Gday
I have just bought sound storm 2000watt 4 chennel amp [$200]AUS and it is going to be bridged and be powreing twin pioneer 15" subs my question is do I use the standard 8 guage power cable and a 60 amp fuse of should I be using a bigger calbe and fuse. [I plan to be playing it quiet loud]
Replies (15)
swez on 01/13/2005 11:05:28
That amp will draw a max of 60A's before the fuse blows. A #8 wire is just barely adequate for this amount of current. Depends on the wire length too. If longer than ~12 feet (2.5 meters) would be better to go to a larger gage power feed line of #6 or even #4 wire.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/13/2005 22:37:46
Alrighty sounds good. The cable is going from the battery in the front to the boot[trunk] so i think i will use a #4.
My second problem is im building 2 boxes for my 2 pioneer 15inch subs. How important is it that the box is sealed up and how big should it be. The subs will be running at about 400watt rms and 8 ohm.
uochronos on 01/14/2005 00:10:38
if your running sealed boxes then they need to be sealed.... use wood glue on all joints and then run a bead of silicone caulk around the seems inside it well be sealed up tight... if you go ported then you have to have to port just the right diameter and length to your frequency,,
if you have a sealed box with leaks it well sound very funny... trust me i have had them and it can drive you crazy:)
Chronos
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 00:24:00
Im useing glue that is used to hold woodern boats together so it should be sealed tight i just didnt really see the point of sealing it if air comes out a port anyway.So how do I find out my frequency and what sounds better a ported box of a fully sealed up box with no holes or leques??
ttocs on 01/14/2005 01:17:21
a port is more then just a leak, it is a finely tuned leak. Different port sizes will allow the speaker to play some notes better then others. A badly tuned port will not allow the speaker to play any notes well, and can even add noise to make them sound worse.
You can also build a completly airtight sealed enclosure easier, and get a cleaner sound generally.
You will still want to use screws or brads to add to the strength. how much woodworking experience do you have? Do you have access to a table saw? You can get pre-fab boxes as well if this is out of your experience.
What size pwr wire inputs does the amp have? This may limit your wire size as well.
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 01:32:47
I have medium wood working experience but my old man is an ex carpenter so together it we have plenty of know how. I could get to a table saw but i have just been unsing a jigsaw at home. I think it will be easyer to do a completely sealed box so thats what i will do.
The amp just has the normal sized inputs[about 1cm long]
swez on 01/14/2005 07:06:23
What make/model # are these subs? Some subs are not designed for ported applications. Sealed boxes are easy to build, smaller than ported and product good, tight bass.
Depending on the subs and amp you are running here, we can give you some additional input with more info on subs & amp used. Make and model #'s are most helpful. Especially if they are non-American brands.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 07:13:27
The amp is a soundsorm D500.4[american] it is a 4 cheanel 2000watt max. The subs are 2 pioneer 15" 700wat max.
swez on 01/14/2005 07:40:09
Model # of subs? again...
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 07:45:15
TS-W384C is the model number of each sub
swez on 01/14/2005 12:49:18
As for the enclosure on that sub noted, 2.0 cubic foot/sub. The literature I found, indicates these are 4 ohm, single voice coil subs, 350 Wrms each. They are not recommended for ported enclosures.
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/386
==================================================
That Amp is spec'd at 220 Wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms. The best way to use it is to bridge front channels for 1ST sub, bridge rear channels for 2nd sub.
If only using rear channels for subs, use 1 sub per rear channel. DO NOT BRIDGE THE REAR CHANNELS AND WIRE THE SUBS IN PARALLEL. You can bridge and run subs in series if you wish. That is an 8 ohm load and safe for this amp.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 21:32:55
Well the plan is to bridge the front chennels for 1 sub and the rear chenels for the second sub.
With my sub boxes what kind of insulation do you recomend to go on the inside of the box i was thinking of geting a foam matress and cutting it up and lineing all the inside faces in it.
swez on 01/15/2005 07:58:31
Have tried several different materials for sound dampening. As long as the material is somewhat open-celled and does not break apart over time, it will probably work. Things I have seen or tried:
1. Fiberglass insulation batting (watch the "itchy" factor)
2. Polyfil (stuffing for pillows or inner quilt liner)
3. Foam sponge carpet padding
4. Fiberous carpet padding
5. Anti-wave insert material from an old water bed (poly-fiberous type)
I'm not sure on these options however:
Sponge Bob Square Pants
A pile of old underware (cotton briefs or boxers are best)
Holy socks
Several pairs of worn out sweat pants or sweat shirts
Cardboard fiber egg cartons (Hint: take the eggs out first)
An old blanky
Pardon my oddball humor... but it's winter here and we have this thing called "Cabin Fever". It strikes many northern climate dwellers in the USA and Canada, this time of year. Think I'll just grab some warm clothes, toss in a spud bar and go ice fishing today. It's very easy to catch ice as it does not move very fast at this time of year. I have tons of it in my backyard at the moment. LOL Ice skating anyone?
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/16/2005 03:12:20
cheers swez and all others that have given help throughout my project.
swez on 01/16/2005 03:19:14
Cheers mate! G-day....
Swez
I have just bought sound storm 2000watt 4 chennel amp [$200]AUS and it is going to be bridged and be powreing twin pioneer 15" subs my question is do I use the standard 8 guage power cable and a 60 amp fuse of should I be using a bigger calbe and fuse. [I plan to be playing it quiet loud]
Replies (15)
swez on 01/13/2005 11:05:28
That amp will draw a max of 60A's before the fuse blows. A #8 wire is just barely adequate for this amount of current. Depends on the wire length too. If longer than ~12 feet (2.5 meters) would be better to go to a larger gage power feed line of #6 or even #4 wire.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/13/2005 22:37:46
Alrighty sounds good. The cable is going from the battery in the front to the boot[trunk] so i think i will use a #4.
My second problem is im building 2 boxes for my 2 pioneer 15inch subs. How important is it that the box is sealed up and how big should it be. The subs will be running at about 400watt rms and 8 ohm.
uochronos on 01/14/2005 00:10:38
if your running sealed boxes then they need to be sealed.... use wood glue on all joints and then run a bead of silicone caulk around the seems inside it well be sealed up tight... if you go ported then you have to have to port just the right diameter and length to your frequency,,
if you have a sealed box with leaks it well sound very funny... trust me i have had them and it can drive you crazy:)
Chronos
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 00:24:00
Im useing glue that is used to hold woodern boats together so it should be sealed tight i just didnt really see the point of sealing it if air comes out a port anyway.So how do I find out my frequency and what sounds better a ported box of a fully sealed up box with no holes or leques??
ttocs on 01/14/2005 01:17:21
a port is more then just a leak, it is a finely tuned leak. Different port sizes will allow the speaker to play some notes better then others. A badly tuned port will not allow the speaker to play any notes well, and can even add noise to make them sound worse.
You can also build a completly airtight sealed enclosure easier, and get a cleaner sound generally.
You will still want to use screws or brads to add to the strength. how much woodworking experience do you have? Do you have access to a table saw? You can get pre-fab boxes as well if this is out of your experience.
What size pwr wire inputs does the amp have? This may limit your wire size as well.
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 01:32:47
I have medium wood working experience but my old man is an ex carpenter so together it we have plenty of know how. I could get to a table saw but i have just been unsing a jigsaw at home. I think it will be easyer to do a completely sealed box so thats what i will do.
The amp just has the normal sized inputs[about 1cm long]
swez on 01/14/2005 07:06:23
What make/model # are these subs? Some subs are not designed for ported applications. Sealed boxes are easy to build, smaller than ported and product good, tight bass.
Depending on the subs and amp you are running here, we can give you some additional input with more info on subs & amp used. Make and model #'s are most helpful. Especially if they are non-American brands.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 07:13:27
The amp is a soundsorm D500.4[american] it is a 4 cheanel 2000watt max. The subs are 2 pioneer 15" 700wat max.
swez on 01/14/2005 07:40:09
Model # of subs? again...
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 07:45:15
TS-W384C is the model number of each sub
swez on 01/14/2005 12:49:18
As for the enclosure on that sub noted, 2.0 cubic foot/sub. The literature I found, indicates these are 4 ohm, single voice coil subs, 350 Wrms each. They are not recommended for ported enclosures.
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/386
==================================================
That Amp is spec'd at 220 Wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms. The best way to use it is to bridge front channels for 1ST sub, bridge rear channels for 2nd sub.
If only using rear channels for subs, use 1 sub per rear channel. DO NOT BRIDGE THE REAR CHANNELS AND WIRE THE SUBS IN PARALLEL. You can bridge and run subs in series if you wish. That is an 8 ohm load and safe for this amp.
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/14/2005 21:32:55
Well the plan is to bridge the front chennels for 1 sub and the rear chenels for the second sub.
With my sub boxes what kind of insulation do you recomend to go on the inside of the box i was thinking of geting a foam matress and cutting it up and lineing all the inside faces in it.
swez on 01/15/2005 07:58:31
Have tried several different materials for sound dampening. As long as the material is somewhat open-celled and does not break apart over time, it will probably work. Things I have seen or tried:
1. Fiberglass insulation batting (watch the "itchy" factor)
2. Polyfil (stuffing for pillows or inner quilt liner)
3. Foam sponge carpet padding
4. Fiberous carpet padding
5. Anti-wave insert material from an old water bed (poly-fiberous type)
I'm not sure on these options however:
Sponge Bob Square Pants
A pile of old underware (cotton briefs or boxers are best)
Holy socks
Several pairs of worn out sweat pants or sweat shirts
Cardboard fiber egg cartons (Hint: take the eggs out first)
An old blanky
Pardon my oddball humor... but it's winter here and we have this thing called "Cabin Fever". It strikes many northern climate dwellers in the USA and Canada, this time of year. Think I'll just grab some warm clothes, toss in a spud bar and go ice fishing today. It's very easy to catch ice as it does not move very fast at this time of year. I have tons of it in my backyard at the moment. LOL Ice skating anyone?
Swez
15-11-1988 on 01/16/2005 03:12:20
cheers swez and all others that have given help throughout my project.
swez on 01/16/2005 03:19:14
Cheers mate! G-day....
Swez
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