this with very good results. Almost too much bass with this setup, but plenty of clean reserve power for peak transient response.
How are you planning to use the 2 channel amp? (fronts only?) A solid 4 channel amp will give you better control between front & rear staging too. Yes, will need a few more amperes of current if you go that route, but the system should manage with minor upgrades.
The others have given the thumbs up... now the rest is detailed planning and gathering toys for the install process. Sounds good so far!
Swez
BassFreak420 on 04/9/2005 19:30:58
i use to also drive a 98' 2door cavie. what worked really well was 2 12 inch Orions with matching 6x9's in the back. That **** bumped the niehborhood up. cops called on me three times in one week!
BassFreak420 on 04/9/2005 19:32:07
and a pioneer 760w bridgeable amp
swez on 04/9/2005 20:28:16
Hey there BassFreak... welcome to CK. Hope you enjoy the experience as you browse the site.
FYI: This is a PG rated site. Would appreciate it if you would edit first post of the "colorful" commentary quip. We are all abiding by that guideline and ask that others join us in same.
Yeah, I know... you are new, so you get a friendly hint. Much appreciated if you would edit the post.
Thanks,
Swez
trunkisloud on 04/9/2005 21:53:46
1 12" would definately provide some serious sound. i had a pioneer premier in a 1.5 ported tuned at 35 hz and it really beat the block up
Spyder's_Crpyt on 04/11/2005 21:30:47
Thank-You All for your Ideas and Such; with everything that you guys have said, only 1 thing is confusing me.
I was under the impression that it is always better to have more amp power than woofer power.
Meaning that if I have a 600 Watt Amp -- I should run either one 500 watt woofer or 2 250-300 watt woofers.
Yet when reading your responses I am reading things such as 2 Type R's or 1 Type X -- etc.
The new Type R's are 500 watts RMS a Piece and the Type X is 1000 watts RMS
If someone could please explain that to me it would be of great help as I am looking at buying the woofer(s) shortly and really don't want to mess up here.
Thx 2 All Who Posted!
My Goal is mainly SQ, but would like some solid SPL -- I am not interested in competeing in anyway, but would like a system I can be proud of but not sink a fortune into.
What I was looking at was this:
HU: Alpine CDA-9835 -- BOUGHT
4x6": Infinity Kappa 462.5CFP
Front Amp: Alpine MRV-T320 -- BOUGHT
6x9": Infinity Kappa 692.5I
Sub Amp: Alpine MRD-M605
Sub(s): Either Infinity Perfects or Alpine Type R
Encl.: Sealed (Nothing in Mind Yet)
Now I have a few questions that I am hoping either one or a few of you could help answer for me.
1. Will this set-up work without having to upgrade my electricals?
2. What is the difference between 12V and 14.4V? Is that the Battery? If so,
Does it matter if you change it down the road?
3. Is it bettr to have 1 500 Watt Sub, or 2 200 or 300 Watt Subs?
Suggestions & Comments Welcome!
I realize to a few of you this may look familiar; and it is. Due to "family" issues stereo got put on back burner till now.
Replies (9)
cplkittle on 04/9/2005 11:22:39
Opinion on question 1:
I don't think there will be a serious problem electrically with your system in reguards to the alternator. I have found in the last few years of installing amplifiers that most problems depend on the vehicle when running in the 600-1000w range. I would go ahead with the install, and fix problems as they occur and according to severity dealing with power. The only reccomendation here would be to use at least 4 gauge wire for your steup.
Opinion to question 2:
The battery will hold a charge of 12v - 12.8v on its own with no drain. The alternator should produce between 13.8v and 14.6 volts when charging. Obviously your system should be slightly louder and more efficient at higher voltages. as far as changing it, refer to opinion 1.
Opinion to question 3:
This is debatable. I now have a single Diamond D6 10" sub that peaks at 141dB. This is greatly attributed to the enclosure style and design, as well as available airspace in the vehicle. I prefer to recommend to my customers who are looking for sound quality, one quality moderately powered subwoofer over 2 or 3 or 4 cheaper speakers. If all you are looking for is good sound quality with a little extra bump, I would recommend a quality 10 or 12. Only in the case where the customer prefers 8" subs do I recommend multiple drivers.
I like your setup so far. I don't have alot of experience with infinity speakers so I can't give you a preference between the two subs mentioned. I do personally like the sound of the alpine aluminum cone speakers.
lessismorespl on 04/9/2005 12:07:26
2X on all the answers cpl gave you. I personally think the Alpine Type R's are better sounding and better built subs. As for the Infinity speakers, I think for what the Kappa series cost, you could go Kenwood eXcelon, IMHO it is hard to beat the SQ of eXcelon speakers when it comes to comparably priced coaxials. Just a suggestion, the Kappas sound good, but the eXcelon sound far better in my opinion. I had JL Audio XR coaxials before I went to the eXcelons and I am much happier w/ the SQ of the eXcelons, and they were half the price of the JL's. As for going w/ 1 or 2 subs, I think honestly 1 12 would work, you could step up to the Type X 12 for what 2 Type R's cost. I have never really been impressed w/ Infinity subs, even the Perfects. I think if you want to run 2 subs, go w/ the Type R's, if you want to run 1 go w/ the Type X.
Victor on 04/9/2005 15:07:44
I guess with those advice by Cpkittle and lessismorespl, it sums it all..
Also what i think is that in those 4 x 6 holes with some modifications u cud install a 5" component MB driver and install the tweeter on the dash as per ur sound stage requirements. These components will perform way better then those 4 x 6..
Also if you are going for the Type X a sealed enclosure wud do best to give u great SQ and the kind of power u give them and what the subs can handle will help you gain the lost SPL.
Victor...
swez on 04/9/2005 15:51:36
Ageed, all comments so far, are on track and very solid recomendations.
The only things I see are the front doop speakers will not deliver much Midbass. The rears will have to do that work for you. The 5.25 or 6.5" coaxials or Comps may serve you better for SPL, SQ and staging quality. Kenwood Excelon, Alpine Type R, CDT & Infinity are all good options here. May take a little work, making a larger MB driver in the doors however.
Also, the amp choices are good for plenty of clean SQL performance here. Question is, do you really need that large a sub amp? A single Alpine type R and the Alpine MRD-D301 is plenty of bass power and not as hard on the electricals. That amp delivers a solid 350 Wrms @ 2 ohms. Only 40A max draw here.
FYI: In a well designed sub system, you should get pretty close to 135 dB of Bass. Sealed will give you good tight bass here. Just a thought.... open up an air vent from trunk to cabin, will easily net 3-5 more dB of Bass too. If you have fold down rear seat backs, that'll definitely give you more cabin Bass. Several guys on this forum have done this with very good results. Almost too much bass with this setup, but plenty of clean reserve power for peak transient response.
How are you planning to use the 2 channel amp? (fronts only?) A solid 4 channel amp will give you better control between front & rear staging too. Yes, will need a few more amperes of current if you go that route, but the system should manage with minor upgrades.
The others have given the thumbs up... now the rest is detailed planning and gathering toys for the install process. Sounds good so far!
Swez
BassFreak420 on 04/9/2005 19:30:58
i use to also drive a 98' 2door cavie. what worked really well was 2 12 inch Orions with matching 6x9's in the back. That **** bumped the niehborhood up. cops called on me three times in one week!
BassFreak420 on 04/9/2005 19:32:07
and a pioneer 760w bridgeable amp
swez on 04/9/2005 20:28:16
Hey there BassFreak... welcome to CK. Hope you enjoy the experience as you browse the site.
FYI: This is a PG rated site. Would appreciate it if you would edit first post of the "colorful" commentary quip. We are all abiding by that guideline and ask that others join us in same.
Yeah, I know... you are new, so you get a friendly hint. Much appreciated if you would edit the post.
Thanks,
Swez
trunkisloud on 04/9/2005 21:53:46
1 12" would definately provide some serious sound. i had a pioneer premier in a 1.5 ported tuned at 35 hz and it really beat the block up
Spyder's_Crpyt on 04/11/2005 21:30:47
Thank-You All for your Ideas and Such; with everything that you guys have said, only 1 thing is confusing me.
I was under the impression that it is always better to have more amp power than woofer power.
Meaning that if I have a 600 Watt Amp -- I should run either one 500 watt woofer or 2 250-300 watt woofers.
Yet when reading your responses I am reading things such as 2 Type R's or 1 Type X -- etc.
The new Type R's are 500 watts RMS a Piece and the Type X is 1000 watts RMS
If someone could please explain that to me it would be of great help as I am looking at buying the woofer(s) shortly and really don't want to mess up here.
Thx 2 All Who Posted!
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