Its a bit of a story but here goes, have a system pioneer deck, pioneer splits and 6*9s powered by a boss ba2900 amp (1000w max 240rms, 4 ch) and then 2 pioneer 15inch subs off a sound storm (2000w max 440rms 2 ch) it was all working sweet then i put in a deep cicle battery then changed the amp power cables from right of the car to the left so they could reach the new battery then while the amps were out i carpeted the boot (were the amps ar mounted) connected all the cables back together. Then last night to show a mate i put the possitive cables onto the battery pumped it up and it work all fine like it had been before i took it out, later than night my old man did the same then today i installed a relay icolator so that the second battery would charge off the alt connected amps and relay icolator to second battery started the car and all that i can here is a tick tick tick sound, tryed with the engine off and its the same sound also tryed just one amp and its the same also tryed with relay icolator cabel off nothing works.
It worked fine last night but since i tryed with today nothing will work and i dont see how the relay icolator could have caused it.
The first boss ba2900 had this problem that beeing is suddenly stoped one day i got a replacement and it worked fine until now.
So can anyone give me advice and things that i could try to get it working again.
Replies (25)
Victor on 03/13/2005 04:06:24
i guess the problem is with the way you have wired the batteries, by mistake u must have wired them for 24V instead of 12V, no wonder everything stopped working..
15-11-1988 on 03/13/2005 04:45:56
That was the first thing i checked, and wouldnt every fuse in the car blow. And i also tryed both amps with the relay icolator disconneced and still no go.
Victor on 03/13/2005 04:53:49
thats all i cud think of at this moment.. will have to give it a thought, also let other experts comment on this. will get back to you once i figure it out.
montego_27 on 03/13/2005 07:07:10
This sounds like when you re-directed the power leads something has shorted within those lines. Or it could be a faulty isolator or your wiring configuration w/ the isolator.( Is it a marine type isolator? Those work pretty well) It shouldn't make a difference wiring two batteries up directly in "parallel" ,however,both of those batteries have to be identical, and of the same age.One other question, did you configure a continous duty selenoid w/ this set-up.The last thing is, Boss amps have a history of electrical issues and it may be prove difficult to configure different power set-ups with.
gearhead on 03/13/2005 11:38:10
"...however,both of those batteries have to be identical, and of the same age."
Huh? I've worked on class 8 trucks for over 30yrs. I've never replaced all the batteries when only one was bad, and don't know anybody else that has either. I've also had trucks with 2- 6v batteries wired in series on one side, 2- 12v batteries wired in parallel on the other side, and the 2- 6v batteries wired in parallel with the 2- 12v batteries. Never had any problems, never even checked the manufacture date unless it was for warranty purposes.
ttocs on 03/13/2005 12:56:10
have you tried a voltmeter to see what you are getting out of them? Have you upgraded the alt?
swez on 03/13/2005 13:06:53
I think there are two differing aspects to this equation.
One mentality is to get the trucks back in service as soon as possible and at minimal cost. Have worked in a factory environ where hi-lo's and other electrical/mechanical work trucks were in constant use and had no set maintain schedules. When it went down, they were towed to our shop and repaired ASAP and sent back into the factory. It was pretty much shoot from the hip repair services... but it worked for the bulk of machines we serviced and had to turn around in short order. Not the best approach... but it worked!
In other cases, more complex machines we serviced needed sensors, electrical parts and such that were all kitted together. A service pack kinda deal. We replaces the sensors, the wire harnesses and drive motors, all at one swipe. Costly, time consuming to be sure. But, very effective as all worked together well.
All that said, the shot gun approach to some things are more than adequate. However, there are times when a "dig deeper" approach is needed. It seems like Tego understands that from prior experiences. On the other side of the ledger, Gear knows the value of "seat of the pants engineering". Both are great talents to be sure... but they often are at odds on how approach a given set of issues.
In this case, something has gone south and back tracking the steps to see if the amps are still OK (not damaged) and are there any issues in wiring this isolator that have been missed? This may be very time comsuming and you may need some technical help as well.
Swez
montego_27 on 03/13/2005 13:44:47
Gemini,
This may give you a little info on hooking up two batteries and an iso switch.
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/kilby_dual_battery_TJ/index.asp
gearhead on 03/13/2005 16:01:02
One thing to keep in mind also. Unless you know how to read each particular battery manufacturers coding system. your chance of getting 2 batteries that are the same age isn't guaranteed just because you buy them on the same date at the same store. We ordered 300 Group 31's once (all AC Delco), and the manufacture date variance in that order was 18 mos.!
15-11-1988 on 03/14/2005 01:07:07
Sorry but i am a little lost here, the batterys have to be the same brand, type and age?? Firstly one battery is about 1 year old and is just a standard type normal size and the other is new and a huge deep cicle, i was under the impression the this is the way it is ment to be run the instructions from the relay icolator seemed to lean that way aswell, as theroyeticly voltage should not be effected when running a relay icolator but i will get a voltmeter just to check.
The relay icolator is a 4*4 and marine called "Maton easy fit dual battery kit" It clams to be a voltage sensitive relay
The amps were bench tested today and the boss was faulty (again) so if all goes to plan i will get an identical amp to the sound storm one.
The alt is standard 55 amp, but planning to upgrade to a 100amp.
Is there anything that i can run on the lines that will disconnect it more than 12volt is going threw?
montego_27 on 03/14/2005 05:40:33
They only need to be the same if you are not using an iso switch, and you are just running them in parallel.
I don't understand your last question can you clarify it a little.
swez on 03/14/2005 08:07:25
The isolator is usually made to monitor loading on each battery and will switch charging duties from A to B or both batteries, depending on the design of the kit used.
Ideally, your primary start battery will become fully charged in a few minutes after starting the engine. After that, the isolator can look at voltage/current needs of Aux BAT and allocate charging duties to meet that need. Some isolators have the ability to charge both BATs simultanously. This may not be the best strategy for your set up. An A/B system is better suited to a small ALT system.
If I were to guess... your Boss amp took a dive due to lack of sufficient power. This is very hard on a power supply within the amp, when voltage drops below 12 volts. When this happens, the amp will try to make up the difference by demanding more current from the electricals. This often damages the amp. (lack of adequate amps/volts)
Most car circuits can survive low voltage conditions at the expense of diminished performance. (Ie: headlight dimming, poor engine performance, ECM data issues etc.) Once a vehicle hits approximately 10.5 volts output from the ALT/BAT, the engine will usually shutdown and require a jump start and then trickle charging the BAT(s) over night. If this become a chronic issue, the start/run battery will often die in a few months due to abuse. They cannot take very many deep discharge events before they give up and die. Deep cycle batteries can handle many cycles of deep discharge events and survive a long time.
In short, the present electrical system (55A ALT) is way too small to power the car functions and a pair of medium duty amplifiers as well. This is why your amps are going out. If the situation persists, your ALT and start battery will probably die as well. I highly recommend that you calculate the current draw on both amps used and add ~40A more to the new ALT. Look at the fuse values on both amps. Add them together and then add an additional 40-50A additional output to meet electrical needs of the entire system.
For now, use the Deep cycle BAT as your primary start/run storage device and plan on getting a matching one for your amps later. The isolator kit will be effective in power management to both car and audio BAT system needs later. Upgrade the ALT as noted ASAP. It will probably not last much longer and you can save the present start/run BAT as a bench test power source.
Hope that clarifies things,
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/15/2005 03:37:52
The relay icolator is aparently ment to close at 13.7volts and open at 13.2volts so it connects the batterys at 13.7 so that alt charge can be shared between 2 batterys the cranking battery [small one] is already charged so the alt power goes to the deep cicle. Is this correct??
The neew amp is in now and its the same as the sound storm, so now i have twin sound storm amps, the plan is to run one for the left and one for the right, they have 220watt rms per chennel [4 chennels per amp] so the plan is to run 2 chennels bridged for 1 sub [pioneer 15inch] and 1 chennel for the 6*9s and the splits as 1 chennel each would be to much power for them. and visa virsa for the other side.
15-11-1988 on 03/15/2005 03:50:11
15-11-1988 on 03/15/2005 03:57:55
So let me get this right the way i am running the 2 batterys and The relay icolator [that beeing 1 small cranking battery and 1 huge deep cicle] wont work i have to run 2 huge deep cicles, if this is correct please explane why because i dont quiet under stand it. And i need to upgrade the alt to about 140 amp, amps have 50amp fuses so 100 add 40 is 140 that sounds pretty big.
15-11-1988 on 03/16/2005 04:29:45
Is is possible that the alt is to big for my car and its electronics?? iIhave been told that a 200amp alt is $200AUS and is easy to put in my car and im asuming that that would be best because the batterys would charge quick.
swez on 03/16/2005 08:31:56
That's a pretty good price for a 200A ALT. Definitely a good option for a dual BAT system.
Too much for your car electricals? Nope... the various electricals in your car will only draw as much power (volts/current) as they need to operate efficiently. The rest will be used to fill the BATs to full capacity and then the regulator will tell the ALT to drop/raise output power to meet load demands.
With an ALT of that size, can do well with a single strong BAT too and no need for a 2 BAT system. Yes, can use dual BAT's if you wish, but 1 strong BAT (850 CCA or higher) will do the job with a 200A ALT.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/18/2005 08:30:29
The main reason i put two batterys in is so that i could run the amps and neons and any other acc off the deep cicle till its relitivly flat but still start the car no worrys with the cranking battery, but im still quiet confused on weather its going to work this way as im still unsure if i can have one small bat and 1 huge deep cicle??
swez on 03/18/2005 19:02:30
Do you have a technical link on that isolator noted earlier. Will have a look at it and make a few suggestions.
Depending on how this isolator alloctates charging duties to each BAT, you may have little difficulty using what you have now. The primary concern I can see, need to have enough ALT power to replenish the deep cycle BAT in a timely fasshion w/o overloading the stock ALT.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/18/2005 19:21:23
If buy the "technical link on that isolator noted earlier" you mean the instalation instructions yes i have them but they are very unclear on what type of batterys can be used, the only information i really got from them is that it can handle 140amps and that it closes at 13.7volts and opens at 13.2volts.
It did state that the aux battery could be a deep cicle but did not say anything about the cranking battery i asumed that the way i hooked it up was the way it was ment to be done [small cranking and big deep cicle]
15-11-1988 on 03/18/2005 22:08:35
Im planning to put my amps back into the car today[ twin sound storm 2 ch] But i have got a different set up plannned os the old one[boss amp] because the sound storm is more powerfull [220w rms per chennel] and because there is a remote sub controll for chennels 3 and 4 on each amp what im planning to do is run one amp for left splits, 6*9, and left sub and the other amp for the right splits,6*9 and right sub.
Do many people do this and how good is it??
And as i mentond above it has 220w rms per chenel so if i ran 1 chennel for a 6*9 and 1 chennel for the splits i would be getting 220w rms to 50w rms speakers which im guessing would do a fair bit of damage so what i had in mind is running spits and 6*9 off 1 chennel which whould have 220w rms and 500w max from the amp and 50+50w rms and 400w max which i asume will be ok because the amps will not get to max,
Does this set up sound right??
And for the spare chennel im not running which is ch 1 [ch 3,4 brigded for sub and ch 2 for splits 6*9s] do i just leave it with no rca input and will it be bad for my amps having an unused chennel??
Victor on 03/19/2005 02:07:30
A seperate amp for Left and right is possible..
But then your subs will not put out the MONO Sound,
There are instances when an Amp is used only for a single channel.. also there are instances when each driver (in the seperates) the tweeter and the MB are run on dedicated amps..
Victor...
swez on 03/19/2005 19:07:16
Since you have so much power available to the front speakers and they can only handle 50 Wrms per set, you have only a few options to protect your speakers from excess wattage.
1. What model HU are you using now and what are it's RCA line voltage ratings?
2. What model SStorm amps are you using now?
As I see it, there are a few ways to knock down the power output to your front Comps. After more details on your gear, will try to come up with a few options for you.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/20/2005 03:43:24
The head unit is a 2004 pioneer the one with the blue screen and green buttons the model number is DEH-P465OMP i dont know what voltage the rca is, when i first installed the sustem there was a pop when ever i turned it off, so i posted on this forum and was told to turn gains down gains and shorten the rca cabes as there was alot of slack once i did that there was no worrys,
The way i have the rcas at the moment is left is split into 2 then 1 of the 2 is put into ch 1 and the other left is split again and so now there is 3 from the left and these 2 go into ch 3and4 as the sub input and visa virsa for the right.
The sound storm amps are D500.4
The way i am running it at the moment is as i planned to ch 1 has both 6*9s and splits running off it in parallel and subs for ch3and4.
And chennel 2 has no rca going into it and nothing running off it, is this ok or bad for my system?
Couldnt i just run another set of speakers like a pair of 6" 3 ways in the back doors and run them also of ch1 with the splits and 6*9s to lower the wattage output??
I have not yet ran my newly installed system [installed today] with the engine going and the relay isolater connected because im am scared that i will stuff up somthing like what happened with the boss amp, do you think it is safe to fire up the car and the system or not???
swez on 03/20/2005 09:47:28
It would be a good idea to run 1 channel to front slits and install rear speakers for the rear channels off that amp. Use the 2nd SStorm in bridge mode (2 channels) to a pair of subs that net a 4 ohm load per sub.
I cannot find RCA voltage specs on that HU as it is made for out of USA markets like Mexico and AU. Your owners manual should have the specs on that part on the specifications page.
Also, how many RCA outputs does this unit have? If only 1 pair (2 RCA's) a line driver/EQ will help a good deal with signal distribution to all amp inputs and you can eliminate some of the Y adapters for more voltage into each amp.
Audiobahn makes a nice mid-level line driver/ Parametric EQ woth a max of 8 volts output. It only requires a left and right channel signal input and splits to 6 output channels with separated bass and full range audio output controls. It's pretty compact and can be installed in dash or other handy locations. They can be had for under $70.00 (USD) off e-bay and adds a great deal of flexibility to your system.
http://www.thezeb.com/p-Audiobahn-AEQ6Q-Equalizer-100317.htm
Swez
It worked fine last night but since i tryed with today nothing will work and i dont see how the relay icolator could have caused it.
The first boss ba2900 had this problem that beeing is suddenly stoped one day i got a replacement and it worked fine until now.
So can anyone give me advice and things that i could try to get it working again.
Replies (25)
Victor on 03/13/2005 04:06:24
i guess the problem is with the way you have wired the batteries, by mistake u must have wired them for 24V instead of 12V, no wonder everything stopped working..
15-11-1988 on 03/13/2005 04:45:56
That was the first thing i checked, and wouldnt every fuse in the car blow. And i also tryed both amps with the relay icolator disconneced and still no go.
Victor on 03/13/2005 04:53:49
thats all i cud think of at this moment.. will have to give it a thought, also let other experts comment on this. will get back to you once i figure it out.
montego_27 on 03/13/2005 07:07:10
This sounds like when you re-directed the power leads something has shorted within those lines. Or it could be a faulty isolator or your wiring configuration w/ the isolator.( Is it a marine type isolator? Those work pretty well) It shouldn't make a difference wiring two batteries up directly in "parallel" ,however,both of those batteries have to be identical, and of the same age.One other question, did you configure a continous duty selenoid w/ this set-up.The last thing is, Boss amps have a history of electrical issues and it may be prove difficult to configure different power set-ups with.
gearhead on 03/13/2005 11:38:10
"...however,both of those batteries have to be identical, and of the same age."
Huh? I've worked on class 8 trucks for over 30yrs. I've never replaced all the batteries when only one was bad, and don't know anybody else that has either. I've also had trucks with 2- 6v batteries wired in series on one side, 2- 12v batteries wired in parallel on the other side, and the 2- 6v batteries wired in parallel with the 2- 12v batteries. Never had any problems, never even checked the manufacture date unless it was for warranty purposes.
ttocs on 03/13/2005 12:56:10
have you tried a voltmeter to see what you are getting out of them? Have you upgraded the alt?
swez on 03/13/2005 13:06:53
I think there are two differing aspects to this equation.
One mentality is to get the trucks back in service as soon as possible and at minimal cost. Have worked in a factory environ where hi-lo's and other electrical/mechanical work trucks were in constant use and had no set maintain schedules. When it went down, they were towed to our shop and repaired ASAP and sent back into the factory. It was pretty much shoot from the hip repair services... but it worked for the bulk of machines we serviced and had to turn around in short order. Not the best approach... but it worked!
In other cases, more complex machines we serviced needed sensors, electrical parts and such that were all kitted together. A service pack kinda deal. We replaces the sensors, the wire harnesses and drive motors, all at one swipe. Costly, time consuming to be sure. But, very effective as all worked together well.
All that said, the shot gun approach to some things are more than adequate. However, there are times when a "dig deeper" approach is needed. It seems like Tego understands that from prior experiences. On the other side of the ledger, Gear knows the value of "seat of the pants engineering". Both are great talents to be sure... but they often are at odds on how approach a given set of issues.
In this case, something has gone south and back tracking the steps to see if the amps are still OK (not damaged) and are there any issues in wiring this isolator that have been missed? This may be very time comsuming and you may need some technical help as well.
Swez
montego_27 on 03/13/2005 13:44:47
Gemini,
This may give you a little info on hooking up two batteries and an iso switch.
http://www.rockcrawler.com/techreports/kilby_dual_battery_TJ/index.asp
gearhead on 03/13/2005 16:01:02
One thing to keep in mind also. Unless you know how to read each particular battery manufacturers coding system. your chance of getting 2 batteries that are the same age isn't guaranteed just because you buy them on the same date at the same store. We ordered 300 Group 31's once (all AC Delco), and the manufacture date variance in that order was 18 mos.!
15-11-1988 on 03/14/2005 01:07:07
Sorry but i am a little lost here, the batterys have to be the same brand, type and age?? Firstly one battery is about 1 year old and is just a standard type normal size and the other is new and a huge deep cicle, i was under the impression the this is the way it is ment to be run the instructions from the relay icolator seemed to lean that way aswell, as theroyeticly voltage should not be effected when running a relay icolator but i will get a voltmeter just to check.
The relay icolator is a 4*4 and marine called "Maton easy fit dual battery kit" It clams to be a voltage sensitive relay
The amps were bench tested today and the boss was faulty (again) so if all goes to plan i will get an identical amp to the sound storm one.
The alt is standard 55 amp, but planning to upgrade to a 100amp.
Is there anything that i can run on the lines that will disconnect it more than 12volt is going threw?
montego_27 on 03/14/2005 05:40:33
They only need to be the same if you are not using an iso switch, and you are just running them in parallel.
I don't understand your last question can you clarify it a little.
swez on 03/14/2005 08:07:25
The isolator is usually made to monitor loading on each battery and will switch charging duties from A to B or both batteries, depending on the design of the kit used.
Ideally, your primary start battery will become fully charged in a few minutes after starting the engine. After that, the isolator can look at voltage/current needs of Aux BAT and allocate charging duties to meet that need. Some isolators have the ability to charge both BATs simultanously. This may not be the best strategy for your set up. An A/B system is better suited to a small ALT system.
If I were to guess... your Boss amp took a dive due to lack of sufficient power. This is very hard on a power supply within the amp, when voltage drops below 12 volts. When this happens, the amp will try to make up the difference by demanding more current from the electricals. This often damages the amp. (lack of adequate amps/volts)
Most car circuits can survive low voltage conditions at the expense of diminished performance. (Ie: headlight dimming, poor engine performance, ECM data issues etc.) Once a vehicle hits approximately 10.5 volts output from the ALT/BAT, the engine will usually shutdown and require a jump start and then trickle charging the BAT(s) over night. If this become a chronic issue, the start/run battery will often die in a few months due to abuse. They cannot take very many deep discharge events before they give up and die. Deep cycle batteries can handle many cycles of deep discharge events and survive a long time.
In short, the present electrical system (55A ALT) is way too small to power the car functions and a pair of medium duty amplifiers as well. This is why your amps are going out. If the situation persists, your ALT and start battery will probably die as well. I highly recommend that you calculate the current draw on both amps used and add ~40A more to the new ALT. Look at the fuse values on both amps. Add them together and then add an additional 40-50A additional output to meet electrical needs of the entire system.
For now, use the Deep cycle BAT as your primary start/run storage device and plan on getting a matching one for your amps later. The isolator kit will be effective in power management to both car and audio BAT system needs later. Upgrade the ALT as noted ASAP. It will probably not last much longer and you can save the present start/run BAT as a bench test power source.
Hope that clarifies things,
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/15/2005 03:37:52
The relay icolator is aparently ment to close at 13.7volts and open at 13.2volts so it connects the batterys at 13.7 so that alt charge can be shared between 2 batterys the cranking battery [small one] is already charged so the alt power goes to the deep cicle. Is this correct??
The neew amp is in now and its the same as the sound storm, so now i have twin sound storm amps, the plan is to run one for the left and one for the right, they have 220watt rms per chennel [4 chennels per amp] so the plan is to run 2 chennels bridged for 1 sub [pioneer 15inch] and 1 chennel for the 6*9s and the splits as 1 chennel each would be to much power for them. and visa virsa for the other side.
15-11-1988 on 03/15/2005 03:50:11
15-11-1988 on 03/15/2005 03:57:55
So let me get this right the way i am running the 2 batterys and The relay icolator [that beeing 1 small cranking battery and 1 huge deep cicle] wont work i have to run 2 huge deep cicles, if this is correct please explane why because i dont quiet under stand it. And i need to upgrade the alt to about 140 amp, amps have 50amp fuses so 100 add 40 is 140 that sounds pretty big.
15-11-1988 on 03/16/2005 04:29:45
Is is possible that the alt is to big for my car and its electronics?? iIhave been told that a 200amp alt is $200AUS and is easy to put in my car and im asuming that that would be best because the batterys would charge quick.
swez on 03/16/2005 08:31:56
That's a pretty good price for a 200A ALT. Definitely a good option for a dual BAT system.
Too much for your car electricals? Nope... the various electricals in your car will only draw as much power (volts/current) as they need to operate efficiently. The rest will be used to fill the BATs to full capacity and then the regulator will tell the ALT to drop/raise output power to meet load demands.
With an ALT of that size, can do well with a single strong BAT too and no need for a 2 BAT system. Yes, can use dual BAT's if you wish, but 1 strong BAT (850 CCA or higher) will do the job with a 200A ALT.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/18/2005 08:30:29
The main reason i put two batterys in is so that i could run the amps and neons and any other acc off the deep cicle till its relitivly flat but still start the car no worrys with the cranking battery, but im still quiet confused on weather its going to work this way as im still unsure if i can have one small bat and 1 huge deep cicle??
swez on 03/18/2005 19:02:30
Do you have a technical link on that isolator noted earlier. Will have a look at it and make a few suggestions.
Depending on how this isolator alloctates charging duties to each BAT, you may have little difficulty using what you have now. The primary concern I can see, need to have enough ALT power to replenish the deep cycle BAT in a timely fasshion w/o overloading the stock ALT.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/18/2005 19:21:23
If buy the "technical link on that isolator noted earlier" you mean the instalation instructions yes i have them but they are very unclear on what type of batterys can be used, the only information i really got from them is that it can handle 140amps and that it closes at 13.7volts and opens at 13.2volts.
It did state that the aux battery could be a deep cicle but did not say anything about the cranking battery i asumed that the way i hooked it up was the way it was ment to be done [small cranking and big deep cicle]
15-11-1988 on 03/18/2005 22:08:35
Im planning to put my amps back into the car today[ twin sound storm 2 ch] But i have got a different set up plannned os the old one[boss amp] because the sound storm is more powerfull [220w rms per chennel] and because there is a remote sub controll for chennels 3 and 4 on each amp what im planning to do is run one amp for left splits, 6*9, and left sub and the other amp for the right splits,6*9 and right sub.
Do many people do this and how good is it??
And as i mentond above it has 220w rms per chenel so if i ran 1 chennel for a 6*9 and 1 chennel for the splits i would be getting 220w rms to 50w rms speakers which im guessing would do a fair bit of damage so what i had in mind is running spits and 6*9 off 1 chennel which whould have 220w rms and 500w max from the amp and 50+50w rms and 400w max which i asume will be ok because the amps will not get to max,
Does this set up sound right??
And for the spare chennel im not running which is ch 1 [ch 3,4 brigded for sub and ch 2 for splits 6*9s] do i just leave it with no rca input and will it be bad for my amps having an unused chennel??
Victor on 03/19/2005 02:07:30
A seperate amp for Left and right is possible..
But then your subs will not put out the MONO Sound,
There are instances when an Amp is used only for a single channel.. also there are instances when each driver (in the seperates) the tweeter and the MB are run on dedicated amps..
Victor...
swez on 03/19/2005 19:07:16
Since you have so much power available to the front speakers and they can only handle 50 Wrms per set, you have only a few options to protect your speakers from excess wattage.
1. What model HU are you using now and what are it's RCA line voltage ratings?
2. What model SStorm amps are you using now?
As I see it, there are a few ways to knock down the power output to your front Comps. After more details on your gear, will try to come up with a few options for you.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 03/20/2005 03:43:24
The head unit is a 2004 pioneer the one with the blue screen and green buttons the model number is DEH-P465OMP i dont know what voltage the rca is, when i first installed the sustem there was a pop when ever i turned it off, so i posted on this forum and was told to turn gains down gains and shorten the rca cabes as there was alot of slack once i did that there was no worrys,
The way i have the rcas at the moment is left is split into 2 then 1 of the 2 is put into ch 1 and the other left is split again and so now there is 3 from the left and these 2 go into ch 3and4 as the sub input and visa virsa for the right.
The sound storm amps are D500.4
The way i am running it at the moment is as i planned to ch 1 has both 6*9s and splits running off it in parallel and subs for ch3and4.
And chennel 2 has no rca going into it and nothing running off it, is this ok or bad for my system?
Couldnt i just run another set of speakers like a pair of 6" 3 ways in the back doors and run them also of ch1 with the splits and 6*9s to lower the wattage output??
I have not yet ran my newly installed system [installed today] with the engine going and the relay isolater connected because im am scared that i will stuff up somthing like what happened with the boss amp, do you think it is safe to fire up the car and the system or not???
swez on 03/20/2005 09:47:28
It would be a good idea to run 1 channel to front slits and install rear speakers for the rear channels off that amp. Use the 2nd SStorm in bridge mode (2 channels) to a pair of subs that net a 4 ohm load per sub.
I cannot find RCA voltage specs on that HU as it is made for out of USA markets like Mexico and AU. Your owners manual should have the specs on that part on the specifications page.
Also, how many RCA outputs does this unit have? If only 1 pair (2 RCA's) a line driver/EQ will help a good deal with signal distribution to all amp inputs and you can eliminate some of the Y adapters for more voltage into each amp.
Audiobahn makes a nice mid-level line driver/ Parametric EQ woth a max of 8 volts output. It only requires a left and right channel signal input and splits to 6 output channels with separated bass and full range audio output controls. It's pretty compact and can be installed in dash or other handy locations. They can be had for under $70.00 (USD) off e-bay and adds a great deal of flexibility to your system.
http://www.thezeb.com/p-Audiobahn-AEQ6Q-Equalizer-100317.htm
Swez
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