What is the proper way to connect tweeters. The tweeters are in the door, so don't worry about that. I just want to know if I should run the wire connecting to the tweeter to the amp in the back, or run it to the front speaker down below and tap into that wire.
Also, about crossovers. Are those just for the tweeters, or can I connect all the speakers to them? They don't fit in the door panel, so I have them in the trunk with the amps.
See, my buddy and I installed the stereo (cd player, component speakers, two amps, and a sub) and everything worked. Then a couple weeks later the stereo all of a sudden shut off. I took it to cartoys and said the way we installed it was very dangerous. There are wires everywhere. All the wires are running throught the middle of the car, and cartoys said specific wires need to be on opposite sides of the car. We have both amps running to the battery, while they say we need to only run one by connecting the two amps to a splitter device.
What I'm trying to do is make the car safer for myself and for the equipment. First thing is I have visable speaker wire from the door to the body of the car where the door and the body conjoin. It's the tweeter wire. That's why I was wondering if I was supposed to connect the tweeter straight the speaker, and tap in there.
Thanks a bunch guys!!
Replies (2)
ttocs on 02/2/2005 12:38:37
depends on the speaker, and how you are setting them up. What are the speakers?
swez on 02/2/2005 16:31:35
Several issues to address here. Will try to break them down into a systematic approach.
Power wire for amps:
When using 2 amps, is best to use one large power wire from BAT + terminal to an inline fuse. This fuse should be under 24" away from BAT. The wire used and the fuse value are based on current draw of the amps connected to same. The easy way, add up the fuses on both amps. (Example: Amp #1 has 2 x 15A fuses; Amp #2 has 2 x 20A fuses. That's 70A max and a #4 gage main wire is needed along with a 60-80A inline fuse)
====================================================
Power Distribution Block:
This is a simple device that splits one large gage wire into 2 or more smaller gage lines. Some come with fuses, others do not. Either is acceptable. In the example above, we want a D-block that has 1 x #4 gage input and 2 or more #8 gage outputs. Each of the amps noted above, are fine with a #8 gage power feed line. FYI: Most D-blocks are fully insulated electrically from from in/out power feeds. They can be mounted anywhere near the amps. However, if there is no isolation barrier on the mounting system, need to mount it on a non-conductive surface.
====================================================
RCA Connections:
The RCA lines from the HU need to be located at least 24" away from power feed lines. This prevents any noise on the power line, getting into your RCA signal feeds.
====================================================
Speaker lines:
The rear speaker lines off amp are pretty much a no brainer. Just a short run from amp to rear channe speakers is all.
The front Comps... are a bit more effort. Especially if a larger crossover is used. The crossovers can be mounted in the trunk, (near the amp) in door panels or under the dash. The key thing here, better crossovers has 2 outputs. One for woofer, other for tweeter. When mounting x-overs in trunk, you have to run 2 wire sets per side. (4 pairs in all) Mark each line with ID tags or a Sharpie pen. (LT,LW; RT,RW) and run them up to dash area and split them at dash to proper locations.
NOTE: It's a good idea to braid each pair of speaker wires. This reduces potential of noise problems. A slow speed drill makes the job fast and easy.
Also, when running speaker lines into the front door speakers, there is a rubber boot (flex conduit) that covers wires from doors to inside door jamb. That's the safest place to run your speaker wires into the doors. If you have them loose between the door jamb, they can be damage, short out and fry crossovers and amp. It may not be an easy job fitting wires in there. (driver's side especially) The other option is to locate the exsisting speaker wires that are in the door and splice into them.
===================================================
Finally, we need to make sure we have solid grounds for all devices in the audio chain. Both amps should be grounded to the same location in the vehicle. Bare metal on floor pan is often the best route to go. Many use a stud mounting nut/bolt/washer to lock in thier grounds. Use crimp style eye connectors and keep the amp gound wires as short as possible. Use the same wire gage as power feeds to each amp.
Also, it is wise to ground aftermarket HU's to floor pan or firewall. Since this is a small wire gage, a simple self-tapping sheet metal screw is fine. A #8 x 1" is adequate here. Again, bare metal connections. You can also coat the grounding hardware with silicone or grease to prevent rusting.
Hope that helps,
Swez
PS Follow these steps and other inputs from ttocs and you will have a top notch, safe install.
Also, about crossovers. Are those just for the tweeters, or can I connect all the speakers to them? They don't fit in the door panel, so I have them in the trunk with the amps.
See, my buddy and I installed the stereo (cd player, component speakers, two amps, and a sub) and everything worked. Then a couple weeks later the stereo all of a sudden shut off. I took it to cartoys and said the way we installed it was very dangerous. There are wires everywhere. All the wires are running throught the middle of the car, and cartoys said specific wires need to be on opposite sides of the car. We have both amps running to the battery, while they say we need to only run one by connecting the two amps to a splitter device.
What I'm trying to do is make the car safer for myself and for the equipment. First thing is I have visable speaker wire from the door to the body of the car where the door and the body conjoin. It's the tweeter wire. That's why I was wondering if I was supposed to connect the tweeter straight the speaker, and tap in there.
Thanks a bunch guys!!
Replies (2)
ttocs on 02/2/2005 12:38:37
depends on the speaker, and how you are setting them up. What are the speakers?
swez on 02/2/2005 16:31:35
Several issues to address here. Will try to break them down into a systematic approach.
Power wire for amps:
When using 2 amps, is best to use one large power wire from BAT + terminal to an inline fuse. This fuse should be under 24" away from BAT. The wire used and the fuse value are based on current draw of the amps connected to same. The easy way, add up the fuses on both amps. (Example: Amp #1 has 2 x 15A fuses; Amp #2 has 2 x 20A fuses. That's 70A max and a #4 gage main wire is needed along with a 60-80A inline fuse)
====================================================
Power Distribution Block:
This is a simple device that splits one large gage wire into 2 or more smaller gage lines. Some come with fuses, others do not. Either is acceptable. In the example above, we want a D-block that has 1 x #4 gage input and 2 or more #8 gage outputs. Each of the amps noted above, are fine with a #8 gage power feed line. FYI: Most D-blocks are fully insulated electrically from from in/out power feeds. They can be mounted anywhere near the amps. However, if there is no isolation barrier on the mounting system, need to mount it on a non-conductive surface.
====================================================
RCA Connections:
The RCA lines from the HU need to be located at least 24" away from power feed lines. This prevents any noise on the power line, getting into your RCA signal feeds.
====================================================
Speaker lines:
The rear speaker lines off amp are pretty much a no brainer. Just a short run from amp to rear channe speakers is all.
The front Comps... are a bit more effort. Especially if a larger crossover is used. The crossovers can be mounted in the trunk, (near the amp) in door panels or under the dash. The key thing here, better crossovers has 2 outputs. One for woofer, other for tweeter. When mounting x-overs in trunk, you have to run 2 wire sets per side. (4 pairs in all) Mark each line with ID tags or a Sharpie pen. (LT,LW; RT,RW) and run them up to dash area and split them at dash to proper locations.
NOTE: It's a good idea to braid each pair of speaker wires. This reduces potential of noise problems. A slow speed drill makes the job fast and easy.
Also, when running speaker lines into the front door speakers, there is a rubber boot (flex conduit) that covers wires from doors to inside door jamb. That's the safest place to run your speaker wires into the doors. If you have them loose between the door jamb, they can be damage, short out and fry crossovers and amp. It may not be an easy job fitting wires in there. (driver's side especially) The other option is to locate the exsisting speaker wires that are in the door and splice into them.
===================================================
Finally, we need to make sure we have solid grounds for all devices in the audio chain. Both amps should be grounded to the same location in the vehicle. Bare metal on floor pan is often the best route to go. Many use a stud mounting nut/bolt/washer to lock in thier grounds. Use crimp style eye connectors and keep the amp gound wires as short as possible. Use the same wire gage as power feeds to each amp.
Also, it is wise to ground aftermarket HU's to floor pan or firewall. Since this is a small wire gage, a simple self-tapping sheet metal screw is fine. A #8 x 1" is adequate here. Again, bare metal connections. You can also coat the grounding hardware with silicone or grease to prevent rusting.
Hope that helps,
Swez
PS Follow these steps and other inputs from ttocs and you will have a top notch, safe install.
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