Is there any "standard" sealed box size/volume for a particular size of sub? Will the same size box/volume that works for a 12" Bazooka sub also work for a 12" Eclipse sub? Or does each brand require a different/volume size. How can you determine the size/volume for a box if you don't have an install manual, and that info isn't available?
Replies (5)
uochronos on 02/11/2005 19:00:34
size of box maters on the driver...
most companies give a box size recomended.. the box usualy gives the best balance between SPL, deep bass, and clean sound. SPL subs lean towards deep and loud.... SQ subs lean towarads less power and cleaner sound...
really you can go up or down with the box size but you well need to adjust RMS power...
in general yes size box makes a big differnce... usualy you should stay withen .2 of the recommended. some companies give multiple box designs one for SPL one for SQ etc Adire, bahn, alpine, ED, RE, JL, etc all have several differnt box sizes for any given driver.. they usualy adjust the RMS wattage between boxes though... if there is a big enough differnce anyway.
really the design and placement of your enclosure and what car its in is 70%+ of how the sub sounds.
Chronos
MrBrownstone on 02/11/2005 19:25:13
Stay within 10% of the recommended size. If they give you 1-1.5 cu ft.. 1cub is the minimum for full range. 1.5 is the maximum size you should use in order for the woofer to be properly supported (loaded) by the box.
On that example, 0.9 won't kill you, but movement of the speaker will likely be more restricted, and less output the result. 1.65 will likely be a very poor choice for that box, as movement will be too unrestricted, and power handling will decrease, mechanically.
swez on 02/12/2005 09:22:47
Agreed... speaker/sub makers do offer a range of usable enclosure sizes. The smaller side of the spec will allow for more power handling of the sub, but less low end bass. The upper limit of the spec will produce more low end bass, but a slight de-rating in wattage input.
For best over all performance, the middle of the spec is usally a very safe bet. Just make sure to account for the subs' displacement in the box as well. Most off the shelf 12" subs are spec'd for 1.0 - 1.5 cf sealed. There are several subs out there that can do very well in smaller box designs too. (.7 - 1.0 cf) Just make sure you know what the specs on the sub are, before you go for a box.
Swez
gearhead on 02/15/2005 16:00:09
Is Titebond glue sufficient to seal the joints on a box? All edges were routed before assembly, glued, then screwed together. I put screws every 2". The boxes appeared airtight just from the initial assembly. If I lay a bead of glue along a seam from inside the box and position the box so that the glue will "seep" into the joint, then leave it in that position until the glue dries completely, will that be sufficient to seal the box?
cplkittle on 02/15/2005 18:00:25
I use titebond II ( the water resistant type in the blue bottle) and I only use 1.5" staples (the air nailer type) to hold the box together. I have never had any problems with any box leaking or coming apart. I used to use screws religiously until I got in to the retail market where time is money, and found out that it is not all that necessary. I glue every seam, then use a thin bead like caulk on the inside corners if enough dosent squeeze out when they are nailed together. I have built boxes for alpine type X subs, Diamond TDX subs, and a 10W7. as far as I know they are still pounding.
Replies (5)
uochronos on 02/11/2005 19:00:34
size of box maters on the driver...
most companies give a box size recomended.. the box usualy gives the best balance between SPL, deep bass, and clean sound. SPL subs lean towards deep and loud.... SQ subs lean towarads less power and cleaner sound...
really you can go up or down with the box size but you well need to adjust RMS power...
in general yes size box makes a big differnce... usualy you should stay withen .2 of the recommended. some companies give multiple box designs one for SPL one for SQ etc Adire, bahn, alpine, ED, RE, JL, etc all have several differnt box sizes for any given driver.. they usualy adjust the RMS wattage between boxes though... if there is a big enough differnce anyway.
really the design and placement of your enclosure and what car its in is 70%+ of how the sub sounds.
Chronos
MrBrownstone on 02/11/2005 19:25:13
Stay within 10% of the recommended size. If they give you 1-1.5 cu ft.. 1cub is the minimum for full range. 1.5 is the maximum size you should use in order for the woofer to be properly supported (loaded) by the box.
On that example, 0.9 won't kill you, but movement of the speaker will likely be more restricted, and less output the result. 1.65 will likely be a very poor choice for that box, as movement will be too unrestricted, and power handling will decrease, mechanically.
swez on 02/12/2005 09:22:47
Agreed... speaker/sub makers do offer a range of usable enclosure sizes. The smaller side of the spec will allow for more power handling of the sub, but less low end bass. The upper limit of the spec will produce more low end bass, but a slight de-rating in wattage input.
For best over all performance, the middle of the spec is usally a very safe bet. Just make sure to account for the subs' displacement in the box as well. Most off the shelf 12" subs are spec'd for 1.0 - 1.5 cf sealed. There are several subs out there that can do very well in smaller box designs too. (.7 - 1.0 cf) Just make sure you know what the specs on the sub are, before you go for a box.
Swez
gearhead on 02/15/2005 16:00:09
Is Titebond glue sufficient to seal the joints on a box? All edges were routed before assembly, glued, then screwed together. I put screws every 2". The boxes appeared airtight just from the initial assembly. If I lay a bead of glue along a seam from inside the box and position the box so that the glue will "seep" into the joint, then leave it in that position until the glue dries completely, will that be sufficient to seal the box?
cplkittle on 02/15/2005 18:00:25
I use titebond II ( the water resistant type in the blue bottle) and I only use 1.5" staples (the air nailer type) to hold the box together. I have never had any problems with any box leaking or coming apart. I used to use screws religiously until I got in to the retail market where time is money, and found out that it is not all that necessary. I glue every seam, then use a thin bead like caulk on the inside corners if enough dosent squeeze out when they are nailed together. I have built boxes for alpine type X subs, Diamond TDX subs, and a 10W7. as far as I know they are still pounding.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
