ok right now i am stuck with just a Audiobahn sound Q 12" and a 1000 watt pyramid amp SAD i don't like this i was thinking of something like 2 Sound Q 12's and 2 Linear Compression 12's but i don't know what i would run all of it with i'd like one amp for Sound Q's and amp each for Linear's i was thinking of 3 Audiobahn A2300HCT's THINK but i want others opinions because i know there are alot of ppl here with a vast amount of knowledge
Replies (12)
swez on 04/2/2005 07:39:53
The present amp you have is definitely a weak link. P-mids are usually very over rated in power specs.
Also, this is a 6+6 ohm DVC. You get 12 ohms in series, 3 ohms in parallel. This sub was designed for better than average SQ/SPL performance in small sealed enclosures. A pair of them can be wired in full parallel for a 1.5 ohm load.
As for amps, a single A2300HCT is not a bad amp choice as it can be bridged and still net ~2000 Wrms to the subs. However, the current draw on this amp will be huge. (>150A at full power) That means a huge electrical system upgrade. A 200A plus ALT is likely.
A better option is the A18001DT, Class D amp. Here you'll get about 1500-1600 Wrms to the subs @ 1.5 ohms. Class D amps draw less current than a HCT amp. As for net SPL, there is very little difference in SPL output between 1500 & 2000 Wrms. But the power draw factor will be considerably less with a class D amp.
What say you?
Swez
TalonTSI91 on 04/2/2005 17:14:55
Well that sounds like a good choice i was thinking of running 3 of the A2300HCT's tho one for each of 2 12" Audiobahn Linear compression's and then the 3rd for the Sound Q's but i can run the sound Q's with the A18001DT as you said which would be fine but how do i still pump alot of ower into the other subs without using the A2300HCT's? if need be i can go to a 2 battery set up with a battery isolator? is that what would be called for there to charge both (one at a time) ?
TalonTSI91 on 04/2/2005 18:07:21
And as far as running 2 Sound Q's in full parallel i know it would drop it to 1.5 ohms but then would that power (1500w-1600w) be split equally between the 2 subs?
swez on 04/2/2005 20:21:55
Yes, the power would be evenly divided between both subs. (750-800 Wrms/sub) Plenty of power there.
As for the other question... it depends on the charging system you have now. Adding a 2nd battery to the charging system will be seen as a new taxing load on the ALT, even with the Isolator. In general, the ALT will be able to charge both batteries. First, it will top off your starter BAT, then attempt to keep feeding the 2nd BAT as much power as it can. However, the ALT may have to work very hard to feed the 2nd BAT adequately to keep its current and voltage at normal range. Really depends on the amplifier current demand, 2nd BAT storage capacity, ALT output ability and listening habits.
Swez
TalonTSI91 on 04/3/2005 04:04:38
Ok well in general i think the A2300HCT will not be the weapon of choice here becasue to replace the ALT i can't find big aftermarket alternators only stinger and that will in itself be pricey so any suggestions for a replacement amp instead of the A2300HCT for the Linear's 2000 wrms ?
swez on 04/3/2005 10:43:23
Talon,
Basic electronics and math dictate the power of a given system. We only have so many watts available from the power supply in a vehicle. That is comprised of the ALT, BAT and wires. A typical vehicle needs roughly 40-60A of current to power all primary and seconadary circuits. Whatever is left over in power reserves, can be used for other devices like amps.
To be upfront about the whole matter, if ya wanna run with the Big Dawgs, gotta have/do what the Big Dawgs have/do:
1. Money to burn
2. Upgrades to power delivery system
3. Solid products
4. Knowledge to pull things all together
Swez
PS OK, all that said, What size ALT/BAT do you have in this car now? Knowing that, maybe we can work out a plan.
TalonTSI91 on 04/3/2005 19:01:11
Well 90 amp ALT and stock battery but looking to get an optima yellow top.
swez on 04/4/2005 12:17:57
OK, a 90A ALT will net maybe 40A of usable current to power your
amp(s). Adding a healthy sized Optima YT (+850 CCA rating) may bring you to a usable amp that draws 75-80A when pushed hard. However, this will still be a notable strain on the ALT. (800-1000 Wrms, Class D or T Mono amp will do that job well.
Another trick you can use is to upgrade the "Big 3" power lines:
1. ALT to BAT
2. BAT to GND
3. Engine Gnd braid wire (use 2 braid i/o 1)
That minor upgrade is cheap and will give max current flow to all electrical system components. Fingure #4 gage wire here.
However, if you want more power for your system, start saving and shopping for a 150-200A ALT. That will support not only a solid Class D amp, but also a decent 2/4 channel amp for mids and highs.
Comments?
Swez
PS There is a ALT maker out there off E-bay that sells HO ALT's for way less than Stinger or Ohio Gen. I think Chronos can lead you on same. He got a 200A ALT for under $250 and a lifetime warrantee too.
TalonTSI91 on 04/5/2005 01:44:13
alright well i'll start checking e-bay for ALT's and as far as ipgrading the "big 3" shouldn't be a problem if i can find a descent ALT then i should be able to get that done thanks
TalonTSI91 on 04/5/2005 02:12:22
ok now am i just being stupid here or am i going to have to have a custom bracket for the ALT because i can't find one for my talon and if so can i just get any HO ALT?
swez on 04/5/2005 09:23:14
New bracket... perhaps so. Depends on the new ALT's overall dimensions. HO ALT's generally have larger cases to make room for larger field coils, HD diodes, larger armatures and brushes. Depending on how much wiggle room you have on the stock bracket, may or may not have to change it.
"Get any HO ALT"? Don't think so. ALT's have a few common features, but they also have to be able to communicate with the cars computer to adjust output based on load sensed by the ECM. (Electronic Control Module)
1. Positive output lug
2. Ground is the case and bracket system
3. Other wires are signal control lines to ECM
Items 1 & 2 are pretty self explanitory. Item 3 is a controller circuit feed from the computer (ECM) that tells the ALT when to increase or decrease power output depending on load conditions. These wires from the ECM are connected to an internal regulator. The computer senses the load conditions and tells the regulator to adjust output based on load conditions. (Load = lights, A/C blower motor, power amps etc.)
If you want some background on charging system basics, bcae1 is a great site for references on same. Here's a link to read more:
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
Swez
PS Check with Uochronos on where to get a HO ALT designed for your car. He can help you find one that will do the job and not break the bank either.
TalonTSI91 on 04/5/2005 21:12:25
Alright thanks.
Replies (12)
swez on 04/2/2005 07:39:53
The present amp you have is definitely a weak link. P-mids are usually very over rated in power specs.
Also, this is a 6+6 ohm DVC. You get 12 ohms in series, 3 ohms in parallel. This sub was designed for better than average SQ/SPL performance in small sealed enclosures. A pair of them can be wired in full parallel for a 1.5 ohm load.
As for amps, a single A2300HCT is not a bad amp choice as it can be bridged and still net ~2000 Wrms to the subs. However, the current draw on this amp will be huge. (>150A at full power) That means a huge electrical system upgrade. A 200A plus ALT is likely.
A better option is the A18001DT, Class D amp. Here you'll get about 1500-1600 Wrms to the subs @ 1.5 ohms. Class D amps draw less current than a HCT amp. As for net SPL, there is very little difference in SPL output between 1500 & 2000 Wrms. But the power draw factor will be considerably less with a class D amp.
What say you?
Swez
TalonTSI91 on 04/2/2005 17:14:55
Well that sounds like a good choice i was thinking of running 3 of the A2300HCT's tho one for each of 2 12" Audiobahn Linear compression's and then the 3rd for the Sound Q's but i can run the sound Q's with the A18001DT as you said which would be fine but how do i still pump alot of ower into the other subs without using the A2300HCT's? if need be i can go to a 2 battery set up with a battery isolator? is that what would be called for there to charge both (one at a time) ?
TalonTSI91 on 04/2/2005 18:07:21
And as far as running 2 Sound Q's in full parallel i know it would drop it to 1.5 ohms but then would that power (1500w-1600w) be split equally between the 2 subs?
swez on 04/2/2005 20:21:55
Yes, the power would be evenly divided between both subs. (750-800 Wrms/sub) Plenty of power there.
As for the other question... it depends on the charging system you have now. Adding a 2nd battery to the charging system will be seen as a new taxing load on the ALT, even with the Isolator. In general, the ALT will be able to charge both batteries. First, it will top off your starter BAT, then attempt to keep feeding the 2nd BAT as much power as it can. However, the ALT may have to work very hard to feed the 2nd BAT adequately to keep its current and voltage at normal range. Really depends on the amplifier current demand, 2nd BAT storage capacity, ALT output ability and listening habits.
Swez
TalonTSI91 on 04/3/2005 04:04:38
Ok well in general i think the A2300HCT will not be the weapon of choice here becasue to replace the ALT i can't find big aftermarket alternators only stinger and that will in itself be pricey so any suggestions for a replacement amp instead of the A2300HCT for the Linear's 2000 wrms ?
swez on 04/3/2005 10:43:23
Talon,
Basic electronics and math dictate the power of a given system. We only have so many watts available from the power supply in a vehicle. That is comprised of the ALT, BAT and wires. A typical vehicle needs roughly 40-60A of current to power all primary and seconadary circuits. Whatever is left over in power reserves, can be used for other devices like amps.
To be upfront about the whole matter, if ya wanna run with the Big Dawgs, gotta have/do what the Big Dawgs have/do:
1. Money to burn
2. Upgrades to power delivery system
3. Solid products
4. Knowledge to pull things all together
Swez
PS OK, all that said, What size ALT/BAT do you have in this car now? Knowing that, maybe we can work out a plan.
TalonTSI91 on 04/3/2005 19:01:11
Well 90 amp ALT and stock battery but looking to get an optima yellow top.
swez on 04/4/2005 12:17:57
OK, a 90A ALT will net maybe 40A of usable current to power your
amp(s). Adding a healthy sized Optima YT (+850 CCA rating) may bring you to a usable amp that draws 75-80A when pushed hard. However, this will still be a notable strain on the ALT. (800-1000 Wrms, Class D or T Mono amp will do that job well.
Another trick you can use is to upgrade the "Big 3" power lines:
1. ALT to BAT
2. BAT to GND
3. Engine Gnd braid wire (use 2 braid i/o 1)
That minor upgrade is cheap and will give max current flow to all electrical system components. Fingure #4 gage wire here.
However, if you want more power for your system, start saving and shopping for a 150-200A ALT. That will support not only a solid Class D amp, but also a decent 2/4 channel amp for mids and highs.
Comments?
Swez
PS There is a ALT maker out there off E-bay that sells HO ALT's for way less than Stinger or Ohio Gen. I think Chronos can lead you on same. He got a 200A ALT for under $250 and a lifetime warrantee too.
TalonTSI91 on 04/5/2005 01:44:13
alright well i'll start checking e-bay for ALT's and as far as ipgrading the "big 3" shouldn't be a problem if i can find a descent ALT then i should be able to get that done thanks
TalonTSI91 on 04/5/2005 02:12:22
ok now am i just being stupid here or am i going to have to have a custom bracket for the ALT because i can't find one for my talon and if so can i just get any HO ALT?
swez on 04/5/2005 09:23:14
New bracket... perhaps so. Depends on the new ALT's overall dimensions. HO ALT's generally have larger cases to make room for larger field coils, HD diodes, larger armatures and brushes. Depending on how much wiggle room you have on the stock bracket, may or may not have to change it.
"Get any HO ALT"? Don't think so. ALT's have a few common features, but they also have to be able to communicate with the cars computer to adjust output based on load sensed by the ECM. (Electronic Control Module)
1. Positive output lug
2. Ground is the case and bracket system
3. Other wires are signal control lines to ECM
Items 1 & 2 are pretty self explanitory. Item 3 is a controller circuit feed from the computer (ECM) that tells the ALT when to increase or decrease power output depending on load conditions. These wires from the ECM are connected to an internal regulator. The computer senses the load conditions and tells the regulator to adjust output based on load conditions. (Load = lights, A/C blower motor, power amps etc.)
If you want some background on charging system basics, bcae1 is a great site for references on same. Here's a link to read more:
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
Swez
PS Check with Uochronos on where to get a HO ALT designed for your car. He can help you find one that will do the job and not break the bank either.
TalonTSI91 on 04/5/2005 21:12:25
Alright thanks.
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