Ok, right now in my truck I have accompanied a Phoenix Gold Octane-R 8.0:1 amplifier, and have it bridged running to two Phoenix Gold Tantrum-X 600 watt max, 300 watt RMS subwoofers. I have the two subs in Q-Logic truck boxes. I am planning on building a custom box to fit three subs behind my seat, and I am going to add another Phoenix Gold sub. I was wondering if it would be better to add another one of the type of subs I already have and run it off of the same amp, or if I should get a Phoenix Gold Octane-R 2.0:1 and run it to a Tantrum-X sub of the same size I already have, or run it to a Octane-R sub. I would still get another 600 watt max and 300 watt RMS sub, because I could run one bridged set and one regular channel set of wires to the new sub for the max I could get, and not really worry about blowing the sub. Also, I was wondering if you could tell me maybe how many decimals I am pushing now, and how many decimals I will gain, if really any. Thanks for any help you can give, it will be highly appreciated.
Replies (17)
uochronos on 02/21/2005 21:31:53
ok lets say 1 sub hits you 120decibals adding another of the same subs and you only gain 3Db not a huge gain at these levels.
if your going to upgrade i suggest getting one more power full sub and running it to that amp... if you can fit a single brahma, alpine type x, or one of the other power full subs in this class. one of them running off that amp could give you a ton of sound compared to what you have now.
more subs isnt always better.. if your not happy with the 2 you have adding 1 more same or similar one wont get you loud enugh either.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/21/2005 22:48:42
Are you suggesting to get rid of both subs I have now and just using one by itself?, or adding it to the two I have now with the same amp pushing all three? I am also not really interested in paying that much for just one sub, even though it might be my best choice, at this point and time I don't have that much to spend. Also if I have like a Phoenix Gold setup, and a MTX setup (amp and sub), will the two different setup's not hit at different times?
uochronos on 02/21/2005 23:09:18
what exactly are you looking for? deaper bass? louder bass?
because honestly adding a third sub isnt going tog et it much louder and not any deeper hitting.
tell us what your price range is and we can get you the best products listed in that range..
if you just want it deeper and a little louder instead of adding another sub which well have little impact just build a well designed ported box for the current 2
if with those 2 subs you cant get ti as loud or deep as you want then going for a single better sub is a better idea then adding more subs.
also when adding subs they all have to be the same make and model cant mix and match or you get cancelation and other problems it well make things worse not better.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/21/2005 23:27:36
I would just like to have straight-up more bass, not really deaper, just more of what I already have. I guess around 200$ would be best, I know that's not a whole lot, but it could gain a little and I could cover it. And for the cancelation problems, that is why I was going to add all Phoenix Gold. On the box making, my box building is pretty good (built others with friend to sell), but i just don't know if i'd need to go bigger, or smaller, or exactly what. Now back to the first post, do you think it would be a bad idea to go and add a whole new amp to go with a third sub, or will this not really have any affect on loudness?
uochronos on 02/22/2005 00:13:42
adding another sub is going to give you 3db more volume at high volume thats indestinguishal...
i say build a better box for the oens you have, if you build a ported box to recomended specs you well get more bass out of what you already have for only like 30$ in material...
the next option is to get a single better sub and put it in a large box ported and you well be happy.
either waqy we can help you out. i think with a single 12 or 15 inch woofer in a larger box and with the amp you have you could get alot mroe bass. and with a properly designed ported box for the subs you already have you can get quite a bit more bass out of them with just a new box.. after all the sub you choose is only about 20% of how good it sounds enclosure and install has alot more to do with it.
i honestly dont think though adding another sub and amp well make you happy if anything the boxes get smaller then which is less bass and then the other sub is adding very litle volume i think it would cost way more then its worth and not get near the improvment you seem to want.
Chronos
Victor on 02/22/2005 01:07:26
Yes I agree with Chronos, adding another sub to the set up will not gain you anymore than 3db , also the less components used in a car audio system is better , because the more equipment you add the more distortion is created, Hence I also agree with chronos on using a single sub.
Also If you make a ported enclosure or even TL enclosures, for the subs u already hae you can gain the 3 db without adding another sub and amp.
If you like boomy sound and are not much bent on SQ then i would suggest you build Bandpass enclosures or horn loaded enclosures, these can give u a gain upto +10db subjective to the cabin gain of your car.
Sound deadening your car will also help in avoiding the loss of sound and inturn make u feel the system sound louder.
There are some ways you can gain the SPL you want without spending much on the sub and the amp.
But if you do want to spend the money u have then I would suggest going for a bigger SUB with that money just as chronos suggested.
comments...??
Victor...
HuntinPurser on 02/22/2005 23:16:20
Sorry it took me so long to respond, Tried twice this morning but I was screwing up with something so neither posted, but anyway back to talking subs. Could you refer me to a site or give me the specs on which to build my box. I kinda have a problem with making a bandpass or something as big, because remeber, I trying to fit it behind a 88 Toyota pickup truck seat (made some customizations to the back of the seat). I can go with 8" to 9" depth wise at the bottom, 5" depth wise at the top, around 46" to 47" long, and around 15" tall. So with these mesurements, could you give me an idea how to make the ported box that would give me the loudest effect, and what exactly does the ports do to the "sound" (specifications if possible). I don't really care about the "lowness" of the bass sounds, I just want it louder (which I guess I will always want). Also, do you'll really think it would be so much better to just get one single "good" 12" sub and put it into a custom ported box? If so, I would like for you to try to explain how this works, since I'm thinking I should be able to get more out with two. Done this kinda fast so I might have to tack another post or so onto it, but once again, Thanks.
HuntinPurser on 02/22/2005 23:23:35
Just thought of something else, could you tell me or point me to a site that tells me how to calculate the air space inside the box like the professionals do it, I mean I could probably work something out, but I'd like to know if I'm doing it right. Also, is more airspace always better? b/c I have found out that on different sites, they give different recemendations on how much airspace the sub sounds best with and needs, and (sorry) how do you know this. Just starting out and kinda curious about it all. Thanks
uochronos on 02/22/2005 23:26:07
ok sounds liek compared to some trucks you have a bit of room to work with..
to give you specs on a box we need to know exact model of sub your running and we can look it up.
as for would it be better to get one good sub yes it would... lets say the current subs you have now hit 120decibals 1 single good sub coul hit 140decibals... you would need to add 7 more of your current subs and amps to get 140decibals... see how a higher excursion and power handling sub with better parts can equal liek 7 ot 8 of a lower end sub..
thats just a comparison to how many of your current subs you would need to equal one really good sub...
PG makes some decent stuff but not many except there real high end are intended for volume there mainly midraneg subs nothing too special but a good sub still... if your not happy with them then switching to a single High end sub is the way to get the result you seem to want.
As for ports they alow the sub to work more efficiently and alow you to ned a 2-4db boost at the tuning frequencies.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/23/2005 00:11:06
I have a Phoenix Gold Octane-R Series 8.0:1 amp, and two TX 10d Phoenix Gold Tantrum-X 10" subs
One site says this for my amp:
Key Features:
» 300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
» 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
» mono output
» variable low-pass filter (30-300 Hz at 18 dB/octave)
» variable Twin "T" bass EQ boost (0-15 dB boost at 45 Hz)
» subsonic filter
» blue LED logo illumination and optional blue neon attachments
» preamp inputs
» preamp outputs
» requires 4-gauge power and ground leads
» two 40-amp fuses
Product Description:
* High efficiency class "D" monoblock amplifier
* Black with aluminum insert and blue illuminated carbon fiber badge and blue LED backlit PG logo
* Adjustable input sensitivity control
* 18dB Low pass variable crossover: 30Hz-300Hz
* 18dB Subsonic filter: 20Hz-55Hz
* Twin "T" Bass EQ Circuitry -- Adjustable 0 – 15 dB @ 45Hz bass boost
* Muting circuitry for soft turn-on and turn-off
* Advanced overload and thermal protection circuitry
* Silver high-current power and speakers terminals
* Silver RCA level inputs
* Auxiliary RCA output
* Optional LPL Low Pass Level remote control
* Optional RMD port (Remote Monitoring Display)
And for my subs:
- 10: 10 inch 4 ohm subwoofer
- 10d: 10 inch 8/2 ohm subwoofer
- Sensitivity: 89dB (1W/1M)
- 300/600W (RMS/PEAK)
- Injection molded grained polypropylene cone
- Injection molded dust cap with blue LED
- Large roll butyl rubber surround
- Cast aluminum basket
- Paladuim plated 5-way binding posts
- Injection molded rubber motor housing
There is what I can find for both my amp and subs, and what kind of 12" "good" sub am I looking at? how much money? and would I need to get another amp also?
uochronos on 02/23/2005 00:35:56
no that amp has plenty of power you just need a more efficient sub with more xmax...
how about you tell me how much money you want to spend hehe... subs range from 100$-1000$... Adire Shiva is a solid sub gets loud and stays clean 125$ thats about bottom end of good subs a fine sub wont get insanly loud but can hit arouns 120-125db, one step up from that would be something say like a Elemental designs Ov2 series sub going to be able to squeeze about 125-135db out of it well run you about 195$, then there is the brahma and XXX they well net you 135-140db or so but well run you more around 400$.... then there are insanly priced subs liek JL W7 and others that run 600-1200$
your current amp should be able to run most of those...
those arent all the subs but example from each price range.
As for you current set up all fine gear. i think the biggest thing holding you back is the box they are in. If this where me i would buy 30$ in supplies and build them a new box if your still not satisfied then but a better sub if you are satisfied you saved the moneyn for a new sub either way you win.
ok as for a better box for them according to PG's web site they recomend a .85 cubic foot box with a port 3" diameter and 12" long... that means after the ports displacment the box needs to be .85 cubic feet, that well net you the best Volume from the sub according to there site.
we well need to find out what that would make the box tuned to adn get you a pair of SS filters to block sound below port tuning those only run you less then 20$ so not much spent there either.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/23/2005 16:04:16
Ok, I guess I'll just go with building a box at this point in time. Now I need the specs on the box, and if you could, please give me a website address of to which has a pic that you are saying my box needs to look like. Will I need to port it by holes? or will I need to a "divider" like port in there? Well I guess I just need you to explain in pretty plain terms how my box needs to be, and like I said, I've built some but they were totally sealed and not ported.
uochronos on 02/23/2005 16:15:46
ok the box well have to be built to fit behind your seats so its shap e is pretty much set by that. you well have to measure and get the amin shape of it. now you would need a round tub port 3" in diameter and 12" long one for each sub. then the subs well need to be in seperate chambers that each has one port into it. inside the box between the end of the port and the wall there needs to be at least 2 inches minimum.
the box needs to be .85 internal for each sub after the volume to port takes up.
i cant show you what your box needs to look like because its a custom shape to fit behind your seats you well have to fabricate it to fit. just follow the guidklines i gave you.
You could buy ports from a place like a local audio shop or partexpress.com or use PVC pipe from a hard ware store as long as the pieces are 12" long and 3" internal diameter
got it? if you need any more info just ask.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/23/2005 21:26:08
So I will have to put the port in the top, and I should be able to get it to be 15" tall, so that will give me 3" inbetween the end of the tube and the bottom of the box. Does it matter which side of the box for me to put the port on? or can I put it to either side? I know I will divide it, of course, and I calculated some today, and I'm pretty sure that I'll be able to get 1 cub. ft. of airspace pretty easy, so will I need to try to make it exactly .85? or will it hurt to ga a little over?
uochronos on 02/24/2005 02:33:10
well if you make the box 1cubic foot per sub then the sub takes up a little bit of space and then the port takes up some of that space i would say after port and sub dispalcement that you well be almost right at .85
get it?
anyway the box well eb divided into 2 chambers one for each sub and each chamger well need a port wont mater what side the port is on as long asw it has a minimum of 2" of space behind it and you said you had about 3 so your good.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/26/2005 00:05:21
So do I need to make sure I have 2" away from the end of the port on all sides? like for the back wall? also, how do you know I need it to be 12" long? and one more thing, how would you go about running your wires out of the box if you were me? I might think of something else later, but that's it for now. Thanks a lot.
uochronos on 02/26/2005 02:44:33
ok the port is a tube the end thats open inside the box has to have 2 inches of space directly behind it minimum preferably a bit more. you probaly dont want the tube right next to the wall incase the sub vibrates it a bit dont want it to hit the side of the box:)
as for how do i know it needs to eb 12" long i went to phoenix golds web site and looked up the box size and the port dimensions where listed.
now those port dimensions only work if the box is .85 cubic feet so try to net that as the internal space of the box. also remembher to subtract the port displacment from the volume of the box. you can be way .8-.9 cubic feet and not have an issue.
as for runnign speaker wire out of the box buy a terminal cup just like profesionaly made boxes have they are dirt cheap from 99cents for a cheap one to 10$ for a really good one.. so just go grab yourself 2 of the cheap ones.
Chronos
Replies (17)
uochronos on 02/21/2005 21:31:53
ok lets say 1 sub hits you 120decibals adding another of the same subs and you only gain 3Db not a huge gain at these levels.
if your going to upgrade i suggest getting one more power full sub and running it to that amp... if you can fit a single brahma, alpine type x, or one of the other power full subs in this class. one of them running off that amp could give you a ton of sound compared to what you have now.
more subs isnt always better.. if your not happy with the 2 you have adding 1 more same or similar one wont get you loud enugh either.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/21/2005 22:48:42
Are you suggesting to get rid of both subs I have now and just using one by itself?, or adding it to the two I have now with the same amp pushing all three? I am also not really interested in paying that much for just one sub, even though it might be my best choice, at this point and time I don't have that much to spend. Also if I have like a Phoenix Gold setup, and a MTX setup (amp and sub), will the two different setup's not hit at different times?
uochronos on 02/21/2005 23:09:18
what exactly are you looking for? deaper bass? louder bass?
because honestly adding a third sub isnt going tog et it much louder and not any deeper hitting.
tell us what your price range is and we can get you the best products listed in that range..
if you just want it deeper and a little louder instead of adding another sub which well have little impact just build a well designed ported box for the current 2
if with those 2 subs you cant get ti as loud or deep as you want then going for a single better sub is a better idea then adding more subs.
also when adding subs they all have to be the same make and model cant mix and match or you get cancelation and other problems it well make things worse not better.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/21/2005 23:27:36
I would just like to have straight-up more bass, not really deaper, just more of what I already have. I guess around 200$ would be best, I know that's not a whole lot, but it could gain a little and I could cover it. And for the cancelation problems, that is why I was going to add all Phoenix Gold. On the box making, my box building is pretty good (built others with friend to sell), but i just don't know if i'd need to go bigger, or smaller, or exactly what. Now back to the first post, do you think it would be a bad idea to go and add a whole new amp to go with a third sub, or will this not really have any affect on loudness?
uochronos on 02/22/2005 00:13:42
adding another sub is going to give you 3db more volume at high volume thats indestinguishal...
i say build a better box for the oens you have, if you build a ported box to recomended specs you well get more bass out of what you already have for only like 30$ in material...
the next option is to get a single better sub and put it in a large box ported and you well be happy.
either waqy we can help you out. i think with a single 12 or 15 inch woofer in a larger box and with the amp you have you could get alot mroe bass. and with a properly designed ported box for the subs you already have you can get quite a bit more bass out of them with just a new box.. after all the sub you choose is only about 20% of how good it sounds enclosure and install has alot more to do with it.
i honestly dont think though adding another sub and amp well make you happy if anything the boxes get smaller then which is less bass and then the other sub is adding very litle volume i think it would cost way more then its worth and not get near the improvment you seem to want.
Chronos
Victor on 02/22/2005 01:07:26
Yes I agree with Chronos, adding another sub to the set up will not gain you anymore than 3db , also the less components used in a car audio system is better , because the more equipment you add the more distortion is created, Hence I also agree with chronos on using a single sub.
Also If you make a ported enclosure or even TL enclosures, for the subs u already hae you can gain the 3 db without adding another sub and amp.
If you like boomy sound and are not much bent on SQ then i would suggest you build Bandpass enclosures or horn loaded enclosures, these can give u a gain upto +10db subjective to the cabin gain of your car.
Sound deadening your car will also help in avoiding the loss of sound and inturn make u feel the system sound louder.
There are some ways you can gain the SPL you want without spending much on the sub and the amp.
But if you do want to spend the money u have then I would suggest going for a bigger SUB with that money just as chronos suggested.
comments...??
Victor...
HuntinPurser on 02/22/2005 23:16:20
Sorry it took me so long to respond, Tried twice this morning but I was screwing up with something so neither posted, but anyway back to talking subs. Could you refer me to a site or give me the specs on which to build my box. I kinda have a problem with making a bandpass or something as big, because remeber, I trying to fit it behind a 88 Toyota pickup truck seat (made some customizations to the back of the seat). I can go with 8" to 9" depth wise at the bottom, 5" depth wise at the top, around 46" to 47" long, and around 15" tall. So with these mesurements, could you give me an idea how to make the ported box that would give me the loudest effect, and what exactly does the ports do to the "sound" (specifications if possible). I don't really care about the "lowness" of the bass sounds, I just want it louder (which I guess I will always want). Also, do you'll really think it would be so much better to just get one single "good" 12" sub and put it into a custom ported box? If so, I would like for you to try to explain how this works, since I'm thinking I should be able to get more out with two. Done this kinda fast so I might have to tack another post or so onto it, but once again, Thanks.
HuntinPurser on 02/22/2005 23:23:35
Just thought of something else, could you tell me or point me to a site that tells me how to calculate the air space inside the box like the professionals do it, I mean I could probably work something out, but I'd like to know if I'm doing it right. Also, is more airspace always better? b/c I have found out that on different sites, they give different recemendations on how much airspace the sub sounds best with and needs, and (sorry) how do you know this. Just starting out and kinda curious about it all. Thanks
uochronos on 02/22/2005 23:26:07
ok sounds liek compared to some trucks you have a bit of room to work with..
to give you specs on a box we need to know exact model of sub your running and we can look it up.
as for would it be better to get one good sub yes it would... lets say the current subs you have now hit 120decibals 1 single good sub coul hit 140decibals... you would need to add 7 more of your current subs and amps to get 140decibals... see how a higher excursion and power handling sub with better parts can equal liek 7 ot 8 of a lower end sub..
thats just a comparison to how many of your current subs you would need to equal one really good sub...
PG makes some decent stuff but not many except there real high end are intended for volume there mainly midraneg subs nothing too special but a good sub still... if your not happy with them then switching to a single High end sub is the way to get the result you seem to want.
As for ports they alow the sub to work more efficiently and alow you to ned a 2-4db boost at the tuning frequencies.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/23/2005 00:11:06
I have a Phoenix Gold Octane-R Series 8.0:1 amp, and two TX 10d Phoenix Gold Tantrum-X 10" subs
One site says this for my amp:
Key Features:
» 300 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
» 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
» mono output
» variable low-pass filter (30-300 Hz at 18 dB/octave)
» variable Twin "T" bass EQ boost (0-15 dB boost at 45 Hz)
» subsonic filter
» blue LED logo illumination and optional blue neon attachments
» preamp inputs
» preamp outputs
» requires 4-gauge power and ground leads
» two 40-amp fuses
Product Description:
* High efficiency class "D" monoblock amplifier
* Black with aluminum insert and blue illuminated carbon fiber badge and blue LED backlit PG logo
* Adjustable input sensitivity control
* 18dB Low pass variable crossover: 30Hz-300Hz
* 18dB Subsonic filter: 20Hz-55Hz
* Twin "T" Bass EQ Circuitry -- Adjustable 0 – 15 dB @ 45Hz bass boost
* Muting circuitry for soft turn-on and turn-off
* Advanced overload and thermal protection circuitry
* Silver high-current power and speakers terminals
* Silver RCA level inputs
* Auxiliary RCA output
* Optional LPL Low Pass Level remote control
* Optional RMD port (Remote Monitoring Display)
And for my subs:
- 10: 10 inch 4 ohm subwoofer
- 10d: 10 inch 8/2 ohm subwoofer
- Sensitivity: 89dB (1W/1M)
- 300/600W (RMS/PEAK)
- Injection molded grained polypropylene cone
- Injection molded dust cap with blue LED
- Large roll butyl rubber surround
- Cast aluminum basket
- Paladuim plated 5-way binding posts
- Injection molded rubber motor housing
There is what I can find for both my amp and subs, and what kind of 12" "good" sub am I looking at? how much money? and would I need to get another amp also?
uochronos on 02/23/2005 00:35:56
no that amp has plenty of power you just need a more efficient sub with more xmax...
how about you tell me how much money you want to spend hehe... subs range from 100$-1000$... Adire Shiva is a solid sub gets loud and stays clean 125$ thats about bottom end of good subs a fine sub wont get insanly loud but can hit arouns 120-125db, one step up from that would be something say like a Elemental designs Ov2 series sub going to be able to squeeze about 125-135db out of it well run you about 195$, then there is the brahma and XXX they well net you 135-140db or so but well run you more around 400$.... then there are insanly priced subs liek JL W7 and others that run 600-1200$
your current amp should be able to run most of those...
those arent all the subs but example from each price range.
As for you current set up all fine gear. i think the biggest thing holding you back is the box they are in. If this where me i would buy 30$ in supplies and build them a new box if your still not satisfied then but a better sub if you are satisfied you saved the moneyn for a new sub either way you win.
ok as for a better box for them according to PG's web site they recomend a .85 cubic foot box with a port 3" diameter and 12" long... that means after the ports displacment the box needs to be .85 cubic feet, that well net you the best Volume from the sub according to there site.
we well need to find out what that would make the box tuned to adn get you a pair of SS filters to block sound below port tuning those only run you less then 20$ so not much spent there either.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/23/2005 16:04:16
Ok, I guess I'll just go with building a box at this point in time. Now I need the specs on the box, and if you could, please give me a website address of to which has a pic that you are saying my box needs to look like. Will I need to port it by holes? or will I need to a "divider" like port in there? Well I guess I just need you to explain in pretty plain terms how my box needs to be, and like I said, I've built some but they were totally sealed and not ported.
uochronos on 02/23/2005 16:15:46
ok the box well have to be built to fit behind your seats so its shap e is pretty much set by that. you well have to measure and get the amin shape of it. now you would need a round tub port 3" in diameter and 12" long one for each sub. then the subs well need to be in seperate chambers that each has one port into it. inside the box between the end of the port and the wall there needs to be at least 2 inches minimum.
the box needs to be .85 internal for each sub after the volume to port takes up.
i cant show you what your box needs to look like because its a custom shape to fit behind your seats you well have to fabricate it to fit. just follow the guidklines i gave you.
You could buy ports from a place like a local audio shop or partexpress.com or use PVC pipe from a hard ware store as long as the pieces are 12" long and 3" internal diameter
got it? if you need any more info just ask.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/23/2005 21:26:08
So I will have to put the port in the top, and I should be able to get it to be 15" tall, so that will give me 3" inbetween the end of the tube and the bottom of the box. Does it matter which side of the box for me to put the port on? or can I put it to either side? I know I will divide it, of course, and I calculated some today, and I'm pretty sure that I'll be able to get 1 cub. ft. of airspace pretty easy, so will I need to try to make it exactly .85? or will it hurt to ga a little over?
uochronos on 02/24/2005 02:33:10
well if you make the box 1cubic foot per sub then the sub takes up a little bit of space and then the port takes up some of that space i would say after port and sub dispalcement that you well be almost right at .85
get it?
anyway the box well eb divided into 2 chambers one for each sub and each chamger well need a port wont mater what side the port is on as long asw it has a minimum of 2" of space behind it and you said you had about 3 so your good.
Chronos
HuntinPurser on 02/26/2005 00:05:21
So do I need to make sure I have 2" away from the end of the port on all sides? like for the back wall? also, how do you know I need it to be 12" long? and one more thing, how would you go about running your wires out of the box if you were me? I might think of something else later, but that's it for now. Thanks a lot.
uochronos on 02/26/2005 02:44:33
ok the port is a tube the end thats open inside the box has to have 2 inches of space directly behind it minimum preferably a bit more. you probaly dont want the tube right next to the wall incase the sub vibrates it a bit dont want it to hit the side of the box:)
as for how do i know it needs to eb 12" long i went to phoenix golds web site and looked up the box size and the port dimensions where listed.
now those port dimensions only work if the box is .85 cubic feet so try to net that as the internal space of the box. also remembher to subtract the port displacment from the volume of the box. you can be way .8-.9 cubic feet and not have an issue.
as for runnign speaker wire out of the box buy a terminal cup just like profesionaly made boxes have they are dirt cheap from 99cents for a cheap one to 10$ for a really good one.. so just go grab yourself 2 of the cheap ones.
Chronos
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