Hello Everyone
I am new to this forum and it is nice to see it is not full of brand bashers. I spent some time in other forums and that is what I saw the most. There was not a lot of information being shared, just bashing. I have been looking at a lot of the posts on this forum and had many of my questions answered. Thanks again.
I do have a question. Do you think a newbee could install a complete upgrade by himself, or would he probably need some help? I am interested in SQ instead of SPL. My musical tastes are anything from Megadeth to Patsy Cline. I have a 2001 Mustang GT.
When I talk of an upgrade it would include the following:
New HU
Component set for front.
New speakers for the rear deck.
2 10” or 2 12” subs. (About 300WRMS)
4 channel amp for mid’s and hi’s.
1 mono amp for the subs.
All wiring and mounting accessories.
Should I attempt an upgrade like this with limited knowledge or seek professional help.
Thanks again,
Ron
Replies (32)
uochronos on 03/1/2005 21:08:20
Its a question of do you feel up to the task... You can defiantly do it but it well be a good deal of work... We can walk you threw most of it... the amps are probaly the hardest part running and hiding all the wires...
I can tell you that if you have a install like that done its going to run you quite a bit... installing 1 amp from the local dealer here runs about 100$ give or take... Speakers, Amps, Subs, and HU all together your probaly looking at 400$+ to haev it installed.. thats a etimate mattering alot of things it could be more.
Doing it yourself this big of an upgrade well probaly take at least a full day if its your first install.
If your willing to invest the time i say go for it yourself. I hate to spend money myself on things i could have done.
we can walk you threw any trouble areas you have.
Chronos
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 21:31:00
Te reason that I would like to do it myself is that there are four pro installers in my area. I have gotten prices between $2,800 and $4,200. That seems like a lot of money. I have had the more expensive of the four do an install for me before. It sounded very good in my opinion. It was in a P/U truck. I had them install a new HU in my winter ride last week (1992 Eldorado) and I was not happy with the install. Just don’t like the sound or looks. That’s why I thought I might be able to try it myself.
My Mustang is currently in storage. I live in Erie, PA and got 12 inches of snow in the last two days. You say it would probably take a full day. I figure with my knowledge it will be a couple day project, but I would like to try it. My Mustang is my summer fun car and could sit in the garage for a few days. I am currently doing research right now. In my area there is only one shop that seems to keep the same brand names, Boston Acoustics & JL. Both are very high priced.
I have seen on this forum that many people use many different brands of equipment in the same vehicle. Is there a problem with using one brand for all of your equipment?
Victor on 03/1/2005 22:25:48
Using many brands together or , all the equipments of the same brand, what matters is how you match the specs and install them.
It is said in the inner circles of Car Audio experts that Car Audio is all about 30% product selection and 70% installation. To make the most out of your expensive car audio gear you need to assure the best installation.
That’s why I suggest most of the people to either install themselves (if they know all about installations, or they can get expert to show the right way) or get it done by an authorized professional installer.
Experts on thsi forum can help you decide upon a complete range of products, guide you buy it for a good price , Walk you through the installation and help you tweak the system for optimum performance, all you need to do is spare some time, do some hard work installing and pay for the products and material..hehe
the reason for using different equipments from different brands is that not many manufacturers make good products in all categories, some make nice HU's some make excellent amps, some make SQ subs while some make pounding SPL subs, etc..
Only a very few companies make all of them good, and the ones that do will cost a lot.
If you can properly configure a system, and integrate different equipments from different manufaturers then it is definitely going to sound great.
How about filling up this small form and posting it up so that you can give us a better idea of what exactly your system can be.
1- NAME
2- CONTACT DETAILS- address, phone numbers, cell numbers, email address etc..
3- CAR - Year/ Make / Model / Modifications if any.
4- STOCK SYSTEM - yes / no, if yes then specify the details.
5- ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - Stock / upgraded , specify the details of the battery and the alt in both the cases.
6- AIM - SQ / SQL / SPL.
7- COMPONENTS TO BUY -
8- COMPONENTS TO INSTALL -
9- KIND OF MUSIC YOU LISTEN TO -
10- LIKES/ DIS_LIKES - looks, particular product, particular details etc.
11- BUYING OPTIONS - Retailer / e-tailer, new / refurbished.
12- SELF INSTALL / INSTALLER -
13- COMPETITION - If you are competing in any competition, specify is any.
14- BUDGET - Please specify the lower and the upper limit you are willing to pay, for a product or for a list of products you have specified above.
15- OTHER - Please specify any other specific need if any.
PLEASE BE VERY SPECIFIC AND TRUTHFUL IN FILLING UP THE FORM, REMEMBER THIS IS A FREE ADVICE SITE AND THE EXPERTS WORKING HERE ARE PROVIDING VOLUNTARY SERVICE.
Help us help you.
Comments...??
Victor...
UKinstaller on 03/1/2005 22:46:05
you can do the radio with limited knowledge, and probably the two amps. the only thing that i usually never recommend to beginners is components, unless you've already got components in there and you are just swapping them out. components can be a real pain in the ass, especially if you have to mount the tweeter.
other than that, i say do what you feel comfortable with. save $52 and do the radio yourself.
circuit city prices:
radio: $50
components: $50
speakers: $35
amp/sub: $60
4 channel amp: $75
so you're looking at around $265 in labor, plus parts. you'll need about $100 in parts to do all that if you shop real well. do NOT get your wires from a big store like CC, get them on the internet and save MORE THAN HALF. seriously, CC and best buy jack the bejesus out of their wire prices.
but yeah you can definitely, bare minimum, do the radio.
-UK
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 23:22:48
Hello Victor
Here is the information you requested. I am looking for a SQ system. I have gone to the local pro installers and have listened to some equipment. There is only one installer that seems to have the same brand when I visit. I do not know if the other installers are carrying better brands, or trying to make more money. The installer that has carried the same brands for about 7 years now caries well known brand names. The brands they carry are about $800 for a 6.5 component and $450 for a 10” sub. This is for the brands more expensive line. I was quoted around $4,000 for a complete install. That is above my budget. That is why I would like to try the install myself.
NAME – Ron
2- CONTACT DETAILS - ron0616@adelphia.net
CAR - 2001 Ford Mustang Coupe
STOCK SYSTEM - Yes stock system
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - Stock battery and alt
AIM – SQ. I am 37 years old and do not want to wake up my neighbors at night.
COMPONENTS TO BUY – Haven’t bought anything yet. My car is currently packed away in storage till sometime in April/May. I have just started doing research.
HU (preferably Pioneer MP3 with bass/mid/treble adjustments)
6.5 component front speakers (Maybe kick panels. My car is a 5 speed so I have limited room)
New rear deck speakers. (Open for suggestions)
2 10” or 1 12” sub for trunk. (The mustang has a very small and strange trunk.)
1 four channel amp for hi and mid’s
1 mono amp for subs.
If a five channel would work better please give you’re opinion.
For a 300WRMS sub install would I have to Dynomat my whole car?
8- COMPONENTS TO INSTALL – All. If this is an option for a beginner.
9- KIND OF MUSIC YOU LISTEN TO – Megadeth to Patsy Cline. A little rap/hip-hop, but not much. Are 2 10” subs more practical for this type of music than 12’s.)
10- LIKES/ DIS_LIKES – I like Pioneer head units. Open for suggestions on the other. I am looking for a clean install. I do not need the most elaborate install appearance wise.
11- BUYING OPTIONS - Retailer / e-tailer, new (I have never used E-Bay)
12- SELF INSTALL / INSTALLER – Preferably a self install. I have limited knowledge though. If I run into some problems I may need some professional help.
13- COMPETITION – No competition, just personal satisfaction.
14- BUDGET – Hopefully between $1,500 and $2,000 if this is a reasonable price range.)
Hopefully this info will help.
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 23:30:56
Hello UK
I would like to do the install myself. If I ad a component set to the doors is the difficulty in placing the actual component somewhere? Or is the difficulty locating the tweeter?
If I was to add a kick panel is it still difficult to ad a 6.5 component set to the front. From the information I have gathered kick panels are the preference for SQ. I have a 5 speed so I do not have a lot of foot space. A Mustang is pretty tight for space to begin with.
Thanks
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 23:32:19
Hello Guys
I have 4 hours till I have to get up for work. I will have to continue this tomarrow.
Ron
Victor on 03/1/2005 23:55:21
Hey Ron, Thanks a lot for that info, that will help us help u in a better way.
Seems you are pretty clear about what you want and what not. Thats a good point, I dont think you will need much guidance except a few difficulties while installing.
That budget you go there of 2000$ max is a good one for a nice SQL ( mix of SQ and SPL ) system.
First lets start with budget allocation to each component.This is just allocating the Max possible expenditure, definitely you will be able to find better deals.
HU : 350$
Amps : 250$ for the 4 ch atleast giving >80wrms to each channel.
another 250$ for the Monoblock a 2ohm/1ohm stable digital amp giving 400-600wrms at acceptable loads.
Line driver/EQ (optional) : 200$
Front Components : 300$
Rear Components/coaxials : 150$
Sub/s : 350$ either 2 x 10" or a 400-500wrms 12" single sub.
Wiring : 100$
Box Building : 100$
Sound Deadning : 100$
Time : 1-3 days.
Note: this is the Max amount stated. The actual expenses will definitely be lower. There shall be no need of any electrical upgrade since you are not going to setup a SPL system.
Also sound deadning your vehicle is not only for SPL purposes, or related to RMS output, It is necessary to isolate the inner environment of the car from outside noise interferences, also it reduces the resonance of the metal. It decreases rattling and other noises - a 400wrms+ output should not be underestimated, it can make ur car vibrate good. Also If your aim is for an SQ system then it becomes more necessary for an interference free acoustic environment in your car.
There are a lot more cheaper procuts then dynamat and very effective too.
Well that comes after we agree upon the components and start looking to buy them, we got people here who spend hours shopping on e-bay and other sites, they will definitely help you get a great deal.
Another advice i wud give you, since u are setting up a completely new system and got a decent budget, i would recommend not buying a used or a refurb when you can buy a new product for an equally good price.
thats it for now, after more input from you and others we shall proceed towards the next step.
comments...??
Victor...
UKinstaller on 03/1/2005 23:59:57
big ron,
kick panels are wonderful for imaging and so forth. that would be ideal, and yes you could do the install much easier if you got those. you don't have to mess with the door at all. the hardest part there is mounting them, which is usually just a couple screws.
if you're aiming for SQL, and i know that the mustang trunk is small and funky shaped, i personally would do a single 12'. i put an alpine type-r 12 inch sub in a sealed box in a 2002 mustang about 3 days ago, and it sounded wonderful. it had a 350w RMS amp pushing it. it sounded good, but definitely won't wake the neighbors.
rear deck speakers in that car are cake to do. very easy. limited disassembly required.
-UK
Victor on 03/2/2005 00:11:38
hehe.. And by the way, some members on CK are professionals, some have been or at present are in the business of Car audio, some are great installers, some have had the experience of a lifetime in Car audio, some are great online buyers, some are self taught critics, some are "JUST" critics-hehe...
So u got a good mix of people here, since u are here i guess you wont need to go anywhere else for Car audio.
The Advice you will get here will be tried and tested quality stuff..
Everyone here is best in his field. Dont worry. Probably the next post you make wud be "I am on CK, I DONT need Professionals Help..??"
hehe..
Wish you best luck .
Victor...
UKinstaller on 03/2/2005 00:39:00
well said.
-UK
swez on 03/2/2005 05:24:48
Ron,
Name is Swez... we have a fine group of talent here. You came to a beginner's friendly site. We are a team. Some are Pro installers, great shoppers for the best deals, system design and configuration options and how to do it. In short, our collective talants will meet your needs, if your handy and creative with tools and mechanicals.
As for brands... there are many great choices available at very good prices off e-tail sites we can share with you. Buy the best speakers you can afford as these are the soul of any great sound system. Some of the better ones we recomemend are:
CDT, Alpine Type R or S components, Infinity Kappa series and many more.
As for subs, if you can fit a single 12" woofer in the back, facing the rear bumper, that will work nicely. Do you have ~16" of height, under the rear deck? If yes, a single 12" sub will do the job. Will only need about 1.2 - 1.5 cf of trunk space for a single 12. If you prefer dual 10's, need a minimum height of ~13", but more width for this arrangement. (~26" min. width) Alpine, Infinity, e-Designs and many more can be had for under $150.00 per sub.
Amping: There are many great amps out there too. Can use a 4 channel and mono sub amp or a potent 5 channel will do it all as well. Depending on how much power you want, quality and features on the amps you choose, will dictate the price. Many great brands out there too. Alpine, Infinity, JL, JBL, Phoenix Gold, Rockford Fosgate are all pretty good choices. There are many lesser known brands that can do the job well and cheaper. Depends on your budget.
OK, that's an overview of what we will be showing you as the research process continues. Planning well, is the friend you have. Take your time, weigh out the options and go listen to some products you may wish to purchase. The team will be here to help. Just note we all have different levels of experience with various product lines and personal favorites. Not that we are conflicting in our recommendations. More like going with what we know best.
Welcome to CK,
Swez
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 09:43:05
Hello Everyone
Thanks for the help so far. I have now started somewhat of a shopping list. I have to go compare options for my HU at the local shop before I decide on a particular model. Comparing HU’s on Pioneer’s web page I am leaning toward the Pioneer DEH-P670MP.
If I use a 6.5 component set for my front. What is the recommended setup for the rear deck? I would like an opinion on a two-way compared to dedicated midbass.
Is the a big difference between dash kits. Some of the name I have heard include Metra, Best Kits and Scosche?
Ron
ttocs on 03/2/2005 11:17:26
I am a big mustang fan but not totally familiar with the '01's interior. After working on many the hardest parts are getting the doors off(takes a little patients), and getting the rear speakers out. All the trim panels from the doors back has to come out.
More then likely it has a premium JBL system that you will need to bypass to get a descent sound of of. There was an easy way on prior models and hopefully on yours as well....
As for dash kits the only one that I would recommend staying away from is AI-american international. Them make some descent kits but they also make a universal kit that is more like a puzzle...
Rear speakers are up to you, depends on how much rear fill you want.
UKinstaller on 03/2/2005 13:52:54
i would go with the metra kit myself. i think for an 01 mustang it comes with a pocket. how big is your factory radio??
-UK
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 19:18:29
Hello Everyone
Once again I cannot thank everyone enough for their input.
Hello Swez
Thanks for the information on the ~dimensions of the sub box. There is about 16” from the trunk floor to a plastic cover underneath the rear speakers.I cannot measure right now cause my car is in storage, but I am saving all of this informatin to use at a later time. This cover can be removed. I believe I gain a little more room. If I go with a 12” sub I believe I could always angle the front edge. That would lower the height of the enclosure I believe. If anyone thinks an angled enclosure is a bad idea please let me know?
Here are the subs that I may choose for my setup. Alpine has been recommended as a good sub for sound quality.
2 Alpine SWR-1042D 10" Type-R Series Subwoofer (4ohm + 4ohm) 500WRMS or
1 Alpine SWR-1242D 12" Type-R Series Subwoofer (4ohm + 4ohm) 500WRMS
As far as an amp I am still searching. I have not been able to locate a 5-channel amp that would be able to put out enough power. I think I may need 2 separate amps. 1 for mid’s / high’s and a mono amp for the subs. Still researching RMS power and voltage ratings.
Ron
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 19:19:04
Hello ttocs
The Mustang interior removal was something I was worried about. I came across a web page that explains my Mach460 sound system in good detail.
www.flemworld.com
Hopefully if I am patient the removal process should go smoothly. I understand I may have to replace a few clips here and there.
Thanks for the information on what mounting kit to avoid.
Ron
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 19:19:32
Hello UK
I looked at the Metra kit as a replacement, and it would have the pocket. I have the typical OEM deck. Approximatly 8” x 5”, Double-DIN Size
Sorry if my size guestimate is a little off. I am an armature.
Ron
ttocs on 03/3/2005 08:42:40
that cover in the back has the amps for the mach system as well as covers the 6.5" free-air sub.
Three used to be a hrns behind the radio that was a direct hrns to the speakers. all you had to do was unplug them and wire them in. It looked like the standard ford speaker hrns.
Also remember the trunk opening is VERY small. I built a box for a single ID 12" in my buddiy's '97 and was suprised when it almost didn't fit.....
swez on 03/3/2005 12:04:52
Hi Ron,
Based on ttocs comments of a tight fit for a 12" sub enclosure, may be best to run a pair of 10's back there. I use 2x10's and am well pleased with the performance.
A sub I can definitely suggest, would be:
1. Alpine SWR-1021D (2+2) DVC model
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=500SWR1021&search=alpine&wmsf=1
2. Alpine SWS-1022D (2+2) DVC also
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=500SWS1022&search=alpine&wmsf=1
A little web searching via google, will net some very good prices on either model.
===================================================
Sub amp: Here, we don't have to go too large on the sub amp to obtain adequate SPL. A Class D or T mono amp, 2 ohms stable and power between 300-600 Wrms is plenty. The larger the sub amp, the more current it will draw. Since you will be using a pretty potent 4 channel as well, need to mind the current draw of both amps to avoid ALT/BAT upgrades. (which can get pricey) Here again, can suggest Alpine.
1. Alpine MRP-M350 40A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=130&I=500MRPM350&search=alpine&wmsf=1
2. Alpine MRD-M501 60A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=130&I=500MRDM501&search=alpine&wmsf=1
Either amp will do a good job for your subs. If you want to shave some costs out of this part of the project, use the Type S subs. They are similar to the Type R, but less power handling. Why pay for 500 watt subs, if you don't need that much HP?
===================================================
As a possible 4 channel power plant again, Alpine has a fine product lineup:
1. Alpine MRV-F345 (75W x 4) 60A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=500MRVF345&search=alpine&wmsf=1
2. Alpine MRV-F340 (55W x 4) 30A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=500MRVF340&search=alpine&wmsf=1
===================================================
Have a look at the links and chew it over a bit before you make a choice. Just remember, that potent 4 channel amp you desire for Comps and rear speakers will use 30-60A of current at full output.
Depending on the sub amp used, looking at the sub amps noted, add 40-60A more in max power consumption. These are max current draw scenarios. At average (reasonably loud) listening levels, figure about 60% of max power is what you will be pulling here.
Do you know the ALT/BAT output specs on this Mustang?
Enough info for now... have a look and give us some additional feedback. Then we can proceed.
Swez
01gtpony on 03/3/2005 19:32:05
Hello ttocs
You mentioned you built a box for you buddy’s 97 mustang and it barely fit. I had built a mock-up box for a pair of 10’s on time. I do not recall what the exact dimensions were, but it would not fit. I resized the box to be approximately 27”L x 16”H x 11”D. The opening behind the rear seat is about 11.5”H. I had a difficult time getting my mock-up into the trunk.
Can you pre fabricate a box and assemble it in the trunk? Or does that make it more difficult?
Ron
01gtpony on 03/3/2005 20:43:38
Hello Swez
Thanks for the links and the information for checking prices.
I checked out the links for the Alpine SWR-1021D (2+2) DVC and the Alpine SWS-1022D (2+2) DVC. I am still pretty new at this and do not now what effect the slight differences in specs would make. I have noticed a few people said the Type R subs were good for accurate bass. Would someone be able to tell the difference by listening to the two of them in a sealed enclosure?
The two subs listed above are 300WRMS. The Alpine SWR-1042D (4ohm + 4ohm) is 500WRMS.
Is 500WRMS overkill for a system that you just want to sound nice when you are just driving around? Also is the 500WRMS where you start to worry about current draw?
The Alpine SWR-1021D (2+2) is 300WRMS at 2 ohms. The Alpine MRD-M501 puts out 550 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. Is that two much for the sub?
An a few post you have recommended the CDT component sets. Also you have recommended Alpine. The CDT HD62s run about $400.00 The Alpine SPS-171A component is about $180.00. In you’re opinion is it worth it to spend the extra $220.00? Both options are open to me. I only get one chance to do this right.
Ron
montego_27 on 03/3/2005 23:11:27
Pony, I have just upgraded my entire system w/ pretty much everything your looking at.Alpine sub amp,Alpine 1021-SWR subs,CDT components,4-channel amp etc..I speak w/ Swez,Victor and Chronos almost every day and all were involved w/ the set-up.E-mail me directly if you'd like ogetnom27@yahoo.com and I'll fill you in on the details as far as best price,who to buy from and who not to,performance of the system etc.... I'm 44 and pretty much also have the same listening taste in music. If you have yahoo IM my name on that is ogetnom27 you can reach me there too.
swez on 03/4/2005 08:08:41
A 500 Wrms amp would be too strong for a single Type S sub. If you elected to use only one sub and the larger Alpine amp, use the Type R version. Or, use the smaller sub amp with a single type S. Either way, will need the 4+4 DVC to get the noted 2 ohms.
If using dual 10's, would be fine to run a pair of Type S subs noted earlier. This pair can be used with either amp. Here, the 2+2 coils are needed to reach a net 2 ohm load.
FYI: Bass output SPL will be about 120 dB with 300 Wrms. If you went to the 550 Wrms amp, add +3 dB. That 120 dB of SPL is a very general number. But, close enough for basic references.
On CDT's, can get the Classic series for $150.00 a pair off Zeb. These are nice and no need to spend too much more than that for high quality Comps.
http://www.thezeb.com/p-CDT-Audio-CL-61A-6-1-2-inch-Component-System-101083.htm
Also, may I suggest shopping for the amps first. Once you have ordered the amps you desire, next will be subs and speakers that match amp power and load ratings.
Finally, if you wish to shave even more costs on the project and still get quality products, hook up with Montego27 for e-bay searches. He's a Master Cheapskate and can find you some excellent deals on preferred products noted so far. We are both on Yahoo IM regularly. Can talk you through many issues, questions and solutions in short order via IM.
My IM at yahoo is: swezdp
Best if you have a microphone on hand, so voice chats are possible. Information exchange is rapid that way and more details can be discused with little typing and waiting for replies.
Swez
ttocs on 03/4/2005 17:27:35
you can build a box in a trunk if you plan ahead and have it ready. it certainly is not easy....
I went into the shop today that I work part time at when they are busy. It has been about 6-8 months since they called as they finally got a couple of reliable people there. Walked in today to find my project for the mornin, a '99 cobra convertable for rear componant speakers. supercharged, performance lowering, and alot more. It did have the bypass in the consol as I was telling you about, yours should too...
I am curious if you have considered something like the infinity basslink system rather then a sub and amp? I put one in my truck a couple of weeks ago and have been enjoying it since. Single 10" with 250 watts, and a passive radiator and a remote bass knob to tune it from the dash.. Really really installation....
swez on 03/6/2005 15:09:40
Try working with Montego27 on this one as he is now completing his system that is very similar to your project. Might be a bit more challenging in your case, as you have to pull out so many panels to access Mach amps etc.
If you want to, hook up with us on Yahoo IM or Skype for phone quality conversations and we can do a conference type deal as well. All you need, is a mic for your computer and a free account with Skype or Yahoo IM. Skype is an excellent free DL.
www.skype.com
Swez
Victor on 03/6/2005 15:22:31
hehe.. skype should pay us for this kinda marketing...lol
01gtpony on 03/6/2005 23:10:18
Hello Swez
I have got in contact with Montego27. He sent me pictures of his install. He did a nice job on his install. I would like to ask him a few questions and gain some more knowledge. I am going to give him a call on the phone. I cannot type fast enough to have a conversation by typing. Also my spelling is not the best. I sure am glad there is a spell check. Usually I type all my messages in Microsoft Word and then paste them in the reply section.
Thanks for the link to Skype. I will have to check into it.
Ron
01gtpony on 03/6/2005 23:15:55
Looked at Skype tonight. I am off to Radio Shack to get a mic tomarrow.
swez on 03/7/2005 05:09:47
Great! We can cover so much more detail in a short time and bounce many ideas back and forth. Skype is a great program is you have a PIII processor or higher. It does use a lot of computing power and high bandwidth gives excellent audio quality, link swapping, photo and file DL's with a conference call feature.
Montego27 did a great install job and the new results are stunning per his comments. Hopefully, we can get you hooked up and running in short order as well. Tego can lead you to some great deals off the net. I can offer setup and configuration details as well as product selection guidelines and tweaking. It doesn't get any better than that my friend.
Hope to meet you on skype. swezdp is my handle there.
Swez
ttocs on 03/7/2005 11:56:34
there is no need to get at the mach amps, I would probably leave them there. As I said you should be able to bypass them from behind the radio.
swez on 03/7/2005 23:41:16
Good heads up there ttocs. Thanks for the info.
Swez
I am new to this forum and it is nice to see it is not full of brand bashers. I spent some time in other forums and that is what I saw the most. There was not a lot of information being shared, just bashing. I have been looking at a lot of the posts on this forum and had many of my questions answered. Thanks again.
I do have a question. Do you think a newbee could install a complete upgrade by himself, or would he probably need some help? I am interested in SQ instead of SPL. My musical tastes are anything from Megadeth to Patsy Cline. I have a 2001 Mustang GT.
When I talk of an upgrade it would include the following:
New HU
Component set for front.
New speakers for the rear deck.
2 10” or 2 12” subs. (About 300WRMS)
4 channel amp for mid’s and hi’s.
1 mono amp for the subs.
All wiring and mounting accessories.
Should I attempt an upgrade like this with limited knowledge or seek professional help.
Thanks again,
Ron
Replies (32)
uochronos on 03/1/2005 21:08:20
Its a question of do you feel up to the task... You can defiantly do it but it well be a good deal of work... We can walk you threw most of it... the amps are probaly the hardest part running and hiding all the wires...
I can tell you that if you have a install like that done its going to run you quite a bit... installing 1 amp from the local dealer here runs about 100$ give or take... Speakers, Amps, Subs, and HU all together your probaly looking at 400$+ to haev it installed.. thats a etimate mattering alot of things it could be more.
Doing it yourself this big of an upgrade well probaly take at least a full day if its your first install.
If your willing to invest the time i say go for it yourself. I hate to spend money myself on things i could have done.
we can walk you threw any trouble areas you have.
Chronos
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 21:31:00
Te reason that I would like to do it myself is that there are four pro installers in my area. I have gotten prices between $2,800 and $4,200. That seems like a lot of money. I have had the more expensive of the four do an install for me before. It sounded very good in my opinion. It was in a P/U truck. I had them install a new HU in my winter ride last week (1992 Eldorado) and I was not happy with the install. Just don’t like the sound or looks. That’s why I thought I might be able to try it myself.
My Mustang is currently in storage. I live in Erie, PA and got 12 inches of snow in the last two days. You say it would probably take a full day. I figure with my knowledge it will be a couple day project, but I would like to try it. My Mustang is my summer fun car and could sit in the garage for a few days. I am currently doing research right now. In my area there is only one shop that seems to keep the same brand names, Boston Acoustics & JL. Both are very high priced.
I have seen on this forum that many people use many different brands of equipment in the same vehicle. Is there a problem with using one brand for all of your equipment?
Victor on 03/1/2005 22:25:48
Using many brands together or , all the equipments of the same brand, what matters is how you match the specs and install them.
It is said in the inner circles of Car Audio experts that Car Audio is all about 30% product selection and 70% installation. To make the most out of your expensive car audio gear you need to assure the best installation.
That’s why I suggest most of the people to either install themselves (if they know all about installations, or they can get expert to show the right way) or get it done by an authorized professional installer.
Experts on thsi forum can help you decide upon a complete range of products, guide you buy it for a good price , Walk you through the installation and help you tweak the system for optimum performance, all you need to do is spare some time, do some hard work installing and pay for the products and material..hehe
the reason for using different equipments from different brands is that not many manufacturers make good products in all categories, some make nice HU's some make excellent amps, some make SQ subs while some make pounding SPL subs, etc..
Only a very few companies make all of them good, and the ones that do will cost a lot.
If you can properly configure a system, and integrate different equipments from different manufaturers then it is definitely going to sound great.
How about filling up this small form and posting it up so that you can give us a better idea of what exactly your system can be.
1- NAME
2- CONTACT DETAILS- address, phone numbers, cell numbers, email address etc..
3- CAR - Year/ Make / Model / Modifications if any.
4- STOCK SYSTEM - yes / no, if yes then specify the details.
5- ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - Stock / upgraded , specify the details of the battery and the alt in both the cases.
6- AIM - SQ / SQL / SPL.
7- COMPONENTS TO BUY -
8- COMPONENTS TO INSTALL -
9- KIND OF MUSIC YOU LISTEN TO -
10- LIKES/ DIS_LIKES - looks, particular product, particular details etc.
11- BUYING OPTIONS - Retailer / e-tailer, new / refurbished.
12- SELF INSTALL / INSTALLER -
13- COMPETITION - If you are competing in any competition, specify is any.
14- BUDGET - Please specify the lower and the upper limit you are willing to pay, for a product or for a list of products you have specified above.
15- OTHER - Please specify any other specific need if any.
PLEASE BE VERY SPECIFIC AND TRUTHFUL IN FILLING UP THE FORM, REMEMBER THIS IS A FREE ADVICE SITE AND THE EXPERTS WORKING HERE ARE PROVIDING VOLUNTARY SERVICE.
Help us help you.
Comments...??
Victor...
UKinstaller on 03/1/2005 22:46:05
you can do the radio with limited knowledge, and probably the two amps. the only thing that i usually never recommend to beginners is components, unless you've already got components in there and you are just swapping them out. components can be a real pain in the ass, especially if you have to mount the tweeter.
other than that, i say do what you feel comfortable with. save $52 and do the radio yourself.
circuit city prices:
radio: $50
components: $50
speakers: $35
amp/sub: $60
4 channel amp: $75
so you're looking at around $265 in labor, plus parts. you'll need about $100 in parts to do all that if you shop real well. do NOT get your wires from a big store like CC, get them on the internet and save MORE THAN HALF. seriously, CC and best buy jack the bejesus out of their wire prices.
but yeah you can definitely, bare minimum, do the radio.
-UK
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 23:22:48
Hello Victor
Here is the information you requested. I am looking for a SQ system. I have gone to the local pro installers and have listened to some equipment. There is only one installer that seems to have the same brand when I visit. I do not know if the other installers are carrying better brands, or trying to make more money. The installer that has carried the same brands for about 7 years now caries well known brand names. The brands they carry are about $800 for a 6.5 component and $450 for a 10” sub. This is for the brands more expensive line. I was quoted around $4,000 for a complete install. That is above my budget. That is why I would like to try the install myself.
NAME – Ron
2- CONTACT DETAILS - ron0616@adelphia.net
CAR - 2001 Ford Mustang Coupe
STOCK SYSTEM - Yes stock system
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - Stock battery and alt
AIM – SQ. I am 37 years old and do not want to wake up my neighbors at night.
COMPONENTS TO BUY – Haven’t bought anything yet. My car is currently packed away in storage till sometime in April/May. I have just started doing research.
HU (preferably Pioneer MP3 with bass/mid/treble adjustments)
6.5 component front speakers (Maybe kick panels. My car is a 5 speed so I have limited room)
New rear deck speakers. (Open for suggestions)
2 10” or 1 12” sub for trunk. (The mustang has a very small and strange trunk.)
1 four channel amp for hi and mid’s
1 mono amp for subs.
If a five channel would work better please give you’re opinion.
For a 300WRMS sub install would I have to Dynomat my whole car?
8- COMPONENTS TO INSTALL – All. If this is an option for a beginner.
9- KIND OF MUSIC YOU LISTEN TO – Megadeth to Patsy Cline. A little rap/hip-hop, but not much. Are 2 10” subs more practical for this type of music than 12’s.)
10- LIKES/ DIS_LIKES – I like Pioneer head units. Open for suggestions on the other. I am looking for a clean install. I do not need the most elaborate install appearance wise.
11- BUYING OPTIONS - Retailer / e-tailer, new (I have never used E-Bay)
12- SELF INSTALL / INSTALLER – Preferably a self install. I have limited knowledge though. If I run into some problems I may need some professional help.
13- COMPETITION – No competition, just personal satisfaction.
14- BUDGET – Hopefully between $1,500 and $2,000 if this is a reasonable price range.)
Hopefully this info will help.
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 23:30:56
Hello UK
I would like to do the install myself. If I ad a component set to the doors is the difficulty in placing the actual component somewhere? Or is the difficulty locating the tweeter?
If I was to add a kick panel is it still difficult to ad a 6.5 component set to the front. From the information I have gathered kick panels are the preference for SQ. I have a 5 speed so I do not have a lot of foot space. A Mustang is pretty tight for space to begin with.
Thanks
01gtpony on 03/1/2005 23:32:19
Hello Guys
I have 4 hours till I have to get up for work. I will have to continue this tomarrow.
Ron
Victor on 03/1/2005 23:55:21
Hey Ron, Thanks a lot for that info, that will help us help u in a better way.
Seems you are pretty clear about what you want and what not. Thats a good point, I dont think you will need much guidance except a few difficulties while installing.
That budget you go there of 2000$ max is a good one for a nice SQL ( mix of SQ and SPL ) system.
First lets start with budget allocation to each component.This is just allocating the Max possible expenditure, definitely you will be able to find better deals.
HU : 350$
Amps : 250$ for the 4 ch atleast giving >80wrms to each channel.
another 250$ for the Monoblock a 2ohm/1ohm stable digital amp giving 400-600wrms at acceptable loads.
Line driver/EQ (optional) : 200$
Front Components : 300$
Rear Components/coaxials : 150$
Sub/s : 350$ either 2 x 10" or a 400-500wrms 12" single sub.
Wiring : 100$
Box Building : 100$
Sound Deadning : 100$
Time : 1-3 days.
Note: this is the Max amount stated. The actual expenses will definitely be lower. There shall be no need of any electrical upgrade since you are not going to setup a SPL system.
Also sound deadning your vehicle is not only for SPL purposes, or related to RMS output, It is necessary to isolate the inner environment of the car from outside noise interferences, also it reduces the resonance of the metal. It decreases rattling and other noises - a 400wrms+ output should not be underestimated, it can make ur car vibrate good. Also If your aim is for an SQ system then it becomes more necessary for an interference free acoustic environment in your car.
There are a lot more cheaper procuts then dynamat and very effective too.
Well that comes after we agree upon the components and start looking to buy them, we got people here who spend hours shopping on e-bay and other sites, they will definitely help you get a great deal.
Another advice i wud give you, since u are setting up a completely new system and got a decent budget, i would recommend not buying a used or a refurb when you can buy a new product for an equally good price.
thats it for now, after more input from you and others we shall proceed towards the next step.
comments...??
Victor...
UKinstaller on 03/1/2005 23:59:57
big ron,
kick panels are wonderful for imaging and so forth. that would be ideal, and yes you could do the install much easier if you got those. you don't have to mess with the door at all. the hardest part there is mounting them, which is usually just a couple screws.
if you're aiming for SQL, and i know that the mustang trunk is small and funky shaped, i personally would do a single 12'. i put an alpine type-r 12 inch sub in a sealed box in a 2002 mustang about 3 days ago, and it sounded wonderful. it had a 350w RMS amp pushing it. it sounded good, but definitely won't wake the neighbors.
rear deck speakers in that car are cake to do. very easy. limited disassembly required.
-UK
Victor on 03/2/2005 00:11:38
hehe.. And by the way, some members on CK are professionals, some have been or at present are in the business of Car audio, some are great installers, some have had the experience of a lifetime in Car audio, some are great online buyers, some are self taught critics, some are "JUST" critics-hehe...
So u got a good mix of people here, since u are here i guess you wont need to go anywhere else for Car audio.
The Advice you will get here will be tried and tested quality stuff..
Everyone here is best in his field. Dont worry. Probably the next post you make wud be "I am on CK, I DONT need Professionals Help..??"
hehe..
Wish you best luck .
Victor...
UKinstaller on 03/2/2005 00:39:00
well said.
-UK
swez on 03/2/2005 05:24:48
Ron,
Name is Swez... we have a fine group of talent here. You came to a beginner's friendly site. We are a team. Some are Pro installers, great shoppers for the best deals, system design and configuration options and how to do it. In short, our collective talants will meet your needs, if your handy and creative with tools and mechanicals.
As for brands... there are many great choices available at very good prices off e-tail sites we can share with you. Buy the best speakers you can afford as these are the soul of any great sound system. Some of the better ones we recomemend are:
CDT, Alpine Type R or S components, Infinity Kappa series and many more.
As for subs, if you can fit a single 12" woofer in the back, facing the rear bumper, that will work nicely. Do you have ~16" of height, under the rear deck? If yes, a single 12" sub will do the job. Will only need about 1.2 - 1.5 cf of trunk space for a single 12. If you prefer dual 10's, need a minimum height of ~13", but more width for this arrangement. (~26" min. width) Alpine, Infinity, e-Designs and many more can be had for under $150.00 per sub.
Amping: There are many great amps out there too. Can use a 4 channel and mono sub amp or a potent 5 channel will do it all as well. Depending on how much power you want, quality and features on the amps you choose, will dictate the price. Many great brands out there too. Alpine, Infinity, JL, JBL, Phoenix Gold, Rockford Fosgate are all pretty good choices. There are many lesser known brands that can do the job well and cheaper. Depends on your budget.
OK, that's an overview of what we will be showing you as the research process continues. Planning well, is the friend you have. Take your time, weigh out the options and go listen to some products you may wish to purchase. The team will be here to help. Just note we all have different levels of experience with various product lines and personal favorites. Not that we are conflicting in our recommendations. More like going with what we know best.
Welcome to CK,
Swez
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 09:43:05
Hello Everyone
Thanks for the help so far. I have now started somewhat of a shopping list. I have to go compare options for my HU at the local shop before I decide on a particular model. Comparing HU’s on Pioneer’s web page I am leaning toward the Pioneer DEH-P670MP.
If I use a 6.5 component set for my front. What is the recommended setup for the rear deck? I would like an opinion on a two-way compared to dedicated midbass.
Is the a big difference between dash kits. Some of the name I have heard include Metra, Best Kits and Scosche?
Ron
ttocs on 03/2/2005 11:17:26
I am a big mustang fan but not totally familiar with the '01's interior. After working on many the hardest parts are getting the doors off(takes a little patients), and getting the rear speakers out. All the trim panels from the doors back has to come out.
More then likely it has a premium JBL system that you will need to bypass to get a descent sound of of. There was an easy way on prior models and hopefully on yours as well....
As for dash kits the only one that I would recommend staying away from is AI-american international. Them make some descent kits but they also make a universal kit that is more like a puzzle...
Rear speakers are up to you, depends on how much rear fill you want.
UKinstaller on 03/2/2005 13:52:54
i would go with the metra kit myself. i think for an 01 mustang it comes with a pocket. how big is your factory radio??
-UK
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 19:18:29
Hello Everyone
Once again I cannot thank everyone enough for their input.
Hello Swez
Thanks for the information on the ~dimensions of the sub box. There is about 16” from the trunk floor to a plastic cover underneath the rear speakers.I cannot measure right now cause my car is in storage, but I am saving all of this informatin to use at a later time. This cover can be removed. I believe I gain a little more room. If I go with a 12” sub I believe I could always angle the front edge. That would lower the height of the enclosure I believe. If anyone thinks an angled enclosure is a bad idea please let me know?
Here are the subs that I may choose for my setup. Alpine has been recommended as a good sub for sound quality.
2 Alpine SWR-1042D 10" Type-R Series Subwoofer (4ohm + 4ohm) 500WRMS or
1 Alpine SWR-1242D 12" Type-R Series Subwoofer (4ohm + 4ohm) 500WRMS
As far as an amp I am still searching. I have not been able to locate a 5-channel amp that would be able to put out enough power. I think I may need 2 separate amps. 1 for mid’s / high’s and a mono amp for the subs. Still researching RMS power and voltage ratings.
Ron
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 19:19:04
Hello ttocs
The Mustang interior removal was something I was worried about. I came across a web page that explains my Mach460 sound system in good detail.
www.flemworld.com
Hopefully if I am patient the removal process should go smoothly. I understand I may have to replace a few clips here and there.
Thanks for the information on what mounting kit to avoid.
Ron
01gtpony on 03/2/2005 19:19:32
Hello UK
I looked at the Metra kit as a replacement, and it would have the pocket. I have the typical OEM deck. Approximatly 8” x 5”, Double-DIN Size
Sorry if my size guestimate is a little off. I am an armature.
Ron
ttocs on 03/3/2005 08:42:40
that cover in the back has the amps for the mach system as well as covers the 6.5" free-air sub.
Three used to be a hrns behind the radio that was a direct hrns to the speakers. all you had to do was unplug them and wire them in. It looked like the standard ford speaker hrns.
Also remember the trunk opening is VERY small. I built a box for a single ID 12" in my buddiy's '97 and was suprised when it almost didn't fit.....
swez on 03/3/2005 12:04:52
Hi Ron,
Based on ttocs comments of a tight fit for a 12" sub enclosure, may be best to run a pair of 10's back there. I use 2x10's and am well pleased with the performance.
A sub I can definitely suggest, would be:
1. Alpine SWR-1021D (2+2) DVC model
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=500SWR1021&search=alpine&wmsf=1
2. Alpine SWS-1022D (2+2) DVC also
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=67600&I=500SWS1022&search=alpine&wmsf=1
A little web searching via google, will net some very good prices on either model.
===================================================
Sub amp: Here, we don't have to go too large on the sub amp to obtain adequate SPL. A Class D or T mono amp, 2 ohms stable and power between 300-600 Wrms is plenty. The larger the sub amp, the more current it will draw. Since you will be using a pretty potent 4 channel as well, need to mind the current draw of both amps to avoid ALT/BAT upgrades. (which can get pricey) Here again, can suggest Alpine.
1. Alpine MRP-M350 40A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=130&I=500MRPM350&search=alpine&wmsf=1
2. Alpine MRD-M501 60A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=130&I=500MRDM501&search=alpine&wmsf=1
Either amp will do a good job for your subs. If you want to shave some costs out of this part of the project, use the Type S subs. They are similar to the Type R, but less power handling. Why pay for 500 watt subs, if you don't need that much HP?
===================================================
As a possible 4 channel power plant again, Alpine has a fine product lineup:
1. Alpine MRV-F345 (75W x 4) 60A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=500MRVF345&search=alpine&wmsf=1
2. Alpine MRV-F340 (55W x 4) 30A max draw
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-HOyRlaBzWf3/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=500MRVF340&search=alpine&wmsf=1
===================================================
Have a look at the links and chew it over a bit before you make a choice. Just remember, that potent 4 channel amp you desire for Comps and rear speakers will use 30-60A of current at full output.
Depending on the sub amp used, looking at the sub amps noted, add 40-60A more in max power consumption. These are max current draw scenarios. At average (reasonably loud) listening levels, figure about 60% of max power is what you will be pulling here.
Do you know the ALT/BAT output specs on this Mustang?
Enough info for now... have a look and give us some additional feedback. Then we can proceed.
Swez
01gtpony on 03/3/2005 19:32:05
Hello ttocs
You mentioned you built a box for you buddy’s 97 mustang and it barely fit. I had built a mock-up box for a pair of 10’s on time. I do not recall what the exact dimensions were, but it would not fit. I resized the box to be approximately 27”L x 16”H x 11”D. The opening behind the rear seat is about 11.5”H. I had a difficult time getting my mock-up into the trunk.
Can you pre fabricate a box and assemble it in the trunk? Or does that make it more difficult?
Ron
01gtpony on 03/3/2005 20:43:38
Hello Swez
Thanks for the links and the information for checking prices.
I checked out the links for the Alpine SWR-1021D (2+2) DVC and the Alpine SWS-1022D (2+2) DVC. I am still pretty new at this and do not now what effect the slight differences in specs would make. I have noticed a few people said the Type R subs were good for accurate bass. Would someone be able to tell the difference by listening to the two of them in a sealed enclosure?
The two subs listed above are 300WRMS. The Alpine SWR-1042D (4ohm + 4ohm) is 500WRMS.
Is 500WRMS overkill for a system that you just want to sound nice when you are just driving around? Also is the 500WRMS where you start to worry about current draw?
The Alpine SWR-1021D (2+2) is 300WRMS at 2 ohms. The Alpine MRD-M501 puts out 550 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms. Is that two much for the sub?
An a few post you have recommended the CDT component sets. Also you have recommended Alpine. The CDT HD62s run about $400.00 The Alpine SPS-171A component is about $180.00. In you’re opinion is it worth it to spend the extra $220.00? Both options are open to me. I only get one chance to do this right.
Ron
montego_27 on 03/3/2005 23:11:27
Pony, I have just upgraded my entire system w/ pretty much everything your looking at.Alpine sub amp,Alpine 1021-SWR subs,CDT components,4-channel amp etc..I speak w/ Swez,Victor and Chronos almost every day and all were involved w/ the set-up.E-mail me directly if you'd like ogetnom27@yahoo.com and I'll fill you in on the details as far as best price,who to buy from and who not to,performance of the system etc.... I'm 44 and pretty much also have the same listening taste in music. If you have yahoo IM my name on that is ogetnom27 you can reach me there too.
swez on 03/4/2005 08:08:41
A 500 Wrms amp would be too strong for a single Type S sub. If you elected to use only one sub and the larger Alpine amp, use the Type R version. Or, use the smaller sub amp with a single type S. Either way, will need the 4+4 DVC to get the noted 2 ohms.
If using dual 10's, would be fine to run a pair of Type S subs noted earlier. This pair can be used with either amp. Here, the 2+2 coils are needed to reach a net 2 ohm load.
FYI: Bass output SPL will be about 120 dB with 300 Wrms. If you went to the 550 Wrms amp, add +3 dB. That 120 dB of SPL is a very general number. But, close enough for basic references.
On CDT's, can get the Classic series for $150.00 a pair off Zeb. These are nice and no need to spend too much more than that for high quality Comps.
http://www.thezeb.com/p-CDT-Audio-CL-61A-6-1-2-inch-Component-System-101083.htm
Also, may I suggest shopping for the amps first. Once you have ordered the amps you desire, next will be subs and speakers that match amp power and load ratings.
Finally, if you wish to shave even more costs on the project and still get quality products, hook up with Montego27 for e-bay searches. He's a Master Cheapskate and can find you some excellent deals on preferred products noted so far. We are both on Yahoo IM regularly. Can talk you through many issues, questions and solutions in short order via IM.
My IM at yahoo is: swezdp
Best if you have a microphone on hand, so voice chats are possible. Information exchange is rapid that way and more details can be discused with little typing and waiting for replies.
Swez
ttocs on 03/4/2005 17:27:35
you can build a box in a trunk if you plan ahead and have it ready. it certainly is not easy....
I went into the shop today that I work part time at when they are busy. It has been about 6-8 months since they called as they finally got a couple of reliable people there. Walked in today to find my project for the mornin, a '99 cobra convertable for rear componant speakers. supercharged, performance lowering, and alot more. It did have the bypass in the consol as I was telling you about, yours should too...
I am curious if you have considered something like the infinity basslink system rather then a sub and amp? I put one in my truck a couple of weeks ago and have been enjoying it since. Single 10" with 250 watts, and a passive radiator and a remote bass knob to tune it from the dash.. Really really installation....
swez on 03/6/2005 15:09:40
Try working with Montego27 on this one as he is now completing his system that is very similar to your project. Might be a bit more challenging in your case, as you have to pull out so many panels to access Mach amps etc.
If you want to, hook up with us on Yahoo IM or Skype for phone quality conversations and we can do a conference type deal as well. All you need, is a mic for your computer and a free account with Skype or Yahoo IM. Skype is an excellent free DL.
www.skype.com
Swez
Victor on 03/6/2005 15:22:31
hehe.. skype should pay us for this kinda marketing...lol
01gtpony on 03/6/2005 23:10:18
Hello Swez
I have got in contact with Montego27. He sent me pictures of his install. He did a nice job on his install. I would like to ask him a few questions and gain some more knowledge. I am going to give him a call on the phone. I cannot type fast enough to have a conversation by typing. Also my spelling is not the best. I sure am glad there is a spell check. Usually I type all my messages in Microsoft Word and then paste them in the reply section.
Thanks for the link to Skype. I will have to check into it.
Ron
01gtpony on 03/6/2005 23:15:55
Looked at Skype tonight. I am off to Radio Shack to get a mic tomarrow.
swez on 03/7/2005 05:09:47
Great! We can cover so much more detail in a short time and bounce many ideas back and forth. Skype is a great program is you have a PIII processor or higher. It does use a lot of computing power and high bandwidth gives excellent audio quality, link swapping, photo and file DL's with a conference call feature.
Montego27 did a great install job and the new results are stunning per his comments. Hopefully, we can get you hooked up and running in short order as well. Tego can lead you to some great deals off the net. I can offer setup and configuration details as well as product selection guidelines and tweaking. It doesn't get any better than that my friend.
Hope to meet you on skype. swezdp is my handle there.
Swez
ttocs on 03/7/2005 11:56:34
there is no need to get at the mach amps, I would probably leave them there. As I said you should be able to bypass them from behind the radio.
swez on 03/7/2005 23:41:16
Good heads up there ttocs. Thanks for the info.
Swez
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