i have 2 10" fubr power acoustik subs rated at 800 watts rms and 1800 watts at max. i'm looking at either SPL or POWER ACOUSTIC 1600 watt 2 channel amps (different name same exact amps) both are rated at 370x2 rms 800x2 max. i am also looking at brand such as PROFILE ( cl1200 450x2 rms 600x2 max) ( ap2000 475x2 rms 1000x2 max) i will also be running the soundstorm ssl-150xc crossover.i need help determining what amp is best at my application. my budget is only $ 200.00. PLEASE GIVE ME ANY SUGGESTIONS AND INPUT ADVICE! THANKS!
Replies (14)
compvr15s on 03/28/2005 21:41:33
if i was you i would go for a class d amp instead of a 2 channel here... much less power draw from electrical system and much more power for your subs..... which vc subs do you have. will the amp see a 2 ohm or 1 ohm load...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18797&item=5763970502&rd=1
this amp is 1500 watts a 1 ohm, will give subs 750 watts, 500 watts at 2 ohms.... is 219 but is a very good match for your subs... will be much better than a 2 channel amp. has built in ss filter if your enclosure is ported... will be a nice match, there are many other amps out there, 200 watts is kinda tight for an amp in the power range u need. good luck
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 21:52:50
i forgot to add that these subs are dual 2 ohm vc.how would i bridge these dual 2 ohm vc down to 1 ohm?
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 21:58:16
what about if i got a mono amp from power acoustic or profile? i've been reading mixed reviews about both amps.
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 22:10:33
ok i found a profile ap1000 watt mono. it is 500 watts rms x 1,will i be able to run both subs off of that amp without it overheating? or any other brand mono amp?
compvr15s on 03/28/2005 22:52:58
is there a certain reason you want either profile or power acoustiks? profile is more of an entry level competetor, and for power acoustiks, i have never heard anything bad about them. but to power them subs, you will want around 1200-1600 watts... if you go much less, you will not be giving your subs that they want, and will have to keep your gains down, so you dont blow your subs. underpowering them is very bad... its actually better to over power them, but matching the power is good too... your going to need an amp that will pose 1200-1600 watts at 2 omhs, going to cost a lil more than 200 prolly, well 1200 watts can be found in that range, but is there anything wrong with the amp that i suggested?? if there is a certain reason you want those amps, then i can try to find one that fits your needs, good luck
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 23:44:21
a friend of mine actually had profile and i thought it pounded the hell out of his subs. but the amp you suggested sounded good but i'm on a very tight budget. now if i take a 2 channel amp we'll say with a 1600 to 2000 watt max output and run it like a 1 channel amp and have a 2 ohm output on the woofers and a 2 ohm input on the amp will the amp overheat? or if i run a 1 channel (mono amp) amp for both woofers with a 2 ohm input on the amp will that amp overheat? thanks for all the help so farcompvr15s
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 23:56:32
what about the boss rt2500d 2500 watts max at 2 ohm(mono amp)
compvr15s on 03/29/2005 00:19:22
most class d amps are vented and fan cooled, have not seen one over heat yet, i have class d mono amps, and even after 3-5 hrs of play at 50%or more they are not even warm to the touch.... now class a/b amps draw more current and produce less power, where do you think the excess power goes? pretty much converted into heat, i can not stress how much better class d amps are for sub woofer aplications, id say giving them sub 600 watts each will make them pound. funny thing is by doubling your power, you will only gain a 3db increase, not very much(pretty pathetic and uncostly if you ask me) but when you way underpower the sub you risk the chance of damaging them from sending clipped(distorted) signal to the subs from the amp... its ok to underpower subs, but you know how ppl are. if they have a sub they want it to pound at its hardest, so they will turn bass boost and gains way up, only to find out thier sub will be junk in no time. but lets say you had only one sub rated at 800wrms with an amp that is 1200wrms, you are not going to send a distorted signal at 800 watts or less, thats only 2/3 of the amps potential. but if you try to run that same sub with lets say a 400 watt amp, you are only gonna get 400 watts of clean power no matter what, by adding bass boost and over inflating the gains, your just going to distort the signal, kinda see what im sayin.... if you are wise with gains you will not have a problem with underpowering these subs, just dont expect them to play as loud as possible if they are only getting half thier recommed power.... box type and size will also play a role here, if you go with a ported box your subs are not going to require 800 watts to reach xmax. but if you go will smaller sealed box they will handle all that and maybe even more.... let us know more of what you are looking for, maybe thats where i should have started off, before poping off options...
anonymus_t on 03/29/2005 01:00:00
thanks for putting it in such clear view. now i'm looking at a BOSS RT2500 mono max power 2 ohm 2500 watts x 1. @millionbuy.com $160.00 what do you think about that? so far i hear great reviews about this item. the reason i'm stressin about the amp heating up is because i fried a couple and i really don't have the money to keep replacing them. i'm actually running a sealed box for 4 10"s.the other 2 10s are VISONIK. so with what you are saying i can run both of the POWER ACOUSTIK subs off of this BOSS amp and that should leave me with no prblems as long as the 2 ohm load on the amp matches the 2 ohms on the woofers? and also that should not be underpowering?
anonymus_t on 03/29/2005 01:10:33
also will the soundstorm ssl-150xc crossover do anything for me with that boss amp? will any crossover do anything for me? (any reccomendations?)
compvr15s on 03/29/2005 01:52:24
boss is another one of them brands, you pretty much get what you pay for hear, cheap price for cheap quailty, with boasted ratings, it says 2500 max but its prolly more like 700-800 max.. if i was you id save money and get a decent amp, by going with a class d amp the likey hood of it over heating is greatly decreased as compared to class a/b amp. what amps did you fry, were they of the same quality as mentions in last post. if so that prolly why your fryin them, most of them companies make their products look good but they dont perform welll, just my two cents, id save and get a better qualitly later
swez on 03/29/2005 08:47:10
Got a real dilema on your hands... high powered subs, low budget amps with very unrealistic watts output noted. PA makes a few very solid amps and subs, but Boss is NOT what it appears to be. Very over-rated products.
If you want real world sub amp power, look at the current draw (fuse ratings) on amps you wish to consider. A true Class D amp rated at 1000 -1200 Wrms will have some hefty fuses. (100-120A current draw) Anything less... just a bunch of BS. No amp with a pair of 30A fuses will deliver the power you are looking for.
For the power desired and sub combo noted, consider Kicker KX 1200.1. JBL BP 1200.1, Rockford 1000D, MA Audio, HiFonics or other Class D amps that will deliver a true 600 Wrms per sub. Also, when using dual 2+2 subs, you get a perfect 2 ohm load when wired correctly. These are not cheap and buying a refurb or used amp off e-bay are your best chances at the price range noted. If buying a budget brand w/ over-rated specs.... you'll be very dissapointed and wind up having to off the amp (at a loss) and buy again.
Finally, look at the specs!!! You need to know the watts (RMS) output at 2 ohms. Peak watts are a useless and misleading number. Avoid 2 channel amps as they can be real power hogs for the output they deliver. I cannot stress the power demand (current) needed to manage a large amp. Most Class D's in this range, will draw close to 100A of current when we drive them hard. Can your electrical system support that kind of power draw? If you have <150A ALT and upgrades to BAT and power lines..... NO WAY!!! Not a chance.
Swez
PS May I sincerely suggest that you do some research and read some of the DIY articles on the site. Lots of helpful info to help guide you and avoid major mistakes due to lack of understanding how this game works. As it stands now, you are looking at a train wreak of major proportions and not even see the train.
anonymus_t on 03/29/2005 12:15:21
ok i think i found a winner, MA AUDIO 800 wrms @ 2ohm $134.00 on ebay what do ya think?
swez on 03/29/2005 13:23:28
Think you are on the right track here... got a link?
Swez
Replies (14)
compvr15s on 03/28/2005 21:41:33
if i was you i would go for a class d amp instead of a 2 channel here... much less power draw from electrical system and much more power for your subs..... which vc subs do you have. will the amp see a 2 ohm or 1 ohm load...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=18797&item=5763970502&rd=1
this amp is 1500 watts a 1 ohm, will give subs 750 watts, 500 watts at 2 ohms.... is 219 but is a very good match for your subs... will be much better than a 2 channel amp. has built in ss filter if your enclosure is ported... will be a nice match, there are many other amps out there, 200 watts is kinda tight for an amp in the power range u need. good luck
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 21:52:50
i forgot to add that these subs are dual 2 ohm vc.how would i bridge these dual 2 ohm vc down to 1 ohm?
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 21:58:16
what about if i got a mono amp from power acoustic or profile? i've been reading mixed reviews about both amps.
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 22:10:33
ok i found a profile ap1000 watt mono. it is 500 watts rms x 1,will i be able to run both subs off of that amp without it overheating? or any other brand mono amp?
compvr15s on 03/28/2005 22:52:58
is there a certain reason you want either profile or power acoustiks? profile is more of an entry level competetor, and for power acoustiks, i have never heard anything bad about them. but to power them subs, you will want around 1200-1600 watts... if you go much less, you will not be giving your subs that they want, and will have to keep your gains down, so you dont blow your subs. underpowering them is very bad... its actually better to over power them, but matching the power is good too... your going to need an amp that will pose 1200-1600 watts at 2 omhs, going to cost a lil more than 200 prolly, well 1200 watts can be found in that range, but is there anything wrong with the amp that i suggested?? if there is a certain reason you want those amps, then i can try to find one that fits your needs, good luck
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 23:44:21
a friend of mine actually had profile and i thought it pounded the hell out of his subs. but the amp you suggested sounded good but i'm on a very tight budget. now if i take a 2 channel amp we'll say with a 1600 to 2000 watt max output and run it like a 1 channel amp and have a 2 ohm output on the woofers and a 2 ohm input on the amp will the amp overheat? or if i run a 1 channel (mono amp) amp for both woofers with a 2 ohm input on the amp will that amp overheat? thanks for all the help so farcompvr15s
anonymus_t on 03/28/2005 23:56:32
what about the boss rt2500d 2500 watts max at 2 ohm(mono amp)
compvr15s on 03/29/2005 00:19:22
most class d amps are vented and fan cooled, have not seen one over heat yet, i have class d mono amps, and even after 3-5 hrs of play at 50%or more they are not even warm to the touch.... now class a/b amps draw more current and produce less power, where do you think the excess power goes? pretty much converted into heat, i can not stress how much better class d amps are for sub woofer aplications, id say giving them sub 600 watts each will make them pound. funny thing is by doubling your power, you will only gain a 3db increase, not very much(pretty pathetic and uncostly if you ask me) but when you way underpower the sub you risk the chance of damaging them from sending clipped(distorted) signal to the subs from the amp... its ok to underpower subs, but you know how ppl are. if they have a sub they want it to pound at its hardest, so they will turn bass boost and gains way up, only to find out thier sub will be junk in no time. but lets say you had only one sub rated at 800wrms with an amp that is 1200wrms, you are not going to send a distorted signal at 800 watts or less, thats only 2/3 of the amps potential. but if you try to run that same sub with lets say a 400 watt amp, you are only gonna get 400 watts of clean power no matter what, by adding bass boost and over inflating the gains, your just going to distort the signal, kinda see what im sayin.... if you are wise with gains you will not have a problem with underpowering these subs, just dont expect them to play as loud as possible if they are only getting half thier recommed power.... box type and size will also play a role here, if you go with a ported box your subs are not going to require 800 watts to reach xmax. but if you go will smaller sealed box they will handle all that and maybe even more.... let us know more of what you are looking for, maybe thats where i should have started off, before poping off options...
anonymus_t on 03/29/2005 01:00:00
thanks for putting it in such clear view. now i'm looking at a BOSS RT2500 mono max power 2 ohm 2500 watts x 1. @millionbuy.com $160.00 what do you think about that? so far i hear great reviews about this item. the reason i'm stressin about the amp heating up is because i fried a couple and i really don't have the money to keep replacing them. i'm actually running a sealed box for 4 10"s.the other 2 10s are VISONIK. so with what you are saying i can run both of the POWER ACOUSTIK subs off of this BOSS amp and that should leave me with no prblems as long as the 2 ohm load on the amp matches the 2 ohms on the woofers? and also that should not be underpowering?
anonymus_t on 03/29/2005 01:10:33
also will the soundstorm ssl-150xc crossover do anything for me with that boss amp? will any crossover do anything for me? (any reccomendations?)
compvr15s on 03/29/2005 01:52:24
boss is another one of them brands, you pretty much get what you pay for hear, cheap price for cheap quailty, with boasted ratings, it says 2500 max but its prolly more like 700-800 max.. if i was you id save money and get a decent amp, by going with a class d amp the likey hood of it over heating is greatly decreased as compared to class a/b amp. what amps did you fry, were they of the same quality as mentions in last post. if so that prolly why your fryin them, most of them companies make their products look good but they dont perform welll, just my two cents, id save and get a better qualitly later
swez on 03/29/2005 08:47:10
Got a real dilema on your hands... high powered subs, low budget amps with very unrealistic watts output noted. PA makes a few very solid amps and subs, but Boss is NOT what it appears to be. Very over-rated products.
If you want real world sub amp power, look at the current draw (fuse ratings) on amps you wish to consider. A true Class D amp rated at 1000 -1200 Wrms will have some hefty fuses. (100-120A current draw) Anything less... just a bunch of BS. No amp with a pair of 30A fuses will deliver the power you are looking for.
For the power desired and sub combo noted, consider Kicker KX 1200.1. JBL BP 1200.1, Rockford 1000D, MA Audio, HiFonics or other Class D amps that will deliver a true 600 Wrms per sub. Also, when using dual 2+2 subs, you get a perfect 2 ohm load when wired correctly. These are not cheap and buying a refurb or used amp off e-bay are your best chances at the price range noted. If buying a budget brand w/ over-rated specs.... you'll be very dissapointed and wind up having to off the amp (at a loss) and buy again.
Finally, look at the specs!!! You need to know the watts (RMS) output at 2 ohms. Peak watts are a useless and misleading number. Avoid 2 channel amps as they can be real power hogs for the output they deliver. I cannot stress the power demand (current) needed to manage a large amp. Most Class D's in this range, will draw close to 100A of current when we drive them hard. Can your electrical system support that kind of power draw? If you have <150A ALT and upgrades to BAT and power lines..... NO WAY!!! Not a chance.
Swez
PS May I sincerely suggest that you do some research and read some of the DIY articles on the site. Lots of helpful info to help guide you and avoid major mistakes due to lack of understanding how this game works. As it stands now, you are looking at a train wreak of major proportions and not even see the train.
anonymus_t on 03/29/2005 12:15:21
ok i think i found a winner, MA AUDIO 800 wrms @ 2ohm $134.00 on ebay what do ya think?
swez on 03/29/2005 13:23:28
Think you are on the right track here... got a link?
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
